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I hate to resurrect such an old thread but this was some fantastic research and innovation to solve an old problem! I say old problem because I have sort of the same problem but not with an ASC1. I've got a pretty good electronics background and am a ham operator etc. I like to say I've been trying to electrocute myself since I was 10 or so! I also have a nice older Tektronix 468 oscilloscope. I am however, a bit slow sometimes. 
I never really thought noise was my problem but I am betting it is! I never thought of monitoring it with a scope! Duh! I'm using a Gbox and a Von Weise actuator that has an optical sensor and the Gbox doesn't supply the +5 votes for the sensor. I do have good ribbon cable that is a few years old but it is in great shape as far as I know.
So I needed +5 volts and the easiest way was to use an old Motorola phone charger to supply the sensor power. It works, woohoo! But, it loses count (over time) and I believe a modified version of this project could be used to filter the noise, convert the sync and supply the voltage. It'd be real nice if all of this fit inside the Gbox but a standalone device may be better.
What I have not been able to find is the details on how this was put together and what components were used other than the Standex-Meder Reed Relay SIL05-1A72-71D. I would only need a small board with the components. The Gbox has a black space on the back which I believe was for a polarity controller. I wish it had it, but it doesn't. That area could be used for connections or maybe I could make an external box to make it simpler to install if someone wanted to copy it. I believe it'd work fine as a standalone add-on.
I have searched and read all over the forum but can't find the details of when this all came together and how it's wired etc. I still intend to get an ASC1 fairly soon because I absolutely am tired of not having skew control, but in the meantime it'd be awesome to get a Gbox working properly with an optical sensor. Am I overlooking the details somewhere? Are they here on the forum?
Thanks.
I never really thought noise was my problem but I am betting it is! I never thought of monitoring it with a scope! Duh! I'm using a Gbox and a Von Weise actuator that has an optical sensor and the Gbox doesn't supply the +5 votes for the sensor. I do have good ribbon cable that is a few years old but it is in great shape as far as I know.
So I needed +5 volts and the easiest way was to use an old Motorola phone charger to supply the sensor power. It works, woohoo! But, it loses count (over time) and I believe a modified version of this project could be used to filter the noise, convert the sync and supply the voltage. It'd be real nice if all of this fit inside the Gbox but a standalone device may be better.
What I have not been able to find is the details on how this was put together and what components were used other than the Standex-Meder Reed Relay SIL05-1A72-71D. I would only need a small board with the components. The Gbox has a black space on the back which I believe was for a polarity controller. I wish it had it, but it doesn't. That area could be used for connections or maybe I could make an external box to make it simpler to install if someone wanted to copy it. I believe it'd work fine as a standalone add-on.
I have searched and read all over the forum but can't find the details of when this all came together and how it's wired etc. I still intend to get an ASC1 fairly soon because I absolutely am tired of not having skew control, but in the meantime it'd be awesome to get a Gbox working properly with an optical sensor. Am I overlooking the details somewhere? Are they here on the forum?
Thanks.
32 Replies
·
4353 views
Y
Hello again Brian,
It may be too early to call but I'm pretty sure I got the actuator fixed. It's never worked more than 5 minutes without an error once it started giving me problems. So, I've checked wiring and even the connections inside the Gbox. So we have a solid connection from the Gbox to the actuator...no, maybe not.
I forgot about the limit switches! Yep, dirt in those would cause it not to move as fast as expected and produce an error. I pushed them open (the little tab to make a hole to the inside) and blasted them full of contact cleaner and worked them about 50 times each. This actuator has been sitting since about 2000 or so. It's been running over a half hour and I've probably wasted a mile of dish movement but it hasn't failed yet!
I'll report back how it goes but I really think that was the problem and I know it may come back if the switches are iffy. If it runs a couple of days I'm probably good. If it starts doing it again I'll direct wire past the switches and see how that goes. It was one of those things that aggravation wasn't helping so I started thinking, where could the chain be broken at?
I appreciate your help and I ordered a Freesat V7 from the same people you did. I also got the WiFi dongle that was reported to work good with it from the same seller. Now I'm off to find the A/V RCA cable for it because I send it to the other room through an RF modulator, not real worried about picture quality and it's plenty good to watch. As for Decades, something fishy is going on there, maybe they're messing with us?
Oh, one question about the V7. Does it do HDMI and composite at the same time? That's a must for me unless I just buy a second one which I'll do anyway fairly soon. It's still going...thanks again.
It may be too early to call but I'm pretty sure I got the actuator fixed. It's never worked more than 5 minutes without an error once it started giving me problems. So, I've checked wiring and even the connections inside the Gbox. So we have a solid connection from the Gbox to the actuator...no, maybe not.
I forgot about the limit switches! Yep, dirt in those would cause it not to move as fast as expected and produce an error. I pushed them open (the little tab to make a hole to the inside) and blasted them full of contact cleaner and worked them about 50 times each. This actuator has been sitting since about 2000 or so. It's been running over a half hour and I've probably wasted a mile of dish movement but it hasn't failed yet!
I'll report back how it goes but I really think that was the problem and I know it may come back if the switches are iffy. If it runs a couple of days I'm probably good. If it starts doing it again I'll direct wire past the switches and see how that goes. It was one of those things that aggravation wasn't helping so I started thinking, where could the chain be broken at?
I appreciate your help and I ordered a Freesat V7 from the same people you did. I also got the WiFi dongle that was reported to work good with it from the same seller. Now I'm off to find the A/V RCA cable for it because I send it to the other room through an RF modulator, not real worried about picture quality and it's plenty good to watch. As for Decades, something fishy is going on there, maybe they're messing with us?
Oh, one question about the V7. Does it do HDMI and composite at the same time? That's a must for me unless I just buy a second one which I'll do anyway fairly soon. It's still going...thanks again.
