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Hey,
Recently I went and purchased a 22 KHZ Tone Inserter from Dave's Web Shop (and USPS took 12 days to ship it... urgh). Now what is a 22 KHZ Tone Inserter and how does this work with Dish Network. Basically, it is a tiny device with an on - off switch, when on it generates a 22 KHZ tone, which is used my many integrated LNB's (that are not Dish Pro), such as the new DirecTV Phase III Integrated Switch, for the 20x18 Dish. Being a customer of both DirecTV and Dish Network, I am in the position where I want as few dish's on the roof as possible with as many signals as possible. Here is what I have on the roof,
1 18' Round Dual LNB Dish pointed at 61.5
1 20' Dish500 Twin LNB pointed at both 110/119
1 20x18 Phase III Integrated LNB pointed at 101/109.8/119
The 61.5 and 110/119 is combined via an SW21 into my Dish Network 2800 Reciever.
The 4 Outputs on the Phase III dish are sent to a Terk BMS-58 22 KHZ Integrated Multiswitch (5 Input --> 8 Output). In actuallity, there is only 5 outputs that are in constant use, with 2 Outputs that are ran to the basement for any future development that is done down their (may go and build a new bedroom or game room) with the final output not in use running to the office, where there is already an output for a Directv RCA 420.
Now back to the 22 KHZ Tone Inserter. DirecTV uses standered 13V/18V for its 101 Satellite and recievers that are considered 'DTV+' have the ability to send a 13V/22KHZ or 18V/22KHZ Tone down the line to tell the Phase III Dish to switch from the 101 to 109.8/119 location. Most multiswitches block the 22KHZ tones, however the BMS-58 has it integrated in to the reciever to allow it to pass. Since Dish Network recievers are unable to send the proper 13V/22KHZ or 18V/22KHZ tone to the Phase III dish, we typically can't use the Phase III DirecTV dish's for Dish Network. Hence, if you want one dish you are forced to use the Torriedal Superdish with its Reversed Poliarities LNB, but the sizes start at just over 1/2 a Meter Wide. Alternativly, you can get an older DirecTV Phase I or Directv Phase II Dish, which uses a 'W' Bracket and older Legacy LNB's with switches to combine the signal. These work flawlessly with both DirecTV and Dish Network. However, if you can find these, they retail for about $150 USD (at least the ones I have found). In turn, the newer Phase III dishes are as low as $40 USD (which is what I paid for mine at a local flea market that was going out of business). Thus, we use the 22 KHZ Tone Inserter to send 13V/22 KHZ or 18V/22KHZ Tone down the line to the Phase III Dish to tell it to go to the 119 location for Dish Network. This doesn't work for the 109.8 or 110 location, as DirecTV uses a non-standard LNB for this location (Called Sat-C).
So I took the extra feed for the Phase III 101/109.8/119, added the 22 KHZ Tone Inserter and set it to the On Position. I connected it to the SW-21 with the 61.5 still connected. In an interesting result, the 2800 detected a signal on the line with the Tone Inserter however it said it was 110 Echostar, not 119 Echostar. This caught me off guard. I went and did a Check Switch, which detected the SW-21 with 61.5 on port 1 and 119 on port 2. However the satellite signal meter still said there was a signal on the 110 and not the 119. (Note: Signal Strength Difference between the Phase III and the Dish500 was mid 70's on Phase III vs. low 100's on Dish500, which is still useable).
Went and acquired a new program guide and it only downloaded the 119 channels, which worked fine.
What does this mean? I plan to go back up on the roof later this week and take down the Dish500 Twin LNB and replace it with either a Dual LNB or an 18' Round Dish and Dual LNB pointed at 110 only. I will then use a SW-21 and SW-21x to bring the 3 Signals together. I may also go and try a SW-64 I recently found, however that will require running several additional wires.
My main concern is why the 2800 detected it as the 110 location and now 119. I am not sure, but my hypothesis is that the 2800 uses a 22 KHZ Tone as well to detect if it is a 110 or 119, although when it goes to download from the program guide it gets the proper data. I am not sure what the reciever will do if it has two different signals from the 110 coming it, but as long as the Check Switch works, I think it will be fine. I will post results when I do it.
