I need info on new hopper plus

[Scott Greczkowski]

Yes USB cable as well that connects between the Hopper 3 and Hopper Plus.

 

[Bobby]

You posted...
"Will everything function OK if both Hopper 3 HDMI cable and Hopper Plus HDMI cable attached to TV by two different TV HDMI inputs? And without having to disconnect anything or rebooting?"

No. the Hopper 3 HDMI cable goes into the Hopper Plus, then HDMI comes out of the Hopper Plus to the TV.

So what you are saying is the HDMI cable that goes TV is moved from the H3 to the H+. The way you have worded it sounds like there is an in and out HDMI on the H3.

 

[Scott Greczkowski]

correct. I will have to try taking some pictures when I get a chance.

 

[charlesrshell]

You posted...
"Will everything function OK if both Hopper 3 HDMI cable and Hopper Plus HDMI cable attached to TV by two different TV HDMI inputs? And without having to disconnect anything or rebooting?"

No. the Hopper 3 HDMI cable goes into the Hopper Plus, then HDMI comes out of the Hopper Plus to the TV.

I am not too good with wording. See if this makes better since.

One HDMI cable from Hopper+ attached to TV HDMI #1 input.
A second HDMI cable from Hopper HDMI output attached to TV HDMI #2 input.
Keep both HDMI cables attached.
To go from operational Hopper+ setup to just the Hopper operation:
1. In TV settings from HDMI Hopper+ HDMI input #1, select Hopper input #2.
2. Unplug the Hopper+ USB cable.
3. Reboot the Hopper.
This would make things a little faster if you have both HDMI cables attached.

 

[Scott Greczkowski]

Again no. as the Hopper 3 feeds through the Hopper Plus.
In order to come out of Hopper Plus mode the HDMI out (which is going to your TV on HDMI 1) from the Hopper Plus would need to be unplugged from the Hopper Plus and plugged into the Hopper 3 (and the HDMI that is in there now which is connected to the Hopper plus must be unplugged.)

In addition the USB cable going from the Hopper 3 to the Hopper Plus must be unplugged from the Hopper 3. This stop the communication between the two devices and ultimately causes the Hopper 3 to reboot
to go back in Hopper 3 mode. (over time)

Think of the Hopper Plus as a pass through box.

 

[Scott Greczkowski]

Someone just contacted me and told me an easier way to switch between the two...

"You do know that you run a HDMI cable to a input for the H+ and another HDMI cable from the H3 to another input and just unplug the power brick to switch back to the H3 and then just plug the brick back in to go back to the H+, you don't have to unplug the USB cable at all. "

I can't do that myself as the power brick is behind a dresser, but awesome suggestion. (THANK YOU!)

 

[charlesrshell]

Again no. as the Hopper 3 feeds through the Hopper Plus.
In order to come out of Hopper Plus mode the HDMI out (which is going to your TV on HDMI 1) from the Hopper Plus would need to be unplugged from the Hopper Plus and plugged into the Hopper 3 (and the HDMI that is in there now which is connected to the Hopper plus must be unplugged.)

In addition the USB cable going from the Hopper 3 to the Hopper Plus must be unplugged from the Hopper 3. This stop the communication between the two devices and ultimately causes the Hopper 3 to reboot
to go back in Hopper 3 mode. (over time)

Think of the Hopper Plus as a pass through box.

I understand what you are saying. In my scenario there is two HDMI cables. One from the Hopper+ and one from the Hopper, both going to two different TV HDMI inputs. If I select the TV HDMI input that has the Hopper attached (not the Hopper+) unplug the Hopper+ USB the Hopper+ is completely out of the setup.

 

[Scott Greczkowski]

I understand what you are saying. In my scenario there is two HDMI cables. One from the Hopper+ and one from the Hopper, both going to two different TV HDMI inputs. If I select the TV HDMI input that has the Hopper attached (not the Hopper+) unplug the Hopper+ USB the Hopper+ is completely out of the setup.

Yes that is correct.

I am thinking about doing a live video one night where I can take and answer questions and show you guys.

 

[clone1008]

I can't do that myself as the power brick is behind a dresser,

You can accomplish the same thing by unplugging the power cord from the back of the Hopper Plus instead.

 

[charlesrshell]

Someone just contacted me and told me an easier way to switch between the two...

"You do know that you run a HDMI cable to a input for the H+ and another HDMI cable from the H3 to another input and just unplug the power brick to switch back to the H3 and then just plug the brick back in to go back to the H+, you don't have to unplug the USB cable at all. "

I can't do that myself as the power brick is behind a dresser, but awesome suggestion. (THANK YOU!)

WOW awesome, thanks. Unplugging the Hopper+ from the front Hopper USB port would be easier than unplugging your power brick.

 

[Scott Greczkowski]

You can accomplish the same thing by unplugging the power cord from the back of the Hopper Plus instead.

I have been unplugging all three. Worried about frying these things by accident.

 

[clone1008]

I have been unplugging all three. Worried about frying these things by accident.

