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I hate to resurrect such an old thread but this was some fantastic research and innovation to solve an old problem! I say old problem because I have sort of the same problem but not with an ASC1. I've got a pretty good electronics background and am a ham operator etc. I like to say I've been trying to electrocute myself since I was 10 or so! I also have a nice older Tektronix 468 oscilloscope. I am however, a bit slow sometimes. 
I never really thought noise was my problem but I am betting it is! I never thought of monitoring it with a scope! Duh! I'm using a Gbox and a Von Weise actuator that has an optical sensor and the Gbox doesn't supply the +5 votes for the sensor. I do have good ribbon cable that is a few years old but it is in great shape as far as I know.
So I needed +5 volts and the easiest way was to use an old Motorola phone charger to supply the sensor power. It works, woohoo! But, it loses count (over time) and I believe a modified version of this project could be used to filter the noise, convert the sync and supply the voltage. It'd be real nice if all of this fit inside the Gbox but a standalone device may be better.
What I have not been able to find is the details on how this was put together and what components were used other than the Standex-Meder Reed Relay SIL05-1A72-71D. I would only need a small board with the components. The Gbox has a black space on the back which I believe was for a polarity controller. I wish it had it, but it doesn't. That area could be used for connections or maybe I could make an external box to make it simpler to install if someone wanted to copy it. I believe it'd work fine as a standalone add-on.
I have searched and read all over the forum but can't find the details of when this all came together and how it's wired etc. I still intend to get an ASC1 fairly soon because I absolutely am tired of not having skew control, but in the meantime it'd be awesome to get a Gbox working properly with an optical sensor. Am I overlooking the details somewhere? Are they here on the forum?
Thanks.
I never really thought noise was my problem but I am betting it is! I never thought of monitoring it with a scope! Duh! I'm using a Gbox and a Von Weise actuator that has an optical sensor and the Gbox doesn't supply the +5 votes for the sensor. I do have good ribbon cable that is a few years old but it is in great shape as far as I know.
So I needed +5 volts and the easiest way was to use an old Motorola phone charger to supply the sensor power. It works, woohoo! But, it loses count (over time) and I believe a modified version of this project could be used to filter the noise, convert the sync and supply the voltage. It'd be real nice if all of this fit inside the Gbox but a standalone device may be better.
What I have not been able to find is the details on how this was put together and what components were used other than the Standex-Meder Reed Relay SIL05-1A72-71D. I would only need a small board with the components. The Gbox has a black space on the back which I believe was for a polarity controller. I wish it had it, but it doesn't. That area could be used for connections or maybe I could make an external box to make it simpler to install if someone wanted to copy it. I believe it'd work fine as a standalone add-on.
I have searched and read all over the forum but can't find the details of when this all came together and how it's wired etc. I still intend to get an ASC1 fairly soon because I absolutely am tired of not having skew control, but in the meantime it'd be awesome to get a Gbox working properly with an optical sensor. Am I overlooking the details somewhere? Are they here on the forum?
Thanks.
32 Replies
·
4362 views
Y
Hello again Brian,
It may be too early to call but I'm pretty sure I got the actuator fixed. It's never worked more than 5 minutes without an error once it started giving me problems. So, I've checked wiring and even the connections inside the Gbox. So we have a solid connection from the Gbox to the actuator...no, maybe not.
I forgot about the limit switches! Yep, dirt in those would cause it not to move as fast as expected and produce an error. I pushed them open (the little tab to make a hole to the inside) and blasted them full of contact cleaner and worked them about 50 times each. This actuator has been sitting since about 2000 or so. It's been running over a half hour and I've probably wasted a mile of dish movement but it hasn't failed yet!
I'll report back how it goes but I really think that was the problem and I know it may come back if the switches are iffy. If it runs a couple of days I'm probably good. If it starts doing it again I'll direct wire past the switches and see how that goes. It was one of those things that aggravation wasn't helping so I started thinking, where could the chain be broken at?