If anyone is asking what is the purpose. Well it was a fun and easy test with a minimal cost. Furthermore, I may be able to keep some heat off of me for having 3 dish's on the roof by getting a (albeit) smaller dish out there. Finally, there are some rooms where I don't want to add additional wiring for a Dish Network reciever and want to maintain the DirecTV reciever as well. I would be willing to go and only obtain programming off of the 119 in those rooms from Echostar and use a A/B Switch to choose what reciever will get the feed from the Phase III.
There are other possibilities I am sure as well.
This may work rather well for some who have their locals on the 119 satellite and don't order PPV's.
It was a fun test, I will post pictures and results of the upcoming tests when they happen.
Recently I went and purchased a 22 KHZ Tone Inserter from Dave's Web Shop (and USPS took 12 days to ship it... urgh). Now what is a 22 KHZ Tone Inserter and how does this work with Dish Network. Basically, it is a tiny device with an on - off switch, when on it generates a 22 KHZ tone, which is used my many integrated LNB's (that are not Dish Pro), such as the new DirecTV Phase III Integrated Switch, for the 20x18 Dish. Being a customer of both DirecTV and Dish Network, I am in the position where I want as few dish's on the roof as possible with as many signals as possible. Here is what I have on the roof,
1 18' Round Dual LNB Dish pointed at 61.5
1 20' Dish500 Twin LNB pointed at both 110/119
1 20x18 Phase III Integrated LNB pointed at 101/109.8/119
The 61.5 and 110/119 is combined via an SW21 into my Dish Network 2800 Reciever.
The 4 Outputs on the Phase III dish are sent to a Terk BMS-58 22 KHZ Integrated Multiswitch (5 Input --> 8 Output). In actuallity, there is only 5 outputs that are in constant use, with 2 Outputs that are ran to the basement for any future development that is done down their (may go and build a new bedroom or game room) with the final output not in use running to the office, where there is already an output for a Directv RCA 420.
Now back to the 22 KHZ Tone Inserter. DirecTV uses standered 13V/18V for its 101 Satellite and recievers that are considered 'DTV+' have the ability to send a 13V/22KHZ or 18V/22KHZ Tone down the line to tell the Phase III Dish to switch from the 101 to 109.8/119 location. Most multiswitches block the 22KHZ tones, however the BMS-58 has it integrated in to the reciever to allow it to pass. Since Dish Network recievers are unable to send the proper 13V/22KHZ or 18V/22KHZ tone to the Phase III dish, we typically can't use the Phase III DirecTV dish's for Dish Network. Hence, if you want one dish you are forced to use the Torriedal Superdish with its Reversed Poliarities LNB, but the sizes start at just over 1/2 a Meter Wide. Alternativly, you can get an older DirecTV Phase I or Directv Phase II Dish, which uses a 'W' Bracket and older Legacy LNB's with switches to combine the signal. These work flawlessly with both DirecTV and Dish Network. However, if you can find these, they retail for about $150 USD (at least the ones I have found). In turn, the newer Phase III dishes are as low as $40 USD (which is what I paid for mine at a local flea market that was going out of business). Thus, we use the 22 KHZ Tone Inserter to send 13V/22 KHZ or 18V/22KHZ Tone down the line to the Phase III Dish to tell it to go to the 119 location for Dish Network. This doesn't work for the 109.8 or 110 location, as DirecTV uses a non-standard LNB for this location (Called Sat-C).
So I took the extra feed for the Phase III 101/109.8/119, added the 22 KHZ Tone Inserter and set it to the On Position. I connected it to the SW-21 with the 61.5 still connected. In an interesting result, the 2800 detected a signal on the line with the Tone Inserter however it said it was 110 Echostar, not 119 Echostar. This caught me off guard. I went and did a Check Switch, which detected the SW-21 with 61.5 on port 1 and 119 on port 2. However the satellite signal meter still said there was a signal on the 110 and not the 119. (Note: Signal Strength Difference between the Phase III and the Dish500 was mid 70's on Phase III vs. low 100's on Dish500, which is still useable).
