HELP!! I finally get my FTA dish aimed up to the heavens, get hundreds of channels fine, after I clean up the wiring on the outside, retested and I’m good with portable TV. I decided to route the coax into the house from the central distribution box for the internal cable. When I route the Satellite cable into the house splitter, I get no signal on the Vision Sat box, but If bypass the splitter all together, and then try the Vision Sat I get channels, I assume my house splitter isn't going to do the job for the Sat signal, which splitter do I need to use for my Sat. I’m currently using a three way splitter, don't remember what brand or what the frequency range of the splitter was, but it was good enough when I used to have Comcast cable and Dish Net some years ago, I assume my KU band Sat is operating at a higher frequency now?? Thanks
help with setup
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If your house splitter was passing Dish netwrok signals, Ku signals should pass through.
You should start a new Topic_
For a number of reasons, you can't just split a Sat signal.
What is your goal, multiple receivers in multiple rooms?
For a number of reasons, you can't just split a Sat signal.
What is your goal, multiple receivers in multiple rooms?
We have to assume that your house splitter is a "leftover" from a cable system. That is a different animal than satellite equipment. Generally, when we want to distribute a satellite signal around , we use multiswitches, feeding different receivers. The house splitter mention might be useable if it were being fed from the rf output of the visionsat, but I'd bet you wouldn't think much of the picture quality.
House splitter
Yea what I was trying to do was just have the Sat coax utilize the house cable already in place into three rooms for future expansion of additional Sat receivers. But when I utilize the splitter in place I get signal loss on the Vision Sat, if I bypass the splitter all together and just connect direct to one of the rooms through a single connection, it’s a good connection. So something on that splitter is not letting the Sat signal get through. I'll have to pull it and check it out. But it was in place when I used to have Dish net and I had Sat boxes in three bedrooms. I'll take a picture of the splitter thats in place, and maybe you guys can tell me if I need a diffrent splitter.
Yea what I was trying to do was just have the Sat coax utilize the house cable already in place into three rooms for future expansion of additional Sat receivers. But when I utilize the splitter in place I get signal loss on the Vision Sat, if I bypass the splitter all together and just connect direct to one of the rooms through a single connection, it’s a good connection. So something on that splitter is not letting the Sat signal get through. I'll have to pull it and check it out. But it was in place when I used to have Dish net and I had Sat boxes in three bedrooms. I'll take a picture of the splitter thats in place, and maybe you guys can tell me if I need a diffrent splitter.
Usually, you can't just split a satellite signal *. Multiple receivers must be able to power the LNBF to either 13v for vertical polarity or 18v for horizontal polarity, and a splitter will not permit this to work properly. Additionally, most CATV splitters are rated up to 900 mhz, while satellite signals are typically up to 1400 mhz, and with a bandstacked LNB, up to 2100 mhz. The splitter will not work.
What you need to do for multiple room distribution is to use a dual-output LNBF and a DirecTV-style 2 x 4 or 3 x 4 multiswitch. This switches the polarity-controlling voltage, assuring that you get the proper polarity on all connected receivers. It will also pass the higher satellite frequencies.
* - You can split a satellite signal if you are using a bandstacked LNB and a 2 ghz (2100 mhz) rated splitter with a single-port power pass, since the bandstacked LNB sends down all transponders on both polarities simultaneously.
What you need to do for multiple room distribution is to use a dual-output LNBF and a DirecTV-style 2 x 4 or 3 x 4 multiswitch. This switches the polarity-controlling voltage, assuring that you get the proper polarity on all connected receivers. It will also pass the higher satellite frequencies.
* - You can split a satellite signal if you are using a bandstacked LNB and a 2 ghz (2100 mhz) rated splitter with a single-port power pass, since the bandstacked LNB sends down all transponders on both polarities simultaneously.
New Power Pass Splitter
I stopped at Home Depot on the way home, picked up the Ideal 3way with power pass on one of the outs, this worked. So I think eventually if I get another Sat Box I will need power pass on all three outs. One thing I failed to mention in my previous post, before the split is a Diplex for OTA antenna, I noticed a drop in a few channels when I don't use the power pass port on the OTA box as well, seems that the OTA suffers a little. In the pics, is the old splitter with no power pass through, VisionSat box gets no signal on this splitter.