I appreciate your help and I ordered a Freesat V7 from the same people you did. I also got the WiFi dongle that was reported to work good with it from the same seller. Now I'm off to find the A/V RCA cable for it because I send it to the other room through an RF modulator, not real worried about picture quality and it's plenty good to watch. As for Decades, something fishy is going on there, maybe they're messing with us?
Oh, one question about the V7. Does it do HDMI and composite at the same time? That's a must for me unless I just buy a second one which I'll do anyway fairly soon. It's still going...thanks again.
It may be too early to call but I'm pretty sure I got the actuator fixed. It's never worked more than 5 minutes without an error once it started giving me problems. So, I've checked wiring and even the connections inside the Gbox. So we have a solid connection from the Gbox to the actuator...no, maybe not.
I forgot about the limit switches! Yep, dirt in those would cause it not to move as fast as expected and produce an error. I pushed them open (the little tab to make a hole to the inside) and blasted them full of contact cleaner and worked them about 50 times each. This actuator has been sitting since about 2000 or so. It's been running over a half hour and I've probably wasted a mile of dish movement but it hasn't failed yet!
I'll report back how it goes but I really think that was the problem and I know it may come back if the switches are iffy. If it runs a couple of days I'm probably good. If it starts doing it again I'll direct wire past the switches and see how that goes. It was one of those things that aggravation wasn't helping so I started thinking, where could the chain be broken at?
I appreciate your help and I ordered a Freesat V7 from the same people you did. I also got the WiFi dongle that was reported to work good with it from the same seller. Now I'm off to find the A/V RCA cable for it because I send it to the other room through an RF modulator, not real worried about picture quality and it's plenty good to watch. As for Decades, something fishy is going on there, maybe they're messing with us?
Oh, one question about the V7. Does it do HDMI and composite at the same time? That's a must for me unless I just buy a second one which I'll do anyway fairly soon. It's still going...thanks again.
Y
It turns out I was right, it was too early to call. It was still having problems when it warmed up in the daytime. I took the whole sensor board out and made a magnet wheel and used a glass reed switch. I thought and looked at it, and thought some more about how to encase and mount the reed switch. I was over engineering it a bit at that point.
The glass reed switches look like a resistor so I just bent the leads (very carefully) into the right shape to put the ends right under the screws where the sensor wires go. It's bent so it stands out and up under the wheel just right! I used a seasoning salt lid to make the wheel, one of the bigger ones. Just cut the threaded part off and you have a perfect size disc. My Von Weise has the optical wheel and the 1/4 shaft sticks up through it a bit, just enough that I made a hole in the disc and forced it on. I didn't need glue or anything and it's a nice tight fit and holds good. The optical disc braces it a bit too from the bottom.
I used six 3/16" dia. x 1/32" thick N52 magnets from K&J Magnetics. These here: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D301-N52
I glued them on with dollar store rubber cement and they're on there good. I tried slightly larger magnets that were 1/16" thick (N42 & N52) but the switch never opened. They were 1/4" dia. x 1/16" thick D41G-N52's and something a bit smaller than that but the same thickness. The thinner 1/32" ones were just the right strength. I think the width played a big part of this too. N42 & N52 are the strength ratings, the site explains it. There is a lot of cool info there.
The ones I used are very thin and strong and it doesn't miss a count, none, and I haven't had any errors! I linked them above but they are D301-N52's if you look them up by model number. The optical wheel had six slots and six magnets works great. When it was optical I couldn't get it to move by a 1 count, almost never, it'd jump 2 no matter how fast you hit the button. Now it'll count one at a time easily and consistently! Now that I've done it I could make one and install it in a half hour.
It works really good and time will tell if it's missing counts and getting out of sync but I just don't see how it can now. I wish I'd have done this before I ever put it on the dish, it's that good. I have a new Freesat V7 on the way, a new C/Ku LNBF from Brian and a dish that goes where you tell it and I told it to go a few places!