Y
It turns out I was right, it was too early to call. It was still having problems when it warmed up in the daytime. I took the whole sensor board out and made a magnet wheel and used a glass reed switch. I thought and looked at it, and thought some more about how to encase and mount the reed switch. I was over engineering it a bit at that point.
The glass reed switches look like a resistor so I just bent the leads (very carefully) into the right shape to put the ends right under the screws where the sensor wires go. It's bent so it stands out and up under the wheel just right! I used a seasoning salt lid to make the wheel, one of the bigger ones. Just cut the threaded part off and you have a perfect size disc. My Von Weise has the optical wheel and the 1/4 shaft sticks up through it a bit, just enough that I made a hole in the disc and forced it on. I didn't need glue or anything and it's a nice tight fit and holds good. The optical disc braces it a bit too from the bottom.
I used six 3/16" dia. x 1/32" thick N52 magnets from K&J Magnetics. These here: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D301-N52
I glued them on with dollar store rubber cement and they're on there good. I tried slightly larger magnets that were 1/16" thick (N42 & N52) but the switch never opened. They were 1/4" dia. x 1/16" thick D41G-N52's and something a bit smaller than that but the same thickness. The thinner 1/32" ones were just the right strength. I think the width played a big part of this too. N42 & N52 are the strength ratings, the site explains it. There is a lot of cool info there.
The ones I used are very thin and strong and it doesn't miss a count, none, and I haven't had any errors! I linked them above but they are D301-N52's if you look them up by model number. The optical wheel had six slots and six magnets works great. When it was optical I couldn't get it to move by a 1 count, almost never, it'd jump 2 no matter how fast you hit the button. Now it'll count one at a time easily and consistently! Now that I've done it I could make one and install it in a half hour.
It works really good and time will tell if it's missing counts and getting out of sync but I just don't see how it can now. I wish I'd have done this before I ever put it on the dish, it's that good. I have a new Freesat V7 on the way, a new C/Ku LNBF from Brian and a dish that goes where you tell it and I told it to go a few places!
I'm guessing the optical sensor was the problem and it didn't crop up until it had been warm for a while. I installed it in the winter and one day it just went goofy. It was hard to pin down the problem. It would fake you out and make you think you had it fixed when it cooled off but then go goofy when it warmed up. When it rained it cooled off and it worked but I thought it was possibly getting water somewhere, took a while to soak in maybe. Nope, it was heat!
I found all of the info about where to get the magnets etc here in the forums. I also read that 10 or 12 magnets really doesn't noticeably help your resolution. It turns out 6 magnets fits and works good and it's so easy to do, I used all hand tools. I cut the disc out of the lid with a pocket knife and used a file to round the edges and smooth them. Then I just made a hole in the center, slightly smaller than the 1/4" shaft.
I used forceps to grip the lead on the reed switches right up next to the glass, very close to it. If you put pressure on the glass while bending the leads you'll break it so use the forceps! Needle nose pliers are not narrow enough to let you get the leads bent the direction you need them to go and have enough lead left to fit under the screws. Grip it tight so it doesn't turn and form it in sort of a U shape so it'll stick out and up at an angle when you put the ends under the screws. Tighten them down and you have it mounted! Once the cover is on it nothing can break the glass and it works great and is easy to change should you ever need to. Glue your magnets on the disc and force it on the shaft and you're good to go!
I have a nice camera and will get some photos of it posted. Photos will make it much easier to understand what I'm saying and it'll make perfect sense.
I got this 10 pack of reed switches for $3.24 total and got them in 3 or 4 days. When you order the magnets you'll see $15 shipping or something and I almost over looked where you click USPS and then you get $5 S&H. I have a few spares that are too big for this job, but I'll find something to use them for. My friend's 5 or 6 year old son swallowed some that he got from a boy at school and it messed that boy up! Keep them away from children, they stick their intestines together and it's a bad, bad, deal. Emergency surgery and all because the kid lied for days and just said he had a belly ache. Anyway, this is so simple to do and it flat makes it work. It's a two wire system now that the Gbox is compatible with and likes!
And I want to say thank you for all of the help Brian and Magic Static, Lone Gunman, and a couple of others who posted magnet wheel projects. I can't remember who all it was, but it was several. In my case just putting the switch leads under the screws is the way to go. No glue, no tape, no solder and no hassle. It just fits and works. I'll try and add the photos tomorrow, just have to pop the cover off.
Here are the switches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371323460047
The glass reed switches look like a resistor so I just bent the leads (very carefully) into the right shape to put the ends right under the screws where the sensor wires go. It's bent so it stands out and up under the wheel just right! I used a seasoning salt lid to make the wheel, one of the bigger ones. Just cut the threaded part off and you have a perfect size disc. My Von Weise has the optical wheel and the 1/4 shaft sticks up through it a bit, just enough that I made a hole in the disc and forced it on. I didn't need glue or anything and it's a nice tight fit and holds good. The optical disc braces it a bit too from the bottom.
I used six 3/16" dia. x 1/32" thick N52 magnets from K&J Magnetics. These here: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D301-N52
I glued them on with dollar store rubber cement and they're on there good. I tried slightly larger magnets that were 1/16" thick (N42 & N52) but the switch never opened. They were 1/4" dia. x 1/16" thick D41G-N52's and something a bit smaller than that but the same thickness. The thinner 1/32" ones were just the right strength. I think the width played a big part of this too. N42 & N52 are the strength ratings, the site explains it. There is a lot of cool info there.