Went and acquired a new program guide and it only downloaded the 119 channels, which worked fine.
What does this mean? I plan to go back up on the roof later this week and take down the Dish500 Twin LNB and replace it with either a Dual LNB or an 18' Round Dish and Dual LNB pointed at 110 only. I will then use a SW-21 and SW-21x to bring the 3 Signals together. I may also go and try a SW-64 I recently found, however that will require running several additional wires.
My main concern is why the 2800 detected it as the 110 location and now 119. I am not sure, but my hypothesis is that the 2800 uses a 22 KHZ Tone as well to detect if it is a 110 or 119, although when it goes to download from the program guide it gets the proper data. I am not sure what the reciever will do if it has two different signals from the 110 coming it, but as long as the Check Switch works, I think it will be fine. I will post results when I do it.
If anyone is asking what is the purpose. Well it was a fun and easy test with a minimal cost. Furthermore, I may be able to keep some heat off of me for having 3 dish's on the roof by getting a (albeit) smaller dish out there. Finally, there are some rooms where I don't want to add additional wiring for a Dish Network reciever and want to maintain the DirecTV reciever as well. I would be willing to go and only obtain programming off of the 119 in those rooms from Echostar and use a A/B Switch to choose what reciever will get the feed from the Phase III.
There are other possibilities I am sure as well.
This may work rather well for some who have their locals on the 119 satellite and don't order PPV's.
It was a fun test, I will post pictures and results of the upcoming tests when they happen.
0 Replies
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4128 views
Staff member
HERE TO HELP YOU!
Cutting Edge
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!
So let the game continue!
The last song was added by Bobby who posted...
One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters
CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!
Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game
Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.
Example:
Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow
Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio
Another example:
Ride the Lightning -- Metallica
Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne
Get it?
An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
So let the game continue!
The last song was added by Bobby who posted...
One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters
CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!
Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game
Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.
Example:
Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow
Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio
Another example:
Ride the Lightning -- Metallica
Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne
Get it?
An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
68639 Replies
·
2679377 views
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtLJGwEtyT0
Direct YouTube Link - Apple's All-New iPad mini
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtLJGwEtyT0
Direct YouTube Link - Apple's All-New iPad mini
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
0 Replies
·
10 views
Lifetime Supporter
I know HipKat said that they were working on conversions but we got the official news yesterday right from Dish that starting next month all DMA's will be on the western arc, and all customers will be assigned to that. That's gonna mean a lot of customers around here aren't gonna get Dish unless there are exceptions. Too many mountains and trees.
175 Replies
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5074 views
Howdy folks long time no write.
Issue(s): Horizontal transponders (esp. Weigel mux) breakup/mosaic/sputtering audio, JTV less so (but received perfectly up until a month or so ago.
Vertical is fine (Daystar). Up until recently couldn't even get any signal on Weigel Mux but JTV was perfect.
What I did to improve things: A slight westward move improved reception but only slightly (approx 72 on the micro HD, sorry no dB to post). I removed the 3-way C-Band splitter and used a 2-way to get a 1-2 db signal gain ( the power port goes to the Startrak - the micro HD doesn't have enough juice ! (1st clue) even after swapping the switching power supply it came with with a heftier linear 12 V supply (less RFI too !).
I have had issues with the uHD before signal breaking up that a reboot would clear up (clue #2 = dying tuner?) - FYI, I reinforced the IF input and removed all flux from the pcb completely with a Flux Removal Pen (MG Chemicals Cat No. 4140-P) which definitely makes a huge difference.
I went outside and pushed and pulled reflector slightly and no improvement. Pole (actually tower in yard - the neighbours love me..NOT) is plumb, checked with carpenters level. Dish was last peaked in 2017 or so, after overhauling 24" Von Weise, new Acme, fresh grease, etc. Focal length, f/d ratio etc meticulously adjusted. One panel has a tear so planning to repair that this weekend when my cousin comes over ( to help me out (old guy here) forecast calls for sunshine.
