Need Repair for 9242 and 6131 Satellite Receivers

[Gary K]

I have a 9242 and 6131. The 6131 has an external hard drive. Both, unfortunately, are showing BOOTSTRAP errors and will not get past the first bar. The receivers are both more than 10 years old.

I have been reading that this may likely be related to capacitors gone bad. I need to find someone to repair these two units. There is a complicating issue which I can discuss with whoever I find to do the repairs. But reaching out to Dish Network is not an option.

I am in Bergen County in New Jersey. If anyone can point me in the right direction for a 3rd party repair service qualified to provide this service I would be most appreciative. I can ship the receivers to the right party, but it would be enormously advantageous to find someone local if possible. I am completely incompetent with tools and soldering and anything of the kind, so the do-it-yourself approach is not viable for me.

Any recommendations would be HUGELY welcome and appreciated.

Thanks every so much!

Gary

 

[(((Garyd)))]

I have a 9242 and 6131. The 6131 has an external hard drive. Both, unfortunately, are showing BOOTSTRAP errors and will not get past the first bar. The receivers are both more than 10 years old.

I have been reading that this may likely be related to capacitors gone bad. I need to find someone to repair these two units. There is a complicating issue which I can discuss with whoever I find to do the repairs. But reaching out to Dish Network is not an option.

I am in Bergen County in New Jersey. If anyone can point me in the right direction for a 3rd party repair service qualified to provide this service I would be most appreciative. I can ship the receivers to the right party, but it would be enormously advantageous to find someone local if possible. I am completely incompetent with tools and soldering and anything of the kind, so the do-it-yourself approach is not viable for me.

Any recommendations would be HUGELY welcome and appreciated.

Thanks every so much!

Gary

Call me I will teach you the needed tricks to repair them your odds are 60-to 40 you can do it 203 232 8888 all calls must be after 1PM
Gary Diamond

 

[(((Garyd)))]

Bell TV 9242 HD PVR Discussion thread

This discussion thread is for owners to discuss the new ExpressVu HD PVR when it becomes available. I will update this thread when we have specs and details. Any posts discussing when it will be available or from NON-owners will be deleted and the poster will receive an infraction. Update...

www.digitalhome.ca

 

[(((Garyd)))]

I can show how to find the exact bad caps, and teach you how to replace without removing the main board from the receiver I used to repair 5-10 C-band receivers a week and get them from all over the US it beat working outside 99% is common sense when its bad caps, which is 75% of repairs

 

[detuch254]

I know this is off topic but I too am in bergen county NJ and never received Bell reliably here. OP, if you don't mind answering, what is your setup for 82/91 Sats and what size dish are you using? I tried a 39 inch for 82 west and the signal was around 55-70 at best.

 

[Gary K]

The signal is a little spotty but enough to pull in. I have two 39 inch dishes - Weingard - and 82 is tough, 91 is easier.

 

[detuch254]

Gotcha. I am using a 9241 and mine also had capacitor issues in the past. I bought a few online and replaced them easy.

 

[Gary K]

I would destroy my device. I'm a complete moron when it comes to anything of this nature. I need to find a professional to do it for me. In the meantime, I have a workaround which is really good. Hint : NPV / EBIF.

 

[Gary K]

I can show how to find the exact bad caps, and teach you how to replace without removing the main board from the receiver I used to repair 5-10 C-band receivers a week and get them from all over the US it beat working outside 99% is common sense when its bad caps, which is 75% of repairs

L'Shanah Tovah. I will reach out.

 

[Almighty1]

I can show how to find the exact bad caps, and teach you how to replace without removing the main board from the receiver I used to repair 5-10 C-band receivers a week and get them from all over the US it beat working outside 99% is common sense when its bad caps, which is 75% of repairs

I would like to learn how to find the exact bad caps as well as usually i replace everything in a electronics component unless someone mentioned the specific ones like in a Panamax 1000+ Surge Protector and then replace them with Japanese uality capacitors like Panasonic, Nichicon, Rubycon, United Chemi-Con, Nippon Chemi-Con.