I'm guessing the optical sensor was the problem and it didn't crop up until it had been warm for a while. I installed it in the winter and one day it just went goofy. It was hard to pin down the problem. It would fake you out and make you think you had it fixed when it cooled off but then go goofy when it warmed up. When it rained it cooled off and it worked but I thought it was possibly getting water somewhere, took a while to soak in maybe. Nope, it was heat!
I found all of the info about where to get the magnets etc here in the forums. I also read that 10 or 12 magnets really doesn't noticeably help your resolution. It turns out 6 magnets fits and works good and it's so easy to do, I used all hand tools. I cut the disc out of the lid with a pocket knife and used a file to round the edges and smooth them. Then I just made a hole in the center, slightly smaller than the 1/4" shaft.
I used forceps to grip the lead on the reed switches right up next to the glass, very close to it. If you put pressure on the glass while bending the leads you'll break it so use the forceps! Needle nose pliers are not narrow enough to let you get the leads bent the direction you need them to go and have enough lead left to fit under the screws. Grip it tight so it doesn't turn and form it in sort of a U shape so it'll stick out and up at an angle when you put the ends under the screws. Tighten them down and you have it mounted! Once the cover is on it nothing can break the glass and it works great and is easy to change should you ever need to. Glue your magnets on the disc and force it on the shaft and you're good to go!
I have a nice camera and will get some photos of it posted. Photos will make it much easier to understand what I'm saying and it'll make perfect sense.
I got this 10 pack of reed switches for $3.24 total and got them in 3 or 4 days. When you order the magnets you'll see $15 shipping or something and I almost over looked where you click USPS and then you get $5 S&H. I have a few spares that are too big for this job, but I'll find something to use them for. My friend's 5 or 6 year old son swallowed some that he got from a boy at school and it messed that boy up! Keep them away from children, they stick their intestines together and it's a bad, bad, deal. Emergency surgery and all because the kid lied for days and just said he had a belly ache. Anyway, this is so simple to do and it flat makes it work. It's a two wire system now that the Gbox is compatible with and likes!
And I want to say thank you for all of the help Brian and Magic Static, Lone Gunman, and a couple of others who posted magnet wheel projects. I can't remember who all it was, but it was several. In my case just putting the switch leads under the screws is the way to go. No glue, no tape, no solder and no hassle. It just fits and works. I'll try and add the photos tomorrow, just have to pop the cover off.
Here are the switches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371323460047
The glass reed switches look like a resistor so I just bent the leads (very carefully) into the right shape to put the ends right under the screws where the sensor wires go. It's bent so it stands out and up under the wheel just right! I used a seasoning salt lid to make the wheel, one of the bigger ones. Just cut the threaded part off and you have a perfect size disc. My Von Weise has the optical wheel and the 1/4 shaft sticks up through it a bit, just enough that I made a hole in the disc and forced it on. I didn't need glue or anything and it's a nice tight fit and holds good. The optical disc braces it a bit too from the bottom.
I used six 3/16" dia. x 1/32" thick N52 magnets from K&J Magnetics. These here: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D301-N52
I glued them on with dollar store rubber cement and they're on there good. I tried slightly larger magnets that were 1/16" thick (N42 & N52) but the switch never opened. They were 1/4" dia. x 1/16" thick D41G-N52's and something a bit smaller than that but the same thickness. The thinner 1/32" ones were just the right strength. I think the width played a big part of this too. N42 & N52 are the strength ratings, the site explains it. There is a lot of cool info there.
The ones I used are very thin and strong and it doesn't miss a count, none, and I haven't had any errors! I linked them above but they are D301-N52's if you look them up by model number. The optical wheel had six slots and six magnets works great. When it was optical I couldn't get it to move by a 1 count, almost never, it'd jump 2 no matter how fast you hit the button. Now it'll count one at a time easily and consistently! Now that I've done it I could make one and install it in a half hour.
