Putting Sat feed Wires Through a Roof

[Mike500]

I don't know about the other dealers and installers, here, but at $50 plus, Commdeck is too expensive to use on a fulfillment install. And, after looning at the installations, it requires roofing experience (which I have) that not all satellite installers have. It evidently takes more work to install Commdeck than it takes to replace a few shingles.

Probably the easiest method for a sealed roof penetration, excepting pulling wires under a ridge vent, is to use a one foot square of dead soft 3-6 oz dead soft copper foil sheet.

Make the entry at the bottom of one shingle tab and right at the top center of the the tab below. Drill a 1/8 inch hole into this area about 3/4" from the top of the tab. This is to verify that there is no rafter in this location. Then, using a spade bit or a one inch or so hole saw and the 1/8 inch hole as the center, drill right through the shingles and the roof deck. Using a utility knife cut the one inch wide slot from the drilled hole to the bottom of the shingle tab. Run all of your coaxes into the hole through the roof. Place the copper sheet over the tab with the bottom edge aligned with the bottom of the shingle tab. Using a wide putty knife or a drywall knife lift the surrounding shingles in the area covered by the copper sheet. Remove all of the roofing nails in the area with a pry bar. Lift the roof tab with the slot in it. Shove the copper sheet under this tab and over the coax wires. Work the copper sheet down smooting it over the coax wires, while laying down the shingle tab. Using two copper roofing nails, spaced one inch from each side of the coax slot in the shingle tab and one inch from its bottom, fasten the copper to the roof deck. If you are concerned with high winds, glue the bottom of the shing tab down with a small amount of roofing cement.

This provides for an absolutely neat and weatherproof cable entry for about $10 and 20 munutes labor. The copper will weather to a dark brown patina, whice will not be noticable from the ground. Roof repair upon removal requires replacing one shingle tab.

 

[Jared Twomey]

I don't know about the other dealers and installers, here, but at $50 plus, Commdeck is too expensive to use on a fulfillment install. And, after looning at the installations, it requires roofing experience (which I have) that not all satellite installers have. It evidently takes more work to install Commdeck than it takes to replace a few shingles.

Yeah, I agree... its not something you would use on every job. We just sell them on prewires, and sell either the commdeck or the retro deck as an add on to picky customers and apartment buildings with picky landlords.

 

[Todd Humphrey]

I wonder how much each of us thinks about the Commdeck is directly related to the construction methods used in the homes we serve?
I very rarely enter attic space, whereas I go into crawl spaces at least every third install.

 

[Mike500]

Yeah, I agree... its not something you would use on every job. We just sell them on prewires, and sell either the commdeck or the retro deck as an add on to picky customers and apartment buildings with picky landlords.

If I'm doing prewires, I wouldn't use Commdeck. I use something sturdier and cheaper. I guess you'd call it the poor man's Commdeck.


I use a 2-3/8" actual 16 gauge galvanized steel chain link fence end post. I'd install it where there is good Line of Sight, in a closet wall, and at a point where the side of the rafter intersects at a vertical corner with the side of a 2x4 stud right below the top plate. I'd use a 2-9/16" self feed bit hole saw and drill a hole through the top plate with it's side right at the side of the stud. I'd try to do this before the roof deck plywood is installed. But, if it has already been installed, I'd cut the hole. Using straps and plywood shims, I strap the pole to the rafter and to the 2x4 at the bottom end making sure that the pole is plumb. 12-16 inches would stick out above the roof deck. The roofer will use a standard 2 inch nominal pipe flashing. Right below the pipe on the wall next to the stud, I'd place a standard NEW WORK double gang box, with it's back cut out for easy access. Right on the roof, I'd place a black two inch nominal black vinyl rubber DWV plumbing cap commonly called a "FERNCO," since that was the orginal maker. It tightens and seals the end with a standard worm drive stainless steel hose clamp. If no roof has been installed, the roofers will supply and install the flashing.

I could use a weather head, but that's $13. The $3 "FERNCO" will allow cables to come through the pipe and double over to form drip loops. Then, it tightens with a screwdriver to seal out the weather.

Without a satellite dish mounted, the assembly looks like just any other plumbing vent.

To install the satellite dish, use the standard "J" pole with a couple of two inch nominal pipe hose clamps. After the initial prewire, you'd never need to enter the attic.

 

[Mark_R_G]

Thanks guys, this is exactly what I needed to know! About to upgrade from 2 lnb to 5lnb and putting back up my antenna for OTA HD and wanted to route the cables better than just over the eave of my house

 

[chadzx11]

Why would you run a wire directly inside through a roof at a residence? Did the NEC change something I am not aware of?

 

[Mark_R_G]

I'd bet in places that have community rules a lot probably have rules about where antennas can be mounted, where the cable can go, etc..

In my case, it's just for neatness. Currently have 2 sat cables, a sat radio cable, and a cable for HD ota coming down from the chimney where they're all mounted, over the eave/gutter of the roof and down the wall. A weatherhead with conduit would sure look a lot better.