The ones I used are very thin and strong and it doesn't miss a count, none, and I haven't had any errors! I linked them above but they are D301-N52's if you look them up by model number. The optical wheel had six slots and six magnets works great. When it was optical I couldn't get it to move by a 1 count, almost never, it'd jump 2 no matter how fast you hit the button. Now it'll count one at a time easily and consistently! Now that I've done it I could make one and install it in a half hour.
It works really good and time will tell if it's missing counts and getting out of sync but I just don't see how it can now. I wish I'd have done this before I ever put it on the dish, it's that good. I have a new Freesat V7 on the way, a new C/Ku LNBF from Brian and a dish that goes where you tell it and I told it to go a few places!
I'm guessing the optical sensor was the problem and it didn't crop up until it had been warm for a while. I installed it in the winter and one day it just went goofy. It was hard to pin down the problem. It would fake you out and make you think you had it fixed when it cooled off but then go goofy when it warmed up. When it rained it cooled off and it worked but I thought it was possibly getting water somewhere, took a while to soak in maybe. Nope, it was heat!
I found all of the info about where to get the magnets etc here in the forums. I also read that 10 or 12 magnets really doesn't noticeably help your resolution. It turns out 6 magnets fits and works good and it's so easy to do, I used all hand tools. I cut the disc out of the lid with a pocket knife and used a file to round the edges and smooth them. Then I just made a hole in the center, slightly smaller than the 1/4" shaft.
I used forceps to grip the lead on the reed switches right up next to the glass, very close to it. If you put pressure on the glass while bending the leads you'll break it so use the forceps! Needle nose pliers are not narrow enough to let you get the leads bent the direction you need them to go and have enough lead left to fit under the screws. Grip it tight so it doesn't turn and form it in sort of a U shape so it'll stick out and up at an angle when you put the ends under the screws. Tighten them down and you have it mounted! Once the cover is on it nothing can break the glass and it works great and is easy to change should you ever need to. Glue your magnets on the disc and force it on the shaft and you're good to go!
I have a nice camera and will get some photos of it posted. Photos will make it much easier to understand what I'm saying and it'll make perfect sense.
I got this 10 pack of reed switches for $3.24 total and got them in 3 or 4 days. When you order the magnets you'll see $15 shipping or something and I almost over looked where you click USPS and then you get $5 S&H. I have a few spares that are too big for this job, but I'll find something to use them for. My friend's 5 or 6 year old son swallowed some that he got from a boy at school and it messed that boy up! Keep them away from children, they stick their intestines together and it's a bad, bad, deal. Emergency surgery and all because the kid lied for days and just said he had a belly ache. Anyway, this is so simple to do and it flat makes it work. It's a two wire system now that the Gbox is compatible with and likes!
And I want to say thank you for all of the help Brian and Magic Static, Lone Gunman, and a couple of others who posted magnet wheel projects. I can't remember who all it was, but it was several. In my case just putting the switch leads under the screws is the way to go. No glue, no tape, no solder and no hassle. It just fits and works. I'll try and add the photos tomorrow, just have to pop the cover off.
Here are the switches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371323460047
Glad that fixed it for you! Nice write up - looking forward to those pics!It turns out I was right, it was too early to call. It was still having problems when it warmed up in the daytime. I took the whole sensor board out and made a magnet wheel and used a glass reed switch. I thought and looked at it, and thought some more about how to encase and mount the reed switch. I was over engineering it a bit at that point.
The glass reed switches look like a resistor so I just bent the leads (very carefully) into the right shape to put the ends right under the screws where the sensor wires go. It's bent so it stands out and up under the wheel just right! I used a seasoning salt lid to make the wheel, one of the bigger ones. Just cut the threaded part off and you have a perfect size disc. My Von Weise has the optical wheel and the 1/4 shaft sticks up through it a bit, just enough that I made a hole in the disc and forced it on. I didn't need glue or anything and it's a nice tight fit and holds good. The optical disc braces it a bit too from the bottom.
I used six 3/16" dia. x 1/32" thick N52 magnets from K&J Magnetics. These here: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D301-N52
I glued them on with dollar store rubber cement and they're on there good. I tried slightly larger magnets that were 1/16" thick (N42 & N52) but the switch never opened. They were 1/4" dia. x 1/16" thick D41G-N52's and something a bit smaller than that but the same thickness. The thinner 1/32" ones were just the right strength. I think the width played a big part of this too. N42 & N52 are the strength ratings, the site explains it. There is a lot of cool info there.
The ones I used are very thin and strong and it doesn't miss a count, none, and I haven't had any errors! I linked them above but they are D301-N52's if you look them up by model number. The optical wheel had six slots and six magnets works great. When it was optical I couldn't get it to move by a 1 count, almost never, it'd jump 2 no matter how fast you hit the button. Now it'll count one at a time easily and consistently! Now that I've done it I could make one and install it in a half hour.
It works really good and time will tell if it's missing counts and getting out of sync but I just don't see how it can now. I wish I'd have done this before I ever put it on the dish, it's that good. I have a new Freesat V7 on the way, a new C/Ku LNBF from Brian and a dish that goes where you tell it and I told it to go a few places!
I'm guessing the optical sensor was the problem and it didn't crop up until it had been warm for a while. I installed it in the winter and one day it just went goofy. It was hard to pin down the problem. It would fake you out and make you think you had it fixed when it cooled off but then go goofy when it warmed up. When it rained it cooled off and it worked but I thought it was possibly getting water somewhere, took a while to soak in maybe. Nope, it was heat!
I found all of the info about where to get the magnets etc here in the forums. I also read that 10 or 12 magnets really doesn't noticeably help your resolution. It turns out 6 magnets fits and works good and it's so easy to do, I used all hand tools. I cut the disc out of the lid with a pocket knife and used a file to round the edges and smooth them. Then I just made a hole in the center, slightly smaller than the 1/4" shaft.
