FYI on universal remote

[turbosat]

Had to buy a replacement remote for mom's old sanyo tv today, so I grabbed an 8 dollar RCA universal remote at wallyworld. Looking through the code-list , I found that it lists several FTA brand-names under the section "Satellite".
For what it's worth, this thing lists a code for Coolsat, one for Fortec Star, and one for Pansat. I may try it on one of these mercury 2's I have just for fun later and see if it works it.
Also lists some of the C-band box-makers old names also, with codes for General Instrument,Toshiba, Motorala (two there), HTS, Next Level, Proscan, and of course most of the pay-tv box like Bell, Directv, Dishnetwork, Echostar,/Voom, Star Choice and several more known brands.
This is the RCA brand that says "controls 3 devices" on the packaging, for about 7.95, and uses 2 AA batteries. Might be worth a try if anybody runs into a suddenly-broken remote for c-band or these few fta brands. And it does tons of tv brand names and dvd recorder-players and vcrs too.

 

[funkypc]

Neat. Most remotes don't have our receivers listed.

I have a URC-8820 JP1 remote that I program with my computer to do everything I need.

 

[SpiffWilkie]

Neat. Most remotes don't have our receivers listed.

I have a URC-8820 JP1 remote that I program with my computer to do everything I need.

+1. I have an 8810 that I got from walmart for about $15 several years ago. JP1 is the way to go.

I program mine for satellite, tivo, tv, dvd player, boombox. Not bad for a cheap-o remote.

 

[classicsat]

I too am a JP1/JP1.2 user, since I got my Cinema 6 (although at its end of production) and programmed it for C-band, alternate Starchoice codes, TiVo, and other things, and since have got an 8017, 8910, and 8820, and programmed them the same, for my new TV, DVD players, FTA box, and the A/V switcher I built (which uses a keen design where some of the programming is in strategic design of the remote, which I directly translated into the upgrade I designed for the JP1 remote.)

 

[Mr Tony]

good to know

 

[wrdavis]

Nice to know there other JP1 users here, I was beginning to think I was the only one here.

 

[Sassan]

Good to know. I had my Fortec programmed on a Harmony remote, but it definitely cost more than 7.95!

 

[zamar23]

In my view a Universal Learning Remote is a much better option: some are cheap like UR RF-20, can be complemented by a RF Remote Extender of the same make, and far exceed ordinary Universal Remote command choice for any type of equipment.

Any ideas on how to shield an RF Remote Extender, so that its not saturated most of the time by environmental RF noise?

 

[B.J.]

My favorite remote is the RS 15-2116 or 2117. Unfortunately they don't sell these anymore, but you can still find them on EBAY.
These are 8 in one remotes, and are JP1 programmable and also are learning remotes, but in my opinion, the learning process is a pain in the neck, plus it's a waste of the remote's memory. It's more efficient to create a device with a JP1 program.
I've also used one of those One-4-all URC type remotes, that was functionally equivalent to the 2116, however that remote had small buttons that someone with fat fingers like me would have problems with. The 2116 has big easy to find in the dark buttons.
My wife uses one of those Logitech Harmony One remotes, and she really likes it, but I prefer JP1 remotes. So far she's been able to find every device she needs for that remote, but I prefer the ability to be able to create devices for remotes that are too obscure to be in their database.
There is a RS 7 in one remote that is similar to the 2117, and I'm using one of those too, it they don't sell that one anymore either. It's too bad, they seem to be switching away from remotes with the JP1 capability.

 

[zamar23]

I looked at RS 15-2117 Manual at Radio Shack website - they do look similar to RF-20 in functions scope, but RS Remotes have a lot less physical memory compare to URC models. Is it possible to switch RF ON / OFF to extend batteries life? On RF-20 its not possible. Is there Remote Extender (IR/RF Command Center) also subject to ongoing RF interference from just about anything around? Did you try to shield it in any way, and what helped, if anything?

URC MRF-100B Powerblaster RF Extender is suffering from chronic RF interference, including extreme sensitivity to wiring inside the walls, and requires fine tuned positioning to decrease interference, otherwise its saturated all the time, and emits strong IR signal blocking work of every remote in the room. Also, pressing a buttons sequence fast on the Remote saturates Powerblaster. URC makes a newer narrow band IR/RF Remote and Extender versions now which work with a set of assigned TVs independently with each, and much better shielded, but they're unreasonably expensive. Interesting IR/RF Remote & Extender comparison is given here.

 

[B.J.]

