I would still fine tune on 101 following the Slimline instructions. Depending on where you are in the US peaking on 99 can degrade 104 and vice versa. The instructions were written for a reason and peaking on the proper transponder on 101 will center everything the best it can.What satellite is ESPN HD located on? 99?(a)(s)? I am having issues with it breaking up all the time and I need to know which one to look for so I can fine tune it.
Where are those instructions?I would still fine tune on 101 following the Slimline instructions. Depending on where you are in the US peaking on 99 can degrade 104 and vice versa. The instructions were written for a reason and peaking on the proper transponder on 101 will center everything the best it can.
You used to find it on the DirecTV website and many of the dish vendors but I only see it on a few generic manual sites now. Here is one.Where are those instructions?
What satellite is ESPN HD located on? 99?(a)(s)? I am having issues with it breaking up all the time and I need to know which one to look for so I can fine tune it.
The mast being plumb has no bearing on the ability to properly peak the dish with the numbered knobs and procedure, it only helps initially find the 101 satellite after setting elevation and rotating the dish on the mast. I did most of the field testing on the alignment procedure, helped verify that was the best and only way to peak the new Ka/Ku dish on 5 orbital slots at that time and I wrote most of the instruction manual for the dish and got several patents on the alignment procedure and some mount tid bits needed for it all to work. I also coined the "dither procedure" phrase which is actually a wrong term to use but it got out and was too late to change the name.Note that if you don't heed the first paragraph on page 6, your effort will likely fail.
You could make it work with a non-plumb mast and possibly hours of tweaking, but why?
Also, if it is no longer plumb, you should rigorously investigate why, as you may have a bigger problem.
That doesn't make sense. Having the mast plumb ensures that when you set the skew and elevation properly, you've reduced your variables from three to two (or possibly one if you're using quality aiming data).The mast being plumb has no bearing on the ability to properly peak the dish with the numbered knobs and procedure, it only helps initially find the 101 satellite after setting elevation and rotating the dish on the mast.
You have to dial in all three parameters anyway. Even though I wrote most of the manual I've forgotten some of the terminology and the third axis is tilt per DTV but skew otherwise. Once you find the 101 satellite you peak it to make sure its not a side lobe, etc. Then start the dither process although I hate using that term these days. More than likely the tilt will be fine if set with a zip code but you can go to a 99 or 103 transponder and rotate the tilt slightly to see if there is any improvement and lock it down with the highest signal level there. The tilt was really important with the 110 and especially 119 orbital slots but not so much with just the current cluster of 99-101-103 slots only 2 degrees apart.That doesn't make sense. Having the mast plumb ensures that when you set the skew and elevation properly, you've reduced your variables from three to two (or possibly one if you're using quality aiming data).
If it isn't plumb, there's a likelihood that you'll have to dial in all three parameters to get the best results, and there's no vernier adjustment for skew.
As an installer, most certainly. As a subscriber trying to get their channels back, not so much. The assumption is that the installer set the elevation and skew correctly, and you only need to make sure the mast is still plumb and maybe do a little azimuth tweaking. If the dish has been whacked hard enough to change any of the settings from the professional installation, you're probably pissing into the wind trying to aim it.You have to dial in all three parameters anyway.
If a dish is bumped after the installer leaves then it should always go through the entire alignment procedure including AZ, EL and Tilt. I don't see any alternative because there is no way to know what needs adjusting including the mast being at a different angle than when the dish was aligned. The alignment procedure only takes a few minutes so why skimp and leave out any steps? Its very easy to see if the dish is aligned by connecting a satelltie meter and simply pulling back gently on the top, bottom, left and right corners of the dish. It should degrade slightly in each direction when pulled and if it improves at all then the alignment is probably not valid.As an installer, most certainly. As a subscriber trying to get their channels back, not so much. The assumption is that the installer set the elevation and skew correctly, and you only need to make sure the mast is still plumb and maybe do a little azimuth tweaking. If the dish has been whacked hard enough to change any of the settings from the professional installation, you're probably pissing into the wind trying to aim it.
If the mast isn't plumb, making it so will likely fix the problem until it goes out of plumb again. A full-on initial installation is rarely warranted.
You know better than that (unless you've forgotten your days in the van). If anything moves, there will be fresh galling of the paint, if not the metal.I don't see any alternative because there is no way to know what needs adjusting including the mast being at a different angle than when the dish was aligned.
Because that typically wouldn't be required. It is also made exceptionally difficult by the almost certain invalidity of an assumption that you've made:The alignment procedure only takes a few minutes so why skimp and leave out any steps?
You're making the unsupportable assumption that the troubled subscriber has ready access to an $800 meter (along with any necessary firmware updates it may require) or an old-school LNB.Its very easy to see if the dish is aligned by connecting a satelltie meter and simply pulling back gently on the top, bottom, left and right corners of the dish.
If a homeowner bumps his dish on the roof hard enough the mast or the mount to mast interface can move a little and you have no way of knowing what direction it needs to move back and there may not be any indication that it moved like chipped paint. In that case an AZ, EL and Tilt alignment is warranted and it really only takes a few minutes. In all the research I've done with hundreds or more alignments leading up to the dither procedure and writing the dish instructions I never used an AIM meter, those didn't exist until a few years later. I used Spectrum Analyzers, Birdog meters along with cheap satellite meters and even the setup screens on the IRDs themselves. You can literally do a perfect alignment using the setup screen on the DirecTV receiver if that's all you have.You know better than that (unless you've forgotten your days in the van). If anything moves, there will be fresh galling of the paint, if not the metal.
Because that typically wouldn't be required. It is also made exceptionally difficult by the almost certain invalidity of an assumption that you've made:
You're making the unsupportable assumption that the troubled subscriber has ready access to an $800 meter (along with any necessary firmware updates it may require) or an old-school LNB.
Absent a functioning meter, your way kinda falls apart. Those who aren't installers or technicians are left with the unique option of setting the elevation and skew using the respective scales and fiddling with the azimuth while an assistant calls out the readings.
Are you aware that you are arguing with the guy who wrote the book on how to align the Slimline dish?You know better than that (unless you've forgotten your days in the van). If anything moves, there will be fresh galling of the paint, if not the metal.
Because that typically wouldn't be required. It is also made exceptionally difficult by the almost certain invalidity of an assumption that you've made:
You're making the unsupportable assumption that the troubled subscriber has ready access to an $800 meter (along with any necessary firmware updates it may require) or an old-school LNB.
Absent a functioning meter, your way kinda falls apart. Those who aren't installers or technicians are left with the unique option of setting the elevation and skew using the respective scales and fiddling with the azimuth while an assistant calls out the readings.
Its ok, there will always be questions about the Slimline dish and its unusual alignment requirements. And it was not just me or a couple of installers that came up with this stuff, the DirecTV team had from my memory two PHDs in electrical engineering, a PHD in fluid mechanics, the company chief technology officer who gave us the impossible specs to meet, basically a brilliant team with several of us coming from the Hughes Aircraft aerospace side.Are you aware that you are arguing with the guy who wrote the book on how to align the Slimline dish?
I am. I've watched some of his videos.Are you aware that you are arguing with the guy who wrote the book on how to align the Slimline dish?
If only the word "warranted" meant that the truck roll would be performed under a warranty on the installation. In this case, it means "justified," and that's going to cost.In that case an AZ, EL and Tilt alignment is warranted and it really only takes a few minutes.