Yes. Rarely if ever is the mounting pole a ground rod specification or adequate to do the job properly. Next to the pole, drive a specification ground rod 6 to 10 ft. into the ground and attach a solid ground wire conductor to the pole with a standard clamp. Soil conditions dictate and local codes dictate the length. Dry desert conditions require deeper and swamp less length. If you take a direct hit your electronics is probably hosed regardless of ground quality. The idea here is to bleed off static electricity continuously to prevent buildup during times when the conditions are right for a direct hit. Keeping the static charge low on the pole will reduce the odds of a direct hit. You do this by improving the quality of the pole to static ground path.
That depends on the local codes. Here in CT there must be a 10 gauge wire connecting the dish to the cold water feed within 5 feet of where it enters the house. Check with your local town hall to find your local codes.
The case of the meter socket The mast of the SE Cables (as long as it is Metal) The Line side of the service enterance Race way (As long as it is metal) The case of the panel The water pipe within 5 feet of the entrance of the water main Any part of the main ground wire incuding the ground rod. If you drive a new ground rod then it must be bonded with a minimum of #4 to the main grounding system. Useless except for extreme runs pole mounts. If you install a seperate ground rod, and do not bond it you are asking for trouble, there will be a difference in ground potential. Metal Building structure (comercial buildings)
You can't ground to conduit, unless it is a service raceway