I used forceps to grip the lead on the reed switches right up next to the glass, very close to it. If you put pressure on the glass while bending the leads you'll break it so use the forceps! Needle nose pliers are not narrow enough to let you get the leads bent the direction you need them to go and have enough lead left to fit under the screws. Grip it tight so it doesn't turn and form it in sort of a U shape so it'll stick out and up at an angle when you put the ends under the screws. Tighten them down and you have it mounted! Once the cover is on it nothing can break the glass and it works great and is easy to change should you ever need to. Glue your magnets on the disc and force it on the shaft and you're good to go!
I have a nice camera and will get some photos of it posted. Photos will make it much easier to understand what I'm saying and it'll make perfect sense.
I got this 10 pack of reed switches for $3.24 total and got them in 3 or 4 days. When you order the magnets you'll see $15 shipping or something and I almost over looked where you click USPS and then you get $5 S&H. I have a few spares that are too big for this job, but I'll find something to use them for. My friend's 5 or 6 year old son swallowed some that he got from a boy at school and it messed that boy up! Keep them away from children, they stick their intestines together and it's a bad, bad, deal. Emergency surgery and all because the kid lied for days and just said he had a belly ache. Anyway, this is so simple to do and it flat makes it work. It's a two wire system now that the Gbox is compatible with and likes!
And I want to say thank you for all of the help Brian and Magic Static, Lone Gunman, and a couple of others who posted magnet wheel projects. I can't remember who all it was, but it was several. In my case just putting the switch leads under the screws is the way to go. No glue, no tape, no solder and no hassle. It just fits and works. I'll try and add the photos tomorrow, just have to pop the cover off.
Here are the switches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371323460047
Y
Ok, here is a couple of photos. By looking at the first photo you can see the leads of the reed switch are under the tabs but I think I'll make another one with some lugs soldered onto them. It's working fine but I don't like the looks of it, looks like it could move and come loose. You can also see that I chipped the glass on the right side of the switch, didn't know that until I seen these closeups.
In the second photo you can see the whole wheel and the mess I made with the glue. I was putting on and removing different size magnets and when it worked I just left it on there. If you glue on the right size to begin with you won't have that mess. Also, you can see that the reed switch is not fully under the magnet wheel but when you have the switch in your hand just holding a magnet close enough to the lead closes the switch. I guess it magnetizes the lead and pulls it closed. Still, I'd rather have the switch directly under the magnets and lugs on the leads would give me more lead length to bend it that direction. But the fact is this works great just the way it is. The photos were taken with a Nikon D7100 and I processed the raw files so that's why they're so good. I reduced them to 2MP from 24MP for file size.
In the second photo you can see the whole wheel and the mess I made with the glue. I was putting on and removing different size magnets and when it worked I just left it on there. If you glue on the right size to begin with you won't have that mess. Also, you can see that the reed switch is not fully under the magnet wheel but when you have the switch in your hand just holding a magnet close enough to the lead closes the switch. I guess it magnetizes the lead and pulls it closed. Still, I'd rather have the switch directly under the magnets and lugs on the leads would give me more lead length to bend it that direction. But the fact is this works great just the way it is. The photos were taken with a Nikon D7100 and I processed the raw files so that's why they're so good. I reduced them to 2MP from 24MP for file size.
Supporting Founder
Lifetime Supporter
I have had good experiences with Brave but lately I am frustrated with it.
Now when I launch the app it shows a box at the bottom asking if I want to go back to the last opened page. It is in conveniently located and I would prefer to eliminate it.
Does anyone know how to do this?
Please let's not sidetrack the discussion into an exploration of why I don't care for it or a lecture about all the wonderful aspects of the feature. I just do not care for it.
Now when I launch the app it shows a box at the bottom asking if I want to go back to the last opened page. It is in conveniently located and I would prefer to eliminate it.
Does anyone know how to do this?
Please let's not sidetrack the discussion into an exploration of why I don't care for it or a lecture about all the wonderful aspects of the feature. I just do not care for it.
2 Replies
·
22 views
I don't have an Android phone so I don't know if this will apply to the Brave settings on your android device but it works on the desktop for me.
Change this setting to either startup to a different website or a new tab page. I have mine set to open to google.com instead of where I left off and it doesn't ask me at the next startup if I want to open the last opened page unless it crashed.
Change this setting to either startup to a different website or a new tab page. I have mine set to open to google.com instead of where I left off and it doesn't ask me at the next startup if I want to open the last opened page unless it crashed.
Hello everyone.
I am new here and I done a search on MLB Extra Innings and DISH and it led me to this forum and so I signed up and hopefully someone can help me out with some issues.
First off, I am a DISH Outdoors customer and I signed up for service back in late October of 2025. I have a Wally HD Receiver and I am using the DISH Playmaker OS 2.1 as my Antenna that operates on 110 and 119 Western Arc and Alternative 61.5, 110, and 119 satellites. I signed up for MLB Extra Innings back in March before the season began. I was excited to be able to watch MLB Extra Innings because I love baseball and I use to have MLB Extra Innings on Satellite DIRECTV back in 2001-2004 and on Satellite DISH back in 2016 and 2017.
I was a bit disappointed when I found out that it is actually MLB.TV Simulcasted to DISH Satellite (More on that later) Anyways I have been watching faithfully almost every night however about a week ago there was a problem. When I went to go to the game to watch a game the game wouldn't come in an I would send a refresh signal to my receiver and then I could watch the programming and when I went to switch games at that games appointed time slot my Wally HD Receiver who lockup where I couldn't change any channels or view the guide and it would reboot. The next night when I turned to a game at game start it still had the background it shows before the game started and again send a refresh signal and went though this same thing over and over. I added a movie channel to my lineup and had issues with showing up my Dish Wally HD Receiver.
