Just a guess so people don't shop around or inquiry about discounts. Same reason companies love paperless billing(besides the savings of printing and mailing) people tend to not monitor bills or notice increases.
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HOPPER 3 UPGRADES
- Thread starter Scott Greczkowski
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Mine are mostly HD movies recorded during free premium previews. I don't tend to archive TV or SD except a few documentary series off AHC. They take even less time.
Regarding you're 118 issue, it might have something to do with this? Hopper 3 for International Programming
I called on release day and got my install setup for today 02/5/16. Tech estimated arrival was 11:45-12:30 and he rang the doorbell at 10:15. I unhooked everything while he was in the attic swapping the DUO hub for the solo. He came brought the equipment in and got started setting up the H3. I unpacked the Joeys and got them all in place for him. Once the Hopper was on live TV we both started plugging in the Joeys and setting them up. All in all everything went super smooth and is running great so far. Tech wanted to take the remotes (he was in house) But a free Xbox 1 and 20 bucks I got to keep all 5.
I wonder if the tech will replace my dish. I have a DPP 44 and I am in California. Any ideas? Thanks!
Can someone explain what Dish means by low beam? I am in an area with very tall Fir trees incl on my acre lot with very little clearings, current side by side 2 dish install (Hopper 2) mounted high side of house aimed over some tall Fir trees (installed by Dish). Just trying to understand when Dish flags an account as low beam is due to what part of Country they live in? Or can be very house-specific and flagged by installer when my 2 sat dishes were installed years ago?
But does that make me considered a "low beam area" that Dish has my account flagged as? Just trying to understand what exactly constitutes a "low beam area" re: Dish flagging accounts as not being able to get the Hopper 3, at least until they come up with a solution.
I checked my sat reception readings with my Hopper 2 and they're in the low to mid 50s which sounds low to me...
The DPP44 will have to go. The Dish will be replaced if it's not a 1000.2. The LNB will always be replaced.
My guess is the tech is going to do what is necessary to make it work....
My guess is the tech is going to do what is necessary to make it work....
Yea obviously
. I was just asking to get a heads up. Anyways, he said they are going to put up another dish for internationals.
Thanks, the other question I meant to ask was can you still watch tv with the transfer happening? I don't think I would be restoring as I'm more concerned with the transferring to the EHD as I don't know for sure if the installer will let me keep the H3 after the install on Sunday. I always thought the DISH boxes need a signal from the coax before the box can be used, I'm sure one can disconnect the cable while the box is powered on and it will work but it seems if I run into a power outage, the box won't work as it will be trying to do the bootup sequence.
I normally watch the HD so don't have anything HD on the box so all my recordings are SD which are always 1.5-2hrs long which is what is taking up the space of my box as there were times when I went on a trip during the last 3 years and just let it record but haven't watch the content yet. I don't actually have a problem with 118, I was just wondering why I had a DPP 500+ LNB and Dish 500+ antenna when my DISH service and Hopper was installed on 11/17/2012, I kept thinking it was 11/16/2012 for some reason until I looked at my e-mails from dish earlier today. I do have Jadeworld Chinese Cantonese package which is on 118 so hopefully they will get it working on Sunday when the H3 gets installed since I assume the H3 install will work as DISH DIRT scheduled the install.
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It's seem like that used to be the case, that if you didn't have signal you couldn't get to your recording, I was worried about that myself.
But it works fine. I had no issues transferring my recordings to me EHD, after the H# was install and my ld H2 was no longer connected.
When the old Hopper says looking for signal. Just hit cancel, Menu or DVR ( I don't remember which) and then you can get into the menu and watch or transfer your recordings.
I know as far back as the 522, you can hit a button (Menu, Cancel, ???) - maybe it was simply the "DVR" button - and access your recordings without a satellite signal. On the Hopper, I know for certain that hitting "Menu" works. From the 'menu', just select "DVR" from the items.
Yes. I don't recall what the buttons on-screen read, but one of them effectively puts the transfer progress window in the background or something.
You can transfer and watch TV at the same tme. The transfer will continue in the background and a message will appear when it's done. You can also transfer from your old box even if it's not connected to the dish. I just did that during my H3 install. When you power it up it'll say looking for signal. Just press Menu or Dvr.
