DirecTV International Dish + SG2100

[tradewinds]

Iceberg, totally my fault. I had the wrong line connected. I had the circlular lnb (can't tell which when they come in the house but I thought I had tried them both) connected to the FTA. Also, I didn't realized after I keyed in the transponder you gave, that I also needed to do some F1, F2 to have it scan (not very user friedly I guess). Anyway, I got more Quality now than Signal on that TP....lol.....all is well for now till I implement the setup we confirmed this morning when the SG2100 arrives. Thanks a lot for all the hard work.


BTW - How do I check if the lnb is V or H or V and H?

 

[tradewinds]

Also, you had mentioned the following:

"Make sure in your receiver your LNB LO frequency is 10750"

Where did you get this number from and what is it for? All sats?

 

[Mr Tony]

LNB will be both...if it was only one polarity, it would say on the LNB

I have a LNB that has 2 outputs but one says "V" and one says "H" so it only outputs that polarity on each port

 

[tradewinds]

Strike.....Nevermind....I re-read your post

What are L and R (left and right) on lyngsat? They have L, R, H and V. (UPDATE: I checked and it looks as if it is only for DTV, so need not bother)

 

[Mr Tony]

Anyway, I got more Quality now than Signal on that TP....lol.....all is well for now till I implement the setup we confirmed this morning when the SG2100 arrives.

that transponder quality is really high. It almost maxes out the meter on mine

 

[Mr Tony]

Also, you had mentioned the following:

"Make sure in your receiver your LNB LO frequency is 10750"

Where did you get this number from and what is it for? All sats?

Each LNB has a LO frequency that usually is stamped on the unit

Standard LNB’s are 10750
DBS LNB’s are 11250
C-Band LNB’s are 5150
Universal are 10600

If its unknown, we usually say 10750

Yes for all KU band sats it will be 10750

 

[Mr Tony]

Strike.....Nevermind....I re-read your post

What are L and R (left and right) on lyngsat? They have L, R, H and V.

Left and right are for DBS slots since their polarity is circular

So when you set up a DBS transponder in the system

L=H
R=V

If you can move that DBS LNB to the other side of the KU LNB...Right now if you are facing the dish the DBS is on the right…move it to the left and you should be able to get the free audio on ExpressVu (91W)

I use to have the same setup and it worked great!

 

[tradewinds]

Don't think I can move it to the left since the KU LNB is hung off the DBS (which is on the arm) with a bracket. I can probally move the KU LNB to the other side but I doubt I can move the DBS LNB. I'll go see.

 

[Mr Tony]

you should be able to move the DBS LNB. Mine had a bracket that I could easily remove.

The KU band one (the cylinder one) needs to stay where it is.

 

[tradewinds]

Yes, you are right, the KU is on the arm and the DBS attaches with a bracket. However, the bracket is kind of only fits one way I think, I'll have to go up there and take a better look tomorrow. can't tell if it can be fliped, but if you did it before then it most likely can.

 

[Mr Tony]

if the bracket doesnt move, hose clamp, band clamp, duct tape it there

Band clamps (dryer clamps) work really good

 

[Tron]

Tron, Thank you for the very detail explaination. However, I am now very confused. Let me see if from what you have written, if I have this correct.
First, Note, the Phase-III Dish would only be hooked up to DTV receivers, not the FTA receiver.
Second, Are you stating that the existing two lnbs on the Int. Dish will not work as connected as follows:
Int. lnb-linear.....HF splitter......one line to........diseqcPort1.........SG2100..........FTA receiver
......................................other line to.....4x4 switch..............................directv receiver
Phase-III lnb.........one line to.................4x4 switch..............................directv receiver
Int. lnb-circular(DBS).....SatA line...............diseqcPort2..........SG2100.... ...FTA receiver.
The diseqc switch in the above connection is between the lnb and motor as you have indicated it should be.
So, the question is why would the above connections setup not work and why is the Invacom still needed?
Thanks.


