Dish pointing and wiring

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nigelcaruthers

SatelliteGuys Family
Original poster
Jan 18, 2014
39
2
charlestom
Thanks for the aiming tips but I still need a little help.

I have a DirecTv SWM ODU to power the dish and I can't remember which connector goes to the dish and which goes to the tuner.
The two terminals are marked; "Signal to IRD"and the other one says "Power to SWM".
I know if I connect it wrong I would burn up the LNB and I don't want to chance it.

Help please.

Cheers
nigel
 
Thanks for the aiming tips but I still need a little help.

I have a DirecTv SWM ODU to power the dish and I can't remember which connector goes to the dish and which goes to the tuner.
The two terminals are marked; "Signal to IRD"and the other one says "Power to SWM".
I know if I connect it wrong I would burn up the LNB and I don't want to chance it.

Help please.

Cheers
nigel

The Power to SWM lead goes to the dish and the IRD lead goes to your tuner.
 
Correct Power Inserter hook-up

I've been all over You Tube and can't find anything specific about which connector goes to which.

Cheers
nigel
 
Transponders

Thanks. I have it hooked up and wondering which transponder should I use to tune 101 in the satellite as i don't have a meter?

Cheers
Nigel
 
Pretty hard to get your best alignment without a meter. I always aligned my own dish up until I went HD. D* recommended a tech to align the HD dish and I'm glad I went that way as you need good equipment to get your best aim. And with an HD signal you need a good aim for maximum effect. I would either get a meter or have D* align. It will save you headaches down the road.
 
Use the meter in the menu. Any of the transponders for 101 are okay except for 26, which is a spot beam IIRC.
 
Use the meter in the menu. Any of the transponders for 101 are okay except for 26, which is a spot beam IIRC.
Chip - from memory, spotbeam transponders on 101 are 4,12,18,20,26 and 28, so you should not use ay of those.

For pointing, IMHO you should always use the 101 screen that has all the transponders listed, not just one TP, then you can see the real effect of alignment and can also see if there's a problem with odd/even TPs.
 
Still,
The whole rig moves as a mass. Move one aspect and all others move somewhat.So ya peak 101 ( don't remember ever doing anything but tuning 1 and then checking 2) and check 99 or 103. A little poooosh west, like less than one degree, would bring up the HD sats so all were in the 90s. Beyond that, tighten stuff up & climb down. For sure (fer shure) don't spend the day screwing with tuning all them (those) transponders.

SD spot beams on the 101? I thought the 101 footprint was CONUS and it didn't make any difference which transponders you used. I gotta (should) read my mail more often.

Joe
 
I can't believe you would actually use transponder values for aiming a dish. When I am on the road and my meter seems to be having fits I just use the meter in my HR24. You only get to select the satellite, not any specific transponder. I peak this on 101 for the azimuth and elevation. Then I go to sat 99 and tweak the tilt. I get a great lock-in on everything. I don't do dithering on the road, but for a permanent installation I would take the time to get the very best signal I could with the dithering process.

Some of the junkies here my think using individual transponder values is best. But, for the average guy the basic meter value will give you a great picture without a lot of hassle.

Oh, and as for wiring use RG6 with compression fittings. It gives you the best opportunity for a successful installation.
 
Still,
The whole rig moves as a mass. Move one aspect and all others move somewhat.So ya peak 101 ( don't remember ever doing anything but tuning 1 and then checking 2) and check 99 or 103. A little poooosh west, like less than one degree, would bring up the HD sats so all were in the 90s. Beyond that, tighten stuff up & climb down. For sure (fer shure) don't spend the day screwing with tuning all them (those) transponders.

SD spot beams on the 101? I thought the 101 footprint was CONUS and it didn't make any difference which transponders you used. I gotta (should) read my mail more often.

Joe

Most SD locals are on 101 and they are all (except the LA/NY DNS channels) on spotbeams.
 
I can't believe you would actually use transponder values for aiming a dish. When I am on the road and my meter seems to be having fits I just use the meter in my HR24. You only get to select the satellite, not any specific transponder. I peak this on 101 for the azimuth and elevation. Then I go to sat 99 and tweak the tilt. I get a great lock-in on everything. I don't do dithering on the road, but for a permanent installation I would take the time to get the very best signal I could with the dithering process.

Some of the junkies here my think using individual transponder values is best. But, for the average guy the basic meter value will give you a great picture without a lot of hassle.

Oh, and as for wiring use RG6 with compression fittings. It gives you the best opportunity for a successful installation.

I use the same approach you do for alignment.
 
Most SD locals are on 101 and they are all (except the LA/NY DNS channels) on spotbeams.

I think that says the same thing I was getting at. Once the 101 is peaked the 99 & 103 are not hard to find & peak. Since everything moves when you make any adjustment I just move the dish to peak the 103 from a peaked 101. My reason for testing the pdd and even transponders is to test the LNB & cable. Missing odds or evens is a clue; LNB or cable.

Joe
 
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