What is needed to swap 4K Joey for second (owned) H3? (1 Viewer)

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david_jr

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May 7, 2007
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Hancock, MA - The Berkshires

Is this the correct yoke? Can't seem to get reliable info as to whether it is good for eastern arc. Have seem some that say western arc only, many that don't mention an arc and only a couple say good for both arcs. This is part number 144577. Also seems some come with screws and some don't. Looks like another week before I can hook up my H3.
 
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ethanlerma

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Jul 1, 2021
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Is this the correct yoke? Can't seem to get reliable info as to whether it is good for eastern arc. Have seem some that say western arc only, many that don't mention an arc and only a couple say good for both arcs. This is part number 144577. Also seems some come with screws and some don't. Looks like another week before I can hook up my H3.
Yep, that's correct. Some say that because 1000.2 (what you have) used to be exclusively for WA, but that's not the case anymore. The LNB you posted is a 1000.2, so it will fit. The screws on the yoke you have now should be the same, but I would get the extra ones for spares/just in case.
 
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HipKat

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Aug 25, 2017
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Pekin, IL

Is this the correct yoke? Can't seem to get reliable info as to whether it is good for eastern arc. Have seem some that say western arc only, many that don't mention an arc and only a couple say good for both arcs. This is part number 144577. Also seems some come with screws and some don't. Looks like another week before I can hook up my H3.


In the series of pics you posted earlier, you have a DPH Slim Line LNBF, which is what we get now instead of the older style and does require a different yolk so this one pictured is what you need for your DPP LNBF
 
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david_jr

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May 7, 2007
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Ok I am back to update this thread on my upgrade. I got delayed a bit because I went to ebay to look at the yokes and back and forth to Amazon and Solid Signal and thought I had settled on the one on ebay and thought I had ordered it only to check a few days later and find I HADN'T ordered it! So I did order it and had to wait for several days for it to go from North Carolina to Western Massachusetts. Once I got it of course our rainiest summer in memory continued and finally got a day that weather was good and I had the time on Thursday. I already had most everything that I could wired up ahead of time, or at least in place and just had to switch some wires over from my solo hub to the new DPH42 switch, power inserter and duo hub. First up on the roof to replace the LNB now that I finally had the proper yoke. Took the old LNB off and see that it had one satellite feed connected and the tech that installed it had left a broken crimp on coax connector on the second port. No harm, no foul. So I removed the old LNB, the old yoke and replaced with the new yoke, LNB and connected both coax wires to ports one and two on the new LNB. Now down to the basement where I have my equipment board. I removed the satellite feed from the solo hub and place it on port one satellite in on the DPH 42. Then I took second satellite feed that had previously been disconnected when I upgraded to DPH LNB and was just hanging there to port two satellite in on DPH42. I then ran a coax line from port one receiver satellite in to the power inserter. Then I ran a short coax from the power inserter to ODU1 on the duo hub. Then I ran a coax from port two receiver satellite in and connected it to ODU2 on the new duo hub. I took the coax line that was feeding the original H3 from the solo hub and placed on To Host/Client ADV on the ODU1 side of the duo hub. Then I took the coax that used to run to the J4K in MB from the solo hub and placed it on To Host/Client ADV on the ODU2 side of the duo hub. This is now feeding the new H3 in the Master Bedroom. Then I took the Kitchen J4K coax line from the solo hub and placed it on the center To Client/HVN port of the duo hub, which continues to serve the kitchen 4KJ. Plugged in the power inserter and off to the new H3 to call for activation. I took dweber's advice in another second H3 activation process thread and called Dish Loyalty at 888-496-1260 during business hours Mountain Time and got through within two or three minutes. I was a bit nervous at first because the agent I spoke to had a heavy accent, but he knew what he was doing. First he wanted to make me offers for retention. I told him that the reason for my call was that I wanted to activate an owned H3 in place of a 4KJ and return the 4KJ. He happily began the process, asked me receiver numbers etc. and in about ten minutes or so he had the process completed. He told me it would take up to 30 minutes to be activated. So I went to original H3 and of course there was no signal so I did the check switch and when it finished the programming appeared and it said the check switch passed and reported the DPH42 switch in place. Programming now came back up on 4KJ in kitchen which is connected to that H3. Back to MB and ran a check switch on new H3 and bang it is working perfectly. Spent some time pairing remotes, changing settings and so forth, but was unable to restore my timers from the remotes. I backed them up to all three remotes I had, but the wizard would not work and I tried it several times with each remote standing directly in front of the H3. It said that it could only be done with a 20.x or 21.x remote. I have never had such remotes for my H3 or 4KJs so I don't know why it would say that. I had 2 40.0 remotes and one 54.0. No joy. Other than that it is nice to have my PIP and swap back at MB TV and for whatever reason the H3 just seems a bit more responsive to commands than the 4KJ did and the Kitchen 4KJ has been the same way. So thanks to all who helped me and now I just have to find the time to watch everything that I record.
 

david_jr

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May 7, 2007
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