H3 Prob or ??

At this point the next step is for a qualified electrician to address the OP's situation. he knows he has to do this so now he has to do it. it seems as if he's avoiding having an electrician come out and address this perhaps because of the money but that is most likely the problem he's having so doing anything else is just futile and a waste of time. let's eliminate the most likely culprit: the wiring or balance Etc of his home electrical. and UPS can only do so much in the long run if the electrical is really messed up in some way.

OP, please let us know what the electrician says about your situation.
 
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At this point the next step is for a qualified electrician to address the OP's situation. he knows he has to do this so now he has to do it. it seems as if he's avoiding having an electrician come out and address this perhaps because of the money but that is most likely the problem he's having so doing anything else is just futile and a waste of time. let's eliminate the most likely culprit: the wiring or balance Etc of his home electrical. and UPS can only do so much in the long run if the electrical is really messed up in some way.

OP, please let us know what the electrician says about your situation.
An online UPS might work to fix the problem as they always run off the battery instead of just monitoring the live electrical feed and kicking in when necessary. But true online UPS are a bit expensive and overkill for most houses.
 
Has every single coax connector been examined or replaced? Have the stingers been checked?
I don't know what "stingers" are, but I think all coax connectors are new, since everything (from a new Dish on the roof, down to the Hopper in the house) has been replaced. I did find that the coax connectors from the wall connector to the Hopper were barely even hand tight - the one at the wall almost fell off when I started tightening it. I do plan to have electrical checked out, though I will have to wait until I can afford it. I retired recently and am now on a fixed income. What puzzles me about the electrical thing is why there is absolutely no other evidence of a problem in the house - TV's, computers, WiFi equipment - everything else is working perfectly. All that stuff is a bit older than the Hopper - not sure if that would make a difference or not. BTW - I ran the Hopper power cord (using a short, heavy duty extension cord) to another room that is on a different circuit and it made no difference.
 
An online UPS might work to fix the problem as they always run off the battery instead of just monitoring the live electrical feed and kicking in when necessary. But true online UPS are a bit expensive and overkill for most houses.
Someone mentioned that they had used a "Line conditioner" at one time - I'm not familiar with that device but am wondering if it might help.
At this point the next step is for a qualified electrician to address the OP's situation. he knows he has to do this so now he has to do it. it seems as if he's avoiding having an electrician come out and address this perhaps because of the money but that is most likely the problem he's having so doing anything else is just futile and a waste of time. let's eliminate the most likely culprit: the wiring or balance Etc of his home electrical. and UPS can only do so much in the long run if the electrical is really messed up in some way.

OP, please let us know what the electrician says about your situation.

Yes, "OP" definitely has to wait until he can pay for an electrician to do that. He is retired recently and now on a fixed income. Doesn't have or use credit cards. Everything else in this house (which we purchased in 2005 and have made no alterations to) is working fine. If there was (or is) an "un-balanced" problem, it's been with us for over 12 years. And the Hopper 3 that I purchased the 2nd month that it was available has been working fine up until recently.

I tried putting the Hopper on a borrowed "CyberPower 1500" UPS and went 3 full days without a glitch (the longest in weeks). Unfortunately, only 3 days though, until the problem returned with a vengeance.

Right now I am doing free trials with both YouTube TV and PS Vue. They are both only $35 a month and are working very well.. I don't want to go that route - I like my Dish - but I may unfortunately have to consider it at some point.

None of this is meant to be argumentative - I'm just frustrated with something that makes no sense to me.

Thanks for the input - and for the record, regardless of what I do or do not understand, I would LOVE to have the electrical checked out, whether it makes sense or not, just to cross this one off the list (or fix the problem once and for all).
 
The stinger is the center conductor in a coax cable. It should be just a bit above the surrounding screw on part.

Line/power conditioners improve the quality of the incoming power by removing some static/noise from the incoming power. They guard against over and under voltage and contain one or more batteries for those quick dropouts or more extended brownouts or blackouts. Some even smooth the sinusoidal wave.

If your circuit is overtaxed or includes an inherently noisy device such as a washer (anything with a sizable motor) or even poorly made fluorescent lighting, a line conditioner can help.

Here’s one of mine, discontinued I believe, topped by a VHS that gets used about once every other year.
View attachment 131392
 
The stinger is the center conductor in a coax cable. It should be just a bit above the surrounding screw on part.

