I need info on new hopper plus

[pattykay]

this was a rush to market incident.

Rush to market? These were already delayed by two months. (Originally announced as mid-July release)

Sorry for the rant but I have been with Dish since 2007

Hello, newbie. I have been with Dish since 1999. Hope you stick around awhile.

 

[pattykay]

Anyone who has seen AP or YT on a streaming box or TV will view the H3 performance in this area as substandard.

Don't forget Netflix, every Dolby Vision encoded show/movie is being upconverted to HDR10!!!!

Amazon Prime on the Android boxes is MUCH better.

H3 performance in the Pandora app is definitely substandard. Has anyone tried Pandora with the Android boxes yet? Start playing Phil Collins Radio, and see if any of his songs suddenly skip to the end, especially songs that are longer than five minutes. (There are plenty of other artists with the same issue, but that is the station where I seem to notice this the most often.)

 

[Bobby]

OK, one last time, in the Hopper+ configuration, there is a USB cable that goes from the Hopper 3 to the Hopper+ and an HDMI cable that goes from the Hopper+ to the TV, no HDMI cable at all in the Hopper 3. In the Hopper 3 alone configuration there is an HDMI cable that goes from the Hopper 3 to the TV and there is no USB cable used. Both the Hopper 3 and the Hopper+ have one HDMI output and no HDMI inputs. Is that clear enough...

 

[drwatson618]

I have to agree with Scott. Dish is not forcing existing customers to get a Hopper+ or Joey4. Nobody has any patience anymore. I believe that eventually the chip set will release a driver that handles HDR content correctly. Like Scott said a lot of Android boxes have the same problem.
Meanwhile I am enjoying my two Hopper3 and Joey3 receivers. They are working well.

Dish is not forcing this, but they are leaving out known information and of course anyone on the phone will have no clue.

And they say multi-view is “coming soon.” I bet it never comes.

I’m also in the boat with a 4K-Joey that now is really just a Joey. And was never informed about it. I had to pay extra for the inferior Joey also.

I was a Dish customer for over 20 years and left for about 2 years. I have about a year left on my contract and will probably leave again.

There is more 4K content out there that I would like to see on Dish. Why is it that I can stream GoT and House of Dragons in 4K on HBO Max, but I can’t watch it in 4K on my Hopper (this is rhetorical, I know the answer)?

As more and more 4K programming becomes available, Dish will continue to lag behind. Their solution is to get you to stream it. But streaming it with their equipment disables some of the features that makes their equipment better than others. Adding Hopper + isn’t adding a high end streaming device. Nearly every streaming device out there is better than the Hopper +.

 

[Partysox]

That is great, as long as you have at least two HDMI inputs free. What if my TV only has one HDMI input available? That is why I would still like to know if an HDMI switch is a viable option, or if putting a switch in the system would screw up the connection somehow.

You can use a switch make sure to use a 4K switch not a 1080p switch.

 

[pattykay]

OK, one last time, in the Hopper+ configuration, there is a USB cable that goes from the Hopper 3 to the Hopper+ and an HDMI cable that goes from the Hopper+ to the TV, no HDMI cable at all in the Hopper 3. In the Hopper 3 alone configuration there is an HDMI cable that goes from the Hopper 3 to the TV and there is no USB cable used. Both the Hopper 3 and the Hopper+ have one HDMI output and no HDMI inputs. Is that clear enough...

Okay, so if I understand this correctly, the Hopper+ works as a pass-through box even without power. When the Hopper+ is unplugged, then the video from the Hopper 3 passes through the USB cable, and goes to the TV through the HDMI cable. The only difference is that the Hopper 3 cannot detect the Hopper+, so it reverts to normal Hopper 3 mode. Do I have that right?

 

[charlesrshell]

OK, one last time, in the Hopper+ configuration, there is a USB cable that goes from the Hopper 3 to the Hopper+ and an HDMI cable that goes from the Hopper+ to the TV, no HDMI cable at all in the Hopper 3. In the Hopper 3 alone configuration there is an HDMI cable that goes from the Hopper 3 to the TV and there is no USB cable used. Both the Hopper 3 and the Hopper+ have one HDMI output and no HDMI inputs. Is that clear enough...

Got it.

Thank you!!! (and Thanks to whomever sent you that suggestion, too!)

