Positioner wiring

  • WELCOME TO THE NEW SERVER!

    If you are seeing this you are on our new server WELCOME HOME!

    While the new server is online Scott is still working on the backend including the cachine. But the site is usable while the work is being completes!

    Thank you for your patience and again WELCOME HOME!

    CLICK THE X IN THE TOP RIGHT CORNER OF THE BOX TO DISMISS THIS MESSAGE
Status
Please reply by conversation.

pjcl

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Nov 9, 2008
318
0
Earth
OK, looks like there are 5 wires for 4 "holes"? How do we connect these?

Thanks everybody, and Happy Holidays!
 

Attachments

  • positioner_back.JPG
    positioner_back.JPG
    137.5 KB · Views: 563
  • wiring.JPG
    wiring.JPG
    130.2 KB · Views: 513
Great, I begin to see the light at the end of the tunnel - thanks, FaT Air. So, since I'm using a DMX741, I will not connect the servo wires, right (I don't have one)? The motor wires, if my understanding is correct, are interchangeable - one extends the arm, the other, retracts - is this correct? This means I have to connect in such a way that pushing the left button on the positioner equals arm extension, i.e., eastward movement, correct? About the sensor wiring, which one goes on top and which one goes to the bottom? Will it depend on how the wiring in the actuator is done? And why are these needed? - Could I just move the dish to one side or to the other manually? I apologize for my ignorance on the subject, I'm new to C-band, as ku band stopped being a challenge. Thanks.
 
The servo wires are normally used with a servo(poloarotor). Use then for what-ever as you use an LNBF. The sensor wires don't matter when using a reed switch(2 wire) sensor. Matters if using a Hall or optical(3 wire. requires externaly supplied voltage to third wire) Motor wires, as needed to make programming easier, East command = East movement of dish. Could be extend or retract depending on what side of dish the actuator is on. Sensor counts are needed to program the G/Vbox satellite positions. Set the actuators extended limit switch so no damage is done to actuator or dish.
 
So, in my case, I just need to connect *any* two of those three wires to the positioner? And about the DRAIN/GND wire, it only needs to touch metal on the side of the dish? Can it be the LNB, or does it have to be a different part? Thanks again, FaT Air.
 
I just need to connect *any* two of those
The two that go to the reed switch. Might have to open the actuator to see which two that is.( and to confirm it is a reed switch)
Drain wire
I just attach to metal inside the actuator, Mounting screw for the barrier strip for the motor and sensor wires works for me.
 
Sounds good. I'll take a picture of the inside of the actuator and post it here, I'm sure it won't just say "Hey newbie, I am a reed switch!" lol. Thanks, man.
 
Pictures are in

Here's what I found, including the diagram on the cover. I noticed that in this case, the green wire is not attached to anything. I also noticed one loose wire.
 

Attachments

  • diagram.JPG
    diagram.JPG
    116.9 KB · Views: 660
  • actuator_wiring.JPG
    actuator_wiring.JPG
    90.1 KB · Views: 879
So, I need to connect the orange and the brown wires to the positioner. Does it matter which one goes where? And that black wire in the actuator arm, where is it supposed to go?
 

Attachments

  • positioner_back.JPG
    positioner_back.JPG
    137.5 KB · Views: 249
I think you're going to have to follow that grey wire. it goes to the sensor (reed switch), the black should go there also. then orange and the brown wires to the sensor(which where - doesn't matter) on the mover.
 

Attachments

  • Diagram_actuator.jpg
    Diagram_actuator.jpg
    53.2 KB · Views: 592
Green and white are your motor power wires. The other two are for the sensor. Sensor wires don't have polarity so the order does not matter.

Your m1 and m2 wires if reversed will cause your dish to move the wrong direction. If you push the east button an it goes west reverse m1 and m2. The "drain" wire is probably nothing more than ground and is not necessary.
 
I just noticed that *both* the grey and black wires are loose. Can't tell where they are supposed to go... any ideas?
 

Attachments

  • actuator_wiring.JPG
    actuator_wiring.JPG
    90.1 KB · Views: 309
Can't tell where they are supposed to go... any ideas?
See previous post - You'ii need to take it apart a bit more, should find the magnet wheel inside, reed switch should be very close to it. (I've seen some actuators that use a micro switch and cam instead of a reed switch and magnet wheel) Re-assemble careful to get the cams in the proper location.
For ease of working on it, you could remove the motor from the tube and take it apart on the workbench.
 
OK, before I start taking the think apart, it may be a good thing to have a general idea of where to look. Where would the motor be? Behind #1? #2? #3? I'm guessing right behingd the cilinder on top of the arm...
 

Attachments

  • actuator_wiring.JPG
    actuator_wiring.JPG
    92.6 KB · Views: 398
Behind there somewhere, just take it apart carefully. there is a geartrain and the sensor switch, important to put it back together as it was, if you have to take some of the gears out to repair the switch. Usually the gears can stay in place. All of them are different in the gear box so you'll have to answer your own question, when you take it apart.
 

Attachments

  • act_in_color.jpg
    act_in_color.jpg
    16 KB · Views: 234
Still the wiring inside the actuator arm

Guys, I still can't figure out where these two wires go. This is a SuperJack II + HQ actuator. I took it down to have a better look. Motor wires (red and white) were in place. Two of the thinner wires (brown and orange, in the case) were, too. Then I had these two thinner wires, one black, one white, which I found loose and I can't absolutely find where they go. Taking the unit further apart, to where the dented wheels are visible, didn't help. Any suggestions?
 

Attachments

  • DSCF7385.JPG
    DSCF7385.JPG
    122.8 KB · Views: 662
  • DSCF7384.JPG
    DSCF7384.JPG
    108.6 KB · Views: 425
  • DSCF7381.JPG
    DSCF7381.JPG
    134.5 KB · Views: 576
  • DSCF7383.JPG
    DSCF7383.JPG
    94 KB · Views: 335
  • actuator_wiring.JPG
    actuator_wiring.JPG
    92.6 KB · Views: 311
maybe these pics will help you. this is done under the #3 on your pics
 

Attachments

  • d0.jpg
    d0.jpg
    37 KB · Views: 337
  • d2.jpg
    d2.jpg
    57.9 KB · Views: 292
  • d1.jpg
    d1.jpg
    51.6 KB · Views: 488
Status
Please reply by conversation.

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Total: 0, Members: 0, Guests: 0)

Who Read This Thread (Total Members: 2)

Latest posts