new 1.2 meter dish and 12 footer

How does one determine thread size on metric bolts? The web search hasn't made it clear. TEK was unable to tell me what was shipped because they said that it can vary depending on what's on hand. I need an M22 nut but I need to figure out what kind of threading I need.
with an M22 it's large enough that you might be able to simply measure it on the existing bolt with a ruler. The common thread pitch on M22 would usually be 2.5mm, but could also be 1.5 or 2mm for a fine pitch, according to this: ISO metric screw thread - Wikipedia
 
A simpler way to check things out is to compare Metric as European vs. Japanese.
I once had a Volvo, which of course had European threads on their metric bolts.
My next car was a Subaru, which had Japanese metric hardware.
I found that the least costly source of Japanese hardware was a Honda motorcycle shop, as compared to a Japanese car dealer. This was in the late 1970s in Alaska, but introduced me to the two systems.
Car dealers seemed to have a much higher markup on their metric hardware, as compared to motorcycle dealers. Use above info from previous entry to determine what you should have, and my advice in an attempt to find a local source. Good luck.
 
Is this right? I tried turning the declination plate on the ring upside down and it still didn't fit right.
 

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I don't own one of those dishes, but that CAN'T be right. I had an issue like that with the SAMI dish I got 2 years ago, and I redrilled the holes to get the bolt straight. Before I did that, the dish would flop just enough (because you couldn't tighten the nut due to it being canted) that it caused me to not be able to tweak it properly.
 
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I'm sure that I have that plate attached to the ring properly after examining an enlarged picture from the tvrosat website.
 
I'm sure that I have that plate attached to the ring properly after examining an enlarged picture from the tvrosat website.

Figure a way to drill the holes straight across from each other. You may have to bolt on a flat extender piece, so you can do so. Unless the shortest one is tall enough to just redrill?
 
Began installing the panels. Hopefully I'll have that completed tomorrow and then I have to figure out how to add these additional reflector supports and where to attach the feed support arms. There's 4 holes on each panel arm to select from. Also, it turns out that the 12 footers come with additional supports for the reflector and they attach on the back of the panels. Now I know what these extra pieces are for. TEK should have had a downloadable manual showing how all this goes together. The attached image shows the reflector support arms.
 

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Got the panels mostly installed but I seem to be missing some hardware. Apparently, I never got all the hardware. Anyway, it seems that it was easier to assemble the panels with the ring mounted to the pole. But still, it looks like this thing wasn't properly engineered. The panels aren't smooth either so I'm not going to have high expectations for this dish. I mounted the actuator so that this thing won't flop around in the wind. Still got a lot of work to do but it looks like a storm is moving in tomorrow. Always something.
 
Got the panels mostly installed but I seem to be missing some hardware. Apparently, I never got all the hardware. Anyway, it seems that it was easier to assemble the panels with the ring mounted to the pole. But still, it looks like this thing wasn't properly engineered. The panels aren't smooth either so I'm not going to have high expectations for this dish. I mounted the actuator so that this thing won't flop around in the wind. Still got a lot of work to do but it looks like a storm is moving in tomorrow. Always something.

Try to face it so that any high winds blow across the face, not directly at it.
 
Now for my next question. I have 2 pieces of angle iron that came with my package and I don't know what they are for. They have a hole on one end and 2 holes on the other end.
 

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My guess would be: to put left or right at the dish frame, to mount the actuator to.
But then, you'd only need one of them.


As to your signature:
The most powerful weapon is love.


Greetz,
A33
 
My guess would be: to put left or right at the dish frame, to mount the actuator to.
But then, you'd only need one of them.

TEK just informed me that they are lock down bars. They look too short for that but I don't plan on using them.
 
12 footer progress report. Attached are photos of what has been accomplished so far. I still need to install the center plate and the feedhorn support struts. I have 4 struts but none of them are shaped to attach to 1 of 4 holes on 4 of the panels (see photo) or to the scaler. Each panel has 4 holes close together and I'm assuming that I have to determine the appropriate hole to attach the strut to. The strut has a single hole on one end which I assume attaches to one of the holes on the panel while the end with 2 holes is where the scaler attaches. It looks like both ends of the strut will have to be bent before they'll attach to anything.
 

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Anybody know what the large bolt holes on the mount are for? For additional pole support struts? Anyone know what the bracket in the second photo is for?
 

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Very close to completion now. If I don't need to run a longer run of RG6 I should be ready to align the dish tomorrow. I think I might be missing a plate for mounting the actuator to the mount though. Well, I need to do a string test and I expect that it'll show that I don't have a perfect shape. Actually, I don't expect the dish to perform as well as it should because the mesh isn't perfectly smooth. But, if I get the services I want that's all that will matter. It should be noted that it turned out to be easier to install the panels with the ring mounted instead of on the ground.
 
Even with the difficulties you've had with this dish, I'm curious to see how you can do with it. Being 12 feet, you should be able to receive most of what's up there. What do you think will be your most extreme east and west satellites that you will be able to receive?
 
It's just a shame that Tek sells such a crappy, undocumented product.
And his tech support is just as bad. From email's I've had back and forth with him it usually "is your fault" in his opinion. His replacement motor for the QARL Super Jack is one. I asked in a post here if anyone could measure the O.D. of their Super Jack to compare if "mine must be a very old one" because the I.D. of the motor coupling of the one I bought for the QARL is ~1.75" I.D......and mine is 2".
Thank goodness I have a friend with a Bridgeport he let me use. 10 minutes and a boring bar and salvation was at hand. Then the danged motor brush screws were loose as loose could be. Hardly any lube in the gears.
Jesus, Tek. Come on!!!!!

Johnny. If it were me I'd string the dish into slices like mom's apple pie and at least check and tweak that baby into as good of a parabala as you could.
 
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Hi All,

I can attest to the lousy documentation that came with my Tek2000 8 foot solid dish that I purchased a year ago.
If I was a newbie and wasn't familiar with assembling dishes, I’d be lost. The only thing I got with my dish was a blown up diagram. When I sent the seller an email
to complain, he told me a manual was in the works. Well not that I need it now, but where is it for new purchasers. ???
On a positive note, I’m pleased with its performance and strength, as it has survived several storms with no issues.

John
 
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I didn't get the dish aligned today. I did check the focal distance and the best I could get was 51.5 inches from the scaler to the center of the dish. TEK told me that it should be 53 inches from the scaler to the center plate. I guess I'll need to drill some holes since none of the 5 predrilled holes didn't work out. Hopefully, I'll get a chance to do a string test tomorrow.
 
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