OpenBox S10 Installation Questions (1 Viewer)

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Ranger One

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Sep 10, 2011
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Cheektowaga, NY
Hi to all!
Just purchased the OpenBox S10, the Vbox 7 & the BSC621 which I should receive by the end of next week.

I’ve been reading through the online manuals for each which leads me to ask questions from other users on this forum.

Old setup: Toshiba TRX2220 analog receiver & dish mover with a Satcruiser DSR 101 slaved to it with a 7 ½ ft dish. Horizon to horizon: 72 degrees west to 137 degrees west is what I can receive here in Western New York. Have no reception problems with C or Ku band. The wiring running in from the outside consists of 4 cables: C band, Ku band, Actuator control, & Polorator control.

If my understanding is correct: the BSC621 will do all the switching so I just have to connect the loop cable from the Ku connection to the Lnb port & then connect the recv out port to the C band line which would then be hooked up to the Vbox 7. I would then cap off the old Ku line at the dish.

Is this correct?

Vbox 7 connections: I traced down all the wires on the back of the Toshiba: I know which ones the M1 & M2 are & ground (actuator feed back line) & actuator return pulse wires. There is also a + 5v wire: the manual states this the actuator signal line that provides + 5v to a hall effect device. ( no idea what that is!). The Vbox 7 has two connections for the Reed Sensor. Which holes do the Pulse & ground wires hook into. From the manual & pictures online I don’t see any markings as to which one is which. The M1 & M2 connections are clearly marked.

Do I still need the +5v connection & if so where do I connect it?

Which hole is for the pulse connection & which one is for the ground on the Vbox 7?

How to start out? These are assumptions on my part, that’s why I’m asking for suggestions from current users.

(1). Setup limits on the Vbox 7.

(2). OpenBox S10: do I go into the Satellite list first and select all the Satellites that I should be able to receive or do I go into the Antenna setup first?

(3). BSC621: according to forum post the settings for C/Ku on a single antenna setting menu are:

LNB Type: universal
First (low): 5150
Second (high): 10750
22kHz: off
DiesqC: off

Do I set this up once or does have to be set for each satellite individually?
What about motor settings? With the above settings what should the motor settings be set at & again is this a one time selection or do I have to do this on a satellite by satellite basis?

Any suggestions will be appreciated! I’m looking forward to making my BUD useful again!
Thank’s for taking the time to read this long post.

Ranger One
 

FaT Air

HOA Free Zone
Feb 27, 2010
6,668
913
97W 48N
BSC621 Band Switching is via diseqc(switch) http://www.dmsiusa.com/docs/621-2manual.pdf
Don't know if S10 band switching can be accomplished programmed as a universal. I have an S9 and tried as you have described, it was a no go.

IF your actuator is a Hall Effect sensor, It will require a +5V source. A wall wart power supply putting out 5Vdc can be used. Connect the - out to the VBox sensor - and to the - sensor lead. The + out will go only to the + lead to the sensor. The pulse lead from the sensor to the VBox pulse connection.

Each satellite is set up individually - Motor settings, LNB, switches, etc. In my S9,(very similar to the S10, as to programming) you first must go into the sat llist and check the satellites you want to program in the antenna setup menu, and scan in the satellite scan menu. (2 satellites programmed at an orbital location(motor position), 1 for C band, 1 for Ku [when necessary].

We'll have to get some feedback from a Vbox owner for specifics on that as I only have a Gbox. ( and a 2 wire sensor ) BTW:
:welcome To satelliteguys!
 
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Ranger One

Thread Starter
New Member
Sep 10, 2011
3
0
Cheektowaga, NY
Searching for 5Vdc adapters I only come up with ones with barrel connectors. If I buy one & cut the end off will I be able to identify the positive & negative wires?
 

FaT Air

HOA Free Zone
Feb 27, 2010
6,668
913
97W 48N
Multimeter - hxxp://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2999093 Our local surplus outlet had some even cheaper.(also had a selection of the wall warts) Indispensable for checking continuity, polarity of DC. I should add - may want to put a capacitor, 470uf(?), from the + to - to filter out noise as some wall warts have been known to be poorly filtered. (noise may show up as a pulse in the Vbox)
 
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