Got a C-Band dish...now some questions
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Congrats Ice, now get that baby going so you can start trying to figure out how you're gonna get 4:2:2 into the project. We all know it's going to happen, hopefully sooner than later.
And Jim, I definitely concur about "It's called getting OLD, wait until you about 20 more years on the body".
Al
And Jim, I definitely concur about "It's called getting OLD, wait until you about 20 more years on the body".
Al
4:2:2 will come down the line.
Now I just need to do some consolidating of wiring...thank god for a suspended ceiling in the basement and easy access to the living room
Buddy of mine asked me the other day "do they make a wall plate with 2 connections?" I told him yes and showed him my rigged 4 coax connection wall plate
Now I just need to do some consolidating of wiring...thank god for a suspended ceiling in the basement and easy access to the living room
Buddy of mine asked me the other day "do they make a wall plate with 2 connections?" I told him yes and showed him my rigged 4 coax connection wall plate
well I figured out part of my issue
tonight before the sun went down I moved my G10 dish out of the way and put the C-Band dish as far back on the deck as I could. I had issues with the LNB being off (V were H and vise versa)...now I know why
I had the skew skewed wrong. my eyesight must suck too
I took a level out and put it up against the notch for 0 and leveled it. Since IA6 is my TS, G4 is a little buit skewed but I had it skewed the wrong way to begin with.
Then I left to go get some dinner and well, there's tomorrow
Have to move my 2nd motorized out of the way (the dish is blocking about a foot oft he dish) and then I should have a clean shot
tonight before the sun went down I moved my G10 dish out of the way and put the C-Band dish as far back on the deck as I could. I had issues with the LNB being off (V were H and vise versa)...now I know why
I had the skew skewed wrong. my eyesight must suck too
I took a level out and put it up against the notch for 0 and leveled it. Since IA6 is my TS, G4 is a little buit skewed but I had it skewed the wrong way to begin with.
Then I left to go get some dinner and well, there's tomorrow
Have to move my 2nd motorized out of the way (the dish is blocking about a foot oft he dish) and then I should have a clean shot
nah. I'll be on the ladder...its a 15 minute job
-remove motorized
-move to new pole
-reaim
the new pole is 2 feet from the old
-remove motorized
-move to new pole
-reaim
the new pole is 2 feet from the old
haha very funny
the lag bolts are 1/2" by 2 1/2"
The C-Band dish takes the goofy wrench they send you...its not standard and I dont think its metric
the lag bolts are 1/2" by 2 1/2"
The C-Band dish takes the goofy wrench they send you...its not standard and I dont think its metric
Iceberg,
Assuming correct F/D ratio, Focal Distance and feedhorn is pointing to center of dish,
Method I've used is to zip tie a ku lnbf on the left or right side of the C Band throat, then peak a KU channel. At this point you should be able to get C Band although you may have to do minor tweaking to peak the C Band.
Another plus is you may decide to leave the KU lnbf on.
Assuming correct F/D ratio, Focal Distance and feedhorn is pointing to center of dish,
Method I've used is to zip tie a ku lnbf on the left or right side of the C Band throat, then peak a KU channel. At this point you should be able to get C Band although you may have to do minor tweaking to peak the C Band.
Another plus is you may decide to leave the KU lnbf on.
well I did a little working on it today but had to stop due to wind (the dish kept getting moved)
Aimed and was able to get the two church channels on TP15 & 16 but what doesnt make sense is I skewed the LNB like I'm suppose to (+5 so its turned counterclockwise) and BAM I got some test card at a 50 quality...but the polarity is backwards.
Checked to make sure I was at the center by using the flashlight technique..yep I am
So I did what Pete says to do all the time....blind scan
Blind scanned and got the networks but only a 15 quality so it pinged the signal but wont scan in. Also it pings it on V polarity, not H
I have some more work to do but I think the big thing is I have to move the one dish on the roof. It looks like its blocking a big part of the one side of the dish.
And I checked elevation and even the bottom of the dish clears the roof line
Aimed and was able to get the two church channels on TP15 & 16 but what doesnt make sense is I skewed the LNB like I'm suppose to (+5 so its turned counterclockwise) and BAM I got some test card at a 50 quality...but the polarity is backwards.
Checked to make sure I was at the center by using the flashlight technique..yep I am
So I did what Pete says to do all the time....blind scan
Blind scanned and got the networks but only a 15 quality so it pinged the signal but wont scan in. Also it pings it on V polarity, not H
I have some more work to do but I think the big thing is I have to move the one dish on the roof. It looks like its blocking a big part of the one side of the dish.
And I checked elevation and even the bottom of the dish clears the roof line
oh as for the focal distance....those test cards that I get seem to be the same signal regardless of focal length. I slide the LNB in and out and it stays the same...but like I say its a start...too bad this dang weather is goofy
Iceberg said:well I did a little working on it today but had to stop due to wind (the dish kept getting moved)
Aimed and was able to get the two church channels on TP15 & 16 but what doesnt make sense is I skewed the LNB like I'm suppose to (+5 so its turned counterclockwise) and BAM I got some test card at a 50 quality...but the polarity is backwards.
