OpenBox Died. Now what do I do?

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Too bad you had issues with the S9. Later versions of firmware corrected most of the problems except for the lack of a proper clock.
 
I'm not sorry I bought the OpenBox, and I knew at the time there were fixes, I chose not to. I guess saying I wouldn't have another one is kinda harsh, I mean I had a lot of fun with it and it did produce a beautiful picture. I might still try loading the latest firmware and see what happens. It'll be the first time ever. If I'm successful, I might try map master for my 922.
 
The HDMI output has been dead for about a year and a half and now the composite output is dead. No picture or sound but the panel does light up. Also checked to make sure it was on 720p. Checked all the wires and cables. It's dead like a zombie.
Now I'm wondering if getting a new FTA Box is worth it. I'm looking into a smart tv that can get lots of stuff, the internet, Netfix etc.
On the other hand, some boxes come with the ability to surf the internet and I have Roku.
If I get another box, which ones are the better?
A good blind scan is more important than a fast scan.

Am sorry for your loss. I recommend a MicroHD. Afterwards you'll be happy the Openbox died.
 
All receivers have issues at one time or another. It seems that as firmware gets upgraded multiple times, more issues appear. I personally believe that a receiver that uses firmware developed for North America, will give you the most satisfaction. That is why the manhattan and the geosatpro receivers are so popular.
 
All receivers have issues at one time or another. It seems that as firmware gets upgraded multiple times, more issues appear. I personally believe that a receiver that uses firmware developed for North America, will give you the most satisfaction. That is why the manhattan and the geosatpro receivers are so popular.

And don't forget the AzBox miniMe American edition :D

The harsh reality is that there's only a few FTA receivers out there with firmware developed right here in North America so we should appreciate the models out there that actually are.
 
I don't buy the idea of writing off products just because they're from outside North America. Obviously, those developers inside this continent would love to sell that line to customers here. Analyze each product on its merits.
 
I didn't say write them off. Just understand that you may face issues. Also keep in mind that poorly written firmware (or poorly repaired) can shorten the life of your hardware considerably.
 
An FTA receiver should be the same no matter where in the world it is used. Correct me if I'm wrong the only difference is the list of satellites.
 
10 minutes later and I'm stumped.
How do I use the Microhd with the 922? I need the 922 to move the dish. I'm sure this topic has been discussed a thousand times so I am going to research it, but if someone wants to chime in, Ill listen.
 
I'll attempt at a solution
one way:
wire LNB coax direct to microHD. Scan only H polarity so it supplies 18v to LNB. BUT select actual polarity with the 922.
Other way: Use a one port power passing splitter. Blocked port to the microHD. Power passing from the 922 to the LNB.
2nd other way: A power inserter. blocked side to microHD, power side to LNB.
In all cases the polarity is selected by the 922.
If LNBF:
a one port power passing splitter with the blocked side to the 922. In this case the microHD also controls polarity seen by the 922.


IIRR, the 922 can also operate a LNBF(select polarity)??
 
I want to be able to watch H2H programming and keep the ability to move the dish with my 922 while at the same time, be able to switch my TV to the desired output and be able to watch the MicroHD.
I have a LNB and watch only C-Band, I'm not set up for KU.
The 922 would also control the polarity.

So according to this diagram, do I need a high frequency splitter and a DiSEqC switch?
Here is a diagram If you are using a feedhorn with a polorotor. The 922 moves the dish and controls polarity.

http://www.satelliteguys.us/attachment.php?attachmentid=57286&d=1276485151
 
For your purposes yes you will need one splitter (one port power passing one port DC blocking) and a diseqc switch. Just remember to run the coax from the pansat directly to the motor and the switch goes between the motor and the lnbs. one port will got to the ku lnb and the other port goes to the splitter (dc blocked port). When you set up your satellites in the pansat disable motor settings for all your C band birds. My setup is similar except that I have ku on the bud as well as a motorized ku dish so I use the second splitter and a four port switch (the small dish has a circular and linear outpot lnb). So I can get my ku from either dish.
 
For your purposes yes you will need one splitter (one port power passing one port DC blocking) and a diseqc switch. Just remember to run the coax from the pansat directly to the motor and the switch goes between the motor and the lnbs. one port will got to the ku lnb and the other port goes to the splitter (dc blocked port). When you set up your satellites in the pansat disable motor settings for all your C band birds. My setup is similar except that I have ku on the bud as well as a motorized ku dish so I use the second splitter and a four port switch (the small dish has a circular and linear outpot lnb). So I can get my ku from either dish.

Sorry I just reread your post. You wont need the switch if you are only watching C band. and just substitute micro HD for pansat. :doh:
 
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