 

[(((Garyd)))]

I would like to learn how to find the exact bad caps as well as usually i replace everything in a electronics component unless someone mentioned the specific ones like in a Panamax 1000+ Surge Protector and then replace them with Japanese uality capacitors like Panasonic, Nichicon, Rubycon, United Chemi-Con, Nippon Chemi-Con.

Call me 203 232 8888

 

[Almighty1]

Call me 203 232 8888

Might be better if it was in writing to reference for myself and others in the future as verbally, one might not get all things down correctly while in written, it will also be beneficial to others too when they look at the post later.

 

[(((Garyd)))]

Might be better if it was in writing to reference for myself and others in the future as verbally, one might not get all things down correctly while in written, it will also be beneficial to others too when they look at the post later.

I'm bad at doing it that way unless you open the receiver up and take very high-quality pictures of everything you see You're asking a doctor to operate on your body without seeing X-rays first, let's see what you have.

Don't do it as an attachment, use the insert image, go very high resolution, with a flash, or take it outside in full sunlight, I must see discoloration of the parts heat marks on the board even dust, all are clues it's like looking at footprints, knowing what to look for.

 

[(((Garyd)))]

DO YOU HAVE THIS BOARD IN YOURS?

 

[Almighty1]

I'm bad at doing it that way unless you open the receiver up and take very high-quality pictures of everything you see You're asking a doctor to operate on your body without seeing X-rays first, let's see what you have.

Don't do it as an attachment, use the insert image, go very high resolution, with a flash, or take it outside in full sunlight, I must see discoloration of the parts heat marks on the board even dust, all are clues it's like looking at footprints, knowing what to look for.

The Op is the one who actually has something that needs fixing. I do not have something that needs fixing yet so there would be no photos I can even provide as I am not asking about something that already gone bad but it's more for future reference like I know it's easy to tell the capacitors are leaking or swollen like those from the infamous capacitor plague from 1999-2007 that put many computer companies out of business including ABIT. So it's more asking what should I be looking for and obviously, I need something that actually has bad capacitors and also good capacitors that does not have the leaking or swollen symptoms as there are bad capacitors that have dried out. So I am not asking about something I have that has problems as I already fixed the ones with problems by replacing all the capacitors with new ones which works even better than the manufacturers fix being a PC Power & Cooling computer Power Supply which had a 7 year warranty and considered the best but it failed at 5 years and they fixed it which worked for another 5 years but my fix is still working after another 10 years and still going strong. I know what you mean about operating on a body without seeing X-rays first but remember there is no body available in my case, I am asking more on how to learn the skills for a future need when I do experience it so instead of replacing everything as I do not have the diagnostic tools to test the capacitors like some people do so I will need to either replace them all or figure out how to tell if they are bad and then look for suitable replacements and it's not just the Japanese brands but also finding something that has the same specs or better specs like 105C, hours rating, among other things from places like DigiKey and Mouser Electronics which means I will only be making one order and not only ordering a few and then replace it and it doesn't work, order again and replace the other ones as that would be costly in shipping costs at $5.00 per order as the quality capacitors are less than the shipping. Also, from what I have learned, one still needs to know how each of the capacitors is used in the circuit and if it is related to the power supply output or not as a power supply output capacitor is stressed more than a general purpose decoupling capacitor. If these are general purpose parts, then 105C general purpose parts from a good vendor should do fine and all one needs to look at is the V and the uF rating but if the capacitor is power supply output capacitor, then one has to match or exceed the impendence of the original part which may be harder without actually finding the spec sheet for the original capacitor in question.

For your other comment, I am not the one who has the problem as that question should be for the OP since he would be able to show you photos and from your photo, it's obvious that the big black capacitor on the left is bad but what about the other capacitors on the right hand side of that circuit board? How do you tell which ones have problems without it having something obvious like leaking, swollen? In better words, I am more trying to learn from someone else's examples of a device with issues so when I actually have a patient/device that fails, I will atleast know what to look for and know which capacitors to replace. And what you said is true, many electronics that fail can be fixed simply by replacing the capacitors a majority of the time unless some other part(s) failed as well which is the same reason many people find things people throw away and then fix it.

