Free scrap ?? Not to me

[Corrado]

You never know what you'll find along the road. The other night I spotted a small cardboard sign that said "free scrap". The actuator motor caught my eye. As I was slowed down to see what it was I was shocked to see a rusty Kaul-Tronics polar mount for a Bud.

Excuse the dark photo, I left it in the truck to take to work to get it apart for cleaning for future use. This thing is ridiculously heavy.

 

[1ADAM12]

Nice find, great that you saved it from the scrap man.

I saw posted a method of rust removal that was easy.

submerge the parts in a baking soda and water solution attach one electrode of a welder to the steel and submerge a SS plate and attach the other electrode. Should only draw an amp or two.

Never tried it but it leaves a bright steel ready to prime and paint.

 

[Cadsulfide]

Nice find, and as we all know, parts is parts. It could me modded to drive a 4' DTN dish for a killer Ku rig.

 

[Anole]

I'd use a wire wheel or cup to whisk away what rust that's not tied down.
Then, you give a couple of coats of rust-bonding primer (or there's paint you can use directly).
Be sure to follow the directions with enough coats and time between coats.

http://www.satelliteguys.us/c-band-...66575-amci-perf-ajak-motor-2.html#post1764717

 

[amc1]

never know what you would find.i got a c-band dish some time ago its white and all fiberglass works well.

 

[FED-UP-INSTALLER]

soak in vinager or mixed up oxacilic acid (deck cleaner) DANGEROUS!

 

[Inno]

Electrolysis.........that will remove all of the rust safely and in a less damaging way than a wire wheel or dangerous chemicals. I have not tried it yet but I plan to set it up sometime over the winter.
Electrolytic Rust Removal aka Magic

 

[Anole]

I read about the electrolysis method several years ago.
The fellows were removing rust from old gas pumps and similar collectibles.
I came away with a negative impression, and that it was quite dangerous.
However, if members here have any war stories, I'd be anxious to hear. - :up

The wire wheel method need only remove loose rust.
There is no need to try to get it all off.
The primer forms a chemical bond with the remaining bits, providing a strong under-layer for paint.

primer - Rust Destroyer - over which you might use any top coat.
paint - Hammerite - primer and top coat in one.

I don't have 20 years history with these paints and primers, but I did buy into their hype.
We'll see if they outlive me. -

 

[14karat]

Hey Anole - I think I posted before about the stuff, but I've used a DuPont product called Extend that is similar to the Rust Destroyer you posted about.
I can only say from my personal experience using it on several things (including the back fender wells of a '63 Ford Galaxie) - the crap works. I didn't believe it until I used it.
That being said, DuPont is actually somewhat of a competitor of the company I work for, so I gain nothing by posting this...

 

[Inno]

I read about the electrolysis method several years ago.
The fellows were removing rust from old gas pumps and similar collectibles.
I came away with a negative impression, and that it was quite dangerous.
However, if members here have any war stories, I'd be anxious to hear. - :up

The wire wheel method need only remove loose rust.
There is no need to try to get it all off.
The primer forms a chemical bond with the remaining bits, providing a strong under-layer for paint.

primer - Rust Destroyer - over which you might use any top coat.
paint - Hammerite - primer and top coat in one.

I don't have 20 years history with these paints and primers, but I did buy into their hype.
We'll see if they outlive me. -

Maybe it was from here that I initially heard about it. The info from the gas pump restoration site is no longer there but I have found other references to the process. EDIT: it is there and it seems to be updated. Thanks for the link, I've been looking for it!
I was under the impression that it was relatively safe if you made sure to follow a few simple guidelines. One of which being ventilation as one of the byproducts is hydrogen, but only in small amounts. Another one being the choice of metal to use as a sacrificial anode, stainless steel would last the longest but it gave off some sort of toxic gas. Other than those two things the solution is merely water with washing soda (or baking soda) added so it is safe. It is also usable indefinitely and only limited by the crud which will eventually form at the bottom of your tank as rust deposits fall from your workpiece.
I plan on trying it soon so I will report my findings when I do.

 

[truckracer]

that's awesome...i will remember this method. Hey we could rust proof a car by running it in the neighbor's pool, 500 lbs of baking soda and two large lincoln arc welders!! LOL

 

[Anole]

Yes, thanks for the info on the Extend.
I got a can of it earlier this year, as part of my testing.
After some more serious study, I felt the other products might have a bit more success due to the hard crust Extend creates.
(I feared it might fracture under stress, and let in moisture.)

Regarding the gas pump forum, my old link to their story was useless, too.
So, I searched their site, and that's how I came up with a new link to it.

As I recall from first reading, an additional problem is the possibility of getting chromium or some other metal into the bath.
I believe you could wind up with a dangerous poison contaminate in the soup, under some circumstances.
Be sure to read their entire thread and the other info Inno provided, so you know as much as possible and remain safe. - :up

TruckRacer - no, all the electrolysis trick does is remove the rust.
You'd still need a coating to keep it from re-rusting.