What has changed: My utility company has installed new high tension line poles (one smack dab in the middle of 101°W target! But they put it in last year and reception (of JTV (HOR) at least) was fine, BUT when they came out to transfer the wires over this year from the old (sawed in half) pole that's about when the troubles started (coincidence?), but again Daystar (VER) was fine. I always had this pole in the light of sight of 101° before with no issues. (fyi my zenith sat 74° is unobstucted, but can't test)
In the meantime Weigel mux is trying to break in MOSTLY in LATE at night (less cell usage?) (audio not video except for a frame here or there) so don't know what has changed with this mux which suddenly "woke up". I have never had to fuss with dish moves on this satellite ( the slightest move +/- motor clicks loses lock, wheres normally on C-band I can go significantly wider east or west and still have a strong signal ( have these gone "spot beam" or narrower somehow and what is the slight difference in Az listed on Lyngsat to 100.9° affect things ( isn't that the declination i.e. requiring a tweak of declination?).
Long story short (too late, ha), if I had another DVB-S2 box to try and / or a newer more stable PLL lnb ( I have been meaning to upgrade many a time but never got arround to it) I could determine if it's my antiquated receiving equipment, or my dish/feed alignment ( doubtful as it tracks everything from 55 °W to 133 ° W nicely.) or the dreaded 5G! (BUT only on HOR and not VER?).
I read another post where the OP (with his smaller 7.5 footer) played around with the illumination to peak desired transponder and reduce qrm on interfering/ stronger xpndrs (even on 103° W). So will play with that too - and cut away the RG-6 a and pull up a fresh section with new PPC and coax Seal. Open the throat cap see if any cobwebs are there and check servo operation (also changed in last maintence 10 years ago).
Finally, this will probably be the last chance I get to play with the BUD from the looks of it (providers leaving, auctioning off rest of spectrum imminent above 4.0 Ghz, and to keep the peace with neighbours so it would be nice to have that mux back for the long, cold and dark winters to comfort this old man before I call it quits and buy a VHF/UHF/FM Yagi and get MeTV, H&I from my Vermont local stations (checked at a friends today and they come in nicely - except ABC) .
Only one guy in town (Montreal) I may be able to get a receiver or PLL lnb from to try (RPS Sat) so hopefully with elimnate that as a possible culprit. Be nice to pick up a cheap or used PLL lnb to try w/o 5G BPF (money is tight )
Like others I couldn't care less about "tv" (well maybe just a liitle or a lot) it's the challenge that excites me , I can get MeTV other ways OTA (no pirate crap).
So what do you guys (and gals) think ?. p.s. I don't have a spectrum analyzer and there are def/ cell towers nearby (half a Km or so away).
Oh and time permitting will hammer out dings too and wire damaged mesh on one section for an extra dB or two. Hesitate to touch Declination, Elevation and pole mount but will play around with those a little too... Why is this mux for finicky suddenly ?(8psk, 5/6 fec, beamwidthetc.. man wish they went back to VER I think everthing would be fine! For the engineers out here does 5G QRM affect one poliarization (HOR) more than another (VER)? I understand the strong interference swamps out the input mixer/local oscilator in the hapless old C-band lnb (I think it at time affect KU too esp. LPB on 101°W KU - incidentally thos were weak or "gone' but are back almost at the time MeTV improved..hmm Terrestrial interference?
Any thoughts or suggestions ( cheap or free solutions please) greatly appreciated. Cheers.
p.p.s. Micro HD can't display Decades and Toons but records them fine so I can watch on another box/media player (Ali chip set issue). Another reason to upgrade.
Anybody interested in a nice C/KU system free ? (for next Spring/Summer 2027)
[Sami 10' mesh, Corotor II+, Eagle Aspen (very old) C-band lnb, Norsat Ku lnb, Channel Master C/Ku (H/V) switch, Startrak 400 Analog receiver w/ motor control, Geosat uHD DVD-S2, CW600S for Mpeg-2]
Issue(s): Horizontal transponders (esp. Weigel mux) breakup/mosaic/sputtering audio, JTV less so (but received perfectly up until a month or so ago.
Vertical is fine (Daystar). Up until recently couldn't even get any signal on Weigel Mux but JTV was perfect.