It works really good and time will tell if it's missing counts and getting out of sync but I just don't see how it can now. I wish I'd have done this before I ever put it on the dish, it's that good. I have a new Freesat V7 on the way, a new C/Ku LNBF from Brian and a dish that goes where you tell it and I told it to go a few places!
I'm guessing the optical sensor was the problem and it didn't crop up until it had been warm for a while. I installed it in the winter and one day it just went goofy. It was hard to pin down the problem. It would fake you out and make you think you had it fixed when it cooled off but then go goofy when it warmed up. When it rained it cooled off and it worked but I thought it was possibly getting water somewhere, took a while to soak in maybe. Nope, it was heat!
I found all of the info about where to get the magnets etc here in the forums. I also read that 10 or 12 magnets really doesn't noticeably help your resolution. It turns out 6 magnets fits and works good and it's so easy to do, I used all hand tools. I cut the disc out of the lid with a pocket knife and used a file to round the edges and smooth them. Then I just made a hole in the center, slightly smaller than the 1/4" shaft.
I used forceps to grip the lead on the reed switches right up next to the glass, very close to it. If you put pressure on the glass while bending the leads you'll break it so use the forceps! Needle nose pliers are not narrow enough to let you get the leads bent the direction you need them to go and have enough lead left to fit under the screws. Grip it tight so it doesn't turn and form it in sort of a U shape so it'll stick out and up at an angle when you put the ends under the screws. Tighten them down and you have it mounted! Once the cover is on it nothing can break the glass and it works great and is easy to change should you ever need to. Glue your magnets on the disc and force it on the shaft and you're good to go!
I have a nice camera and will get some photos of it posted. Photos will make it much easier to understand what I'm saying and it'll make perfect sense.
I got this 10 pack of reed switches for $3.24 total and got them in 3 or 4 days. When you order the magnets you'll see $15 shipping or something and I almost over looked where you click USPS and then you get $5 S&H. I have a few spares that are too big for this job, but I'll find something to use them for. My friend's 5 or 6 year old son swallowed some that he got from a boy at school and it messed that boy up! Keep them away from children, they stick their intestines together and it's a bad, bad, deal. Emergency surgery and all because the kid lied for days and just said he had a belly ache. Anyway, this is so simple to do and it flat makes it work. It's a two wire system now that the Gbox is compatible with and likes!
And I want to say thank you for all of the help Brian and Magic Static, Lone Gunman, and a couple of others who posted magnet wheel projects. I can't remember who all it was, but it was several. In my case just putting the switch leads under the screws is the way to go. No glue, no tape, no solder and no hassle. It just fits and works. I'll try and add the photos tomorrow, just have to pop the cover off.
Here are the switches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371323460047
Glad that fixed it for you! Nice write up - looking forward to those pics!It turns out I was right, it was too early to call. It was still having problems when it warmed up in the daytime. I took the whole sensor board out and made a magnet wheel and used a glass reed switch. I thought and looked at it, and thought some more about how to encase and mount the reed switch. I was over engineering it a bit at that point.
The glass reed switches look like a resistor so I just bent the leads (very carefully) into the right shape to put the ends right under the screws where the sensor wires go. It's bent so it stands out and up under the wheel just right! I used a seasoning salt lid to make the wheel, one of the bigger ones. Just cut the threaded part off and you have a perfect size disc. My Von Weise has the optical wheel and the 1/4 shaft sticks up through it a bit, just enough that I made a hole in the disc and forced it on. I didn't need glue or anything and it's a nice tight fit and holds good. The optical disc braces it a bit too from the bottom.
I used six 3/16" dia. x 1/32" thick N52 magnets from K&J Magnetics. These here: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D301-N52
I glued them on with dollar store rubber cement and they're on there good. I tried slightly larger magnets that were 1/16" thick (N42 & N52) but the switch never opened. They were 1/4" dia. x 1/16" thick D41G-N52's and something a bit smaller than that but the same thickness. The thinner 1/32" ones were just the right strength. I think the width played a big part of this too. N42 & N52 are the strength ratings, the site explains it. There is a lot of cool info there.
