I was thinking about purchasing a 120cm dish for C Band. Was wanting to know if anyone else has tried this size dish for C Band and what their experiences have been with signal quality and reception. Is this dish big enough to get most transponders?
How Good Is A 120cm Dish For C Band
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As was explained to me when I was a newbie. Its depends on a few things.
1. Power of the down link
2. Side lobe interference from another satellite.
3. Error correction employed.
As meinename posted to me when I started.
http://www.satelliteguys.us/attachment.php?attachmentid=35144&d=1237194347
That said there is one satellite that you will prob have no trouble getting with the 4 foot dish you describe, that is NHK World at 58 West.
4041 H 26590 1/2
Try that, good luck, and have fun.
1. Power of the down link
2. Side lobe interference from another satellite.
3. Error correction employed.
As meinename posted to me when I started.
http://www.satelliteguys.us/attachment.php?attachmentid=35144&d=1237194347
That said there is one satellite that you will prob have no trouble getting with the 4 foot dish you describe, that is NHK World at 58 West.
4041 H 26590 1/2
Try that, good luck, and have fun.
If you already have a 4-foot dish, by all means play with it.
If you're going to spend money, consider a 6-foot (or larger) dish.
The forum has lots of posts by members experimenting with them.
We usually call 'em: mini buds
"most"? no. "some"? sure.
Do you know what particular signals, satellites, programs, etc. you're looking for?
Hello Anole. I currently don't have a 4dt dish. I thought that I would ask here about the quality of the dish for use With C Band, before purchasing one. A 6ft dish sounds like it might be a better choice though. I already have an 8 ft mesh C Band dish along with a 4dtv receiver, but it's been awhile since I have used it, and the dish is all rusty with weeds and vines covered over it. The vines have even grown through the holes in the mesh, and the actuator arm is stuck. So, I thought that it would be a good idea to upgrade and purchase a new one. It's been awhile since I've used a C Band system , but I do occassionally look at the different C Band sats on lyngsat. I'm mostly fimilar with KU Band . Any advice is welcome. Thanks
- lite at the end of the tunnel
Why don't you post some pictures of the existing dish?
The guys here can help and encourage you to get it cleaned up and working again.
You're already well ahead of most who want to get on C-band - you've got a nice sized BUD! - :up
A few dollars worth of suitable parts, and you will be getting C-band far better than on a 4' or 6' dish.
Why don't you post some pictures of the existing dish?
The guys here can help and encourage you to get it cleaned up and working again.
You're already well ahead of most who want to get on C-band - you've got a nice sized BUD! - :up
A few dollars worth of suitable parts, and you will be getting C-band far better than on a 4' or 6' dish.
I tried C-Band on a 4 footer a while back and posted a review of it
http://www.satelliteguys.us/fta-mpe...cal-scalar-ring-ws1247-120cm-offset-dish.html
I use a 6 footer normally. Also the shipping on the 6 footers is a lot less than a 4 footer since the 6 footer is in pieces and the 4 footer is one big piece
http://www.satelliteguys.us/fta-mpe...cal-scalar-ring-ws1247-120cm-offset-dish.html
I use a 6 footer normally. Also the shipping on the 6 footers is a lot less than a 4 footer since the 6 footer is in pieces and the 4 footer is one big piece
A 1.2m reflector is great for Ku-band.
:up i've got a 1.2 with a c-band lnb on it. It is okay to play with, but doen't really have enough signal to keep lock all the time on the TPs I want to see. frequent adjustment is the rule. 10 footer going up in the spring.
GL, Eric
It will get you certain c band channels but at best will be a severly compromised system. 6 foot is the bare minimum I would ever consider. You can get 99% of the sky with a well tuned 7.5' dish. A 10' will be king of tight fec dvb s2
My 4 foot mini-BUD is useful for SOME sports feeds ( which is what I use it for ), otherwise I switch out a Ku lnbf on it, and use it for Ku , too. Don't buy a 4 footer expecting anything but the strongest C-band signals. I'm happy that I have one, but it's not REAL C-band.
Unless the C band dish you need to rework is totally trashed it will out perform a 4 footer in both gain and selectivity hands down. The mesh will have to be pretty messed up and in a lot of places to be noticable to a C band signal, and it will still have a tighter beamwidth regardless. Another plus is that it is (or should still be if it has been undisturbed) properly aligned to track the arc.
One less thing to have to do.................lol
Cut the vines and let them die before you attempt to pull them out. They will decay and break loose easier with less potential damage to the mesh.
I've seen some pretty cruddy looking jacks still run after sitting idle for years. Dont count it out until you've tested it. If you dont have an old analog IRD or some other conventional antenna moving source, a 12v auto, lawn tractor, etc battery will move a working jack, all beit slowly.
At the risk of stating the obvious, reversing the polarity will reverse the direction of movement. If you can't get a response, check the mechanical limit switch for proper operation.
Be sure to use the "heavier" gauge wires (appx #16) for powering the motor. The smaller ones (appx#22) are for the reed switch (pulse) and applying the driving voltage across the switch will destroy it. Even if the jack is "frozen" you still may be able to free it up with some effort.
Once you can determine that the ol' gal is service worthy you can invest in repair/replacement parts as necessary.
Good luck, keep us posted.
One less thing to have to do.................lol
Cut the vines and let them die before you attempt to pull them out. They will decay and break loose easier with less potential damage to the mesh.
I've seen some pretty cruddy looking jacks still run after sitting idle for years. Dont count it out until you've tested it. If you dont have an old analog IRD or some other conventional antenna moving source, a 12v auto, lawn tractor, etc battery will move a working jack, all beit slowly.
At the risk of stating the obvious, reversing the polarity will reverse the direction of movement. If you can't get a response, check the mechanical limit switch for proper operation.
Be sure to use the "heavier" gauge wires (appx #16) for powering the motor. The smaller ones (appx#22) are for the reed switch (pulse) and applying the driving voltage across the switch will destroy it. Even if the jack is "frozen" you still may be able to free it up with some effort.
Once you can determine that the ol' gal is service worthy you can invest in repair/replacement parts as necessary.
Good luck, keep us posted.
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