Caller ID & grounding Blocks

stuhuff

Member
Original poster
Jan 9, 2005
14
0
OK, I have a 921 and the caller id function has not worked for the last 6 months. This is after it worked flawlessly for the first 6 months I had the unit. I called Dish tech support and the rep basically told me that the caller id function is "solid" and that he knew of no bugs related to the caller id. I know that is BS since I can find numerous references to caller id issues with the 921...

One thing he did tell me is that the grounding is critical to the caller ID functioning properly and for me to check my grounding. So, I went up in the attic to check the grounding block from the satellite and couldn't find one. Thought it must be outside on the roof; got my ladder out and climbed up on the roof to the dish, and lo and behold there is NO grounding block attached at all! I have a Dish pro with two lines going in through the roof to a DPP44 switch, then straight to my receivers...

Shouldn't there be a grounding block in all dish setups or am I missing something? And, if there should be a grounding block - would it really make a difference in whether or not the caller ID function was working? Doesn't the caller ID information come in from the phone line and therefore would not be impacted by the presence or absence of a grounding block?

Comments, and thanks!
 
I have a 942 and had trouble getting the output from the second tuner to the second TV. The cable connecting the two went through a grounding block. After reading the troubleshooting section of the 942 manual, I went down and reversed the input and output through the grounding block and all was fine. I'm still not sure why.
 
To Stuhuff....yes, you really do need to have your lines grounded. Even if it's just a ground line ran from the DPP44 switch to a groundlug. May not be quite kosher to some of the other techs on here, but according to the install paperwork that goes with the switch, it's sufficient.

As to your caller ID. Yeah...that's a different issue. I've heard of 921's giving some grief on that. For me it's no big deal having caller ID on my television screen, but I can understand how it would be for others.
 
webbydude said:
To Stuhuff....yes, you really do need to have your lines grounded. Even if it's just a ground line ran from the DPP44 switch to a groundlug. May not be quite kosher to some of the other techs on here, but according to the install paperwork that goes with the switch, it's sufficient.

The DPP44 is not acceptable as a replacement for a ground. The manual was changed shortly after it was released. Here is the email I got from dish on the issue:
edited to remove name and contact info.


A multi-dish switch can NOT take the place of a ground block. The following instructions apply to a ground block only.

You may want to install the ground block onto the side of the building, or on some other sturdy structure near the satellite dish. Make sure that the location is stable, and that you fasten the ground block tightly to the surface. As stated in Article 820-40 of the National Electrical Code (NEC), locate the ground block as close as possible to the power entry ground.

Mount the ground block so that its connections are horizontal. This helps keep moisture from leaking into the block. Using the shortest path possible, run the coaxial cable(s) from the LNBF(s) to the input(s) on the ground block.

Put a drip loop in each cable to allow moisture to drip from the cable before it runs into the ground block.

Run the ground wire to the power entry ground of the building in accordance with the National Electrical Code (NEC) and all local electrical codes.
A ground wire must always be a single piece of wire. Never splice two wires together for a ground. Corrosion and weathering can lead to a poor connection at the splice, making the ground ineffective and dangerous. If you cut the ground wire too short, replace it with a single wire cut to the correct length.



Thank you,


Executive Office of Dish Network

Direct:xxxxx

Email:xxxxx@echostar.
com
 
So where do you put the ground if you have a Dish 500 and another Dish for 61.5? (three inputs to the DPP44). I have 3 input lines, but only spots for 2 on the ground.
 
Buy another ground block Dishstore has them and that is where I got mine for my 61.5 install. They even have a quad block now so you can replace your existin one.

http://www.dishstore.net/index.php?cPath=51

Just for reference, SimpleSimon and I had a nice long discussion on this a while back and that is when we found out that the manuals had changed. His manual had it saying it was OK for the ground and mine did not. I emailed dish to see what the story was and the post a couple back/up was the response I got back. I actually received two responses on it, but I only saved one apparently.
 
Last edited:
I don't think your system not being grounded has anything to do with your caller id. I think its just another set of CSR bull. It is a problem though and you should ground it.
 
Caller ID on 921 now works

For what its worth, I have not been able to get the caller id to work on my 921 since I purchased my unit over a year go.

I just ported my pots line over to a voip provider and last weekend wired all my phone jacks in the house to use the voip line. To my amazement, caller id works flawlessly on my 921. I now feel that the caller id problem was related to my pots provider's service and not the 921.

What's weird is that the caller id always worked on my 811 and still works with the voip line.
 
Yes that was CSR BS, you need to have a ground, however the system will work without one( and yes I ground my systems), but it will work without. So the ground has nothing to do with caller ID.
 
I know that the ground is required by Dish, but does it really do anything? I mean I know it doesn't protect from lightning, so is the potential for static really that big?
 

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Total: 0, Members: 0, Guests: 0)

Who Read This Thread (Total Members: 1)

Latest posts