Future HD - Advice for Pole mounts

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Here's how I adapted a small piece of 1-5/8" galvanized pipe to the old SuperDish 2" pole. I couldn't find any stainless U-bolts long enough, so used some 6" carriage bolts often employed in deck installations. The plated "backers" are leftovers from wireless Internet equipment mounts. They are key to this adaption, as they have the curved side with serrations that dig into the pipes and provide stability.

sigmtr
 

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So why did you even bother to make this post? You asked for advice and then blatantly ignored every piece of advice that was given. Now you've wasted your time, our time, and made your installers job that much harder as he will have to somehow rig up a way to mount the dish to that oversized pole using hardware he problably DOESN'T have on his truck.
 
So why did you even bother to make this post? You asked for advice and then blatantly ignored every piece of advice that was given. Now you've wasted your time, our time, and made your installers job that much harder as he will have to somehow rig up a way to mount the dish to that oversized pole using hardware he problably DOESN'T have on his truck.

I did not BLATANTLY ignored every piece of advice that was given. I simply took every piece of advice into consideration. Is this not what this forum is for? For advices, tech support, tips, tricks, do's, don'ts and whathaveyou?
I simply took everything under advisement and came to the decision that I though BEST suited me.

As for the installers having their jobs being made harder, I have/will be taking care of that. I will be buying heavy duty galvanized U bolts complete with back brackets, washers, lock-nuts. All the tech simply will have to do is slide the U bolts through the holes on the mounting bracket and tighten. He then can configure as needed.

I would imagine the tech would be grateful for me not making him put in a pole in the dead of the winter, ground frozen solid. I will provide the U-bolts and hot cocoa if he so wishes.
 
Hi there Folks! The wife and I, we'd like to upgrade to the HD package probably after 1st of the year.

We currently have Dish 500 mounted on the side of the house on the wall part. I know if we do the 1000.2, it will be heavier and may need the support rods. I personally don't care to have the NEW dish mounted to the wall, and would prefer to have it pole mounted.
I have some questions. Currently the 500 dish is looking at 119 and 110. The right side of the dish is just a hair away from hitting the house wall. Picture will show it (hopefully). When we do the upgrade, will the tech align it to 129 or 61.5? My locals are the KC, MO market. I'd like to move the dish out 2 or so feet and up 5 feet away from it's current location. The reason why? I am "scared" that the future dish will have LOS with the 61.5 but as far as the 129 is concerned, the sky is clear to shine it through.
I took several pictures.
  • There is 1 picture looking straight to the sky atop the Dish 500.
  • A picture looking atop the shovel (future pole) straight to 129/121/119/110/61.5
  • Picture of sideview - at a glance
  • Picture of front - at a glance
  • Picture of where current dish is with the eave in question
Do you folks (by guess estimate) think I will have enough "space" to aim at 61.5 should the installer do that?
Reason why I am asking because I want to personally do my own pole mount. Want to bury it in fibered concrete 30 inches down...using 4 bolts in criss-cross pattern at the end..middle and top within 30 inches. What kind of pole do I use? I dont want to buy a big mouthed pole and the Dish tech hasta jury rig it onto the pole. I'd like something the Dish Tech can just slide the dish down, clamp down and be done with it. I am planning on doing this pole mount install within 2 weeks before the ground freezes up for the winter. That way, the Dish tech can come out and thank me for making his job THAT much easier when it's 20 degrees outside. Probably will have him give me quite some slack so in the spring, I will trench my lines leading up to the house. Thanks in advance. Sorry pictures turned out so-so..and no..its not the Northern Lights you're seeing. I have an OLDY digital camera soo....
If you D-500 antenna is close to touching the house for 110/119 reception, it is probably not going to be able to see the 129. Based on the photos, a pole mt where the shovel is will do fine. The D1000.2 is larger than the d-500 but not much heavier. Struts are not needed. The mast is much longer than the d-500 mast. However if you must, go ahead and sick the pole. Use a standard 5.5' by 1 5/8 " galvanized chain link line post. That is the standard post we use for all pole mounts.
 
If your picture is looking to the southern sky, it appears you have the satellite locations backwards!!!!! Remember, the LNBF receives a signal that is bounced off the dish. So the satellites are actually reversed from where you show them. For example, 61.5 is closer to the East Coast and 129 is closer to the West Coast.
yes, small numbers to the left.
 
Thank you every body for your help on this. I ultimately decided to go with a 2 3/8 heavy duty terminal fence post. It is 1 foot away from where the current dish is mounted onto the southside wall. I went down 30 inches..did 4 nuts n bolts within the 30 inches of the post...3 bags of concrete and poured a little bit of leftover concrete down the post hole. Stiff as a rock and doesn't move. Will have the future dish U bolted on so I can have options for multiple dishes later on. Thanks again for everything every one.
I know it says you are from MO..But your avatar got my attention. The photo looks like it was taken on the NJ Turnpike. That road uses the very same overhead electronic signs and mounting structures. Am I correct?
 
I know it says you are from MO..But your avatar got my attention. The photo looks like it was taken on the NJ Turnpike. That road uses the very same overhead electronic signs and mounting structures. Am I correct?

Hehehe..actually I live in the KC metro area. KC just put up signs like the ones in my avatar a year or two or 3 back. Now to answer your question - the avatar actually is from a website that you can custom write your message onto the board and it makes it look real. My "custom" message says "attention - Dodge Rammer truck ahead -steer clear of all lanes or be rammed" hehe can't really read it unless you had a big microscope.
Anyways thank your for your comments/advice from previous postings.
 