I have a modulator with which I have to do exactly that, in order to get it to switch from the Dish receiver (connected via red/white/yellow composite cables) to whatever I have connected to the modulator's coaxial input, due to the Dish receiver always outputting a signal on those cables, even while in standby. (The modulator is supposed to switch automatically to the composite input when there is a signal, and then switch back to coaxial when that device is turned off.)

Rather than unplug the modulator all of the time, I simplified this by plugging it into a switched plug unit that is controlled by a remote control. Now, I can just press a button on that outlet's remote to switch back-and-forth. It sounds like the same solution may work for switching between Hopper+ and Hopper 3. The only difference is that the modulator switches instantly, while the Hopper 3 requires a 20-minute wait afterward.

I have a HDMI to coax modulator. Is why I am using a HDMI 2x4 switch, two HDMI in four HDMI out. Two inputs are my Hopper and Fire Stick. Only using two of the outputs, TV and HDMI modulator. I guess I will be getting a HDMI 4x4 switch. Need additional input for the Hopper+. The HDMI switch has a remote control. So I will just select the Hopper when needed, unplug the Hopper+ USB cable, and then reboot the Hopper. I wonder if the Joeys will need a reboot too!

 

[pattykay]

Okay, so if I understand this correctly, the Hopper+ works as a pass-through box even without power. When the Hopper+ is unplugged, then the video from the Hopper 3 passes through the USB cable, and goes to the TV through the HDMI cable. The only difference is that the Hopper 3 cannot detect the Hopper+, so it reverts to normal Hopper 3 mode. Do I have that right?

Okay, never mind. This would still require either a separate HDMI connection directly from the Hopper 3 to another input, or an HDMI switch, I guess.

 

[Bobby]

Okay, so if I understand this correctly, the Hopper+ works as a pass-through box even without power. When the Hopper+ is unplugged, then the video from the Hopper 3 passes through the USB cable, and goes to the TV through the HDMI cable. The only difference is that the Hopper 3 cannot detect the Hopper+, so it reverts to normal Hopper 3 mode. Do I have that right?

No you don't have that right. If the H+ is unplugged it can not pass anything through because it won't see anything on the USB side because its electronics are dead. Does your computer monitor see the internet when you unplug the computer even though the modem has power and is sending a signal to the dead computer.

 

[pattykay]

No you don't have that right. If the H+ is unplugged it can not pass anything through because it won't see anything on the USB side because its electronics are dead. Does your computer monitor see the internet when you unplug the computer even though the modem has power and is sending a signal to the dead computer.

You missed my "never mind" post above. I was thinking that maybe the Hopper+ could be powered through the USB cable somehow, since it is an accessory. Not enough power to function for the Android stuff, but enough to pass-through the video somehow from the Hopper 3. In your analogy, that would be more like unplugging the Hopper 3, not the Hopper+. With the Hopper 3 unplugged, obviously nothing is going to work. I was thinking of a scenario where the Hopper 3 is plugged into power, but the Hopper+ is unplugged. Then I rethought it, based on other posts, and posted a correction. Hopefully, that updated post is correct now.

 

[Partysox]

Got it.

I have a HDMI to coax modulator. Is why I am using a HDMI 2x4 switch, two HDMI in four HDMI out. Two inputs are my Hopper and Fire Stick. Only using two of the outputs, TV and HDMI modulator. I guess I will be getting a HDMI 4x4 switch. Need additional input for the Hopper+. The HDMI switch has a remote control. So I will just select the Hopper when needed, unplug the Hopper+ USB cable, and then reboot the Hopper. I wonder if the Joeys will need a reboot too!

If already Dish costumers can just get Joeys just get a WJ4 and skip the H+, you would have a extra remote tho.

 

[clone1008]

Their solution is to get you to stream it.

No actually it's worse than that. Their solution is to upscale everything to HDR and call it 4K.

 

[clone1008]

Dish is not forcing this, but they are leaving out known information and of course anyone on the phone will have no clue.

You're replying to someone who's setup includes Joey3 receivers. Of course he's satisfied.

 

[clone1008]

Rush to market? These were already delayed by two months. (Originally announced as mid-July release)


Hello, newbie. I have been with Dish since 1999. Hope you stick around awhile.

So if they were delayed by 2 months my statement is even more valid. Also you've been with dish for 8 years longer than me, sorry I'm such a newbie to you Old Timers.

