"Amp"... me up !

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It always puzzles me why amplifiers have such a bad reputation here. When properly used they can improve performance even on relatively short cable runs. However it is true when improperly used they can cause problems that can be very difficult to isolate.

It also puzzles me why RG-11 is often elevated to demigod status. Yes, it is better than RG-6, but not by much. There are different specs published, but the following is probably in the ballpark (see bottom of the link's webpage):

Coax Cable Frequency Loss, DC Resistance, Flooded, Plenum RG-6, RG-11

At 1 GHz RG-6 has a loss of 6.5 dB/100' while RG-11 has a loss of 5 dB/100'. At 2.25 GHz, the numbers are 10 and 8 dB/100' respectively. This means I can lay 130' of RG-11 and get about the same performance as 100' of RG-6. For me this is a ho-hum improvement.

On the other hand with a decent amplifier I can lay 300' of RG-6 and get about the same performance as 100' of RG-6 without. In most cases an amplifier will cost less than the additional cost of RG-11 over RG-6. This is not a ho-hum improvement in my book.

There are other benefits to using amplifiers, particularly when using switching networks and even low output LNBs. Amplifiers cannot improve the CNR of a signal as it comes out of the LNB, but they can prevent the CNR from deteriorating in the path to the receiver. To dismiss them out-of-hand is rather sad.

Pendragon,

I realize and understand what you are saying about "written specifications" for different cables and what a person can prove with simple math. However, there are many nice advantages in doing things with passive devices, as opposed to powered and active components. Especially in regards to maintenance and compatibility issues.

One thing for certain, a signal amp will not help you with DC line losses for operating a H-H motor or a voltage controlled LNBF or switch. The RG-11 cable improves this over the RG-6 cable. A signal amplifier won't assist in this aspect as it does not amplify the DC signal from the receiver.

At 1 GHz RG-6 has a loss of 6.5 dB/100' while RG-11 has a loss of 5 dB/100'. At 2.25 GHz, the numbers are 10 and 8 dB/100' respectively. This means I can lay 130' of RG-11 and get about the same performance as 100' of RG-6. For me this is a ho-hum improvement.

In your statement that I quoted above, remember, that the dB scale is a logarithmic scale and a difference in 3 dB is either 1/2X or 2X the power. So, if you compare a 200 foot run of RG-6 cable and a 200 foot run of RG-11 cable at 1 GHz, the result is 13 dB loss for RG-6 vs 10 dB loss for RG-11. This is a difference of 3 dB or 1/2 the effective power for the same distance of cable. Considerably worse at 2GHz.

Actually calculating the differences out per foot is a bit too much for this time of my morning, but, for a real world scenario, I was able to compare the difference between 300 feet of RG-6 to 300 feet of RG-11 and I found a very substantial difference at the receiver. As well as with the motor and LNBF operation. Therefore, I found out first hand that RG-11 provided me with an extreme advantage over RG-6.

I am a firm advocate of using the least possible powered or active devices in any system. All such devices do add some level of their own backgound or amplifier "noise" whereas a passive device like a better cable does not. Therefore, powered devices and amplifiers intrinsically diminish the CNR right off the bat whereas a passive component, such as a better quality cable, will not. Keeping the overall system as simplistic as possible is always the best policy and that is probably my biggest reason for avoiding amplifiers.

RADAR
 
Radar > I'm with your math on this (fortunately its afternoon for me). I think what people tend to forget is that amps amplify noise as well as signal and the longer the cable the more possible problems. Amps do have their place but I prefer a larger dish option to amps
Incidently I notice a number of receiver manufacturers now have an option to increase the DC switching voltages for longer runs

Pendragon > interesting article on the coax, In Europe we mainly use BC core with copper foil and braid. For some reason it does not seem to be any more expensive than what I pay for the aluminum foil when in the US.
Only yesterday I was looking at a 200ft flood cable for a loss 30 dBuV from end to end and found it almost severed by a keen gardener but the gel had held integrity to actually retain a picture. I have to say I do not like direct burial for any cabling Schedule 40 tube is pretty cheap and easy when you need to put in that next cable
 
I realize and understand what you are saying about "written specifications" for different cables and what a person can prove with simple math. However, there are many nice advantages in doing things with passive devices, as opposed to powered and active components. Especially in regards to maintenance and compatibility issues.

