Pls Help Diagnose, I'm out of ideas

Lawdog15

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Original poster
Nov 8, 2006
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I'm getting strong signals on 119 tp 19 (around 97-98 signal strength) and 110 tp 21 (around 89-90) but when trying to tweak the dish I haven't been able to get even a hiccup out of the following:

Sat 119
Tp 6, 10, 16, 2

Sat 110
Tp 12, 2, 10

I've been missing the channels associated with these transponders for quite a while now. They started getting flaky for reasons not apparent to me (would go out regularly at certain times of the day) and then eventually were lost completely. Strangely, they miraculously reappeared over labor day weekend before going out again.

I have the dish 500 equipment, and an old mpeg2 receiver. My location is Houston, 77479

I appreciate any input you can give!
 
sat 110 has spot beams galore. I know TP12 is a spotbeam and I think 10 is also. SO if you are outside of the spotbeam you won't get a signal :)

119 has spotbeams at 1,3,5,7,9

what receiver are you using?
 
Looks like you're missing the even transponders. That usually indicates problems with cable or connectors. Check all your connectors, make sure they are not corroded or have water inside. The cable must be RG6 rated to at least 2200 Mhz, DO NOT use RG59.

How far are the dishes from the receiver? There is a limitation for DP of 200 ft. Any switches involved? Are the LNBs DP or Legacy?
 
Using an old echostar DV3 DP301 receiver. I would say the distance is 30-35 feet max. I'll take a closer look at the cables.

I know all the connections appear tight/clean but instead of running a straight cable all the way from the dish, he patched it into the black in-wall cable. He did a poor job grounding it too but when I played with the grounding wire it didn't appear to affect it.

Thanks for the input guys....
 
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LNB is DP-Twin

If it is the cable, isn't it kindof odd that it would go out regularly at certain times of the day, and then ultimately disappear completely? :confused:

Edit: I just checked the cable he patched it in to and it is, in fact, RG-6/U Quad-shield cable, but I don't see a Mhz rating on it
 
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Check all even transponders

Check all your even transponders. It looks like it is only the even ones. In which case it is the the DP twin, a switch that triggers the evens, or the receiver is no longer triggering the even side of the LNB's.
 
Yep, all the evens are out. I'll try to find someone else who has a receiver I can swap out to test that end. If not, looks like I'll have to have a tech come out. (darn!)

Thanks again for the replies

By the way, I've been trying to find a clear explanation of what a switch is, is it part of the receiver or LNB? Is the purpose to 'switch' between the evens and odds or am I way off?

When I run "Check switch" it only says "odd" underneath 119 and 110. When I check system information it has a red X below 110 and 119.
 
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The first thing I'd look at is the connectors. Every connector, that means chasing the cables, and unscrewing every connector and putting eyeballs on them. Check the ground block, if it doesn't have any kind of sealant on it, it could be corroded. Whatever he used to splice the cables in the attic is suspect. Check the splices on both sides of the wall plate, if there is one. Remember, always check the cheap crap everybody takes for granted FIRST. Every barrell connector/splice should use parts rated for 3 Ghz the plastic insert in them will be blue or red, NOT white or clear. The 1ghz stuff will work, but it will fail, eventually.
 
I'll recheck the connections for the plastic insert color you mentioned. What specifically is it about the 1ghz connectors that causes them to fail?
 
I'll recheck the connections for the plastic insert color you mentioned. What specifically is it about the 1ghz connectors that causes them to fail?


I never opened them to compare, but I imagine the innards are a little more substantial on the 3 Ghz models since they are a litttle larger.

And why are people telling him to go buy parts? :eek: Its one thing if you are a tech on a service call to waste time trying new parts out, but its completely different if you are a customer having to buy them.

Also, you didn't say---is your dish on a pole or on the house?
 
"What specifically is it about the 1ghz connectors that causes them to fail?"

The satellite signal goes up to 2150 Mhz, if the barrel connector is rated to 1Ghz it won't pass the higher signals. Some people say that's not true but if Dish Network recommends everything rated to 2200 Mhz or more it's because they've done their tests.

Sounds like you don't have a switch. The switch is built in inside the DP Twin LNB.
 
I never opened them to compare, but I imagine the innards are a little more substantial on the 3 Ghz models since they are a litttle larger.

And why are people telling him to go buy parts? :eek: Its one thing if you are a tech on a service call to waste time trying new parts out, but its completely different if you are a customer having to buy them.

Also, you didn't say---is your dish on a pole or on the house?

It's mounted on the roof. I've been up there trying to re-peak it and it improved a bit but the evens are no-show.

BTW I don't mind people suggesting what parts to switch out if they can explain why they think that's the source of failure. At the end of the day I have to weigh the risk of buying a part on ebay that may not fix the issue versus spending money on a tech (who may or may not do a careful job).

DIY's more fun for me anyway (not always cheaper, but more fun)
 
BTW I don't mind people suggesting what parts to switch out if they can explain why they think that's the source of failure. At the end of the day I have to weigh the risk of buying a part on ebay that may not fix the issue versus spending money on a tech (who may or may not do a careful job).

Right. Its like a car. If your car won't start, you wouldn't dream about replacing the fuel pump without doing some tests, first.

Do you have any way to test the continuity of the cable or look for voltage at the dish?
 
"What specifically is it about the 1ghz connectors that causes them to fail?"

The satellite signal goes up to 2150 Mhz, if the barrel connector is rated to 1Ghz it won't pass the higher signals. Some people say that's not true but if Dish Network recommends everything rated to 2200 Mhz or more it's because they've done their tests.

Sounds like you don't have a switch. The switch is built in inside the DP Twin LNB.

I believe it is a DP Twin LNBF, based on the Dish Pro logo on the front and back of it.
 
Right. Its like a car. If your car won't start, you wouldn't dream about replacing the fuel pump without doing some tests, first.

Do you have any way to test the continuity of the cable or look for voltage at the dish?

I don't, sadly, and I agree with you about the fuel pump but replacing an LNB (or DP-34??) doesn't seem prohibitively expensive or difficult if this can be narrowed down to either the cable or the LNB being the source of the problem and not the receiver...
 
I don't, sadly, and I agree with you about the fuel pump but replacing an LNB (or DP-34??) doesn't seem prohibitively expensive or difficult if this can be narrowed down to either the cable or the LNB being the source of the problem and not the receiver...


Right but if you assume it is the LNB and go on ebay to buy one, wait a week to get it, then find out that it doesn't fix the problem, you've wasted a lot of time, and more than likely missed some of your shows. It only takes a little while to check that to make sure. If you find something amiss, parts to fix it can be obtained at home depot or lowes.
 
Ok, I switched the cable to the other port on the LNBF and I now have transponder 2 on sats 119 and 110. Still missing 119 tp 6, 10 and 16 and 110 tp 12 & 10. (This was after unplugging the RG-6 from the receiver and running a check switch to reset and plugging it back in).

I did pull apart every connection and it appears that the little blue plastic thingie inside the F81 is cracked on both ends (is that considered a dielectric?), so I'll go get a new barrel connector for that.

Any equipment you recommend to check voltage or continuity on the line? I mean, clearly I have some continuity if I'm getting most channels. I've been meaning for some time to get a voltage tester for other things.
 
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