With an investigation after several calls with DISH Support it was determined that by going to the diagnostics screen that I had a issue with my Tuner because any changes that I made to my programming these changes would not take affect on the Wally HD Receiver. In other words that Wally HD Receiver was toast!
I too had reported MLB Extra Innings issue to DISH and they created a ticket for it and said that someone would investigate the issue. I too took notice that under MyDISH account under MLB Extra Innings always before it would show that I was subscribed and on auto-renew. Now it shows nothing and even after logging out and deleting my User Name and Password so that I can see it in guest mode it too doesn't even list a price and option for purchase as does the now WNBA League Pass.
After my DISH Receiver was ruined I had to buy a new Wally HD Receiver. I took advantage an bought 2 HD Wally's and added them both to my account. I called back to remove the old box off of the account and was told it was linked to MLB Extra Innings and the advanced technical support team said there was a glitch with MLB Extra Innings and hope to have a resolution in a couple of days and I could call back in to then to remove the box. But both the 2 new Wally HD Receivers are activated on my account. I asked them what the problem was with MLB Extra Innings and how long it would be and I was told there was a glitch as I asked to specify what they meant and got no answer. I again went and checked the MyDISH account page under the MLB Extra Innings page and it still doesn't list me as subscribed and after logging out and deleting my User Name and Password so I could it see it as a guest mode and it still doesn't list the price and option for purchase as it does for the WNBA League Pass.
I am afraid to boot up these boxes and go through the activation screen process because of the issues with the MLB Extra Innings in fear it will do the same or mess up my boxes from being able to receive MLB Extra Inning because or any other programing because I was told that MLB Extra Innings wouldn't come in on those new box because it was activated with the Wally that is ruined and it needs removed first.
Now I have no DISH service going on a week and miss my MLB Extra Innings when the races are just heating up and now with two boxes activated I can't boot up because I am afraid it will mess them up and I will be out the $180.00 or so dollars I made in purchase on the receivers.
Is anyone else experiencing issues with their MLB Extra Innings and does anyone really know what this so called glitch actually is? I can't seem to get a clear answer from anybody and don't even know if it will even be fixed or anyone really understands it.
Now to my previous statement on how I was disappointed that MLB Extra Innings is actually MLB.TV in simulcast. When I had MLB Extra Innings before with DIRECTV in 2001-2004 and with DISH form 2016 and 2017. They would always show the commercials for every teams broadcast from their local market and all games would be authentic just as if you were watching in their home market. After I quit DISH I went to streaming for awhile and I done MLB.TV and I hated their features because of the no commercials, the delayed times of getting back after the commercial break, and not being able to listen to what studios had to say when they would cut into the studios, and always looking at the screen during commercial breaks with a screen that says commercial break in progress and a silhouette background of MLB Players doing baseball things and the their crazy commercial breaks sound. I was excited to go back to DISH thinking I escaped the horrors of MLB.TV. Well its actually the same thing. I compared them side by side and actually MLB.TV is ahead by just a few seconds. So actually MLB Extra Innings on Satellite is delayed from time period wise from actually watching MLB.TV which shows it is simulcasted. My question is when did this start? And is this legal? This isn't what I know MLB Extra Innings to be. I too had signed up for NHL Center Ice this past winter and thank goodness its authentic! They still have the commercials and its like watching it as you were in their home network and its the way it oughta be even if you only do get one feed of NHL Center Ice per team on DISH and don't know which feed it is every night.
Looking forward to your responses. So far happy with DISH but unhappy with this last week and the ruining of a Wally HD Receiver.
I hope I can be of some contribution here as well.
Sincerely,
RJ T.
From Illinois
I am new here and I done a search on MLB Extra Innings and DISH and it led me to this forum and so I signed up and hopefully someone can help me out with some issues.
First off, I am a DISH Outdoors customer and I signed up for service back in late October of 2025. I have a Wally HD Receiver and I am using the DISH Playmaker OS 2.1 as my Antenna that operates on 110 and 119 Western Arc and Alternative 61.5, 110, and 119 satellites. I signed up for MLB Extra Innings back in March before the season began. I was excited to be able to watch MLB Extra Innings because I love baseball and I use to have MLB Extra Innings on Satellite DIRECTV back in 2001-2004 and on Satellite DISH back in 2016 and 2017.
I was a bit disappointed when I found out that it is actually MLB.TV Simulcasted to DISH Satellite (More on that later) Anyways I have been watching faithfully almost every night however about a week ago there was a problem. When I went to go to the game to watch a game the game wouldn't come in an I would send a refresh signal to my receiver and then I could watch the programming and when I went to switch games at that games appointed time slot my Wally HD Receiver who lockup where I couldn't change any channels or view the guide and it would reboot. The next night when I turned to a game at game start it still had the background it shows before the game started and again send a refresh signal and went though this same thing over and over. I added a movie channel to my lineup and had issues with showing up my Dish Wally HD Receiver.
With an investigation after several calls with DISH Support it was determined that by going to the diagnostics screen that I had a issue with my Tuner because any changes that I made to my programming these changes would not take affect on the Wally HD Receiver. In other words that Wally HD Receiver was toast!
I too had reported MLB Extra Innings issue to DISH and they created a ticket for it and said that someone would investigate the issue. I too took notice that under MyDISH account under MLB Extra Innings always before it would show that I was subscribed and on auto-renew. Now it shows nothing and even after logging out and deleting my User Name and Password so that I can see it in guest mode it too doesn't even list a price and option for purchase as does the now WNBA League Pass.