Line/power conditioners improve the quality of the incoming power by removing some static/noise from the incoming power. They guard against over and under voltage and contain one or more batteries for those quick dropouts or more extended brownouts or blackouts. Some even smooth the sinusoidal wave.

If your circuit is overtaxed or includes an inherently noisy device such as a washer (anything with a sizable motor) or even poorly made fluorescent lighting, a line conditioner can help.

Here’s one of mine, discontinued I believe, topped by a VHS that gets used about once every other year.
View attachment 131392
thanks much for all the info (now I'll know what is "stinging" me LOL) .. for some reason I am unable to view your attachment (I get an error "you do not have permission to view.......").

Last night I moved everything to a different part of the house - so the Hopper is on a different TV as wll as different circuit, etc. Since there was very little in the way of useful recorded programs (they were all in pieces), I did a factory reset, so everything is starting from scratch. So far, the Hopper hasn't so much as burped, but then, I've had this happen before. If things continue this way, I won't consider anything "fixed" for a good week or 2 this time.

I'm interested in maybe trying a conditioner. It just generally sounds like a good idea regardless of what else happens.
 
A few years back I had some crazy issues with a 622 it ended up being water was shorting out the cable coming from the Dish . I had a barrel connection halfway to the house it was sealed and taped. I couldn’t believe what the wire looked like it was total burnt and fused to the connector. It still allowed signal to get to the receiver but was making it act up . Replacing that took care of the issue. Now if you here They Or Back. Or GET OUT . You probably have a bigger problem.
 
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A few years back I had some crazy issues with a 622 it ended up being water was shorting out the cable coming from the Dish . I had a barrel connection halfway to the house it was sealed and taped. I couldn’t believe what the wire looked like it was total burnt and fused to the connector. It still allowed signal to get to the receiver but was making it act up . Replacing that took care of the issue. Now if you here They Or Back. Or GET OUT . You probably have a bigger problem.

I'm not too optimistic here - I can't help but wonder what the heck is going on. The Diagnostics Page (History tab) clearly shows me when the problem is occuring. Both the "signal" and "internal resets" numbers will climb with each "signal blackout" (or whatever is happening).

I moved the Hopper to a completely different part of my house and did a "factory reset" on Friday afternoon. So far, it has been working flawlessly. But I did a reset a few weeks ago and got more than 3 full days before the problem returned. So I'm not holding my breath. Regardless of whether or not the problem does return, I'll need to find some answers.

For reasons I've already talked about, I'm not convinced that it is a problem with home wiring, circuits, etc, but until I can pay to have someone come out and look everything over, I can't totally rule that out either. I'm less concerned about being "right" and more interested in fixing this. I wish I could find someone else who has had this exact issue.

So - 3 days (again) and counting......
 
I don't think i'll convince Dish of that - they've had 2 techs out, replaced everything INCLUDING the H3 (this is the 3rd one now for essentially the same issue)...... DANG!! I'm really at a loss
Did "everything" include replacing the coax cables (water in the connectors) and also checking the dish pointing/alignment to be sure there's no intermittent obstruction to the incoming satellite signals (tree limbs/leaves that only get in the way when the wind blows, etc? Possibly the first guy who installed the dish wasn't paying attention and put it in a bad spot) - I have seen weird reboots happen on occasion if signal is lost for more than a few seconds.
 
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Did "everything" include replacing the coax cables (water in the connectors) and also checking the dish pointing/alignment to be sure there's no intermittent obstruction to the incoming satellite signals (tree limbs/leaves that only get in the way when the wind blows, etc? Possibly the first guy who installed the dish wasn't paying attention and put it in a bad spot) - I have seen weird reboots happen on occasion if signal is lost for more than a few seconds.
I've seen it also where signal loss can cause Hopper 3 reboots
 
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A new Dish (and all wiring, hubs, etc) was installed on the opposite end of my roof (closer to where the Hopper is hooked up). So, as far as I can tell, everything was replaced. This was just like a brand new install from scratch. We are "out in the open" so there are no obstructions in the direction that the dish is pointed. The 2nd tech then replaced the H3 with another remanufactured unit.
 