BTW - Here is a diagram of the set-up which Iceberg and I discussed yesterday with the phase-III in place of the 18".

1) Correct, the Phase III dish would work only with DirecTV receivers and not with your FTA receiver.

2) You wouldn't need to get the Invacom, but I thought that earlier in the thread you had stated that you were interested in possibly using one. Just wanted to make sure that if you did buy the quad polar Invacom, that you got the right version (the C-120 flanged one). That's why I posted how you would hook the dish up using the quad polar Invacom. But you don't need to upgrade your existing LNB if you want to keep the one you have.

 

[tradewinds]

Tron, thanks for the follow-up. I will try to implement the setup in the last diagram above without the Invacom for now and see how things work out before jumping to purchase. Not many places are carrying the flanged version so prices are close to MSRP I believe. I have spent almost $180.00 for my Int. Dish and would like to leverage it for the FTA since DTV has moved the 95W programming I was interested in to their 101 Sat. Thanks.

 

[Tron]

Cool Good luck with the setup, and let us know how it works out!

 

[tradewinds]

Any comments (tips, tricks) on how to set up the SG2100 to view Clarke's Belt using this particular dish? Thanks.

I just saw Pete's post. I'll look there first. --> http://www.satelliteguys.us/showthread.php?t=50257&highlight=SG2100

 

[tradewinds]

Major issues

Iceberg,
Ok, I finally got the SG2100 delivered and an HF splitter.

I took the Int. Dish down and inserted the SG2100 arm into the dish's sleeve, but the sleeve is too big. So what I did was to put the top bolt through the sleeve and through the top hole of the SG2100 arm. There is however still some movement even though I tighten it up. Is there a way to get it tighter? I was thinking of maybe using some thick washers to take up the space.

Now, which level of the SG2100 needs to be set for my latitude (28 deg.)? One side on the SG2100 says latitude and the other side says elevation. I set the elevation side to 28 deg.

On the dish's elevation I set it to 25 deg. (i.e. 30 deg. - 4.97 deg. declination). Is this correct?

With these settings, I tried to but the dish with the SG2100 attached to it back on the pole and now the lnb arm is resting on the roof since the lnb arm is almost parallel to the ground and not facing upwards? Is this also what supposed to happened? Does this mean I have to move the arm to the other side of the roof?

Please advise. Thank you.

 

[PSB]

If your Lat. is 28 deg.

Then the motor elev. should be set to 62 deg.
The other side of the motor will read 28 deg. Lat.

The dish elevation will be 25.3 deg.

May have to maove everything to a down sloping roof!

 

[tradewinds]

Pete, Thank you for the reply. Yes, I have Lat. side of motor at 28 deg. and that has automatically put the elev side of the motor at 62 deg as you have indicated. Also, the dish elev. is at 25 deg (25.3 as you have indicated).

So, it appears I have everything set up correctly except I will have to move everything to a down sloping roof as you have pointed out. Is this the only solution?

Do you have any suggestions of the motor arm being narrower than the sleeve as I have stated above?

Thank you Pete.

 

[PSB]

Longer masts are available!

Remember the dish elevation can be changed slightly to peak the signal but the motor angle can never be moved.

Some PVC pipe will take up the slack in the shaft of the motor if needed, make sure to split it length ways, so that it can be tightened!

 

[tradewinds]

Ok,
I think I got it wrong based on what you stated. I was following the SG2100 manual that came with it and had set the elevation side on the motor to 28 deg. I just changed the latitude side to 28 deg. and now it looks like it will clear the roof (fingers crossed)

Good idea with the pvc pipe. I hope it does not crack when tightened up. What about the bottom of the motor arm, where there is a second hole. Is there a way to make use of this to support the bottom of the arm in the sleeve or do you think the pvc will do the job with the single bolt through the top hole of the motor.

Again, thank you for your quick reply and info.