How deep do you need to with the post when doing this?
14-16 inches.. A bit deeper in looser or sandy soils.. I use about 40- 50 lbs of concrete here. Our soil is compacted. I will use more if needed. Another thing you can do is dig the hole bell shaped. With the bottom of the hole larger.
 
Check your frostline...here (Buffalo NY) anything not 24" or deeper will heave out.

Here in Mizzourah I believe the frostline is 30"..so I dug with a manual auger (like a motorized auger, but by hand twisting it circularly) down to 33 inches and used 75 pounds concrete filling it up to maybe 5 inches below grade, and then put dirt on top of it for a nice clean look. I also had 4 bolts sticking out 6 inches criss-crossed on the bottom pole to give it teeth to attach to the concrete so it wont turn. After it hardened, I then put 40 inches of concrete into the pipe down below. I'd like to SEE that post heave out!! LOL :D:D
 
Here in Mizzourah I believe the frostline is 30"..so I dug with a manual auger (like a motorized auger, but by hand twisting it circularly) down to 33 inches and used 75 pounds concrete filling it up to maybe 5 inches below grade, and then put dirt on top of it for a nice clean look. I also had 4 bolts sticking out 6 inches criss-crossed on the bottom pole to give it teeth to attach to the concrete so it wont turn. After it hardened, I then put 40 inches of concrete into the pipe down below. I'd like to SEE that post heave out!! LOL :D:D

Check this out....Frost depth map...http://www.sqfoot.com/pdf/US_Map_Frost_DepthAVG.pdf
Also read a list of military guidelines for construction.
There is a bit of misinformation regarding "frostline", "Frost depth" and "permafrost".
Frost depth in and of itself does not cause "heave". The soil type, amount of soil moisture, depth of water table all factor into whether or not an object will be pushed up and in some cases out of the soil due to cold temperatures. To assume a standard depth is unwise.
Reinforcement is the key. That's according to the info I read on the military site....http://www.usace.army.mil/usace-docs/eng-manuals/em1110-1-1905/c-2.pdf#search='frost depth'
It's rather lengthy. But gives good info...
Missou is weird. Depth start at less than 10" in the south and as much as 30" in the north
....
 
14-16 inches.. A bit deeper in looser or sandy soils.. I use about 40- 50 lbs of concrete here. Our soil is compacted. I will use more if needed. Another thing you can do is dig the hole bell shaped. With the bottom of the hole larger.

I need to install a pole mount (current telescoping mast mount is inadequate), have absolutely no frost problems, but do have serious wind issues. The pole will be 8', buried in concrete at least 24" deep with bolts or threaded rod through at 90 degree angles for stability.

My concern is whether or not a direct mount over a 1-5/8" O.D. pipe will give me the resistance needed to keep the dish from rotating on the pole. The heavier 2" pole sounds good, but U-bolts have a habit of rotating around pipe as well. The wind whips through a pass between two mountain ranges, barrels 25 miles across open desert, hits the upslope of the 300' high ridge my house sits on and slams into the home site at frequently high velocities. This is, of course, the southern exposure of the house and where the dish would be placed for optimal LOS to the sats.

I know that it's impossible to say for certain without a site survey, but I'd love opinions on what might work best for my situation. Installation techs have been very helpful, but they haven't encountered wind loads like I have and don't know much more than I do about how best to proceed.

Thanks so much for any/all ideas and opinions!

FX
 
I need to install a pole mount (current telescoping mast mount is inadequate), have absolutely no frost problems, but do have serious wind issues. The pole will be 8', buried in concrete at least 24" deep with bolts or threaded rod through at 90 degree angles for stability.

My concern is whether or not a direct mount over a 1-5/8" O.D. pipe will give me the resistance needed to keep the dish from rotating on the pole. The heavier 2" pole sounds good, but U-bolts have a habit of rotating around pipe as well. The wind whips through a pass between two mountain ranges, barrels 25 miles across open desert, hits the upslope of the 300' high ridge my house sits on and slams into the home site at frequently high velocities. This is, of course, the southern exposure of the house and where the dish would be placed for optimal LOS to the sats.

I know that it's impossible to say for certain without a site survey, but I'd love opinions on what might work best for my situation. Installation techs have been very helpful, but they haven't encountered wind loads like I have and don't know much more than I do about how best to proceed.

Thanks so much for any/all ideas and opinions!

FX
the 2"pole is best. there ar eadapaters available. these would prvent you from having to use U-bolts.
Here's one example

17
75-PSA2 Quick Pole / Pipe Adapter

Adapts mounting poles to DBS satellite dishes. 1 5/8" OD, 8" long heavy gauge steel. Fits Existing dish mounting poles. Allows for quick and easy mounting of your FTA, Dish Network or DirecTV satellite dish onto your existing unused dish pole. Simply slip adapter over existing pole and tighten, then place your new dish on the adapter. Also ideal for mounting to rooftop vent pipes.

This is availble through...Satellite Dish Universal and Roof Mounts
. You also may want to consider guy wires and turnbuckle style bolts, with eye hooks anchored to the ground in concrete. Sounds like a very windy environment. BTWE go with a schedule 40 thickness material for the pole. In fact I recommend using galvanized electrical conduit.
 

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