After a LONG delay, going to try and re-attach the reflector on the mount this weekend and align the dish this weekend. As this also means rewiring everything, can I get an opinion on which wire to use? For the actuator I'm guessing I just need 4 wire 16 or 18 AWG with some sort of outdoor rating? I'm thinking Home Depot should have something suitable although I can always call Graybar.
Actuator wiring
- Thread starter mr3p
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How long a run? You should install at least 14 gauge minimum for the two motor wires. Then, you need SHIELDED wire for the sensor switch. I'd go for a minimum of 18 gauge for that, and it should have full shield around those two sensor wires. The shield should ONLY be connected at the receiver end. Leave it disconnected at the motor end.
Buriable and UV resistant wire like for sprinkler systems might work. Most of that wire is 18 AWG and would be good for the sensor wire except you would want it shielded. Although shielded wire didn't help me much. You'll need to determine the gauge of the motor wire and size it according to how long the run is and how much current is being pulled in order to minimize voltage drop. You might be OK with 18 AWG on a run less than 50 feet but it's always good to go with a larger gauge wire.
Low Voltage Garden Light wire is great for the Motor wiring. It is 14 or 12 gauge copper stranded and a thick jacket meant for direct burial.
www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wire-Landscape-Lighting-Wires/N-5yc1vZc57l?NCNI-5
ALWAYS use shielded cables for sensor distribution. If using a polarity servo also use separate shielded group.
There is a reason to follow best practice that has been used on installs for almost 40 years and a "what worked for me". When we provide advice on the forum, let's provide best practice solutions and not a cobbled fix, fashioned out of bubble gum and duct tape...
www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wire-Landscape-Lighting-Wires/N-5yc1vZc57l?NCNI-5
ALWAYS use shielded cables for sensor distribution. If using a polarity servo also use separate shielded group.
There is a reason to follow best practice that has been used on installs for almost 40 years and a "what worked for me". When we provide advice on the forum, let's provide best practice solutions and not a cobbled fix, fashioned out of bubble gum and duct tape...
I was also going to suggest the underground sprinkler system wire but the direct burial low voltage garden light wire makes more sense and is probably cheaper. For the shielded sensor wires, assuming there are only two wires might it be possible to use a type of direct burial shielded wire intended for use with stereo outdoor speakers or similar stereo audio equipment, if such a thing exists? That should give you two shielded wires.
That said I will just note that I have removed dishes put in by professional installers (helpfully finding them a new home)
that did not use shielded wires for the sensor, that presumably worked at the time they were installed. But as we all know, not everyone who claimed to be a professional installer back in the 80's actually knew what they were doing.
That said I will just note that I have removed dishes put in by professional installers (helpfully finding them a new home)
that did not use shielded wires for the sensor, that presumably worked at the time they were installed. But as we all know, not everyone who claimed to be a professional installer back in the 80's actually knew what they were doing.One thing I forgot to mention, if you don't already have some type of conduit or pipe running to the dish and if you are going to have to dig a trench, you might want to invest in a roll of cheap irrigation pipe (the black plastic stuff) and put that in the ground and then pull all your wires through that. It helps protect your wires from damage, such as if you are digging in the area for some other reason it helps prevent shovel damage, as well as giving you an easy way to run a new wire should you ever need to. If you do that, also get a tube of 100% silicone caulk and after you run the wires use that to caulk any end of the pipe that is exposed to the elements. You will never completely prevent moisture from entering the pipe but if properly applied the silicone will keep most of it out. Depending on the diameter of the pipe, you may have to apply the silicone in layers to keep it from falling into the pipe (start at the edges and work inwards, waiting about a half hour to an hour between each layer, until it is completely closed off).
I find it interesting that shielded wire is recommended for the actuator sensor (pulse counter) wires while it's not even suggested for my ham radio antenna rotor wires. Anyway, if someone goes to a hall sensor for the actuator and/or uses the relay "buffer" at the sensor input to the dish controller, would that negate the need for shielded wire?
Common mode has less of an effect on hall effect and optical counting circuits. Also, most amateur radio rotator motors are AC and satellite actuators are DC. Reed switches basically provide and open close cycle of a DC voltage circuit to the cycle counting logic. Common mode from an actuator and/or servo motors could be read as cycles as well as the stutter and ragged edges of a switch open/close.
My Yaesu found a new home at the club's last white elephant sale... 
The RFI got into VHF SSB.
Tailtwister, Hygain ERC USB for Flex remote operation.
The RFI got into VHF SSB.Tailtwister, Hygain ERC USB for Flex remote operation.
Would it be possible to use a single 16 AWG 4 conductor shielded cable for both sensor and motor wires if run is ~200 ft ? Other than short run on deck, there would be no direct contact with the ground or environment as it will be inside conduit.
I just installed the ERC RS232 version in my G-800SA. Works but the extended calibration feature was very inaccurate as compared to the standard calibration. I don't have RFI problems like you did.My Yaesu found a new home at the club's last white elephant sale...
Tailtwister, Hygain ERC USB for Flex remote operation.
16 AWG should work but the 2 sensor wires would have to be shielded separately.
Thanks. I was just trying to figure out if there might be a single cable option. I guess I'm looing at this 14/2 landscape wire for the motor and I'll have to find something shielded for the sensor
mr3p 16 gauge is pretty small for a 200 ft run. Even at 14ga for 200ft and 24volts at 4amps (if you are using an old-school analog sat receiver for positioner, it's likely 24volts), it would be around a 4~ volt drop. IF your dish is a large one, you might have issues with that. I'd seriously consider using 12/2 landscape burial cable for the motor, and separate shielded cable of at least 16 gauge for the sensor wire.
IF you have a wife that likes gardening and uses a shovel, you'd also be WELL advised to put the cable inside of black coiled flex pipe...
Oh yeah, and pull at least 1 EXTRA coax, because you never know, and it's much easier to do it now, than later if you get a bad one, or decide to reconfigure. Personally, I always pull several extras.
IF you have a wife that likes gardening and uses a shovel, you'd also be WELL advised to put the cable inside of black coiled flex pipe...
Oh yeah, and pull at least 1 EXTRA coax, because you never know, and it's much easier to do it now, than later if you get a bad one, or decide to reconfigure. Personally, I always pull several extras.
It never hurts to overbuild. Cost may come into play though. I doubt that the actuator will draw 4 A. Last time I measured the current draw it was only 1.3A @36VDC.
On a well-balanced newer mesh sat dish with newer actuator, I agree, lower current such as what you have. I don't know what equipment he has though, and it's always best to calculate for a minimum of 4 amps, IMO anyway. I've installed multiple C-band dishes since 1984, so have some experience at it. I had a 12ft commercial fiberglass dish once with a 36" actuator, and it consistently drew pushing 4 amps. That dish weighed about 300lbs, and had an old flop-over style polar mount.
Thanks guys. Not a big deal to move up to 12/2 for motor. I'll make a trip back to home depot to see if they have 16/2 shielded for sensor. Dish is 10ft KTI, Superjack 36" QARL and Vbox
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