Positioner wiring

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pjcl

pjcl

Thread Starter
SatelliteGuys Pro
Nov 9, 2008
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OK, looks like there are 5 wires for 4 "holes"? How do we connect these?

Thanks everybody, and Happy Holidays!
 

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FaT Air

FaT Air

HOA Free Zone
Feb 27, 2010
6,668
914
97W 48N
Pretty self explanatory -
 

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pjcl

pjcl

Thread Starter
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Nov 9, 2008
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Great, I begin to see the light at the end of the tunnel - thanks, FaT Air. So, since I'm using a DMX741, I will not connect the servo wires, right (I don't have one)? The motor wires, if my understanding is correct, are interchangeable - one extends the arm, the other, retracts - is this correct? This means I have to connect in such a way that pushing the left button on the positioner equals arm extension, i.e., eastward movement, correct? About the sensor wiring, which one goes on top and which one goes to the bottom? Will it depend on how the wiring in the actuator is done? And why are these needed? - Could I just move the dish to one side or to the other manually? I apologize for my ignorance on the subject, I'm new to C-band, as ku band stopped being a challenge. Thanks.
 
FaT Air

FaT Air

HOA Free Zone
Feb 27, 2010
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The servo wires are normally used with a servo(poloarotor). Use then for what-ever as you use an LNBF. The sensor wires don't matter when using a reed switch(2 wire) sensor. Matters if using a Hall or optical(3 wire. requires externaly supplied voltage to third wire) Motor wires, as needed to make programming easier, East command = East movement of dish. Could be extend or retract depending on what side of dish the actuator is on. Sensor counts are needed to program the G/Vbox satellite positions. Set the actuators extended limit switch so no damage is done to actuator or dish.
 
pjcl

pjcl

Thread Starter
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Nov 9, 2008
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So, in my case, I just need to connect *any* two of those three wires to the positioner? And about the DRAIN/GND wire, it only needs to touch metal on the side of the dish? Can it be the LNB, or does it have to be a different part? Thanks again, FaT Air.
 
FaT Air

FaT Air

HOA Free Zone
Feb 27, 2010
6,668
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I just need to connect *any* two of those
The two that go to the reed switch. Might have to open the actuator to see which two that is.( and to confirm it is a reed switch)
Drain wire
I just attach to metal inside the actuator, Mounting screw for the barrier strip for the motor and sensor wires works for me.
 
pjcl

pjcl

Thread Starter
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Nov 9, 2008
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Sounds good. I'll take a picture of the inside of the actuator and post it here, I'm sure it won't just say "Hey newbie, I am a reed switch!" lol. Thanks, man.
 
pjcl

pjcl

Thread Starter
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Nov 9, 2008
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Pictures are in

Here's what I found, including the diagram on the cover. I noticed that in this case, the green wire is not attached to anything. I also noticed one loose wire.
 

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pjcl

pjcl

Thread Starter
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Nov 9, 2008
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So, I need to connect the orange and the brown wires to the positioner. Does it matter which one goes where? And that black wire in the actuator arm, where is it supposed to go?
 

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FaT Air

FaT Air

HOA Free Zone
Feb 27, 2010
6,668
914
97W 48N
I think you're going to have to follow that grey wire. it goes to the sensor (reed switch), the black should go there also. then orange and the brown wires to the sensor(which where - doesn't matter) on the mover.
 

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truckracer

truckracer

SatelliteGuys Pro
Sep 17, 2004
4,338
351
Charleston wv
Green and white are your motor power wires. The other two are for the sensor. Sensor wires don't have polarity so the order does not matter.

Your m1 and m2 wires if reversed will cause your dish to move the wrong direction. If you push the east button an it goes west reverse m1 and m2. The "drain" wire is probably nothing more than ground and is not necessary.
 
pjcl

pjcl

Thread Starter
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Nov 9, 2008
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I just noticed that *both* the grey and black wires are loose. Can't tell where they are supposed to go... any ideas?
 

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FaT Air

FaT Air

HOA Free Zone
Feb 27, 2010
6,668
914
97W 48N
Can't tell where they are supposed to go... any ideas?
See previous post - You'ii need to take it apart a bit more, should find the magnet wheel inside, reed switch should be very close to it. (I've seen some actuators that use a micro switch and cam instead of a reed switch and magnet wheel) Re-assemble careful to get the cams in the proper location.
For ease of working on it, you could remove the motor from the tube and take it apart on the workbench.
 
pjcl

pjcl

Thread Starter
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Nov 9, 2008
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OK, before I start taking the think apart, it may be a good thing to have a general idea of where to look. Where would the motor be? Behind #1? #2? #3? I'm guessing right behingd the cilinder on top of the arm...
 

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FaT Air

FaT Air

HOA Free Zone
Feb 27, 2010
6,668
914
97W 48N
Behind there somewhere, just take it apart carefully. there is a geartrain and the sensor switch, important to put it back together as it was, if you have to take some of the gears out to repair the switch. Usually the gears can stay in place. All of them are different in the gear box so you'll have to answer your own question, when you take it apart.
 

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pjcl

pjcl

Thread Starter
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Nov 9, 2008
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Still the wiring inside the actuator arm

Guys, I still can't figure out where these two wires go. This is a SuperJack II + HQ actuator. I took it down to have a better look. Motor wires (red and white) were in place. Two of the thinner wires (brown and orange, in the case) were, too. Then I had these two thinner wires, one black, one white, which I found loose and I can't absolutely find where they go. Taking the unit further apart, to where the dented wheels are visible, didn't help. Any suggestions?
 

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Long Hair

Long Hair

SatelliteGuys Pro
Jun 17, 2009
320
0
Mo
maybe these pics will help you. this is done under the #3 on your pics
 

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pjcl

pjcl

Thread Starter
SatelliteGuys Pro
Nov 9, 2008
318
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Earth
Thanks Long Hair. This may be starting to come together...
 
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