722k remote problem (MAJOR PROBLEM)

brad1138

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Mar 20, 2006
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Red Dwarf
I installed 2 722k's today, by the end of the day both customers had called in saying their #1 remotes had stopped working. My boss went out to both customers houses this evening to try to figure out what was going on. He verified that the LCD TVs (1 Sony/1 Visio) were causing the remotes to stop working. They are giving out some light frequency/wavelength that is overwhelming the ir sensor in the 722k. Both remotes worked fine when I set them up, but within a few hours they stopped. Apparently E* is aware of this and has a list of TVS that cause this problem. The only fix is to upgrade the #1 remote to UHF.

Man is this a BIG screw up on E*s end. I have seen over the years, florescent lights kill E* remotes, but it has been rare.

My boss is looking into if E* is going to supply free UHF remotes to fix this prob, we shouldn't have to supply them at a cost of ~$15 each to fix E*s problem.
 
LCD's problem

I installed 2 722k's today, by the end of the day both customers had called in saying their #1 remotes had stopped working. My boss went out to both customers houses this evening to try to figure out what was going on. He verified that the LCD TVs (1 Sony/1 Visio) were causing the remotes to stop working. They are giving out some light frequency/wavelength that is overwhelming the ir sensor in the 722k. Both remotes worked fine when I set them up, but within a few hours they stopped. Apparently E* is aware of this and has a list of TVS that cause this problem. The only fix is to upgrade the #1 remote to UHF.

Man is this a BIG screw up on E*s end. I have seen over the years, florescent lights kill E* remotes, but it has been rare.

My boss is looking into if E* is going to supply free UHF remotes to fix this prob, we shouldn't have to supply them at a cost of ~$15 each to fix E*s problem.

It's not E* lack of design it's the LCD's manufacturer think that it's not their problem. It is probably also happening with other boxes as well.
 
whatchel is right. A lot of new panels generate a ton of IR lately. I have a neighbor that has a Sharp that was so 'loud' that I had to buy him a Hot Link Pro repeater system so that the IR eye could be hidden behind the TV and ran emitters to each of his components including his 722.

It wasn't his 722 that was the worse but with all the IR his Apple TV refused to respond and even rebooted randomly as it got totally confused at times.

As was said, Infra Red was a reasonable solution when all we had were cathode ray TV's. But LCD's and Plasmas are IR beasts! Some are tamer than others.
 
I have a 722K that would not work with my Sony LCD. It would work if the ambient lighting was high. But in the evening when the room was darkened it would not work. I found if I cover the tv screen or shine a flashlight at the 722k the IR remote would work. I contacted Dish and they sent me a UHF remote. My DVD player and Audio amplifier works OK with their IR remotes and the Dish remote in IR.
 
Cover up the left and center part of the sensor (on the receiver) with a pc of tape.... usually does the trick otherwise you are stuck turning the remote into UHF
 
Cover up the left and center part of the sensor (on the receiver) with a pc of tape.... usually does the trick otherwise you are stuck turning the remote into UHF

FYI

The left and right windows are IR transmiters and only the center window is the IR receiver.
 
Just turn off the auto contrast on your tv and the remote should work fine. I have 4 Toshiba hdtvs in my house and 3 are lcd tvs. I had to turn off all the auto contrast or Dyna light controls ,so it won't interfere with the remote control working.
 
On the receiver? Where is the IR transmitting TO?

Or if you're talking about the remote, what is it receiving IR from?
On the receiver.

They are in there from when all Dish receivers would start and stop a VCR recording by blasting (transmiting) the VCRs IR codes.

DISH continues to this day to build their receiver with the IR blasters.
 
FYI

The left and right windows are IR transmiters and only the center window is the IR receiver.


It still works... only had a few not work which pushes you to the UHF Pro remotes which are hard to come by since Dish won't even let you keep a few extra's from DOA boxes anymore.
 
The left and right "windows" are IR blasters so these receivers can control VCR's that are in the same room by flooding the room with the IR signal.
 
Same problem. Need Help!!

Hello Gurus,

I am new to this forum and desperate to get my IR remote work with my new Dish Network's 722K receiver.


The IR remote ONLY works when i put my remote very close and just in front of the DVR. But, if I move back (2 feet away), it just doesn't work.


I have my receiver connected to my Sony 52" LCD (via HDMI). The system information on the receiver says the following:

Model ID ViP722k DVR-HD
Software Version: L656RMGB-N
Boot Strap Version: 1332RMGB
Receiver Mode: Dual Mode

Primary Remote Address [1] IR
Secondary Remote Address [2] UHF Pro Band B


P.S. If I switch to UHF Pro, everything works just fine and as expected but I need the IR to work so that I can setup my Harmony 880 remote!!


Some of you recommend to cover the receiver to avoid IR interference! Cover with what? Also, which part? (One said "left and center" and the other said "left and right"). Appreciate if you could elaborate and give clear instructions.


Thanking you in advance. Appreciate your help in this regard.

Best Regards.
 
Last edited:
Hello Gurus,

I am new to this forum and desperate to get my IR remote work with my new Dish Network's 722K receiver.


The IR remote ONLY works when i put my remote very close and just in front of the DVR. But, if I move back (2 feet away), it just doesn't work.


I have my receiver connected to my Sony 52" LCD (via HDMI). The system information on the receiver says the following:

Model ID ViP722k DVR-HD
Software Version: L656RMGB-N
Boot Strap Version: 1332RMGB
Receiver Mode: Dual Mode

Primary Remote Address [1] IR
Secondary Remote Address [2] UHF Pro Band B


P.S. If I switch to UHF Pro, everything works just fine and as expected but I need the IR to work so that I can setup my Harmony 880 remote!!


Some of you recommend to cover the receiver to avoid IR interference! Cover with what? Also, which part? (One said "left and center" and the other said "left and right"). Appreciate if you could elaborate and give clear instructions.


Thanking you in advance. Appreciate your help in this regard.

Best Regards.

As said earlier, turn off any auto contrast and or back-lighting controls. Use normal brightness/controls to compensate. I consider them "gimmicks" to begin with.
 
Last edited:
As said earlier, turn off any auto contrast and or back-lighting controls. Use normal normal brightness/controls controls to compensate. I consider them "gimmicks" to begin with.

Man thanks KAB, for taking some time to reply and trying to help me out.

This morning, before turning on my TV, I tried to power on the receiver from about 3 feet away and it doesn't work! It only works when i put my remote very close and just in front of the receiver!!

Is this common? I mean this would have been a good test to confirm that there is some IR interference from my 52" LCD TV.
 
There have been MANY discussions regarding this. So yeh, not uncommon.

Yes, I have seen multiple posts but unfortunately in neither thread, we have definitive suggestion/trick to the problem! Also, I don't see all the members who reported the problem confirm whether a particular suggestion/trick really worked for reference purposes!!

Anyways KAB, do you know how/where to cover the IR sensors with black tape to avoid the IR interference?

Also, what other tests we can do to confirm that there is indeed some IR interference in my TV room?

Thanks in advance.
 
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