I looked at RS 15-2117 Manual at Radio Shack website - they do look similar to RF-20 in functions scope, but RS Remotes have a lot less physical memory compare to URC models. Is it possible to switch RF ON / OFF to extend batteries life? On RF-20 its not possible. Is there Remote Extender (IR/RF Command Center) also subject to ongoing RF interference from just about anything around? Did you try to shield it in any way, and what helped, if anything?

....

I use the 2116s not 21117, which don't have RF capability. My one4all URC model has RF, but I never use it. I use the RS pyramid things, ie the IR extenders, not RF extenders. I once tried combining the IR and RF extenders by having one extender send to the other, but that didn't work very well, as they both seem to light up when activated, and the things went into a state of oscillation. Two sets of IR extenders do everything I need.

 

[zamar23]

I can't use wireless IR Extenders due to lack of direct Line-of-Sight btw them in my setup. But after posting yesterday about cheaper RF Extenders like URC MRF-100B environmental RF noise issue, I decided to do more experimenting to combat it, since I felt like URC didn't sufficiently shield the Powerblaster on purpose: try this and then buy a 10-fold costlier narrow band model. The device can detect RF 418 Mhz signals from the URC RF-20 Remote at 50-to-100 feet, and synchronously emits IR signals towards controlled equipment. RF interference is present, when both Power and RF lights on the Extender are lit continuously, and usually results in IR sensors of all equipment being saturated and impossible to control by neither their own Remotes no an URC IR/RF Learning Remote. Its real pain the *ss most of the time.

First I tried to change direction and then detached its outside antenna section, which made no difference: the device remained saturated. It took me some effort to open very tight case of MRF-100B Powerblaster without damaging it. Its 2 screws are visible on the Back Cover, but the other 2 are hidden behind glued bottom posts, plus the case and back cover are tightly held together by hidden plastic snap locks. Once open, I found RF Circuitry PCB soldered on a bigger IR PCB and totally unshielded.

Luckily, I have a high grade Cooper Foil with one side glued and covered by thick insulation paper - ideal RF shielding material. I removed the PCB from the case, cut 2 Foil pieces and placed inside both case and cover of the Extender by paper sides towards the PCBs, while not covering by foil the IR Emitters Window. The foil pieces fit inside well, if you make holes in the foil for inner Cover Posts. The foil is now shielding internal antenna section from the RF PCB, and the bigger device PCB from outside RF noise coming from all sides. I then assembled the Extender back and switched On. Its RF noise detection Light was no longer bright solid, but blinking intermittently and much weaker. OK: that's better, but still not enough.

By moving the Extender, I then found an area of the wall, where interference was minimal - it was furthest area from windows about 50 cm from the corner - and mounted the Extender on the wall there opposite to our Entertainment Center. Still some interference remained, and was apparently caused by the Extender's 9V DC Power Adapter and also internal wall wiring. Then I run the Extender's Power Cord across the wall on an angle and in cross contact with its Power Adapter, thus minimizing inductive noise in the cord, and plugged a plastic Terminator to an adjacent Power Outlet to shield it. Vu a la - RF Light on the Extender went Off and remained Off, when switching the power On/Off or walking around the room, which never happen before. I checked if it still works with RF-20 Remote, and it did work perfectly: despite the Remote's batteries were half discharged, Powerblaster was able to receive through the wall from another room a lengthy Macro sequence and transmit it without errors to a Sat STB. :up Will see how it goes on a sunny weekday, when the large city around emits a lot more RF noise.

 

[Cosmokramer11]

I have a universal remote got it at walmart. Works ok for my coolsat 5000 but it will not let me set the time on the stb for some reason

 

[zamar23]

OK, weekday testing revealed that the modded URC Powerblaster is well protected from environmental RF noise emitted by a large industrial city on a sunny day. However, this device still remains a subject of some non-critical RF interference at night in large multi-dwelling buildings with adjacent units having multiple electrical and electronic devices of various kind, mostly via internal wall wiring and dirty AC Power from outlets. It's for that very reason most NIM Tuners in Sat STBs are hidden inside their own metal enclosures. Not a lot more can be done to completely shield the Powerblaster's RF circuitry due to very cheap design with limited free space inside the case and complete lack of specific circuitry designed to combat interference.

 

[zamar23]

Adding to the above, I recently found that URC Powerblaster will retransmit IR signal from a pointed to it URC Remote without being connected to a power outlet. That's nice, as RF residual interference is completely eliminated this way. However RF signal will not be converted by Poweblaster to IR signal, unless its powered.