 

[(((Garyd)))]

The Op is the one who actually has something that needs fixing. I do not have something that needs fixing yet so there would be no photos I can even provide as I am not asking about something that already gone bad but it's more for future reference like I know it's easy to tell the capacitors are leaking or swollen like those from the infamous capacitor plague from 1999-2007 that put many computer companies out of business including ABIT. So it's more asking what should I be looking for and obviously, I need something that actually has bad capacitors and also good capacitors that does not have the leaking or swollen symptoms as there are bad capacitors that have dried out. So I am not asking about something I have that has problems as I already fixed the ones with problems by replacing all the capacitors with new ones which works even better than the manufacturers fix being a PC Power & Cooling computer Power Supply which had a 7 year warranty and considered the best but it failed at 5 years and they fixed it which worked for another 5 years but my fix is still working after another 10 years and still going strong. I know what you mean about operating on a body without seeing X-rays first but remember there is no body available in my case, I am asking more on how to learn the skills for a future need when I do experience it so instead of replacing everything as I do not have the diagnostic tools to test the capacitors like some people do so I will need to either replace them all or figure out how to tell if they are bad and then look for suitable replacements and it's not just the Japanese brands but also finding something that has the same specs or better specs like 105C, hours rating, among other things from places like DigiKey and Mouser Electronics which means I will only be making one order and not only ordering a few and then replace it and it doesn't work, order again and replace the other ones as that would be costly in shipping costs at $5.00 per order as the quality capacitors are less than the shipping. Also, from what I have learned, one still needs to know how each of the capacitors is used in the circuit and if it is related to the power supply output or not as a power supply output capacitor is stressed more than a general purpose decoupling capacitor. If these are general purpose parts, then 105C general purpose parts from a good vendor should do fine and all one needs to look at is the V and the uF rating but if the capacitor is power supply output capacitor, then one has to match or exceed the impendence of the original part which may be harder without actually finding the spec sheet for the original capacitor in question.

For your other comment, I am not the one who has the problem as that question should be for the OP since he would be able to show you photos and from your photo, it's obvious that the big black capacitor on the left is bad but what about the other capacitors on the right hand side of that circuit board? How do you tell which ones have problems without it having something obvious like leaking, swollen? In better words, I am more trying to learn from someone else's examples of a device with issues so when I actually have a patient/device that fails, I will atleast know what to look for and know which capacitors to replace. And what you said is true, many electronics that fail can be fixed simply by replacing the capacitors a majority of the time unless some other part(s) failed as well which is the same reason many people find things people throw away and then fix it.

Well, when your eyes can not see it, you use logic most caps near heat sources die first they dry out not always show signs of being bad.

So while the unit is under power and you see it dead or acting up by not doing what its supposed to do you trick it.

With heat and with cold, if you don't have a good heat gun with a narrow tip use a hair dryer around the heat sink areas, about 3 seconds then wait another 15 seconds if needed unplug power reboot it may come back to life or the bad function work again for a minute then die as the device cools down

but that is with dry caps, what about shorted ones or even shorted transistors or chips well then the same trick can work on all parts with cold spray cheap cold spray can be made by taking dust cleaner turn the can upside down once you freeze the whole board wait 30 seconds if it comes back great also reboot great

now in either case if you got something working divide the board in half to find out which side has the issue, the divide again in the end you may need to even use a solder iron to heat the cap or a wand of cold spray to narrow down the exact part this trick works on cold solder joints too but there is one more trick

The trick is pressure if you have a bad solder joint use plastic or wood and press on the board if it comes back to life press less until you barley touch the part and it kicks back to life

I have fixed a lot of crap without knowing what is in it

another trick on a dead unit is to put a ohm meter on the power cord it should never read fully open or shorted open look for fuses, many times they don't look like fuses a short means a bad bad diode bridge or diode in the power supply check each diode one is shorted

Now how to replace a bad part with muti layer boards without unsoldering the part because the odds it will never work you must cut it apart and leave the wires from the part intack and solder a new part to what is left connected to the board

 

[Almighty1]

Well, when your eyes can not see it, you use logic most caps near heat sources die first they dry out not always show signs of being bad.

So while the unit is under power and you see it dead or acting up by not doing what its supposed to do you trick it.

