I am planning my 10' BUD install on the side of my house. I only have 8' from my house to my property line. My true south sat (74W) is perpendicular to the property line and right above the center of the neighbor's house. Do you think I have enough room to install the BUD and have it track the arc (with the actuator)? I don't want the LNB to hang over the property line or the actuator to hit my house. All advice is appreciated. Thanks.
BUD Install Space Required (8' enough room?)
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Well, I did some measuring today.I have a 10ft. dish,my true south is 95west and my overall elevation is setting @ 43.00 deg. From the front of the pole to the rim of my dish = 5ft. 2in.(@ true south). My actuator is a 24inch,and @ my true south is sticks out about 2ft. 4inches. So if you do the math, you need to be at least 3ft. from the house so the actuator well move,but this will put the dish over the property line. So I'm sorry to say it won't work to track the whole arc.
Maybe someone else will give you better info.
Maybe someone else will give you better info.My advice? Look at putting the dish pole against your house and having the dish itself above your roof line.
If due south is directly toward your next door neighbor, putting the dish just above the roof line and against the side if your house should give you a better view of your arc.
It will, of course, make aiming and peaking more difficult, but it will save you space, and eliminate any problems with encroachment on yor neighbor's propery
If due south is directly toward your next door neighbor, putting the dish just above the roof line and against the side if your house should give you a better view of your arc.
It will, of course, make aiming and peaking more difficult, but it will save you space, and eliminate any problems with encroachment on yor neighbor's propery
I have an 8' with 24" actuator. my elevation to the south is 45º.
I use 7' from the tip of my sat to the end of my actuator.
A ten footer wight add a foot to that (allowing for clearances) and put you at your 8' limit.
I agree with Lone Cloud, put the pole against your roof and go high.
[The pic blow shows me pointing west, but the white line represents where the bottom of the dish would lie.]
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I use 7' from the tip of my sat to the end of my actuator.
A ten footer wight add a foot to that (allowing for clearances) and put you at your 8' limit.
I agree with Lone Cloud, put the pole against your roof and go high.
[The pic blow shows me pointing west, but the white line represents where the bottom of the dish would lie.]
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Thanks for your helpful responses. If I put the dish above my roof. The pole would be about 20 feet off the ground. How would a DIY guy like me design or plan an install like that? Would I still cement the pole in the ground? Or attach it to the side of the house some how? Or both?
Two stories? now that's a different story 
You would need to brace it to the wall / roof, but adjusting the LNB would be VERY difficult
Can you provide pictures?
You would need to brace it to the wall / roof, but adjusting the LNB would be VERY difficult
Can you provide pictures?
I have a brick ranch with a roof that peaks in the middle. To make sure the dish doesn't hit the roof while sweeping the arc - I think I would need to install it at the peak. I think the peak is like 18 feet from the ground. The other problem is my roof over hangs by atleast a foot. So the pole would be atleast a foot from my exterior wall. Maybe installing on the roof is my only option...
I made a mistake - I actually have 12' of space from my house to the property line. Does this allow me enough room to sweep the ARC? If there is enough room, is it wrong to have the BUD that close to the property line?
Actually I recommended an over the roof install because that is the only place on my entire property that I have a view of the arc. Luckily it's a great view there. I need to peak the dish right now, but I have gotten from 55.5 to 148 west.
I have a 16 inch overhang and concrete tile roof. The roof peak is about 20 feet above the ground, but I put my pole down a little - like at about 17 feet.
I pulled my two or three concrete tiles out and drilled a four inch hole in the supporting 3/4 inch wood with a drill and a hole saw. The 3 1/2 inch pole by about 30 feet I got from my local scrap yard, bringing in the polar mounting part of the bracket to make sure the fit was right. I got a thin wall pipe. I stuck the pipe through the hole and just sat it there before digging any footing. I used a level to plumb it up, both north south and east west. The larger hole in the overhang worked because my wall on the end was leaning in some and I could use the oversize hole to move the pole until plumb.
Then I dug my footing. I have a concrete sidewalk on the side of my house, so I only went down maybe 2 feet, and I put some "L" shaped rebars in the bottom of the pole. I plumbed the pole up where it sat as close as I could and filled the hole with ready mix concrete.
I went up to the roof line and used the level again in both directions. I held the pole plumb in the hole with wooden wedges. Some guys thing I'm crazy but I filled the pole with ready mix concrete ( I made a big concrete funnel with some sheet metal and brought it up a ladder, buckets half full). After filling, I used a rubber mallet to hit on the pole until I worked the air out of the pipe. It has never twisted, even in serious wind. After the concrete cured and I checked again for plumb, I used a circular saw with an inexpensive diamond blade (about ten bucks at Harbor Freight) to cut slots out of the concrete tiles. After getting the tiles back in, I used some more ready mix to fill in around the pole.
My roof does not have a steep pitch so I am able to get up there and change lnbs and make adjustments. That may not be your situation.
But I am happy with my install, my friends say it looks professional, and I get to keep all of my yard space for other things.
