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Thanks for all the comments. Found splitter. But I am still not pulling in anything that I wasn't before.
 
How about listing the transponders you do get. And what satellite they're on. Might shed some light. The most detailed descriptions usually result in the best probabilities of a cause to check. Like pictures on a troublesome install.
 
Thanks for all the comments. Found splitter. But I am still not pulling in anything that I wasn't before.
ok. there is a distinct possibility there are multiple problems at work here. dish alignment might still be an issue for example. fatair's correct .... about giving us details about what channels you do get and what channels you don't get will help us help you.
 
I have picked up random channels off many satellites. But many i cannot confirm which satellite, as they are not listed on Lyngsat. The only ones I can confirm are as follows. 87W:TP23, which isn't picking up anymore. 107W:TP10B. 121W.TP21. And the main satellite I want, 91W, I'm almost positive I have hit TP19, and there is another channel on same location, (different polarity), that is called Mediaset (Italian). I believe this is 91W because it is so close to 87W in reference to the location on analog receiver. Hope this can help you all, help me :). Thanks again
 
But many i cannot confirm which satellite, as they are not listed on Lyngsat
Freq and SR? Someone may recognize or take a look here: http://www.global-cm.net/mpeg2central.html
Lets narrow trying to figure out the "what's up" to one satellite for now. MediaSat is on 91. What other freqs-Polarity-SR here do you get? and which seem missing? List freq/pol/SR with your Quality reading.
Noticed you're using a LNB/Feedhorn - have you tried adjusting the skew with the analog receiver runing it?
I am new to satellites. I have a 7.5' Echostar mesh BUD. It came with the house. Hadn't done much with it since moving in
BTW: Have you string tested your dish? Tested to see if the feed is centered and 'square' to the dish? Measure dish and calculate the F/D and focal length and compare to measured? NOTE: this may be off an inch as there can be some measurement/physical variances 'built in'.
http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/222234-BUD-manual
 
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Thought of another thing to confirm. Is the servo in the feed working? (does the probe in the throat move 90° when changing polarity with the analog rcvr)
 
Probe is moving, already checked that. Haven't tried string test, will this weekend. Channels at -30 polarity are as follows: 4177/H/3000; 4113/H/31249; 4153/H&V/30000; 4073/H&V/30000. All are scrambled except Mediaset & 4177. Channels at 60 polarity: 4176/H&V/30000; 4097/H&V/31249; all scrambled. Basically all FTA channels except Mediaset are missing. Not sure if it makes a difference, but the only pattern I have noticed on not just 91W, but other sats, are all channels I have tuned are above 4000mhz. Is this just because they are stronger signals? And I haven't tried adjusting skew. Didn't want to "fiddle" with the guts to much until I knew it wasn't tuning properly.
 
What sat do you think you are pointing at?

4073/H&V/30000.
I noticed that you list both horizontal and vertical on same transponder freq.
If you are blind scanning with Polarotor Feedhorn, don't forget that it's "you" that has to change the polarity in the Analog receiver.
 
MediaSat is on satellite Galaxy 17 @ 91w, Frequency 4180, Polarity Vertical, Symbol Rate 30000. This is not the strongest transponder on the satellite.

138 TV and 43 Radio channels Free and Scrambled channels scan in on that satellite. A very strong transponder on the 91w satellite is the CW on 3720 / H / 28800. If you are not receiving the CW, there is a problem!

I notice that your LNB is drifted off frequency by 3mhz (MediaSet channel scans at 4177mhz and is really on 4180mhz). I would return the LNB since it is new and already off center frequency by 3mhz. This is maximum drift that is within typical factory specs.

I would suggest that you instead purchase a c-band only LNBF and bypass this frustration...
 
besides the LNB LO freq. Getting those others on both H and V suggests the probe is not rotating a full 90° between polarities. Tend to agree with SatelliteAV, a C band LNBF is the best solution to rid the frustration. (I did, and never looked back)
 
@ Lak7: Lnb is pulling in horizontal and vertical frequencies regardless of polarity setting. I have adjusted polarities to many different settings. 60 & -30 seem to be the constant on any sat.