Checked to make sure I was at the center by using the flashlight technique..yep I am
So I did what Pete says to do all the time....blind scan
Blind scanned and got the networks but only a 15 quality so it pinged the signal but wont scan in. Also it pings it on V polarity, not H
I have some more work to do but I think the big thing is I have to move the one dish on the roof. It looks like its blocking a big part of the one side of the dish.
And I checked elevation and even the bottom of the dish clears the roof line
On C band it is common to be one channel off of where you think you should be , if the polarity is off .
TP's 1 & 2 are the same frequency , the difference being the polarity . If polarity is off 90 degrees , you will be a channel off .
My guess is set the 2 church channels ( Galaxy 4 ) so they come in on 15 & 16 and forget about where the mark on the LNBF is . That is where those channels are suppose to be .
I got these 2 channels with only moderate sparkles on my 90cm mini-bud .
My analog receiver has a menu choice for polarity ( using a polorotor motor ) . A sat can be " normal " or " reverse " . Often every other sat will be " normal " while the ones in between are " reverse " . This cuts down on bleed over from one sat to another .
I would tweek on the weakest analog channel you can pick up on G 4 . Then blind scan on DVB-S receiver . Once you get a few digital channels , tweek again , watching signal quality on a TV hooked up to the DVB-S receiver , especially the focal distance and skew .
Did you say you have a Pansat ? Does it have connections for skew ? Another method is to pick up a feed horn , w/polorotor & LNB . Makes skew much easier .
Lastly , if you get really into C band , consider a motor .
Best of luck ,
Wyr
yep. I have that tooWyrTwister said:
the 1500 doesnt have the connections for skew....the analog ones do...and I am getting a feedhorn, polorator and LNB soon (Monday)Did you say you have a Pansat ? Does it have connections for skew ? Another method is to pick up a feed horn , w/polorotor & LNB . Makes skew much easier .
The latter model Pansats I have seen have the connections for skew control .
But most FTA receivers do not .
Best of luck ,
Wyr
But most FTA receivers do not .
Best of luck ,
Wyr
OK I just got a different LNB from another member here
Channelmaster LNB and a Gardiner LNB downconver. Cant tell temperature (all on it is a big 25)
I’ll take a picture later….so now the question is is there a specific way to mount this? I really cant find any numbers on it other than some numbers by the scaler rings that go from 5-95 in 10 increments…or does it really matter as the skew will be done by the 3 wires
Channelmaster LNB and a Gardiner LNB downconver. Cant tell temperature (all on it is a big 25)
I’ll take a picture later….so now the question is is there a specific way to mount this? I really cant find any numbers on it other than some numbers by the scaler rings that go from 5-95 in 10 increments…or does it really matter as the skew will be done by the 3 wires
They are on 15 & 16 but the polarity is off....maybe the new LNB takes care of that. I also now have a DVB receiver that does do the polarity...an old Pansat 2100A
Real old names for the satellites in it
GE3
GE4
T4
Theres not even IA6 in it (not even T6)
Berg, it's my thinking that it doesn't really matter how you orient the polarotor type feed horn.
I'm basing that on my experience with my old BUD system which used a Chaparal Corotor II Plus feed horn. It had 360 degree adjustability. Three wires from my receiver went to the servo motor on the feed horn, which controled the orientation of the probe inside the feed horn. My analog receiver could store the optimal polarity for each satellite.
But I'm not optimistic that your new feedhorn setup will give you any better results than your old one did. I hope I'm wrong.
I'm basing that on my experience with my old BUD system which used a Chaparal Corotor II Plus feed horn. It had 360 degree adjustability. Three wires from my receiver went to the servo motor on the feed horn, which controled the orientation of the probe inside the feed horn. My analog receiver could store the optimal polarity for each satellite.
But I'm not optimistic that your new feedhorn setup will give you any better results than your old one did. I hope I'm wrong.
OK...My analog and DVB have a spot for the 3 wires7720driver said:
there's been some changes made recently.
-moved my 36" dish out fo the way opn the deck railing. this allowed me to mnove the dish back an extra foot or so (which now I clear the roof)
-I moved the 30" dish that was partially blocking part fo the C-Band dish
Now I have a clean shot with no LOS issues
Sounds good, berg.
I think I remember you saying that you once had a 10 foot BUD. How come you didn't keep it? Too big to hide from the neighbors' view?
I think I remember you saying that you once had a 10 foot BUD. How come you didn't keep it? Too big to hide from the neighbors' view?
I believe that is a 25 degree LNB. The numbers on the feedhorn correspond to focal depth settings. I have my lnb mounted with the LNB at 12 oclock originally, then played with it to get the best signal. The polarotor will help a lot with that, as long as you are in the ballpark you can fine tune it.
Good Luck
Good Luck
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