Thanks guys, I noticed always takes time on startup, didn't know there was a way to bypass it. Just connected a 2TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD using a Thermaltake USB 3.0 Hard Drive Docking Station and will begin the transfers now, hopefully I'll finish before Sunday's install of the H3.
Update:
It seems like the drive didn't get detected even though I plugged in the USB cable to the hopper before I powered on the Docking Station so I had to basically unplugged/plugged the USB cable on the Hopper before I got prompted to format. I didn't see any options for Live TV so I hit View Live TV on the remote which hopefully formats in the background, I didn't see anything about the format being completed except when I went to Menu -> Settings -> External Hard Drive, it did show External Hard Drive 1 or something like that with the capacity at 1.8TB and the same unused capacity. Tried transferring a bunch of recordings and did View Live TV which had a estimated time of 1.5 hours for I think 12 hours of SD recordings, it seemed to have completed in 30 minutes or so. Hopefully the drive completely formatted because I think it was only 15 minutes or so before I checked and the drive was in the External Hard Drive section with the capacity and free space so it seems the Hopper 2K reserves 600GB of space that is unavailable to the user.
Update:
It seems like the drive didn't get detected even though I plugged in the USB cable to the hopper before I powered on the Docking Station so I had to basically unplugged/plugged the USB cable on the Hopper before I got prompted to format. I didn't see any options for Live TV so I hit View Live TV on the remote which hopefully formats in the background, I didn't see anything about the format being completed except when I went to Menu -> Settings -> External Hard Drive, it did show External Hard Drive 1 or something like that with the capacity at 1.8TB and the same unused capacity. Tried transferring a bunch of recordings and did View Live TV which had a estimated time of 1.5 hours for I think 12 hours of SD recordings, it seemed to have completed in 30 minutes or so. Hopefully the drive completely formatted because I think it was only 15 minutes or so before I checked and the drive was in the External Hard Drive section with the capacity and free space so it seems the Hopper 2K reserves 600GB of space that is unavailable to the user.
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First time poster, but 12-year Dish off-contract customer. I want to upgrade from my 722s and 612 to Hopper 3, with requisite number of Joeys (probably 3, since I use both TV1 & TV2 from the 722.
My 612 is installed in my office, which was added onto the garage is a one-story grade level below the house. My router is in office, and the signal reaches only part of the House, so wondering how everything will work.
I am getting bombarded with offers for new service, such as $250 Visa Gift card, free HBO & Cinamax, and free Netflix for a year. I value those benefits around $500.
Should I sign up for new service in my wife's last name, and perhaps add a used 722 to my account from ebay before cancelling my account, so I can watch my EHD programs?
Also, my EHDs are USB 2.0. Should I replace with 3.0 to speed up transfers?
Appreciate your insights, and actually enjoyed reading 90 pages of discourse!
--Scott in Tucson AZ
It all depends on how much money is saved in the amount of time. Can you actually install new service in another name while already having service at the same address under another name? I also got the free Netflix for one year after I posted the previous post, not sure how much Netflix costs per month. Speaking about which, does anyone know where to find offers for Comcast Internet only plans? Also, does anyone know the answer to this one. I noticed that UltraHD/4K requires 25Mbps for internet for Netflix but HDMI Cables are like 18GBps, how much bandwidth does HDMI really use for UltraHD/4K since I can't see how one medium, it's 25Mbps and then on another, it's 15-18Gbps. As far as USB 3.0, I don't think it's going to be any faster as the interface is not what's causing the bottleneck, but rather it's the encryption process.
You can find comcast internet only plans on their website I believe, although its hard to find because they want you to bundle everything. I believe in the fine print of some of the offers they also list stand alone prices. Also, internet only plans are usually higher than bundle pricing, just an FYI.
In regards to HDMI, HDMI 1.4 was able to handle 4K content at 24 or 30 fps with a bandwidth of 10 gbps, while limiting UHD content to 8 bit color. HDMI 2.0 increased that to 50/60 FPS and 18 gbps, and remember its a GIGAbit connection, so it will be able to handle all speeds up to its limit. Netflix requires a minimum of 25 mbps, so either a 1.4 or 2.0 cable will be fine. Here is some more info: http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_2_0/index.aspx