After my DISH Receiver was ruined I had to buy a new Wally HD Receiver. I took advantage an bought 2 HD Wally's and added them both to my account. I called back to remove the old box off of the account and was told it was linked to MLB Extra Innings and the advanced technical support team said there was a glitch with MLB Extra Innings and hope to have a resolution in a couple of days and I could call back in to then to remove the box. But both the 2 new Wally HD Receivers are activated on my account. I asked them what the problem was with MLB Extra Innings and how long it would be and I was told there was a glitch as I asked to specify what they meant and got no answer. I again went and checked the MyDISH account page under the MLB Extra Innings page and it still doesn't list me as subscribed and after logging out and deleting my User Name and Password so I could it see it as a guest mode and it still doesn't list the price and option for purchase as it does for the WNBA League Pass.
I am afraid to boot up these boxes and go through the activation screen process because of the issues with the MLB Extra Innings in fear it will do the same or mess up my boxes from being able to receive MLB Extra Inning because or any other programing because I was told that MLB Extra Innings wouldn't come in on those new box because it was activated with the Wally that is ruined and it needs removed first.
Now I have no DISH service going on a week and miss my MLB Extra Innings when the races are just heating up and now with two boxes activated I can't boot up because I am afraid it will mess them up and I will be out the $180.00 or so dollars I made in purchase on the receivers.
Is anyone else experiencing issues with their MLB Extra Innings and does anyone really know what this so called glitch actually is? I can't seem to get a clear answer from anybody and don't even know if it will even be fixed or anyone really understands it.
Now to my previous statement on how I was disappointed that MLB Extra Innings is actually MLB.TV in simulcast. When I had MLB Extra Innings before with DIRECTV in 2001-2004 and with DISH form 2016 and 2017. They would always show the commercials for every teams broadcast from their local market and all games would be authentic just as if you were watching in their home market. After I quit DISH I went to streaming for awhile and I done MLB.TV and I hated their features because of the no commercials, the delayed times of getting back after the commercial break, and not being able to listen to what studios had to say when they would cut into the studios, and always looking at the screen during commercial breaks with a screen that says commercial break in progress and a silhouette background of MLB Players doing baseball things and the their crazy commercial breaks sound. I was excited to go back to DISH thinking I escaped the horrors of MLB.TV. Well its actually the same thing. I compared them side by side and actually MLB.TV is ahead by just a few seconds. So actually MLB Extra Innings on Satellite is delayed from time period wise from actually watching MLB.TV which shows it is simulcasted. My question is when did this start? And is this legal? This isn't what I know MLB Extra Innings to be. I too had signed up for NHL Center Ice this past winter and thank goodness its authentic! They still have the commercials and its like watching it as you were in their home network and its the way it oughta be even if you only do get one feed of NHL Center Ice per team on DISH and don't know which feed it is every night.
Looking forward to your responses. So far happy with DISH but unhappy with this last week and the ruining of a Wally HD Receiver.
I hope I can be of some contribution here as well.
Sincerely,
RJ T.
From Illinois
8 Replies
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259 views
I know they are doing some major satellite work - the second satellite at 110 which is now in use, and they are moving channels between 119 and 110. Maybe since there are no other sports going on, have they temporarily cut back on the out of market sports packages? I am not sure. It looks like those channels are all coming from 119 TP 13, 110 TP 12, and 110 TP 09.
Also, Dish's Scheduled Satellite Maintenance page doesn't have anything going on:
my.dish.com
Also, Dish's Scheduled Satellite Maintenance page doesn't have anything going on:
MyDISH
Manage your DISH account online. Pay your bill, view programming, upgrade services, and access customer support at MyDISH.
R
This is a big shift for DISH. I just hope if Charlie Ergen does ever sell out to anyone that I can continue to use my DISH Playmaker and I can keep my Wally's. If its anything like what happened to DIRECTV a few years back which turned out to be a total disaster when AT&T acquired DIRECTV nothing there changed with boxes or anything and you continued to use the same service but I was very surprised to see AT&T sell it to TPG especially after they had just bought it now long ago.
RJ T.
From Illinois
Trying to get use to this forum and where everything is located at. I saw you responded from my post on the changes and took me a while to get back to see this post. But yes, it is exactly what I was thinking. I too noticed the change of MLB Extra Innings from 110 to 119. Because of 30 teams they have to algin everything. Only other sport going on PPV wise is WNBA League Pass and I do not have a subscription to that but maybe some else who has it can confirm what they done and what satellite and transponders they are on.I know they are doing some major satellite work - the second satellite at 110 which is now in use, and they are moving channels between 119 and 110. Maybe since there are no other sports going on, have they temporarily cut back on the out of market sports packages? I am not sure. It looks like those channels are all coming from 119 TP 13, 110 TP 12, and 110 TP 09.
Also, Dish's Scheduled Satellite Maintenance page doesn't have anything going on:
MyDISH
Manage your DISH account online. Pay your bill, view programming, upgrade services, and access customer support at MyDISH.
This is a big shift for DISH. I just hope if Charlie Ergen does ever sell out to anyone that I can continue to use my DISH Playmaker and I can keep my Wally's. If its anything like what happened to DIRECTV a few years back which turned out to be a total disaster when AT&T acquired DIRECTV nothing there changed with boxes or anything and you continued to use the same service but I was very surprised to see AT&T sell it to TPG especially after they had just bought it now long ago.
RJ T.
From Illinois
R
Noting went through on my screen. However take a look at this
my.dish.com
They have the page back up but it shows I need to purchase. On phone on hold waiting to connect to get this thing activated.
Will post shortly with update.
RJ T.
From Illinois
Update as of 6:40 P.M. CDT June 10, 2026...
Noting went through on my screen. However take a look at this
Dish TV
Manage your Dish TV account, programming, pay bills, and access your favorite channels with the MyDish app.
They have the page back up but it shows I need to purchase. On phone on hold waiting to connect to get this thing activated.
