free 10ft mesh dish Los Angeles area
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Same model 10 ft dish as I just rescued 2 months ago....Orbitron "spinclination" model SX-10. I can tell by the polar mount in the listing pic. And the buttonhook.
I just don't have the storage space for it.
Too many projects & too little time.
I just don't have the storage space for it.
Too many projects & too little time.
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That's ok, I'm taking it home with me to Palmdale on Sunday after I take it down and load it up in my truck. I've been looking for a while and just on a fluke checked craigslist last night and it was still available. The listing is gone now, so I can't even check the pictures to see if its just locked in place or has an actuator on it. Did either of you happen to notice?
actuator
Yes as I recall it did have an actuator in place. The dish appeared to be in OK condition. You may have to reach over a railing on their balcony to get at the dish.
Sorry but I didn't save a pic from the listing.
Good luck with your take down & trip home.
Yes as I recall it did have an actuator in place. The dish appeared to be in OK condition. You may have to reach over a railing on their balcony to get at the dish.
Sorry but I didn't save a pic from the listing.
Good luck with your take down & trip home.
Yeah the guy told me I could reach it from the balcony with a 4 foot ladder. It's on a 15' mast that needs to be cut at the base as part of the deal. Lucky I have a sawzall that can take care of that. I don't need it to be that high at my house as I'll mount it in the yard at 8', can't put anymore on my house, there's 3 dishes there already and the city might start complaining. I have a OTA HD8200U Winegard mounted about 8' above the roof and am bucking them about the federal regulation (12' above roof) vs the local ordinance of 1" above the roofline, so I don't need to give them any more fuel if you know what I mean.
I've used a 4 1/2" angle grinder with cut-off discs to remove the poles & so far it works better for me than the sawzall. Usually requires 5-6 discs 1/8" thick to finish the job. Be sure to wear goggles and gloves in case a wheel explodes.
Is that 1" above the peak of the roof? Or the bottom of the dish 1" above the roof?
Sounds like you've got the same 'caliber' code enforcement officer we used to have here. This zealot insisted that code required that field service vehicles could not display any signs on the vehicle nor have ladders, etc. unless they were parked out of sight in the back yard, day or night. :rant:
What with all the service people & gardeners in this burg he sure didn't have his job long.
Is that 1" above the peak of the roof? Or the bottom of the dish 1" above the roof?
Sounds like you've got the same 'caliber' code enforcement officer we used to have here. This zealot insisted that code required that field service vehicles could not display any signs on the vehicle nor have ladders, etc. unless they were parked out of sight in the back yard, day or night. :rant:
What with all the service people & gardeners in this burg he sure didn't have his job long.
Well, i guess the code enforcement guys don't have enough to do with all the rental properties unmowed and dead lawns, broken cars in the driveways for years and all the foreclosure properties being used for crack houses. Like the cops doing stings for prostitution when the gangs are going around all over. The ordinance here is 1" at the peak of the roof. My OTA is about 3' below that right now and I just put a preamp on it today that boosted me from 3 channels to 23. I will put a motor on it next so i can aim it better, but I have to keep everything kind of low because of the wind we get here every afternoon until around 8 PM. It blows 20-40 mph everyday.
Picked up the dish
I picked up the free dish today in Long Beach. What a job, my back and shoulders hurt tonight. the dish was easy enough to get to with a small step ladder, but being so close to the beach everything was rusted. Had to break each bolt holding the dish to the positioner and the positioner to the pole. It took about an hour just to get everything loose then had to wiggle the dish itself around for about 20 minutes just to get it off. We cut the cable and used it to lower it off the balcony onto my truck below. I left it in one piece as I figured I'd have to go through the same thing to take it apart. I'll post some pictures after I download them off my phone. So there was a GI Videocipher 2 2650 receiver, remote and the positioner control unit.
We cut the pole off at the bottom, 4", 1/4" thick steel, took 20 minutes with a sawzall. then had to unbolt it from the supports on the side of the house, that was heavier than the dish and I had to leave it there until next weekend and cut it in half as I only need half the length, but I'll keep both pieces, may come in handy and I can always weld it back together with a inner sleeve.
I need to take almost everything apart and remove the rust and either replace some parts or prime and repaint all the steel pieces. The positioner motor arm looks like it shoud be replace even though it still works. Leaking oil out of the gear case and rusted everywhere. Also need a feedhorn cover, I really don't want to leave it exposed. Has C/KU both. That's about all I can think of for now, but the project has just begun.
I picked up the free dish today in Long Beach. What a job, my back and shoulders hurt tonight. the dish was easy enough to get to with a small step ladder, but being so close to the beach everything was rusted. Had to break each bolt holding the dish to the positioner and the positioner to the pole. It took about an hour just to get everything loose then had to wiggle the dish itself around for about 20 minutes just to get it off. We cut the cable and used it to lower it off the balcony onto my truck below. I left it in one piece as I figured I'd have to go through the same thing to take it apart. I'll post some pictures after I download them off my phone. So there was a GI Videocipher 2 2650 receiver, remote and the positioner control unit.
We cut the pole off at the bottom, 4", 1/4" thick steel, took 20 minutes with a sawzall. then had to unbolt it from the supports on the side of the house, that was heavier than the dish and I had to leave it there until next weekend and cut it in half as I only need half the length, but I'll keep both pieces, may come in handy and I can always weld it back together with a inner sleeve.
I need to take almost everything apart and remove the rust and either replace some parts or prime and repaint all the steel pieces. The positioner motor arm looks like it shoud be replace even though it still works. Leaking oil out of the gear case and rusted everywhere. Also need a feedhorn cover, I really don't want to leave it exposed. Has C/KU both. That's about all I can think of for now, but the project has just begun.
food for thought
Sounds like a fine project.