I guess it depends on one's perspective. I prefer to employ amplifiers as needed, partly because of maintenance and compatibility issues. By tuning the gain for each cable run so the levels are about the same, I find it much easier to troubleshoot any problems that might occur. I have also found this minimizes the compatibility issues between different tuners and switches that may perform differently at low signal levels. I want the performance of any tuner to be as good in the house as if it's patched directly to the LNB with a 1' cable. That's the main reason I use amps.

Granted there may be a reduction in system reliability when amps are added, but I expect it to be close to negligible. I can't quantify this because MTBFs and/or failure rates are generally unavailable for FTA devices. However if one compares the circuitry in a FTA amplifier to what is inside LNBs, switches and receivers, one will see the component count in an amplifier is small compared to other devices. Reliabilities tend to scale inversely with circuit complexity.

From an anecdotal point of view, I have used amplifiers in satellite and OTA applications nearly 40 years. I am not aware of a single failure or loss of performance. In the case of a couple of OTA amps I put up 35 years ago for my parents, who live in a deep fringe area, I checked these a couple of weeks ago and they measure the same as when they were installed.

One thing for certain, a signal amp will not help you with DC line losses for operating a H-H motor or a voltage controlled LNBF or switch. The RG-11 cable improves this over the RG-6 cable. A signal amplifier won't assist in this aspect as it does not amplify the DC signal from the receiver.

I did say RG-11 is better cable, but as with signal attenuation, the improvement it offers in DC losses over RG-6 may be less than one might expect. If one compares apples to apples (similar construction), RG-6 has a DC resistance about twice that of RG-11. The question is how much this matters.

I'll consider a fairly extreme case of a 300' run with a LNB that draws 150 ma and a DiSEqC motor that draws 350 ma. Most LNBs draw considerably less and the DG-380 motor I looked up draws 200 ma under "normal" load. At this distance I would likely not use coax for motor power, but if I had to I would certainly go with copper-core and probably quad shield. For RG-6/RG-11 there will be a 0.5V/0.25V drop with the LNB only and a 1.65V/0.84V drop with the motor running. The improvement that RG-11 offers is 0.81V for LNB + motor running and 0.25V for LNB + motor off. This is well within the tolerances the LNB and motor are designed to operate within, and I don't think either will matter very much.

In your statement that I quoted above, remember, that the dB scale is a logarithmic scale and a difference in 3 dB is either 1/2X or 2X the power. So, if you compare a 200 foot run of RG-6 cable and a 200 foot run of RG-11 cable at 1 GHz, the result is 13 dB loss for RG-6 vs 10 dB loss for RG-11. This is a difference of 3 dB or 1/2 the effective power for the same distance of cable. Considerably worse at 2GHz.

I don't get your point. As I said in my original post the loss for either 1 or 2.25 GHz is about the same with 130' of RG-11 as with 100' of RG-6. The point is a properly placed amplifier can easily compensate for a loss of signal power with an almost immeasurable loss in CNR. In fact, a proper choice of amplifier with RG-6 will generally outperform unamplified RG-11 because it will compensate for tilt. With RG-11 alone you will have higher losses at the higher frequencies. Been there, done that a thousand times.

Actually calculating the differences out per foot is a bit too much for this time of my morning, but, for a real world scenario, I was able to compare the difference between 300 feet of RG-6 to 300 feet of RG-11 and I found a very substantial difference at the receiver. As well as with the motor and LNBF operation. Therefore, I found out first hand that RG-11 provided me with an extreme advantage over RG-6.

I will not argue against RG-11 being one option that can help with longer cable runs. If it works for you, I am not trying to convince you to change. But cable is one component that is easy to measure/spec, is manufactured to fairly close tolerances and performs very close to calculated values. I don't know what you mean by "substantial" and "extreme advantage", but I would not use the same adjectives. I have a 500' roll of RG-6 and a 500' roll of RG-11 and when I measure the DC losses and sweep them on my spectrum analyzer I see pretty close to the specified numbers. RG-11 is certainly better, but not by a lot. And if I insert an amplifier into the RG-6 line, it blows away RG-11 alone on attenuation and tilt, and when feeding even my most sensitive tuner I see a better CNR with the RG-6/amp combination vs. RG-11 alone.

My one concern is that if you see the drastic difference in performance you are reporting at only 300', there may be other issues that need to be solved in your system because it appears you might be near a threshold point.

I am a firm advocate of using the least possible powered or active devices in any system. All such devices do add some level of their own backgound or amplifier "noise" whereas a passive device like a better cable does not. Therefore, powered devices and amplifiers intrinsically diminish the CNR right off the bat whereas a passive component, such as a better quality cable, will not. Keeping the overall system as simplistic as possible is always the best policy and that is probably my biggest reason for avoiding amplifiers.