Will post shortly with update.
RJ T.
From Illinois
R
I now have MLB Extra Innings back! Look at the photo! (I did not include full image of the game due to copyright)
Let me just say it was rough! Very rough! And lets just say Charlie Ergen should be ashamed of his customer service team and how they handled this whole issue.
After multiple calls after my last post only to get the run around with answers like there are no refunds on MLB Extra Innings once the season starts, to they are working on it, to accessing my screen and sending multi hits to the box.
All I asked was one simple question remove the MLB Extra Innings which they confirmed I had and reauthorize free of charge. I was given a 1,000 reasons why this couldn't be done.
Well..........
I paid for it myself.... $120.00 current rate and it works!
I called back in to let them know what I done and what I thought of the customer service and told them I needed refunded. I was told they didn't do refunds....
Well again I called back and got someone who refunded the original payment of $150.00 back to my account. A $30 discount for all the hard trouble I went though.
It is now up to you all out there that have MLB Extra Innings to try to get them to do this but I am afraid you are going to have to take your own action and purchase again and beg for a refund or be out the $150.00 originally paid.
Persistence pays off. I don't give up very easily.
You can all go here below to make the purchase if you have any trouble.
my.dish.com
I hope it all works well for you! And best of luck to everyone who has it!
I will still be around on this forum. You all sound like a fine group of people! I hope I can contribute more.
Take care!
RJ T.
From Illinois
Update as of 6:40 P.M. CDT June 10, 2026...
Noting went through on my screen. However take a look at this
Dish TV
Manage your Dish TV account, programming, pay bills, and access your favorite channels with the MyDish app.
They have the page back up but it shows I need to purchase. On phone on hold waiting to connect to get this thing activated.
Will post shortly with update.
RJ T.
From Ill
Final Update... As of 8:08 P.M. CDT June 10, 2026.Update as of 6:40 P.M. CDT June 10, 2026...
Noting went through on my screen. However take a look at this
Dish TV
Manage your Dish TV account, programming, pay bills, and access your favorite channels with the MyDish app.
They have the page back up but it shows I need to purchase. On phone on hold waiting to connect to get this thing activated.
Will post shortly with update.
RJ T.
From Illinois
I now have MLB Extra Innings back! Look at the photo! (I did not include full image of the game due to copyright)
Let me just say it was rough! Very rough! And lets just say Charlie Ergen should be ashamed of his customer service team and how they handled this whole issue.
After multiple calls after my last post only to get the run around with answers like there are no refunds on MLB Extra Innings once the season starts, to they are working on it, to accessing my screen and sending multi hits to the box.
All I asked was one simple question remove the MLB Extra Innings which they confirmed I had and reauthorize free of charge. I was given a 1,000 reasons why this couldn't be done.
Well..........
I paid for it myself.... $120.00 current rate and it works!
I called back in to let them know what I done and what I thought of the customer service and told them I needed refunded. I was told they didn't do refunds....
Well again I called back and got someone who refunded the original payment of $150.00 back to my account. A $30 discount for all the hard trouble I went though.
It is now up to you all out there that have MLB Extra Innings to try to get them to do this but I am afraid you are going to have to take your own action and purchase again and beg for a refund or be out the $150.00 originally paid.
Persistence pays off. I don't give up very easily.
You can all go here below to make the purchase if you have any trouble.
Dish TV
Manage your Dish TV account, programming, pay bills, and access your favorite channels with the MyDish app.
I hope it all works well for you! And best of luck to everyone who has it!
I will still be around on this forum. You all sound like a fine group of people! I hope I can contribute more.
Take care!
RJ T.
From Illinois
Staff member
HERE TO HELP YOU!
Cutting Edge
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!
So let the game continue!
The last song was added by Bobby who posted...
One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters
CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!
Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game
Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.
Example:
Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow
Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio
Another example:
Ride the Lightning -- Metallica
Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne
Get it?
An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
So let the game continue!
The last song was added by Bobby who posted...
One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters
CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!
Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game
Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.
Example:
Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow
Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio
Another example:
Ride the Lightning -- Metallica
Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne
Get it?
An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
67100 Replies
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2662096 views
iJustine
Time for another AWESOME video from iJustine!
View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/fGLCGahxnA4
Direct YouTube Link - Surprising photo editing feature in iOS 27
The official iJustine Website's Website
Buy her book!
View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/fGLCGahxnA4
Direct YouTube Link - Surprising photo editing feature in iOS 27
The official iJustine Website's Website
Buy her book!
0 Replies
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6 views
I was bewildered with all the new DISH TV "Bonus View" channels, so I put together a web page table with all the info I could find. It's at:
https://anythingpeaceful.org/dishtv/DISH_TV_Bonus_View_Channels.html
Here's a partial screenshot of the table, as sorted by Channel Name. (You can click on a column header to sort.)
If you have any corrections or suggestions, please post here.
https://anythingpeaceful.org/dishtv/DISH_TV_Bonus_View_Channels.html
Here's a partial screenshot of the table, as sorted by Channel Name. (You can click on a column header to sort.)
If you have any corrections or suggestions, please post here.
32 Replies
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4653 views
T
2 Bonus View channels removed today:
My full list is at: DISH TV "Bonus View" Channels
Thanks to Pat for the tip.
My full list is at: DISH TV "Bonus View" Channels
Thanks to Pat for the tip.
T
One added, one removed. But I think it's really only a name change, with similar (or identical?) programming.
My full list is at: DISH TV "Bonus View" Channels
Thanks to Pat for the alert.
My full list is at: DISH TV "Bonus View" Channels
Thanks to Pat for the alert.
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63D71jRU_6I
Direct YouTube Link - Intelligent Machines 874
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63D71jRU_6I
Direct YouTube Link - Intelligent Machines 874
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
0 Replies
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9 views
New low power station has been granted by the FCC and the new call leter is K33OB-D on RF ch. 33.