We'll look for the next round of pictures!
Sorry I didn't keep closer tabs on this thread.. I could have come over and been your camera man! -
As for the sawzall, vs the cut-off wheel on a hand grinder, I've used both.
And I strongly vote for the latter.
We didn't break any blades nor wheels, taking down a 10' tall BUD pole.
The cut-off wheel was better on rusty bolts that had to go, too.
Having both at hand, let us use the best tool for the job, so whenever one didn't fit or was too heavy, the other was there for the save!
Found some rust-friendly paints and primers.
You use a wire wheel or wire cup to get off the loose stuff, then just paint right over what's left!
I selected Hammerite rust-control paint.
I was told by a buddy's Dad, who's been in the paint 'n hardware business for 40+ years, that Hammerite beats RustOleum paints.
And for a rust preventative primer where I would be using other top-coats, I wanted the best.
The same gentleman recommended Rust Destroyer, which I located at Home Depot.
In the end, I did settle for some of the RustOleum hammered final top-coats over the rust resistant primer.
AND, out where you live, I suspect sand-blasting is a bigger worry than rust! -
Sounds like a fine project.
We'll look for the next round of pictures!
Sorry I didn't keep closer tabs on this thread.. I could have come over and been your camera man! -
As for the sawzall, vs the cut-off wheel on a hand grinder, I've used both.
And I strongly vote for the latter.
We didn't break any blades nor wheels, taking down a 10' tall BUD pole.
The cut-off wheel was better on rusty bolts that had to go, too.
Having both at hand, let us use the best tool for the job, so whenever one didn't fit or was too heavy, the other was there for the save!
Found some rust-friendly paints and primers.
You use a wire wheel or wire cup to get off the loose stuff, then just paint right over what's left!
I selected Hammerite rust-control paint.
I was told by a buddy's Dad, who's been in the paint 'n hardware business for 40+ years, that Hammerite beats RustOleum paints.
And for a rust preventative primer where I would be using other top-coats, I wanted the best.
The same gentleman recommended Rust Destroyer, which I located at Home Depot.
In the end, I did settle for some of the RustOleum hammered final top-coats over the rust resistant primer.
AND, out where you live, I suspect sand-blasting is a bigger worry than rust! -
Cleaning and painting
Actually the primary thing I have to think about when mounting this is the wind, not much in the way of dirt blowing because of where I'm at on the southwestern side of Palmdale. But the wind always blows from west to east in the afternoon to evening. So I can't really mount it very high. Thanks for the advice for the paint. I'm going to take the steel pieces to work with me and run them through the derust tank too after taking all the old paint off.
I have a spot picked out behind my 33" KU on the patio roof in a corner of the walls where it's tied to the house. 2"X8" slat top, not covered in that area. That should give me pretty good support and have some good sized timber to support the weight. I'll put a 1" plywood sheet in that area then a second piece over that for the mount. I actually found a mounting fixture on ebay for $50 that accomadates a 3-1/2" pipe. I can bolt that right to the plywood and add additional strapping across the 2"X8". It should stand up to the stress with some guy wire on the top side for extra stability. I'm only putting it up high enough to clear the bottom of the dish for movement on the arc.
This location gives me LOS for 67W to 139W, east of that is my neighbors tree, it may be low enough to go further, not sure yet. But, west of that is my elm tree that definately blocks anything after.
Anyone have any recommendations on a new LNB assembly, not sure if I want to keep the Chapparal that's on it now. It has the servo with C/KU, but no cover right now.
Actually the primary thing I have to think about when mounting this is the wind, not much in the way of dirt blowing because of where I'm at on the southwestern side of Palmdale. But the wind always blows from west to east in the afternoon to evening. So I can't really mount it very high. Thanks for the advice for the paint. I'm going to take the steel pieces to work with me and run them through the derust tank too after taking all the old paint off.
I have a spot picked out behind my 33" KU on the patio roof in a corner of the walls where it's tied to the house. 2"X8" slat top, not covered in that area. That should give me pretty good support and have some good sized timber to support the weight. I'll put a 1" plywood sheet in that area then a second piece over that for the mount. I actually found a mounting fixture on ebay for $50 that accomadates a 3-1/2" pipe. I can bolt that right to the plywood and add additional strapping across the 2"X8". It should stand up to the stress with some guy wire on the top side for extra stability. I'm only putting it up high enough to clear the bottom of the dish for movement on the arc.
This location gives me LOS for 67W to 139W, east of that is my neighbors tree, it may be low enough to go further, not sure yet. But, west of that is my elm tree that definately blocks anything after.
Anyone have any recommendations on a new LNB assembly, not sure if I want to keep the Chapparal that's on it now. It has the servo with C/KU, but no cover right now.
Thanks 172, I got the bottom support off the dish today, only 2 bolts stayed intact due to the rust. Took the buttonhook off and found the intermediate plate was complete rusted away, just pieces there that fell apart when i took it off. Some of the aluminum ribs are rotted where they were in contact with the steel, damn, just like a boat in the ocean. Galvanic reaction can be terrible when you're close to the beach. Looks like I'll have to replace the intermediate plate for sure and maybe a few of the ribs. Depends on how much of it has rotted away. The top and bottom plates are possibly still good enough to use, I'll be able to tell more after I get the rust and paint off them tomorrow. Too dark to work any more tonight. I'll try to hook up with you tomorrow afternoon for the covers anway and maybe get the pole from you. Thanks for your help.
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