I think you are missing the point. LNBs and receivers are certainly not passive and have considerable gain built-in. If there's enough gain for the cable run, there is no reason to use an amplifier. However LNBs cannot be built with too much gain or there would be the potential to saturate the front-end of some receivers on a short cable run.

The demodulator sections of a receiver will generally only perform optimally in a very narrow range of input level. To compensate this, tuners have a variable gain stage, called an AGC, that automatically adjusts its gain so the signal drives the demod at its preferred level. As one increases the signal attenuation with longer cable runs, the tuner's AGC must necessarily increase its gain.

The problem with this approach is that it quickly leads to compromised CNR. A LNB should output the transponder signal level so the dish's noise level is well above the theoretical thermal noise of the characteristic impedance of the distribution coax. However with long cable runs, the dish noise level gets closer to the characteristic impedance's thermal noise. When the tuner's AGC kicks in, the additional gain is also applied to the latter's thermal noise.

Compare this to putting an amplifier right after the LNB. The difference between the transponder levels and the dish's inherent noise floor will be virtually the same coming out of the amp, but this will be at a much higher absolute level. The tuner's AGC will drop its amplification of the characteristic impedance's thermal noise by the amount of the amplifier's gain. This can result in very measurable improvements in CNR relative to the unamplified case. This is a classic example of "you can pay me now or you can pay me later".

I have omitted the example calculations I provided in earlier threads that quantify this. There are different approaches people take and I have no problem if someone gets something to work with a different technique than I would use. But no amount of ingenuity and wishing can overcome the laws of physics, which happen to apply extremely accurately to the domain of satellite signal reception. There is enough slop built into the systems we use to provide good reception even when the approach employed is not the best. In this case, one has a choice to put the gain at the tuner (with the AGC) or at the LNB (with an amp). Both will work, but one will always work better when properly implemented.
 
Pendragon,

Excellent reply. Thank You!

I have virtually no first hand experience with amplifiers, since I haven't used one since I was a kid in college and just experimenting with junk and salvaged stuff that I could get my hands on for next to nothing if possible (that went along with the macaroni and cheese dinners). Ha Ha. :) That was many years ago, but I do remember saturating the front end of my amplifiers on a cable system and having a horrid looking picture. I was just investigating the stuff without really knowing anything about it back then.

You obviously have a great deal of history and application knowledge of amplifiers and can manage them well, so you have a great potential to open my mind to them.

As for my detected differences between the application of RG-6 and RG-11 cable for my particular case... I had a few low power signals that my receiver would not "lock" when I tried to use RG-6 initially. I could get them to lock acceptably at the dish itself, but after running that much cable, the receiver just refused to acknowledge them. My first choice, because of the distance I needed to cover, was to try the RG-11 cable. If that proved to still be insuffiencient, then I had it in mind to try an amplifier. However, I found that the RG-11 cable resolved this situation. Every signal that I know of that I can lock within 5 feet of the dish itself, will also lock at the receiver in the house 300+ feet away, so I was pleased and content with this result.

The other issue was with my motor control. Occasionaly, I would have to click the remote back and forth between two satellites to get the motor to drive. It was infrequent, but enough so, that it annoyed me. Since installing the RG-11 cable, I have not experienced this problem once.

Most often, though, it seemed that the motor panned more slowly when using the RG-6 cable. I cannot qualify this with actual timing facts as I never actually sat down and measured it. It was just a perception on my part, therefore, I might have been a little bit swayed by my own impatience. I know you will forgive me for that, as everyone desires their motor to move like the Enterprise at Warp Speed!

For my adjectives such as "extreme" and "substantial", perhaps they were more influenced by my own elation at the time. Pleasantly impressed would have been more accurate.

For my closing, I must thank you for this conversation as I now have a more broadened and enlightened perspective towards signal amplifiers. :up

RADAR
 
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OK Dudes!!

Radar, replacing my present cable run with RG11 (the ribbon RG6 that came with the house along with BUD and a TurnerVision sub) is NOT an option.

Pengragon, I just did few experiments. Let me preface by saying that the only piece of test equipment I have is the signal meter on my CS4000.

1st: I eliminated the switch but used the extra 70' cable run to the BUD. No perceivable degradation of "Q".

2nd: I included the switch, but did not hook up the other lnb. Maybe a slight degradation of "Q" on the lower Cband freqs.