 

[Bobby]

So if they were delayed by 2 months my statement is even more valid. Also you've been with dish for 3 years longer than me, sorry I'm such a newbie to you Old Timers.

He said 1999, you said 2007. That's 8 years using my basic arithmetic....

 

[clone1008]

He said 1999, you said 2007. That's 8 years using my basic arithmetic....

Yeah I made the correction to my post. Actually I've been with Dish since 2002 but I waited too long and couldn't edit that post to correct it.

 

[bookworm370]

No you don't have that right. If the H+ is unplugged it can not pass anything through because it won't see anything on the USB side because its electronics are dead. Does your computer monitor see the internet when you unplug the computer even though the modem has power and is sending a signal to the dead computer.

Well then that's just a crappy design issue with the H+ isn't it? My Denon X4500 AVR has a passthrough port that anything that is plugged into HDMI 1 on the receiver is passed directly through to the TV even if the amp is powered off or UNPLUGGED. I know because I've tried it. No matter what input the AVR is actually processing, if you pull the plug it will take whatever input is on it's HDMI 1 and feed to to HDMI Monitor Out (it has two HDMI outs, but only Monitor Out is defaulted to HDMI 1 when the receiver has to power).

The engineers at Denon/Marantz sort of understand that the high powered AVR can blow an internal fuse or (like in my case) I have the receiver on one UPS and the TV and H3 on another UPS. When the battery on the UPS that feeds the receiver goes dead, TV is not dead in the water. The Sony OLED will take the input from Denons HDMI 1 (which happens to be the Hopper) and the auto audio switching in the TV will switch from external audio to internal audio on the TV seamlessly. That way the wife can still watch her shows (just has to remember to use a different remote for the volume) while I either get home or order some new batteries.

So, maybe Dish should have hired some electrical engineers that can think more than 3 steps ahead. New equipment like the H+ can have some serious infant mortality rates and everything going into the crapper if it craps out is just asking for a customer service nightmare.

So no, just because power is out (to the receiver (computer in your example) there is no reason to make it a bottleneck. You can easily confirm by just downloading the Denon / Marantz user manuals where they talk about fallback / default HDMI modes.

 

[Bobby]

Well then that's just a crappy design issue with the H+ isn't it? My Denon X4500 AVR has a passthrough port that anything that is plugged into HDMI 1 on the receiver is passed directly through to the TV even if the amp is powered off or UNPLUGGED. I know because I've tried it. No matter what input the AVR is actually processing, if you pull the plug it will take whatever input is on it's HDMI 1 and feed to to HDMI Monitor Out (it has two HDMI outs, but only Monitor Out is defaulted to HDMI 1 when the receiver has to power).

The engineers at Denon/Marantz sort of understand that the high powered AVR can blow an internal fuse or (like in my case) I have the receiver on one UPS and the TV and H3 on another UPS. When the battery on the UPS that feeds the receiver goes dead, TV is not dead in the water. The Sony OLED will take the input from Denons HDMI 1 (which happens to be the Hopper) and the auto audio switching in the TV will switch from external audio to internal audio on the TV seamlessly. That way the wife can still watch her shows (just has to remember to use a different remote for the volume) while I either get home or order some new batteries.

So, maybe Dish should have hired some electrical engineers that can think more than 3 steps ahead. New equipment like the H+ can have some serious infant mortality rates and everything going into the crapper if it craps out is just asking for a customer service nightmare.

So no, just because power is out (to the receiver (computer in your example) there is no reason to make it a bottleneck. You can easily confirm by just downloading the Denon / Marantz user manuals where they talk about fallback / default HDMI modes.

That passthrough, and I have a Denon that does just that, is HDMI to HDMI, not USB to HDMI.

 

[bookworm370]

That passthrough, and I have a Denon that does just that, is HDMI to HDMI, not USB to HDMI.

Correct, as Denon doesn't even have a USB port that would be correct. But no reason to loose picture and sound if the H+ is unplugged, right?

 

[clone1008]

Correct, as Denon doesn't even have a USB port that would be correct. But no reason to loose picture and sound if the H+ is unplugged, right?

Wouldn't that depend on if the Hopper Plus comes with HDMI passthrough? Comparing a high end AVR's capabilities to the Hopper Plus is a bit of a stretch.