With heat and with cold, if you don't have a good heat gun with a narrow tip use a hair dryer around the heat sink areas, about 3 seconds then wait another 15 seconds if needed unplug power reboot it may come back to life or the bad function work again for a minute then die as the device cools down

but that is with dry caps, what about shorted ones or even shorted transistors or chips well then the same trick can work on all parts with cold spray cheap cold spray can be made by taking dust cleaner turn the can upside down once you freeze the whole board wait 30 seconds if it comes back great also reboot great

now in either case if you got something working divide the board in half to find out which side has the issue, the divide again in the end you may need to even use a solder iron to heat the cap or a wand of cold spray to narrow down the exact part this trick works on cold solder joints too but there is one more trick

The trick is pressure if you have a bad solder joint use plastic or wood and press on the board if it comes back to life press less until you barley touch the part and it kicks back to life

I have fixed a lot of crap without knowing what is in it

another trick on a dead unit is to put a ohm meter on the power cord it should never read fully open or shorted open look for fuses, many times they don't look like fuses a short means a bad bad diode bridge or diode in the power supply check each diode one is shorted

Now how to replace a bad part with muti layer boards without unsoldering the part because the odds it will never work you must cut it apart and leave the wires from the part intack and solder a new part to what is left connected to the board

Yes, logic would work sometimes and sometimes would not work as sometimes it can be just a defective capacitor that does not have the physical issues which are visible and also did not dry out as I have heard some people had capacitors that were new and then failed a certain time later.

The other part you mentioned are good ways for diagnostics since I thought when you replied to the OP originally, you said you can just tell visually which caps are bad.

Thanks for the tips as that's better than not having the tips.

There was a famous case in the 1990s where all Sony CRT TVs from Mexico will eventually fail all with the same problem, the tuner will not work and only show snow which is not a capacitor issue or a IC issue for that matter but more because of a cold soldering joint issue of the tuner.

I do have a current issue and this is on a 2000's PC running Windows XP 32bit, the only reason I still have it is WinFax Pro will not work on newer OSes but basically the issue is I have a nVideo GeForce FX5950 video card that drives a Silicon Graphics Inc 1600SW LCD monitor that requires a special 1600x1024 60hz video mode so I can't just replace it with another video card as it first needs to have that mode and another FX5950 is hard to find unless one was willing to pay a few hundred for one, it seems weird that usually old obsolete hardware is worthless but in this case, it seems to command a premium even for a used one. But anyways, the issue is the card works fine outside windows but once in windows, it will cause the entire monitor to go into standby so it can show video, standby for maybe 20-30 times before it is stable and then repeat again and then assuming the video is stable, there will be some areas of the screen randomly that the video will get messed up or garbled but the mouse cursor in that area will look correct but if that section is black, you will not see the mouse cursor and refrshing the desktop with F5 does not fix it, it is also causing static on the audio output of things while windows is running. What I noticed the power cable from the PC Power Supply when I opened the computer a few months later was disconnected from the video card probably from the vibration of all the fans as I do have 12 high speed 80mm fans. So what I am guessing is the video card's fan was not working as the power cable is to supply both additional power needed by the video card as well as to power the fans so either the GPU itself has the issue or other things. The capacitors might be the cause but it may be solid state caps or not as there are non-solid state capacitors that look visually similar to the solid state type. That one may be harder to figure out wat is wrong.

Another one is I have this countertop oven that when it works, it works after the problem started. Other times, as soon as you turn it on or after a few seconds or even a minute later, it will cause the GFCI outlet to trip and will continue to trip until you keep trying to turn it on with lots of patience until it no longer trips it and then it will work fine again which might be days or even months until the same problem happens again.

 

[(((Garyd)))]

Yes, logic would work sometimes and sometimes would not work as sometimes it can be just a defective capacitor that does not have the physical issues which are visible and also did not dry out as I have heard some people had capacitors that were new and then failed a certain time later.

The other part you mentioned are good ways for diagnostics since I thought when you replied to the OP originally, you said you can just tell visually which caps are bad.

Thanks for the tips as that's better than not having the tips.

There was a famous case in the 1990s where all Sony CRT TVs from Mexico will eventually fail all with the same problem, the tuner will not work and only show snow which is not a capacitor issue or a IC issue for that matter but more because of a cold soldering joint issue of the tuner.