3rd: Same as #2, except that I did hook-up the KU band lnb to another port on the switch. The results were the same as #2 (as should be expected).

4th: Included the motor in the system, with cabling scheme identical to what is was when the 30" KU & the Cband BUD were only a few feet from each other. The result was that a HUGE loss in Q.

When the two systems were adjacent, both worked flawlessly.

My conclusion: The combination of the extra cable length & the motor "pass-thru" is killing the cband. Clearly, I need a way of having the KU LNB connected to port 2 (or whatever) on my 4x1 while the C lnb (with 70' of cable to this switch) is connected to port 3 WITHOUT using the "LNB" post on the motor.

So, I need one of you EE or E techs to suggest what I need to do.

BTW Radar, I deal with small electrical signals in one of my jobs. I do have a "non-active" bias. But in this case, the expense of going that route is prohibitive. (At least if my wife is to continue to take care of at least one other of my needs;))
 
Bassist,

Do I have this summarization correct?

You have a C-Band dish controlled via its own positioner and a Ku-Band dish controlled via some brand of an H-H motor.

The output of the C-Band LNBF ties into port 3 of the 4X1 DiSEqC switch and the output of the Ku-Band LNBF ties into port 2 of this switch.

The output of the switch is routed through your Ku-Band dish's H-H motor and then off to the house.

You originally had good signal from both Ku and C-band, but you relocated the C-Band dish to gain a better LOS and that forced you to use a longer cable between the C-Band dish and the DiSEqC switch (70 feet).

After doing this, you have lost a significant level of power from the C-Band signals and some TPs won't even lock.

If this is accurate, then the first thing I would test would be to run a cable directly from your Coolsat 4K to the C-Band dish and LNBF without routing it through your H-H motor and without routing it through the 4X1 DiSEqC switch. Go directly to the C-Band LNBF only. Is the situation the same?

If yes, then test the same procedure above, but take your Coolsat receiver right to the C-Band dish (within a few feet of it) and test again. Is the situation the same?

If yes, then your C-Band dish is not tuned (aligned) perfectly.

If no, and the signal is dramatically improved, then you are losing much of your signal over the cable distance.

If no and the signal is somewhat improved, but not as good as it used to be, then you may be losing signal over the cable AND your C-Band dish may not be perfectly algned - it could be a combination of both.

You might also try placing the DiSEqC 4X1 switch between the receiver and the two dishes, instead of between the H-H motor and the LNBFs on each dish. I know that this is NOT normally recommended for most situations, but I have used this routing with my H-H motor and several fixed point dishes and it worked just fine. The Coolsats usually seem to allow this. If it does not work for you, you could try an Ecoda Multi-switch in the place of the 4X1 DiSEqC switch.

My initial gut instinct, however, is that your C-Band dish isn't aligned as well as it was before you relocated it. I cannot see that the additional 70 feet of cable could have hampered the signal quite this much, but it may. Maybe here you could use the RG-11 cable or a signal amp? But, I would test it further with the above procedures first so that you can isolate what is truly causing the signal loss in the first place.

RADAR
 
I gotta reread your reply with more sleep!

Basically you have it summarized correctly except that I moved the KU dish. And I have no issues with the KU since I moved it.

The Cband remains in its original place. The switch in question is out by the new KU location, so I had to run a long cable from the new KU postion back to the BUD location.

The Cband dish is controlled with a stand-alone VBox 6, which is not being controlled via the Coolsat. I have the motor controls disabled on the STB for the BUD.

I have already tried the line straight through (IE eliminating the switch & SG motor) to the Coolsat experiment with the extra cable length both from near the BUD & while the cs was installed in its normal LR location. In both cases, the The STB and the Cband lnb peformed flawlessly. So the extra cabling doesn't seem to hurt anything until the signals need to be passed through motor's circuit.
 
Basically you have it summarized correctly except that I moved the KU dish. And I have no issues with the KU since I moved it.

I have already tried the line straight through (IE eliminating the switch & SG motor) to the Coolsat experiment with the extra cable length both from near the BUD & while the cs was installed in its normal LR location. In both cases, the The STB and the Cband lnb peformed flawlessly. So the extra cabling doesn't seem to hurt anything until the signals need to be passed through motor's circuit.

Ah! OK, I missed the point of which dish was moved. So the C-Band dish and the Ku-Band dish are both aligned well and it appears that the C-Band signal is only hindered when you have to route it through the H-H motor. I am not sure why this would be when it was OK prior. Unless it is merely a combination of effects - the extra distance coupled with the attenuation within the motor circuit.