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I've seen it also where signal loss can cause Hopper 3 reboots
That seems to be the case, as when the pic drops out (Closed Captioning Text continues to update), it then changes channels, and finally after 30 secs to a minute, the Hopper reboots itself. I could be wrong, but I'm guessing that "Signal" listed under "Notifications" (on the "Diagnostics" page) refers to signal loss? The numbers for that and the "Internal" item under the "Resets" list were up to almost 80 each before I did a Factory Reset. So far, (since Friday afternoon). I still have "0" for both.
 
So, how new is the cabling in the house? Did the tech run new cable form the Solo Hub to the receiver or did he use pre-run wire? Could there be RG59 in the walls? A bad barrel at the wall plate? A loose or poorly seated or cheap crimp connector behind the wall plate?
 
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So, how new is the cabling in the house? Did the tech run new cable form the Solo Hub to the receiver or did he use pre-run wire? Could there be RG59 in the walls? A bad barrel at the wall plate? A loose or poorly seated or cheap crimp connector behind the wall plate?
I think everything is new - The tech installed a new dish right just outside the room where the Hopper is installed, so all cabling between the dish/hub/and inside jack is new. I'm not positive about the wall jack - it may well be the original, which I think was part of the cable TV the prior owners installed (sometime before 2005), UNLESS the jack itself was replaced when the Hopper was installed back in 2016. However - I connected a 50' length of RG6 (for troubleshooting purposes) to that jack so I could move the Hopper out to my Front Room and It's been almost 4 days now without a single burp.
 
Tomorrow will be 1 full week without a single glitch - no Signal Notifications, no Internal Resets, no segmented recordings since last Friday...... there are 2 things that are different today as opposed to then:
1) Power is plugged in to a different location (outlet & circuit)
2) Hopper is connected to a different TV
Unless there is something else I've missed, I'm thinking it has to be one of those.
I'd almost be tempted to leave it this way but I didn't realize how much the Wireless Joey sucked! For the swap, I ended up with the WJ in my room and it's SOOOOO darn slow.
This still could all be for nothing, as I thought I had isolated the problem a few weeks ago when I went several days with no problems, only to have it reappear with a vengeance on the 3rd or 4th day.
Dang!
 
It seems like every time I'm on the verge of solving a problem, I just end up "trading" the old one(s) in for a new......
After spending a good month or more researching this issue, and coming very close to cancelling my service (not because of anything Dish has done wrong), i FINALLY have landed on something. BTW - I remembered an electrical contractor that I knew while I was Building Manager for a large church in this area. This company installed a standby generator back 5 years or so ago, and was already somewhat familiar with my house and it's power and wiring. Long story short, they looked it over and found nothing that would cause my problem. So - before I threw in the towel, I thought of a couple more things to try, I decided to disable my Samsung TV's built-in WiFi. Unbelievable - the issue that by this time had become so frequent that it was virtually impossible to get thru even a 30 minute program (without several interruptions or multiple LOS) was immediately gone. I turned the WiFi back on and the problem returned almost immediately. I went back and forth several times, and there was no doubt whatsoever.
So now, I have a new problem (and question): Does it sound like I am dealing with a something to do with the TV's WiFi circuitry, or with my home WiFi system itself? I guess I don't know enough about how this thing works to have a clue how any of this can cause my satellite signal to come-and-go, multiple times an hour. Any ideas? Anyone? Thanks!
 
Wire the TV, leave the Wi-Fi off, and think no more of it. It’s the TV Wi-Fi.
Go NAVY! Thanks - that was going to be my next thing to try. I asked mainly because I was wondering if it sounded like the TV itself. I only purchased this thing last July (and have an extended 4 year warranty on it)...... it worked fine for about 7 months, so it wasn't an "inherited" issue. But if this is indeed the only problem I ever have with the TV, I don't know that I want the hassle of having to take a 65" off of the wall and bring it somewhere for service. Thinking no more of it sounds a heck of a lot easier!
 
Go NAVY! Thanks - that was going to be my next thing to try. I asked mainly because I was wondering if it sounded like the TV itself. I only purchased this thing last July (and have an extended 4 year warranty on it)...... it worked fine for about 7 months, so it wasn't an "inherited" issue. But if this is indeed the only problem I ever have with the TV, I don't know that I want the hassle of having to take a 65" off of the wall and bring it somewhere for service. Thinking no more of it sounds a heck of a lot easier!

FWIW: I would disconnect the TV from your home network altogether. SmartTVs just spy on you anyway. If you want to stream stuff get a streaming box (Roku, FireTV, AppleTV, etc.), IMHO of course.
 
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