The ones I used are very thin and strong and it doesn't miss a count, none, and I haven't had any errors! I linked them above but they are D301-N52's if you look them up by model number. The optical wheel had six slots and six magnets works great. When it was optical I couldn't get it to move by a 1 count, almost never, it'd jump 2 no matter how fast you hit the button. Now it'll count one at a time easily and consistently! Now that I've done it I could make one and install it in a half hour.
It works really good and time will tell if it's missing counts and getting out of sync but I just don't see how it can now. I wish I'd have done this before I ever put it on the dish, it's that good. I have a new Freesat V7 on the way, a new C/Ku LNBF from Brian and a dish that goes where you tell it and I told it to go a few places!
I'm guessing the optical sensor was the problem and it didn't crop up until it had been warm for a while. I installed it in the winter and one day it just went goofy. It was hard to pin down the problem. It would fake you out and make you think you had it fixed when it cooled off but then go goofy when it warmed up. When it rained it cooled off and it worked but I thought it was possibly getting water somewhere, took a while to soak in maybe. Nope, it was heat!
I found all of the info about where to get the magnets etc here in the forums. I also read that 10 or 12 magnets really doesn't noticeably help your resolution. It turns out 6 magnets fits and works good and it's so easy to do, I used all hand tools. I cut the disc out of the lid with a pocket knife and used a file to round the edges and smooth them. Then I just made a hole in the center, slightly smaller than the 1/4" shaft.
I used forceps to grip the lead on the reed switches right up next to the glass, very close to it. If you put pressure on the glass while bending the leads you'll break it so use the forceps! Needle nose pliers are not narrow enough to let you get the leads bent the direction you need them to go and have enough lead left to fit under the screws. Grip it tight so it doesn't turn and form it in sort of a U shape so it'll stick out and up at an angle when you put the ends under the screws. Tighten them down and you have it mounted! Once the cover is on it nothing can break the glass and it works great and is easy to change should you ever need to. Glue your magnets on the disc and force it on the shaft and you're good to go!
I have a nice camera and will get some photos of it posted. Photos will make it much easier to understand what I'm saying and it'll make perfect sense.
I got this 10 pack of reed switches for $3.24 total and got them in 3 or 4 days. When you order the magnets you'll see $15 shipping or something and I almost over looked where you click USPS and then you get $5 S&H. I have a few spares that are too big for this job, but I'll find something to use them for. My friend's 5 or 6 year old son swallowed some that he got from a boy at school and it messed that boy up! Keep them away from children, they stick their intestines together and it's a bad, bad, deal. Emergency surgery and all because the kid lied for days and just said he had a belly ache. Anyway, this is so simple to do and it flat makes it work. It's a two wire system now that the Gbox is compatible with and likes!
And I want to say thank you for all of the help Brian and Magic Static, Lone Gunman, and a couple of others who posted magnet wheel projects. I can't remember who all it was, but it was several. In my case just putting the switch leads under the screws is the way to go. No glue, no tape, no solder and no hassle. It just fits and works. I'll try and add the photos tomorrow, just have to pop the cover off.
Here are the switches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371323460047
Y
Ok, here is a couple of photos. By looking at the first photo you can see the leads of the reed switch are under the tabs but I think I'll make another one with some lugs soldered onto them. It's working fine but I don't like the looks of it, looks like it could move and come loose. You can also see that I chipped the glass on the right side of the switch, didn't know that until I seen these closeups.
In the second photo you can see the whole wheel and the mess I made with the glue. I was putting on and removing different size magnets and when it worked I just left it on there. If you glue on the right size to begin with you won't have that mess. Also, you can see that the reed switch is not fully under the magnet wheel but when you have the switch in your hand just holding a magnet close enough to the lead closes the switch. I guess it magnetizes the lead and pulls it closed. Still, I'd rather have the switch directly under the magnets and lugs on the leads would give me more lead length to bend it that direction. But the fact is this works great just the way it is. The photos were taken with a Nikon D7100 and I processed the raw files so that's why they're so good. I reduced them to 2MP from 24MP for file size.