What I did to improve things: A slight westward move improved reception but only slightly (approx 72 on the micro HD, sorry no dB to post). I removed the 3-way C-Band splitter and used a 2-way to get a 1-2 db signal gain ( the power port goes to the Startrak - the micro HD doesn't have enough juice ! (1st clue) even after swapping the switching power supply it came with with a heftier linear 12 V supply (less RFI too !).
I have had issues with the uHD before signal breaking up that a reboot would clear up (clue #2 = dying tuner?) - FYI, I reinforced the IF input and removed all flux from the pcb completely with a Flux Removal Pen (MG Chemicals Cat No. 4140-P) which definitely makes a huge difference.
I went outside and pushed and pulled reflector slightly and no improvement. Pole (actually tower in yard - the neighbours love me..NOT) is plumb, checked with carpenters level. Dish was last peaked in 2017 or so, after overhauling 24" Von Weise, new Acme, fresh grease, etc. Focal length, f/d ratio etc meticulously adjusted. One panel has a tear so planning to repair that this weekend when my cousin comes over ( to help me out (old guy here) forecast calls for sunshine.
What has changed: My utility company has installed new high tension line poles (one smack dab in the middle of 101°W target! But they put it in last year and reception (of JTV (HOR) at least) was fine, BUT when they came out to transfer the wires over this year from the old (sawed in half) pole that's about when the troubles started (coincidence?), but again Daystar (VER) was fine. I always had this pole in the light of sight of 101° before with no issues. (fyi my zenith sat 74° is unobstucted, but can't test)
In the meantime Weigel mux is trying to break in MOSTLY in LATE at night (less cell usage?) (audio not video except for a frame here or there) so don't know what has changed with this mux which suddenly "woke up". I have never had to fuss with dish moves on this satellite ( the slightest move +/- motor clicks loses lock, wheres normally on C-band I can go significantly wider east or west and still have a strong signal ( have these gone "spot beam" or narrower somehow and what is the slight difference in Az listed on Lyngsat to 100.9° affect things ( isn't that the declination i.e. requiring a tweak of declination?).
Long story short (too late, ha), if I had another DVB-S2 box to try and / or a newer more stable PLL lnb ( I have been meaning to upgrade many a time but never got arround to it) I could determine if it's my antiquated receiving equipment, or my dish/feed alignment ( doubtful as it tracks everything from 55 °W to 133 ° W nicely.) or the dreaded 5G! (BUT only on HOR and not VER?).
I read another post where the OP (with his smaller 7.5 footer) played around with the illumination to peak desired transponder and reduce qrm on interfering/ stronger xpndrs (even on 103° W). So will play with that too - and cut away the RG-6 a and pull up a fresh section with new PPC and coax Seal. Open the throat cap see if any cobwebs are there and check servo operation (also changed in last maintence 10 years ago).
Finally, this will probably be the last chance I get to play with the BUD from the looks of it (providers leaving, auctioning off rest of spectrum imminent above 4.0 Ghz, and to keep the peace with neighbours so it would be nice to have that mux back for the long, cold and dark winters to comfort this old man before I call it quits and buy a VHF/UHF/FM Yagi and get MeTV, H&I from my Vermont local stations (checked at a friends today and they come in nicely - except ABC) .
Only one guy in town (Montreal) I may be able to get a receiver or PLL lnb from to try (RPS Sat) so hopefully with elimnate that as a possible culprit. Be nice to pick up a cheap or used PLL lnb to try w/o 5G BPF (money is tight )
Like others I couldn't care less about "tv" (well maybe just a liitle or a lot) it's the challenge that excites me , I can get MeTV other ways OTA (no pirate crap).
So what do you guys (and gals) think ?. p.s. I don't have a spectrum analyzer and there are def/ cell towers nearby (half a Km or so away).
Oh and time permitting will hammer out dings too and wire damaged mesh on one section for an extra dB or two. Hesitate to touch Declination, Elevation and pole mount but will play around with those a little too... Why is this mux for finicky suddenly ?(8psk, 5/6 fec, beamwidthetc.. man wish they went back to VER I think everthing would be fine! For the engineers out here does 5G QRM affect one poliarization (HOR) more than another (VER)? I understand the strong interference swamps out the input mixer/local oscilator in the hapless old C-band lnb (I think it at time affect KU too esp. LPB on 101°W KU - incidentally thos were weak or "gone' but are back almost at the time MeTV improved..hmm Terrestrial interference?
