Dish Relocation

Does this look like a quality install?

  • Yes; What do you like about it?

    Votes: 5 31.3%
  • No: Post what you think could have been better!

    Votes: 11 68.8%

  • Total voters
    16
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charper1 said:
Keep an eye and a level on it. No matter how sturdy today, over time (not long time) rain, sun and ice exposure will cause ALL WOOD to shrink, expand and warp, cause the dish's LOS to be eroded. Although it looks really good, I also prefer my dish instals to be out of arm's reach when standing on a 2 rung step stool. Unless you rent, I like roof or chimney mounts.

I don't like having roof mounts because after a few years, the roof might leak, also, my roof is being re-done this summer causing the dish having to be moved. This is where I originally wanted it and I'm fine with it. The fence has been there for years so hopefully it has adjusted to the weather.
 
Okay, I didn't specify. But I did say earlier that mine is on a metal pole. I am about to do some rewiring and make a few changes, and one of those would have been to put the blocks on the pole. That's why I was asking why you felt they should be inside.
 
you can see cox cable and thier bond below mine
 

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sheridan said:
Okay, I didn't specify. But I did say earlier that mine is on a metal pole. I am about to do some rewiring and make a few changes, and one of those would have been to put the blocks on the pole. That's why I was asking why you felt they should be inside.

inside, and grounded to a non interrupted cold water pipe, the entrance panel ground, the meter socket ground or a doublewide/trailer frame. and the ground wire HAS to be shorter coax run from the dish to IRD if it isnt it is worthless.

woooh, rufus,,, excellent grounding adventure

.....bill and ted!!
 
http://www.euken.net/group/seaint/mailarchive/2001a/msg01557.html
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=94941

I would suggest that the question of "can we live with this?" is for you
to answer. I would tend to think that my response would be "no", but then
I am not familiar with the actual situation. For example, if the
connection between the aluminum and steel a structural connection (i.e. is
load going through the connection)? If yes, then I would think that the
corrosion would be a definite problem. If no, then the corrosion could
only be an aesethic problem.

And yes, there will be corrosion. A galvanic reation (if I recall
correctly) between the two dissimilar metals WILL occur. Bascially,
aluminum + steel = big NO NO unless there is something to break the direct
physical connection (i.e. something like a rubber isolation pad, etc).

The key is to provide some sort of "break" between the steel and aluminum.
Unfortunately, I don't know of any way to do that with out pulling out the
"construction erasor" (i.e. demo the work) and rebuilding it per the
design.

Scott
 
With your permission Directvfreak, I'm adding your pictures to my presentation on how KA/KU installs are NOT to be done.

A wood post is not going to get the job done. Also, the DirecTV spec for pole mounts performed w/the AT-9 dish is 150 lbs of concrete; no wonder the original pole was not sturdy enough to give you good signal. I would opt to have the dish put back where it was, just make sure the requisite amount of concrete is added by the tech, the pole is leveled correctly and the dish dithered well and you'll be much happier in the long run!
 
I would relocate the bottom support to the other "L" side of the fence. The bottom support adds no value as the top one takes the load and has mechanical advantage of a longer length from the pipe. Moving the bottom support will increase the twisting resistance materially.
 
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