In the second photo you can see the whole wheel and the mess I made with the glue. I was putting on and removing different size magnets and when it worked I just left it on there. If you glue on the right size to begin with you won't have that mess. Also, you can see that the reed switch is not fully under the magnet wheel but when you have the switch in your hand just holding a magnet close enough to the lead closes the switch. I guess it magnetizes the lead and pulls it closed. Still, I'd rather have the switch directly under the magnets and lugs on the leads would give me more lead length to bend it that direction. But the fact is this works great just the way it is. The photos were taken with a Nikon D7100 and I processed the raw files so that's why they're so good. I reduced them to 2MP from 24MP for file size.
Staff member
HERE TO HELP YOU!
Cutting Edge
Sometimes a thread gets so many posts in it that is can cause issues for the server so that why today we introduce The Song Name Game Part 3!
So let the game continue!
The last song was added by Bobby who posted...
One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters
CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!
Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game
Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.
Example:
Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow
Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio
Another example:
Ride the Lightning -- Metallica
Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne
Get it?
An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
So let the game continue!
The last song was added by Bobby who posted...
One Meat Ball - Andrews Sisters
CONTINUE ON AND HAVE FUN! WELCOME HOME TO SATELLITEGUYS.US!
Here are the original rules for the game as posted by WebbyDude back in 2006. http://www.satelliteguys.us/threads/68645-Song-Name-Game
Just name a song title and the band who performed it. The next person does the same thing, but needs to list a song title or band name which includes a word from the previous entry. Pick songs from any genre.
Example:
Long Live Rock and Roll -- Rainbow
Rainbow in the Dark -- Dio
Another example:
Ride the Lightning -- Metallica
Lightning Strikes -- Ozzy Osbourne
Get it?
An additional note: we all know that song titles, sometimes, use profane words. Because this is a family friendly website it is advised that you clean up that title up a bit. This is accomplished by using something like sh!t instead of the real word. Thanks....
68496 Replies
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2670641 views
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!
View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/z72cjoZP83E
Direct YouTube Link - AI Can Self-Replicate: Unplugging the Threat! #shorts
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/z72cjoZP83E
Direct YouTube Link - AI Can Self-Replicate: Unplugging the Threat! #shorts
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
0 Replies
·
9 views
TWiT Tech Podcast Network
Time for another AWESOME video from the TWIT Network!
View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/w5TOILSc_U8
Direct YouTube Link - AI Model Poisoning: The Hidden Threat on Hugging Face #shorts
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/w5TOILSc_U8
Direct YouTube Link - AI Model Poisoning: The Hidden Threat on Hugging Face #shorts
TWIT's Website
TWIT Live Feed
0 Replies
·
6 views
Supporting Founder
Several Dish offers showed up today in my account. Once you choose one the rest are removed. Offers were Showtime, Starz, AMC and others.
32 Replies
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1568 views
Not for me, mines has no mention of how long aka the offer period and the Terms and conditions the $0.00 is good for. All I see is one can lose $5.00 if you decide to remove it before day 31 after you add it to the account.
Pub Member / Supporter
Cutting Edge
I created this thread on the original Edgecutter Cutting Edge Forums site. It's simply a place for those to review the latest software available for those using Windows 10 and Windows 11. To date it has received 112,559 views. I have been asked by staff to continue this thread here.
521 Replies
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47207 views
To each there own but I've found that Windows can't do much more than Linux can. Can't have everything.
For niche use cases, yes I agree. Kali for ethical hacking and security testing, and running a Cacti server for network monitoring are the two things I have experience in. Plus thousands and thousands of other things, but for every day use I just can't see it. The owner of the GMRS repeater that I pay to access is changing the Tx DPL tones tomorrow, while Chirp is available on Linux, the software to program my MXT500 is not.To each there own but I've found that Windows can't do much more than Linux can. Can't have everything.