Any thoughts or suggestions ( cheap or free solutions please) greatly appreciated. Cheers.
p.p.s. Micro HD can't display Decades and Toons but records them fine so I can watch on another box/media player (Ali chip set issue). Another reason to upgrade.
Anybody interested in a nice C/KU system free ? (for next Spring/Summer 2027)
[Sami 10' mesh, Corotor II+, Eagle Aspen (very old) C-band lnb, Norsat Ku lnb, Channel Master C/Ku (H/V) switch, Startrak 400 Analog receiver w/ motor control, Geosat uHD DVD-S2, CW600S for Mpeg-2]
17 Replies
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654 views
Interesting article about the work being done to develope an ATSC 3 converter box. Yes it does mention affordable.
www.tvtechnology.com
Pearl TV Issues Progress Report on Low-Cost 3.0 Converters in Advance of NAB Show New York
Group has secured lower pricing from key tech players to make less costly boxes available
www.tvtechnology.com
11 Replies
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590 views
It's dead, they just don't know it yet. They killed it by forcing DRM on it, and that TOTALLY botched implementing it.
There is absolutely NO compelling reason for anybody to switch to ATSC3.0. They only want it as a total and complete money grab.
S
WHAT ABOUT THE INTERNET PART OF IT. NO ONE WANTS A BOX CONNECTED TO THE INTERNET EITHER.
It's dead, they just don't know it yet. They killed it by forcing DRM on it, and that TOTALLY botched implementing it.
There is absolutely NO compelling reason for anybody to switch to ATSC3.0. They only want it as a total and complete money grab.
Pub Member / Supporter
Lifetime Supporter
Love this guy's channel. Looks like Walmart has thrown in the towel when it comes to conventional car batteries.
I bought a new AGM battery from Walmart about a year ago, it is already needing replacing. I thought about just buying a regular battery but from what I've read, that might not be a smart move. Might check my Forscan program and see if I can change the battery type from AGM.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awe7kY5nvdU
I bought a new AGM battery from Walmart about a year ago, it is already needing replacing. I thought about just buying a regular battery but from what I've read, that might not be a smart move. Might check my Forscan program and see if I can change the battery type from AGM.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awe7kY5nvdU
20 Replies
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293 views
Pub Member / Supporter
Susan Saint James, Emmy-Winning Star of ‘Kate & Allie’ and ‘McMillan & Wife,’ Dies at 80
Susan Saint James, the Emmy-winning actress who starred in "Kate & Allie," died Monday after being diagnosed with pancreatic cancer. She was 80.
variety.com
3 Replies
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48 views
Lon.TV
Time for another AWESOME video from Lon Seidman of LON.TV!
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFY_gHuMhUU
Direct YouTube Link - I Used AI to Replace Apps I Was Paying For
The Official LON.TV Website
Lon on Facebook
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFY_gHuMhUU
Direct YouTube Link - I Used AI to Replace Apps I Was Paying For
The Official LON.TV Website
Lon on Facebook
0 Replies
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26 views
My OTA is not working anymore. This started after the latest update. I have the OTA dongle with a OTA antenna that I've been using for years. My hopper does not recognize the dongle anymore and when I go to the OTA setting, it has a screen that says to plug a dongle into the USB. I tried unplugging and plugging back, in the same usb port and other ports. The Hopper does not recognize it. Anyone have same issue?
204 Replies
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5666 views
Hi all. If you were using a single tuner USB OTA adapter that is no longer working, please PM me. Thanks. 
I have the dual tuner OTA adapter currently connected, but I have 2 of the single tuner OTA adapters that I can quickly connect - neither is seen by my H3.Hi all. If you were using a single tuner USB OTA adapter that is no longer working, please PM me. Thanks.
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK11O-VoMBU
Direct YouTube Link - Security Now 1102
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK11O-VoMBU
Direct YouTube Link - Security Now 1102
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
0 Replies
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28 views