Cleaning up after the installers mess.

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The shingles on the roof are Owens-Corning brand.

Also blow-in insulation was used, which I HATE, you get coated with that stuff anytime you have to get in the attic.
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All the pink I've always seen comes in rolls with a paper back. All you see is the paper side when you're in the attic.
 
The blown in insulation in my attic is made out of recycled paper. It's way to hot in the attic for a respirator, and the blown-in particles hang in the air, and you can taste them when you breathe in.
 
Almost all homes I see in the midwest, both old and new, use 3 tab shingles. I have never seen those types of shingles until they were shown in this thread.

Here in New England, three tabs are becoming less and less common. Most new houses and reroof jobs use architectural type shingles. They are better for the roof and much easier to put down.
 
Well. The tech came out this morning not knowing what he had to do. I said the dish needs to be grounded. "Ok..I guess I can do that."

The whole time he had a "you a-hole, i'm not getting paid for this" look. Oh well, should of done it right the 1st time.

The dish itself had a leader coax connected to it.
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Which then snakes down and around, and into the gutter. Going to ground of the meter box. Noticed the trench is only 1/4 of an inch deep, I'm going to have to make it a lil deeper.
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Although its a freakishly long amount of coax, I did not notice any drop in signal.
 
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That's not a trench, it's a groove in the dirt! Did you pay to have the cable buried? If so, they should either refund that money or come back and actually bury it. Code in most places is 18" deep, IIRC.
 
LOL, That's just dumb, should of used the same ground at the house the phone box is using. People have no intelligence. *duh training video says use electrical meter ground, will run 50 feet of buried coax both ways to and from it to get a ground*
 
I NEED to know if this will work.

That coax is really a waste.

So here is my plan.

Remove the ground block off that pole. Splice the two wires together.

Remove the messenger wire from the coax.

install the ground block on the eave of the roof.

Connect the coax to that.

Splice the messenger wire from the dish to the messenger wire going down the gutter.
 
I NEED to know if this will work.

That coax is really a waste.

So here is my plan.

Remove the ground block off that pole. Splice the two wires together.

Remove the messenger wire from the coax.

install the ground block on the eave of the roof.

Connect the coax to that.

Splice the messenger wire from the dish to the messenger wire going down the gutter.

No the ground block has to be grounded within 20' of the ground point with 10ga solid copper green ground wire.
 
So what do I do?

There is NO line of sight back there.

Putting a ground rod in would be cheap, however running 100 feet of 6 gauge wire would cost over $125.

So, just leave the freakishly long coax run in place?
 
Grounding is more of an art than a science, regardless what people insist. Your house is not going to burn down to the ground and the gods of grounding are not going to send a lighting bolt to your dish to teach you a lesson. There are a fair percentage of installs that are not grounded or ineffectively grounded. If the current system works, leave it as it is if its properly grounded.

Also, this is not a utility, so therefore it doesn't need to be buried 18" deep. Usually i bury about 4" or the depth of the spade of a shovel. Personally, I would run conduit and only run it deep enough for me to easily rip it out later if I moved the dish.
 
Well I yanked the 75+ feet of coax going to the meter ground out. I installed a ground block under the soffit to keep it out of the rain more.

I hammered in a 5 foot ground rod (did not realize there was a spare in a pile of junk), into the ground close to the dish.

The ground wire is 10 gauge aluminum strand, which is about twice as thick as the messenger wire.

I ran the wire to the ground rod. The radiator clamp looks cheesemo, but I did not have the proper clamp.

I read that having 2 grounds on the property may cause a ground loop, but this ground is over 100+ feet away. I have seen main electrical grounds closer together in subdivisions. They were not bonded either.

All in all, a closer ground has been made for the dish, and I eliminated the long coax run.
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Well today I finalized it. I went out and bought a length of solid 12 gauge copper wire for the ground. I also moved the ground block down more, it looks better. I also put some 30 year silicone on the connection to keep ice from leaking into it.
 
Well I yanked the 75+ feet of coax going to the meter ground out. I installed a ground block under the soffit to keep it out of the rain more.

I hammered in a 5 foot ground rod (did not realize there was a spare in a pile of junk), into the ground close to the dish.

The ground wire is 10 gauge aluminum strand, which is about twice as thick as the messenger wire.

I ran the wire to the ground rod. The radiator clamp looks cheesemo, but I did not have the proper clamp.

I read that having 2 grounds on the property may cause a ground loop, but this ground is over 100+ feet away. I have seen main electrical grounds closer together in subdivisions. They were not bonded either.

All in all, a closer ground has been made for the dish, and I eliminated the long coax run.
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Buy a proper clamp to use on the rod, that looks ridicules.
 
I don't care how it looks, it in an area that no one can see. I did a continuity test, and the wire makes good contact with the rod.

I did go out and look for a ground rod clamp. They wanted FOUR DOLLARS for one. It has maybe 25 cents worth of brass, horribly overpriced.
 
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