Every property is different, but I just want to tell you what I did as a homeowner, by myself, total cost a hundred bucks, pole included,
I have a 16 inch overhang and concrete tile roof. The roof peak is about 20 feet above the ground, but I put my pole down a little - like at about 17 feet.
I pulled my two or three concrete tiles out and drilled a four inch hole in the supporting 3/4 inch wood with a drill and a hole saw. The 3 1/2 inch pole by about 30 feet I got from my local scrap yard, bringing in the polar mounting part of the bracket to make sure the fit was right. I got a thin wall pipe. I stuck the pipe through the hole and just sat it there before digging any footing. I used a level to plumb it up, both north south and east west. The larger hole in the overhang worked because my wall on the end was leaning in some and I could use the oversize hole to move the pole until plumb.
Then I dug my footing. I have a concrete sidewalk on the side of my house, so I only went down maybe 2 feet, and I put some "L" shaped rebars in the bottom of the pole. I plumbed the pole up where it sat as close as I could and filled the hole with ready mix concrete.
I went up to the roof line and used the level again in both directions. I held the pole plumb in the hole with wooden wedges. Some guys thing I'm crazy but I filled the pole with ready mix concrete ( I made a big concrete funnel with some sheet metal and brought it up a ladder, buckets half full). After filling, I used a rubber mallet to hit on the pole until I worked the air out of the pipe. It has never twisted, even in serious wind. After the concrete cured and I checked again for plumb, I used a circular saw with an inexpensive diamond blade (about ten bucks at Harbor Freight) to cut slots out of the concrete tiles. After getting the tiles back in, I used some more ready mix to fill in around the pole.
My roof does not have a steep pitch so I am able to get up there and change lnbs and make adjustments. That may not be your situation.
But I am happy with my install, my friends say it looks professional, and I get to keep all of my yard space for other things.
Every property is different, but I just want to tell you what I did as a homeowner, by myself, total cost a hundred bucks, pole included,
Did you get 30 feet in one long piece or did you assemble it? How did you transport it? Is there a way to just attach it to the house rather than in the ground?
My situation was similar except that I needed to keep the dish & pole to the west between the house & garage with only 12 ft distance. This allowed the dish 55.5 W to 139 W. 2 obstructions are a power pole(145 W) & a palm tree(72 W).
I opted to make a removable 16 ft pole & add a turnbuckle bracing to the house anchored to the load bearing wall of the house at the doubled 2x4 plate.
Eight 3/8 x 4 1/2 lag bolts hold the angle to the house & eight 1/2 studs hold the pole to the base. The base is 6 inch pipe welded to 1/2 inch steel plate that I flame cut into an "X" so I could pour concrete easily. The base is 4 ft deep between a 500 lb rock & the house footing, filled with 17 90 lb sacks of concrete.
Literally between a rock & a hard place.
I had the pole with its mounting base upright at the ready to set in place with a cherry picker & the top chained to the wall brace immediately after pouring concrete, then attached the turnbuckles, plumbed the pole. Waited 10 days before mounting the 7.5 ft Perfect 10 dish.
Anything that long will flex in the wind so I thought to shorten the lever arm with a brace. Its worked out fine for me. Left enough room for a 10 dish.
I opted to make a removable 16 ft pole & add a turnbuckle bracing to the house anchored to the load bearing wall of the house at the doubled 2x4 plate.
Eight 3/8 x 4 1/2 lag bolts hold the angle to the house & eight 1/2 studs hold the pole to the base. The base is 6 inch pipe welded to 1/2 inch steel plate that I flame cut into an "X" so I could pour concrete easily. The base is 4 ft deep between a 500 lb rock & the house footing, filled with 17 90 lb sacks of concrete.
Literally between a rock & a hard place.
I had the pole with its mounting base upright at the ready to set in place with a cherry picker & the top chained to the wall brace immediately after pouring concrete, then attached the turnbuckles, plumbed the pole. Waited 10 days before mounting the 7.5 ft Perfect 10 dish.
Anything that long will flex in the wind so I thought to shorten the lever arm with a brace. Its worked out fine for me. Left enough room for a 10 dish.
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I got the 3o feet in one length. A friend had a pickup truck with a rack to transport it. I suppose you could attach it only to the house, but that would depend upon what your walls were constructed of and the condition. I have winds, so I figured if the dish caught the wind and twisted the pole, I didn't want any damage to my house.
I know not everyone can handle tools and construction materials. It's a big advantage in a lot of projects.
Good luck
Please tell me what you think about the mounts for sale on this page?
C-Band Mounts
I was thinking about the Universal Roof Mount. Or maybe the Saw Horse Peak Mount. The Universal would be better because I could hide it on the back side of my house. Could I possibly construct this mount myself for less money?
C-Band Mounts
I was thinking about the Universal Roof Mount. Or maybe the Saw Horse Peak Mount. The Universal would be better because I could hide it on the back side of my house. Could I possibly construct this mount myself for less money?
I don't know if either of those mounts are stout enough to carry a 10' BUD, even if they are you are going to need some serious attachment into your structural roof framing.
As far as constructing something like that yourself the answer is yes, you could do it yourself and save some money.....if you have the tools, talents and get a good deal on the materials.
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