Will run at 15 KW ERP, this one runs from the Westside same location as KWPL-LD a HC2 owned station.
It's going to be aimed at eastern part of Albuquerque, so it's tightly focused beam pattern.
This new station is owned by Digital Network and what kind of programmings is unkown at this time.
Will run at 15 KW ERP, this one runs from the Westside same location as KWPL-LD a HC2 owned station.
It's going to be aimed at eastern part of Albuquerque, so it's tightly focused beam pattern.
This new station is owned by Digital Network and what kind of programmings is unkown at this time.
8 Replies
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89 views
M
The 'get after it media' stations
www.getafteritmedia.com
Like Heartland, Retro, rev'n, Action etc
probably the same programming they have been putting on their other owned stations.
The 'get after it media' stations
Get After It Media
www.getafteritmedia.com
probably the same programming they have been putting on their other owned stations.
The 'get after it media' stations
Like Heartland, Retro, rev'n, Action etcGet After It Media
We already have those diginets here.
Yeah, there are some diginets like Heartland, Retro, The Family Channel diginetworks that we already have here in this market and we don't need duplicates, but bring the new diginets on like the Rev'n, Karate Acton movies, different kind of music videos on the new station. 
Yeah, there are some diginets like Heartland, Retro, The Family Channel diginetworks that we already have here in this market and we don't need duplicates, but bring the new diginets like Revn, Karate Acton movies, different kind of music videos on the new station.
I watch MovieSphere Gold channel a lot. Many recent movies on that digitnet
Yes that's a good channel MovieSphere, only thing is the missing CC on it. 
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!
View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/N6VtcsPcc3I
Direct YouTube Link - Siri AI Delayed in EU Over DMA
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/N6VtcsPcc3I
Direct YouTube Link - Siri AI Delayed in EU Over DMA
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
0 Replies
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7 views
Staff member
HERE TO HELP YOU!
We have a Breakfast and Dinner thread so...
Continuing from the Breakfast thread, found Cornbread mix so ...
Yellow Cornbread Mix
2 Hatch Green Chiles -diced
1 Egg
2/3 cup of milk
add to greased pan
Bake for 400f 20-25 minutes(From instructions)
now to put together and try... this to go with pinto beans...
Continuing from the Breakfast thread, found Cornbread mix so ...
Yellow Cornbread Mix
2 Hatch Green Chiles -diced
1 Egg
2/3 cup of milk
add to greased pan
Bake for 400f 20-25 minutes(From instructions)
now to put together and try... this to go with pinto beans...
5387 Replies
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334557 views
Pork shoulder, refried beans, cheddar and chopped green chile burrito with a pint of pale ale.
Its nice being able to have a pint with lunch during the week or whenever. I've been enjoying the retired life.
Its nice being able to have a pint with lunch during the week or whenever. I've been enjoying the retired life.
Congrats! I love retirement, no wake ups, no e-mails...Pork shoulder, refried beans, cheddar and chopped green chile burrito with a pint of pale ale.
Its nice being able to have a pint with lunch during the week or whenever. I've been enjoying the retired life.
View attachment 191651
Leftovers for lunch, bacon wrapped salmon fillet from Saturday and a KFC thigh from Friday, Tea.
Lifetime Supporter
EchoStar has filed with FCC for license and launch of the EchoStar 25 satellite at the nominal 110W slot.
------"At the nominal 110° W.L. orbital location, EchoStar is licensed to operate over 29 of the available 32 DBS channels (specifically channels 1-27, 29,and 31).3 Currently, EchoStar provides service over these channels from the 110° W.L. cluster utilizing the EchoStar 10, EchoStar 11 (in inclined orbit), and EchoStar 23 satellites; and from the 119° W.L. cluster utilizing the EchoStar 14 and EchoStar 15 satellites. EchoStar anticipates that EchoStar 25 will be ready for launch as early as the first quarter of 2026. EchoStar anticipates that EchoStar 25, a spot-beam satellite, will take over delivery of certain programming services from EchoStar 10 and 14. After launch and in-orbit testing ("IOT"),4EchoStar 25 will proceed directly to 110.0° ± 0.05° W.L. Once EchoStar 25 is placed into operation, EchoStar 10 will initially remain at 110.2° W.L. serving as an in-orbit spare and may ultimately be relocated subject to all appropriate Commission authorizations. EchoStar 14 will remain at the nominal 119° W.L. orbital location and serve as an in-orbit spare once EchoStar 25 begins service." -----
------"At the nominal 110° W.L. orbital location, EchoStar is licensed to operate over 29 of the available 32 DBS channels (specifically channels 1-27, 29,and 31).3 Currently, EchoStar provides service over these channels from the 110° W.L. cluster utilizing the EchoStar 10, EchoStar 11 (in inclined orbit), and EchoStar 23 satellites; and from the 119° W.L. cluster utilizing the EchoStar 14 and EchoStar 15 satellites. EchoStar anticipates that EchoStar 25 will be ready for launch as early as the first quarter of 2026. EchoStar anticipates that EchoStar 25, a spot-beam satellite, will take over delivery of certain programming services from EchoStar 10 and 14. After launch and in-orbit testing ("IOT"),4EchoStar 25 will proceed directly to 110.0° ± 0.05° W.L. Once EchoStar 25 is placed into operation, EchoStar 10 will initially remain at 110.2° W.L. serving as an in-orbit spare and may ultimately be relocated subject to all appropriate Commission authorizations. EchoStar 14 will remain at the nominal 119° W.L. orbital location and serve as an in-orbit spare once EchoStar 25 begins service." -----
80 Replies
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7830 views
