Just a basic UPS suggestion?

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Well since I was only worried about powering the DVR and the SWiM power deal I got the smaller one:

?365-joule rating
Absorbs a high quantity of energy for improved performance.
?550VA (330W) capacity with up to 65 minutes of battery backup time

That should be enough power for just the DVR/SWiM and little deca inet bridge shouldn't it or am I screwed and need more? Like I said I really am just trying to avoid reboot when the power fluctuates for a sec, not to run it for 30 minutes or anything
 
Well since I was only worried about powering the DVR and the SWiM power deal I got the smaller one:

?365-joule rating
Absorbs a high quantity of energy for improved performance.
?550VA (330W) capacity with up to 65 minutes of battery backup time

That should be enough power for just the DVR/SWiM and little deca inet bridge shouldn't it or am I screwed and need more? Like I said I really am just trying to avoid reboot when the power fluctuates for a sec, not to run it for 30 minutes or anything

Well, I did find out that the recvrs take less wattage than I thought.
The HR24 in rated at 55w ... If your now concerned about your TV, then I would think you would be fine.

I want to put my HR24 (55w) with my ehd (maybe 25 ? or less) and my Pioneer Elite 60" Plasma (why would I NOT want to protect my TV ?) (525w) ....

So, I'm looking for something that will handle 6-800 watts.

I would like to go with a Tripp Lite or a APC, can't seem to find TRIPP LITE in town and available at least large enough.

Costco has one that is 500w which in my case, not enough.

Currently looking at this one. Just trying to come up with the cash somewhere.

APC - 1300VA Battery Back-Up System - Black - BX1300G
 
The directv boxes are under 30 watts each to run. This chart doesnt have any numbers for the HR24 but I'm sort of surprised to hear it takes so much more power than the HR23...

http://www.energystar.gov/ia/products/prod_lists/set_top_boxes_prod_list.pdf

A kill-a-watt meter for $15ish dollars is an awfully nice tool to have.

Why would you want a tv on battery backup? It'd eat the battery pretty darn fast, even with a big ups. I'd think you'd want to maximize the battery time on the dvr/ehd so you wouldnt miss recording any shows while the power was out.
 
The directv boxes are under 30 watts each to run. This chart doesnt have any numbers for the HR24 but I'm sort of surprised to hear it takes so much more power than the HR23...

http://www.energystar.gov/ia/products/prod_lists/set_top_boxes_prod_list.pdf

A kill-a-watt meter for $15ish dollars is an awfully nice tool to have.

Why would you want a tv on battery backup? It'd eat the battery pretty darn fast, even with a big ups. I'd think you'd want to maximize the battery time on the dvr/ehd so you wouldnt miss recording any shows while the power was out.

I guess I can put the TV on the non battery side of things, I just figured the more on the back up the better .... I guess I was thinking a battery back up would be better than just a standard outlet.

The HR24 runs 55 watts, at least thats what it says on the back of the box.
 
Whats on the box is generally the size of the power supply/maximum possible draw, not the actual running power requirements.

But to balance that off, the ratings on most UPS's arent for steady state and are a little overrated.

The HR21-23 seem to be in the 22-28 range according to that energy star chart. If the HR24 actually draws 55 watts in its run state, that'd be a travesty. At my tier 3 electric rates that'd cost me almost $400 a year in electricity to run. :p
 
I just found a spec sheet for the HR24 that says 24-25 watts.

Well, what do you believe, the report or what is posted on the back of the box ?
If you can't go by the back of the box whats the point in putting the rating on it ?

The 25w is about what your showing the rest of them to run at.

I saw something this morning on the breakdown of the HR24 on the other site that said Power, it was comparing the 23 with the 24.
I have to look at it again to see what it said.

Here what I found :

Comparison: HR24 vs HR23
Power Energy Star Compliant, 24-25 watts
HR21-200 with no DECA: 28 watts, with DECA: 33-34 watts


but like I said, on the back of the unit itself it says 55 watts

I agree, 25 is better yet, but makes ya wonder.
 
Once again, what is on the back of the box is the max draw possible by the power supply, not what the electronics inside are going to draw from it.

If you go wild and blow the $15 on a kill-a-watt, you can see actual power usage.

My computer has a 350 watt power supply and a 350 watt sticker on the back. It uses 60-70 watts at idle and 90 at peak. My tv has a 500 watt sticker on the back but uses 94-120 watts on average.

The sticker doesnt mean a darn thing!
 
I guess I can put the TV on the non battery side of things, I just figured the more on the back up the better .... I guess I was thinking a battery back up would be better than just a standard outlet.

The HR24 runs 55 watts, at least thats what it says on the back of the box.

I wouldn't power the TV even thru the surge protect only connection. It still affects the overall wattage going thru the device - I lazily did that with another TV and the APC unit overloaded (it wasn't ruined but the power overload went on). I would therefore keep the TV (actually monitor in my case) on a different surge protector device.
 
Interesting. We have a KilloWatt toy, roomy picked it up for curiosities sake. Anyway he wanted to see and our HR 22 seemed to be reading at 50. We have the additional AM-21 tho and I'd wondered if that wasn't adding to things. He said it didn't seem to drop its consumption when he turned the power switch off and the AM was the only thing I could think of unless the box is somehow pulling/sending some power to the dish or because of being networked.
 
Yep the am21 adds a power draw of ~20-something watts, and the deca and swm power inserters also add a small load, maybe 10-15 watts.
 
Once again, what is on the back of the box is the max draw possible by the power supply, not what the electronics inside are going to draw from it.

If you go wild and blow the $15 on a kill-a-watt, you can see actual power usage.

My computer has a 350 watt power supply and a 350 watt sticker on the back. It uses 60-70 watts at idle and 90 at peak. My tv has a 500 watt sticker on the back but uses 94-120 watts on average.

The sticker doesnt mean a darn thing!

Hmmmm,

Thats good, I've decide to NOT get the high dollar battery back up and get a good surge instead
 
I recall that on my Kill-A-Watt meter, my HR20-700 was ~40 watts. The HR24-500 was ~25 watts (I don't remember if the AM21 was connected or not). I have the HR24 + AM21 on a APC 550 VA UPS and my HR21 on a 650 VA UPS (the HR20 was on a 1500 VA Tripplite but is no longer in service). The outages here seem to be either a few seconds or several hours.
 
I recall that on my Kill-A-Watt meter, my HR20-700 was ~40 watts. The HR24-500 was ~25 watts (I don't remember if the AM21 was connected or not). I have the HR24 + AM21 on a APC 550 VA UPS and my HR21 on a 650 VA UPS (the HR20 was on a 1500 VA Tripplite but is no longer in service). The outages here seem to be either a few seconds or several hours.

Your Tripplite is no longer working ?
How did you like it before it passed away ?
Was it worth it ?
I have been looking at a 1500va one as well.

Of late I'm deciding to not put the TV on one and I can get by wit a much smaller one.
 
Your Tripplite is no longer working ?
How did you like it before it passed away ?
Was it worth it ?
I have been looking at a 1500va one as well.

Of late I'm deciding to not put the TV on one and I can get by wit a much smaller one.

It's still working fine, but the battery doesn't seem to hold up as long as when it was new 5 or 6 years ago. I have two of them, both powering computers (the older model which Costco sold). They are worth the $100 I paid for each. I have the TVs on the surge protector ports of my APC UPSs.
 
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