I do have a current issue and this is on a 2000's PC running Windows XP 32bit, the only reason I still have it is WinFax Pro will not work on newer OSes but basically the issue is I have a nVideo GeForce FX5950 video card that drives a Silicon Graphics Inc 1600SW LCD monitor that requires a special 1600x1024 60hz video mode so I can't just replace it with another video card as it first needs to have that mode and another FX5950 is hard to find unless one was willing to pay a few hundred for one, it seems weird that usually old obsolete hardware is worthless but in this case, it seems to command a premium even for a used one. But anyways, the issue is the card works fine outside windows but once in windows, it will cause the entire monitor to go into standby so it can show video, standby for maybe 20-30 times before it is stable and then repeat again and then assuming the video is stable, there will be some areas of the screen randomly that the video will get messed up or garbled but the mouse cursor in that area will look correct but if that section is black, you will not see the mouse cursor and refrshing the desktop with F5 does not fix it, it is also causing static on the audio output of things while windows is running. What I noticed the power cable from the PC Power Supply when I opened the computer a few months later was disconnected from the video card probably from the vibration of all the fans as I do have 12 high speed 80mm fans. So what I am guessing is the video card's fan was not working as the power cable is to supply both additional power needed by the video card as well as to power the fans so either the GPU itself has the issue or other things. The capacitors might be the cause but it may be solid state caps or not as there are non-solid state capacitors that look visually similar to the solid state type. That one may be harder to figure out wat is wrong.

Another one is I have this countertop oven that when it works, it works after the problem started. Other times, as soon as you turn it on or after a few seconds or even a minute later, it will cause the GFCI outlet to trip and will continue to trip until you keep trying to turn it on with lots of patience until it no longer trips it and then it will work fine again which might be days or even months until the same problem happens again.

both items could be found using heat or cold spray cold fixes shorts for a short time, if not hard shorted, but goes shorted after power goes on

 

[Almighty1]

both items could be found using heat or cold spray cold fixes shorts for a short time, if not hard shorted, but goes shorted after power goes on

I know the oven is probably easier and one thing I forgot to mention with the video card, when it messes with the video, the computer actually freezes and I know if I use software to remotely access the computer, the video will also be bad because it would cause the video driver to crash and the actual computer will no longer have video without rebooting and if I tried a video test using software on the computer, the computer would completely freeze and not be responsive as in even the keyboard lights will be locked solid when hitting caps lock until atleast 30-45 minutes later before it's available to respond again. I have no experience with cold spray but will give that idea a shot when I have time assuming I am able to buy it online . The video card will be a bit hard as I have not figured out how to disassemble it so I actually have access to see the electronics as it has a plastic shield and a fan that I have not figured out how to remove yet. I guess if that fails, I'll just use one of the two older models of video cards I found earlier today that I used originally that worked back in the 2000's before replacing it with the one that currently failed. In any case, thanks again for your tips.

 

[(((Garyd)))]

I know the oven is probably easier and one thing I forgot to mention with the video card, when it messes with the video, the computer actually freezes and I know if I use software to remotely access the computer, the video will also be bad because it would cause the video driver to crash and the actual computer will no longer have video without rebooting and if I tried a video test using software on the computer, the computer would completely freeze and not be responsive as in even the keyboard lights will be locked solid when hitting caps lock until atleast 30-45 minutes later before it's available to respond again. I have no experience with cold spray but will give that idea a shot when I have time assuming I am able to buy it online . The video card will be a bit hard as I have not figured out how to disassemble it so I actually have access to see the electronics as it has a plastic shield and a fan that I have not figured out how to remove yet. I guess if that fails, I'll just use one of the two older models of video cards I found earlier today that I used originally that worked back in the 2000's before replacing it with the one that currently failed. In any case, thanks again for your tips.

The problem could be the computer power supply not being able to keep up with any extra load you I would use heat on the caps of the power supply and see if that helps you may be getting too much AC ripple on your 5 Volt DC which will cause all kinds of crazy things to happen There is more then one 5 volt DC line, use heat on all the caps in the power supply and see if all your issues go away then use cold to screw it up as a test