C & KU LNB

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shanklej

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Apr 26, 2013
228
17
Ocala fl
8-6-2016

My 5 year old plus lnbs.
The gentleman helping me said the lnbs were probably hit by lightening.
He couldn't get any signal quality better than 45 just like I couldn't.
New Linkbox 9000i and new Titanium ASC1.
Fat Air recommended that I get the Titamium c1-pll c-band phase-locked loop
lnbf with wimex filter fta pll lnb.

I can't tell if this is a C & ku lnb. That's what I need.
Where do I go to get something like this??
Please keep any response simply as I am a Big Satellite Dish idiot.
I have attached pictures of the old lnbs.
Thanks for any help.
 

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A signal of 45 is just background noise. It indicates you are hooked up to an LNB. I wouldn't doubt you have a polar-rotor issue. It's not switching back and forth Horizontal and Vertical. You can't get signal because the skew of the polar-rotor is wrong in this case. Bad polar motor? That's the little blue box on the back of your C/Ku co-rotor feed horn.
 
Thank you for responding Magic Static.
I see where I would connect the two wires BUT I have 3 more wires that
this lnb has no connections for?????

Response to Magic Static message about the servo.
If I understand you correctly all I need it to replace the servo.
Where do I get one of those????
Guess I do not need to replace the chaparral C & Ku then?
 
Thank you for responding Magic Static.
I see where I would connect the two wires BUT I have 3 more wires that
this lnb has no connections for?????

Response to Magic Static message about the servo.
If I understand you correctly all I need it to replace the servo.
Where do I get one of those????
Guess I do not need to replace the chaparral C & Ku then?
Since you have the co-rotor off the dish you could "bench test it" and hook it to the ASC1 and see if it functions H & V If it moves 90° back and forth, mark the positions so when you install it on the dish you can orient the co-rotor correctly.
The LNBF that was recommended is a voltage switching one and does not use a rotor control
 
Thanks guys for replying.
Things have got complicated. Seems I have two choices:
1 - buy a new lnb as instructed by Magic Static. No servo needed.

2 - buy a servo for $26 and install it on the old lnbs. I see that this method
recommends a (1000 Uf (micro-farad) 5Volts+) be installed between the
red wire and the red wire going into the house.
I have no idea if the old Chaparral lnbs are any good.
 
The Chaparral feedhorn can provide better performance than a combo C/KU LNBF. The servo allows the skew to be optimized for each satellite and polarity. This is beneficial to reduce interference on problematic transponders.

The capacitor is a fix and is only installed if the user notices the servo stuttering.

Likely the LNBs are still working if the receiver is seeing the amplifier signal. It is rare for a LNB amplifier to be functional, but the down converter to be damaged. Usually lightning/electrical events will disable the LNB signal amplifier.
 
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Before replacing the servo.
I'd first remove the feed and look down the throat and see if the probe moves the required 90 degrees (when selecting between H and V).
If not 90, but it does move, try adjusting the skew for a 90 degree change. If it's not consistent, Or jumps about somewhat, most likely the potentiometer in the servo is worn. Time to replace the servo.
Also just listen to it. If it sounds 'labored" determine if it is the servo or the feed itself.
Check for binding, tightness, on the stud that the servo turns on the feed.
 
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8-6-2016

Please a lesson in bench testing the Chaparral lnbs with the Titanium ASC1.
I have 2 alligator clip wires.
On the back of the ASC1 (per the Manual P6) #7,#8,#9 I think can be used for
the test. #8 to the servo white wire. #9 to the servo red wire.
Is #7 needed??
Then changing the polarity on the face of the ASC1 should move the rotor in
the Chaparral.
If it doesn't move the rotor then I need a new servo.
Thanks for any help.
 
#7 Ground to black wire is needed definitely. It will not work without it.
Then using the front panel buttons or the remote scroll to the polar rotor control and switch from H to V and try adjusting the skew in small increments and observe how the feed horn responds.
 
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8-7-2016
Results from bench test.
1st thing, I disconnected the black & red wires. Was afraid the dish might
hit the ground.
Connected my 60 year old alligator clips. Connected to 7,8,9 on the ASC1.
Got a click about 1 per second. Sounds like it's coming from the C band lnb
or the servo. The rotor never moved........
Fearing there might be a short in the old alligator clips I replaced them with
other wires. Now the clicks were erratic and a hum. Sound coming from
either the C band lnb or the servo. I did move the ASC1 from horizontal to
vertical with no effect.
Can I take the cover off the C band lnb and look to see if there is anything
burnt from lightening?? Sign.....
 
The servo motor moves a shaft under it. Remove the 4 screws holding the servo on and remove the servo. Check and see if you can move the shaft easily with your fingers. If the shaft is free, buy a new servo motor :) I would not open the C-Band LNB. You wouldn't be able to repair it anyway.
 
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With the servo removed you can grab the probe in the feedhorn throat and move it back and forth. Make sre it moves all the way to the servo motor end. That shaft is plastic and I have one where the plastic is broken. The motor moves but the probe doesn't .
 
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8-7-2016 3:30 est
In removing the servo, pieces of plastic at the bottom started falling
out. Two screws were very difficult to get out. I had to take pliers
and turn and pull to get them out. Makes one wonder how a new servo
will stay put in the old LNB!
The blank plastic in the servo is very hard to turn. Not easy like you said.
Anyway taking off the servo damaged the sides and the plastic at the bottom
is destroyed.
I still am not sure the rest of the LNB is ok. I hate to spend money on a new
servo and then find out the LNBs still won't give a decent signal.
That's why I wanted to remove the cover on the C band LNB, just to see if
anything was burnt. Correct I wouldn't know how to fix it anyway, but
would know that I need new LNBs.
I pulled the servo out of it's box and nothing looked burnt.
So now I need the benefit of your judgment on how to proceed Please.
Jack Shankle
 
You don't need a functioning servo to test the LNBs. Just turn the probe by hand (or pliers) on the backside where the servo motor was attached.

You need the feed on the dish to test the LNBs. Turn the probe by hand to vertical (parallel to the dish's elevation axis) or horizontal (90 degrees to the dish's elevation axis) and see if you can receive something.
 
I've made a new decision. Why spend $25+ on a new servo with screws
that might not work on the Chaparral lNBs. I think I would be better off getting
one of Titaniums C & Ku LNBs.
 
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This is to Titanium,
8-8-2016 4:45 est
I tried calling your office to talk about buying an LNB.
Was not able to get through. I need more details about
which one will fit on my dish etc.
I am at a loss how to proceed.
Thank you,
 
If you want the C/KU combo, order the CK1S. You will need to use a switch (just like you currently do) to select between the C and KU band outputs. If your current switch is working, you do not need to buy anything but the CK1S.

I'm here at the office getting Monday orders shipped and received several calls today (just checked the lines, they're ok). Calling 530-652-4405?
 
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