I run Fedora and Ubuntu in VMWare, honestly I don't care much for the UI of either of them and I don't feel like spending days/weeks to customize the UI to make it look Windows-like when I could just use Windows. The cartoonish dock at the bottom of the screen reminds me of Apple products.
As I said above, and, FWIW, I run Win11 Pro and Arch on separate 250 GB NVME drives, using F8 to select which I boot to, with a 1TB SSD for storage, accessible to both OSs and a third formatted Nvme I want to use to learn Kali. It was much faster to setup Arch than it was to strip down Windows. Windows still takes much longer to boot.
For some reason, the satelliteguys.us site is loading a lot slower than usual on both Chrome on my Asus laptop and Safari on my iPhone.
I'm also seeing longer appearances of the blue bar at the top and the "3 blue bars" loading symbol.
Is anyone else also having the same problem? Thanks in advance.
I'm also seeing longer appearances of the blue bar at the top and the "3 blue bars" loading symbol.
Is anyone else also having the same problem? Thanks in advance.
527 Replies
·
17931 views
Remember folks... just like DNS... its always Foxbat. 
WTF… …What the Foxbat!Remember folks... just like DNS... its always Foxbat.
S
wow what a kick in the balls!!! the wife blames you when things don't work now scott's blaming youWTF… …What the Foxbat!
I know. Here's what Scott has in store for me if I get out of line:wow what a kick in the balls!!! the wife blames you when things don't work now scott's blaming you
Help, I'm a little confjused on the activation process.
I purchased the Joey 4 from Solid Signal and shipping box has Call 866 726-4282 to Avtivate new Receiver. That number is Solid Signals number.
I googled and that search said call Dish to activate. I assume that is correct unless this requires a 2 step process.
Please let me know.
Thanks
I purchased the Joey 4 from Solid Signal and shipping box has Call 866 726-4282 to Avtivate new Receiver. That number is Solid Signals number.
I googled and that search said call Dish to activate. I assume that is correct unless this requires a 2 step process.
Please let me know.
Thanks
6 Replies
·
203 views
All good called Dish and new Joey 4 is activated and working.
Old Joey 2 deactivated and no need to return.
Old Joey 2 deactivated and no need to return.
S
i bought mine straight from dish as it was only $ 100.00 bucks!!! had the protection plan they came out removed and deactivated the 4k joey and activated and installed the joey 4.All good called Dish and new Joey 4 is activated and working.
Old Joey 2 deactivated and no need to return.
Supporting Founder
Pub Member / Supporter
Lifetime Supporter
Apple has finally released their Apple TV 4K with built-in Siri and a microphone so it can respond to your queries even if you don't have the remote. It also increases in price, to $299. I had been planning on updating my current Apple TV 4K streamers, but that's $600 for the two of them, and that's a pass at this point.
At $299, it had better come with 256 GB of Storage, Gigabit (or better) Ethernet, the latest HDMI tech and standards, and one year of free Apple One. But it probably won't…
At $299, it had better come with 256 GB of Storage, Gigabit (or better) Ethernet, the latest HDMI tech and standards, and one year of free Apple One. But it probably won't…
Apple TV 4K
Apple TV 4K. New Siri AI and hands-free control. Stunning picture and immersive HomePod surround sound. Works with your Apple and smart home devices.
www.apple.com
14 Replies
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184 views
S
. apple's been making money off of software and not hardware for a while
they all do that anyways.. ever notice your cell phone slows down when you come up for an upgrade..
. apple's been making money off of software and not hardware for a while
The new curated multiview is now live.
While on many of the sports channels and non sports channels there is a multi view option button. It will pull up a side bar with many different multi view options.
While on many of the sports channels and non sports channels there is a multi view option button. It will pull up a side bar with many different multi view options.
3 Replies
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167 views
Supporting Founder
Really excited for this season with Kentucky having a new coach and some really exciting recruits. Probably won't last long, but here's hoping this season is great.
141 Replies
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1360 views