I just copied one of my suggestions from my previous post to here as something for you to test out...

You might also try placing the DiSEqC 4X1 switch between the receiver and the two dishes, instead of between the H-H motor and the LNBFs on each dish. I know that this is NOT normally recommended for most situations, but I have used this routing with my H-H motor and several fixed point dishes and it worked just fine. The Coolsats usually seem to allow this. If it does not work for you, you could try an Ecoda Multi-switch in the place of the 4X1 DiSEqC switch.

Here, the signal from the C-Band dish does not route through the H-H motor, but only through the switch and the longer cable.

This is a little sketchy as, like I mentioned, it is not a normally recommended practice to place a DiSEqC switch in between the receiver and the motor. You might find that the Ku-Band H-H motor doesn't receive the DiSEqC 1.2 commands and it may not move when commanded or you may damage the switch by running the motor current through it. However, I personally have used this configuration for a few years without a problem. It is one of those notions where you don't know if it will work until you try it and it depends upon the receiver and the switch whether it is allowed or not.

RADAR
 
I guess it depends on one's perspective. I prefer to employ amplifiers as needed, partly because of maintenance and compatibility issues. By tuning the gain for each cable run so the levels are about the same, I find it much easier to troubleshoot any problems that might occur. I have also found this minimizes the compatibility issues between different tuners and switches that may perform differently at low signal levels. I want the performance of any tuner to be as good in the house as if it's patched directly to the LNB with a 1' cable. That's the main reason I use amps.

Pendragon > I have to say I understand that view on amps especially if cost is not an issue.
I agree your theory on AGC but I have to say I have seen so many receivers that have just a simple fed back loop, with no PID controllers in circuit.
You have clearly worked with quality equipment and I guess sat receivers of late must seem dissappointing. Regards P
 
Here's one method to avoid the KU motor using a Ecoda switch, It assumes your LNB is not universal.
 

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  • ecoda c and Ku.jpg
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Hey Pedro,

That is a simple solution. My situation would even be easier in this case because I don't have a KU/C lnb on the BUD so there won't have to be a diseqc switch any where.

The only thing is that in this original thread, the use of a 2.3 GHZ splitter is suggested. And of course my original question was/is, whether this is true &, if so, what type of splitter?
 
I found some splitter switches unreliable and do not actually do what they indicate but the Ecoda is 100%. The Ecoder switch will also take the motor current draw no problem.

If you can dispense with the diseqc great less signal loss.

Radar > There have been a number of threads of poblems using C & Ku through a motor with unsolved problems and I am still not convinced it is a motor problem. WRDavis had a complex system with strange occurences thought to be 22hz at first. it was resolved by a set up change but it would have been nice to have solved the problem /fault
 
Thanx Pedro & Radar!!

Pedro: I am assuming that it's the Ecoda 0-22 tone burst switch that I see for $10 from various vendors, correct?
The resolution in the thumbprint is not good enough to see the detail on the model of the switch.
 
Thanx Pedro & Radar!!

Pedro: I am assuming that it's the Ecoda 0-22 tone burst switch that I see for $10 from various vendors, correct?
The resolution in the thumbprint is not good enough to see the detail on the model of the switch.

that would be it.

crackt out,.
 
Be warned that there are CLONED Ecoda 22k switches that do not work 100%.
Buy from a vendor that stands behind their product!

inline amps also work. ive been playing with them today and i dont knnow why i havent used them before. dont bet on quality but signal strength is now pegged at 99 on all my drops. crazy. 60 to 99 signal is good for 3 bucks.

crackt out,.
 
How do you tell if it's a clone? Here's a thread that seems to explain... Ecoda 22Khz reliability

I bought the cheapest "Ecoda" 22 khz switch available on eBay. Not sure if it is a clone or not, but it works fine so far... YMMV

That thread came out after I got my switch...
 
I had on that had reversed ports and didn't pass lnb signal on one side.
I found the link (posted above) after I concluded that it wasn't working right.
Too late for me, but others should know.

BTW: the Encodas with misspellings are not necessarily Clones
 
I am not pulling your leg and it is NOT a typo. Good cable+several amplifiers can bring great improvement in extremely short cable runs. I have found with really long runs(200-300ft) that amplifiers cause more problems than much shorter runs. I have studied the law of physics and will always side with true science unless proven otherwise by extensive peer review.
 
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