This is not the lnb I ordered to start out w/, so I wasn't happy w/ it anyway. (Not from SatelliteAV btw) and yes Brian, I do believe this will be my next step. As you have said b4, its a huge pain adjusting polarity w/ analog receiver anyway. Thanks again for all the post guys. Will order lnbf soon. Let you all know what happens after that.

Edit: is there a certain brand lnbf you all would recommend buying?
 
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It sounds to me that you aren't changing polarity but just adjusting skew.Once you have the skews properly set,you change polarity by changing the channel (say from 1 to 2) on the analog receiver.Also note that adjacent satellites (2 degree spacing) will have opposite polarities.In other words,one sat has even numbered transponders vertical and sats on either side of it will have odd #'s vertical.
I could be mistaken in how I read your post,but that's how it sounded to me.
 
Hi guys, Ive been reading along with this thread, and Im thinking maybe you need to get back to the basics. The string test mentioned earlier is a must. Make sure that Bud is straight. I also noticed from one of the pictures that the feedhorn was removed at one time. If it was not returned to the same spot, your focal distance will be off (distance from the lnb to the dish). Also, When I first got my bud (used), even hough it was professionally installed a few miles away, the elevationn was way off. Fine for analog but a brick wall for S2. I would suggest starting from scratch. Start with a satellite as close to true south as possible and peak the dish. When you know its aimed properly then adjust your the focal point of the feedhorn. You can lose a lot of signal if that is off. Also you may want to make sure that your feedhorn is pointed to the center of the dish.

There has been a lot of good advice here, but you may as well start from scratch so there wont be any second guessing. Besides you will need the experience for when you set up your ten footer. I have one with Ku and a corotor and it puts my one meter ku dish to shame. Especially in the rain. PIA to switch polarity but you get used to it.
 
Lnb is pulling in horizontal and vertical frequencies regardless of polarity setting.
Only possible if the Servo Motor on the Feedhorn is not working.

I may not be understanding your posts, but....
Keep in mind that an FTA receiver is not Plug N Play...... it does not know that it can't control the Polarity, so when scanning, it will report what it thinks is happening .... that's why you are getting the same exact TP freq on different polarities.

In the FTA receiver, if you are getting a nice "Quality" reading on any TP, then change the channel in the Analog receiver from odd to even, or even to odd. You should loose the signal on the FTA receiver because it changed the polarity.
 
Only possible if the Servo Motor on the Feedhorn is not working.

Ive seen this happen before with a strong transponder and an old lna (low noise amplifier). The receiver may lock with the wrong polarity, but generally the channel wont be viewable.
 
I have had good results with a BSC421. hypermegasat has them.

I used the BSC621 for a while and it worked well for except on some of the weaker DCII signals where a slight polarity adjustment would stop a lot of pixelation. Thats why I switched to a corotor and norsat lnbs. You can still find this stuff pretty cheap on Ebay.
 
Being a BSC621 is a 'dual band' there's some compromise on performance to accommodate getting both bands. Think you'd have seen an improvement with a C band only LNBF. Corotor is fine if you don't mind being inconvenienced with running the polarity independent of the FTA bo:mad:unless a Pansat 9500, or 'inline' solution is utilized)
KISS theory says a LNBF** is the easiest, foolproof way to operate. Like I've said many times, I removed the LNB/feedhorn assy, and put on an LNBF, and never looked back. (It worked good, just very inconvenient)
Same could be said for an ORTHOMODE / multiswitch set up. Just more complex.
 
Well I wanted ku on the Bud. I had some signal problems with AMC 9 because it is so close to Nimiq 4 (was nimiq 2 back then). Thats just one more instance of bigger being better. Though I still have that lnbf, and will use it again when I set up my Bud at the cabin.
 
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