I can understand your worry. I think the bigger chance of issues in the long run could be a software glitch at some point from taking the Hopper 3 in and out of it's mode to work with the Hopper Plus.

 

[charlesrshell]

I can understand your worry. I think the bigger chance of issues in the long run could be a software glitch at some point from taking the Hopper 3 in and out of it's mode to work with the Hopper Plus.

Yep I hear ya. I don't really use PIP or Multiview that much. My main concern is if the Hopper+ starts to act up I want to bypass it and put the Hopper back into original operation ASAP. My "Commander of the War Department" would be on my --s big time.

 

[pattykay]

Someone just contacted me and told me an easier way to switch between the two...

"You do know that you run a HDMI cable to a input for the H+ and another HDMI cable from the H3 to another input and just unplug the power brick to switch back to the H3 and then just plug the brick back in to go back to the H+, you don't have to unplug the USB cable at all. "

I can't do that myself as the power brick is behind a dresser, but awesome suggestion. (THANK YOU!)

Thank you!!! (and Thanks to whomever sent you that suggestion, too!)

I have a modulator with which I have to do exactly that, in order to get it to switch from the Dish receiver (connected via red/white/yellow composite cables) to whatever I have connected to the modulator's coaxial input, due to the Dish receiver always outputting a signal on those cables, even while in standby. (The modulator is supposed to switch automatically to the composite input when there is a signal, and then switch back to coaxial when that device is turned off.)

Rather than unplug the modulator all of the time, I simplified this by plugging it into a switched plug unit that is controlled by a remote control. Now, I can just press a button on that outlet's remote to switch back-and-forth. It sounds like the same solution may work for switching between Hopper+ and Hopper 3. The only difference is that the modulator switches instantly, while the Hopper 3 requires a 20-minute wait afterward.

 

[pattykay]

I am not too good with wording. See if this makes better since.

One HDMI cable from Hopper+ attached to TV HDMI #1 input.
A second HDMI cable from Hopper HDMI output attached to TV HDMI #2 input.
Keep both HDMI cables attached.
To go from operational Hopper+ setup to just the Hopper operation:
1. In TV settings from HDMI Hopper+ HDMI input #1, select Hopper input #2.
2. Unplug the Hopper+ USB cable.
3. Reboot the Hopper.
This would make things a little faster if you have both HDMI cables attached.

That is great, as long as you have at least two HDMI inputs free. What if my TV only has one HDMI input available? That is why I would still like to know if an HDMI switch is a viable option, or if putting a switch in the system would screw up the connection somehow.

 

[pattykay]

So what you are saying is the HDMI cable that goes TV is moved from the H3 to the H+. The way you have worded it sounds like there is an in and out HDMI on the H3.

...in and out on the H+, not the H3, but yes that is what it sounds like.

correct. I will have to try taking some pictures when I get a chance.

Which is correct? Does the single HDMI cable get moved from the H3 (in Hopper mode) to the H+ (in H+ mode) [Hopper+ connected to Hopper 3 via USB only] or is there also an HDMI cable connecting the H3 to the H+ [Hopper+ has both an HDMI input and an HDMI output]?

Okay, I see your other post. It looks like there is an HDMI cable connecting the Hopper 3 to the Hopper+:

In order to come out of Hopper Plus mode the HDMI out (which is going to your TV on HDMI 1) from the Hopper Plus would need to be unplugged from the Hopper Plus and plugged into the Hopper 3 (and the HDMI that is in there now which is connected to the Hopper plus must be unplugged.)

 

[pattykay]

No.
Once the Hopper Plus is hooked up it is meant to remain hooked up. This is why there is a 20 minute reset period to try keeping people from doing it.

This is why if you use MultiView I do not recommend a Hopper Plus.

Well, I guess the next logical question would be: when is there going to be a new Hopper with Multi-View, with the Android interface built-in, so there is no need to use the pass-through box? (Assuming that the pass-through is the reason why Multi-View won't work on these.)

 

[charlesrshell]

...in and out on the H+, not the H3, but yes that is what it sounds like.


Which is correct? Does the single HDMI cable get moved from the H3 (in Hopper mode) to the H+ (in H+ mode) [Hopper+ connected to Hopper 3 via USB only] or is there also an HDMI cable connecting the H3 to the H+ [Hopper+ has both an HDMI input and an HDMI output]?

Okay, I see your other post. It looks like there is an HDMI cable connecting the Hopper 3 to the Hopper+:

USB connects the Hopper to the Hopper+

 

[pattykay]

I have to agree with Scott. Dish is not forcing existing customers to get a Hopper+ or Joey4.

Unless you want 4K at your Joey location. In that case, a Joey 4 is required, since the existing 4K Joey will no longer work for 4K at all. (Side note: who named these devices? Joey 4 is way too similar to 4K Joey. So, the uninitiated may get confused.)

 

[pattykay]

It is what it is. Ranting about it over and over again is not going to do good, everyone is just going to put you put you on ignore and tune you out.

not everyone