I stopped at Home Depot on the way home, picked up the Ideal 3way with power pass on one of the outs, this worked. So I think eventually if I get another Sat Box I will need power pass on all three outs. One thing I failed to mention in my previous post, before the split is a Diplex for OTA antenna, I noticed a drop in a few channels when I don't use the power pass port on the OTA box as well, seems that the OTA suffers a little. In the pics, is the old splitter with no power pass through, VisionSat box gets no signal on this splitter.
Marco - that splitter you pictured is not suitable for your application.
Please re-read what Tron posted above.
Please re-read what Tron posted above.
Please re-read what Tron posted above.
Yes, I pasted that three times... that's how important it is. -
If you want to understand how to use switches to connect your LNBs, dishes, and multiple receivers, please see the Switches Simplified FAQ.
Please re-read what Tron posted above.
Please re-read what Tron posted above.
Please re-read what Tron posted above.
Yes, I pasted that three times... that's how important it is. -
If you want to understand how to use switches to connect your LNBs, dishes, and multiple receivers, please see the Switches Simplified FAQ.
The old SVI is a CATV splitter with a maximum frequency pass of 1000 mhz. The reason the new Ideal splitter worked to a degree is that it passes up to 2.3 ghz. What a splitter won't do is properly switch polarities for you. You will be stuck on whatever polarity the 'master' receiver is switched to (the master receiver being the one hooked up to the power pass port). If the master is turned off, no other receiver will be able to power your LNBF (or therefore switch polarities). DON'T use a splitter with all-port power pass, as your receivers can be damaged if more than one is trying to power the LNBF or switch polarities at the same time.
Why not? I have signals from my Traxas, Quali TV and Motorola split into 5 TVs ranging from the front room to 3 bedrooms and the garage using coax, Wal Mart splitters and A-B switches. I have sharp video and crystal clear audio. The signal in the garage, about a 150 feet away is just as good as the signal in the front room 2 feet away from the receivers.
No, the point was, you don't want to use any sort of splitters on the LNB signal.
There are rare times when that is possible, but for the average Ku band application, and specifically when trying to feed one LNB to multiple rooms for use by multiple FTA receivers, that is just a no-go.
The OP is using a GeoSatPro LNB (according to his signature), so any discussion of bandstacked LNBs does not apply to him.
... nor to most users, as that is an advanced approach most would not employ.
There are rare times when that is possible, but for the average Ku band application, and specifically when trying to feed one LNB to multiple rooms for use by multiple FTA receivers, that is just a no-go.
The OP is using a GeoSatPro LNB (according to his signature), so any discussion of bandstacked LNBs does not apply to him.
... nor to most users, as that is an advanced approach most would not employ.
I see
Ahhhhh, so this may answer my question on another post I had, when I do a blind search scan on 123W Galaxy 10, I'm seeing allot of Channels, but not channels in different frequency’s that supposedly I should see according to the List, or no??
So I need to scrub the splitter before I get anymore SatBoxes, and do the Dual-output LNBF switch.. I’ll have to look around, I think I may have the old Dishnet switch around. Hope I didn’t throw it out.
Ahhhhh, so this may answer my question on another post I had, when I do a blind search scan on 123W Galaxy 10, I'm seeing allot of Channels, but not channels in different frequency’s that supposedly I should see according to the List, or no??
So I need to scrub the splitter before I get anymore SatBoxes, and do the Dual-output LNBF switch.. I’ll have to look around, I think I may have the old Dishnet switch around. Hope I didn’t throw it out.
I got cha, all of those signals are split coming out of the receivers.
But I do have the LNBs going into high freq splitters before they get to the receivers and everything comes in great. Now I am confused!!!!!
Diamond Jim -
You've been here since 2004 and have 2500 posts.
I think that qualifies you as an Advanced User !
We don't confuse the newbies with TV-style, -nor- high freq, power passing splitters.
We slap their hands when they reach for those.!. -
Besides, I'll wager you're an old-timer with Analog C-band, and other hard-to-break habits -
. . . and probably use three pieces of hardware to tune in your favorite shows.
One for the BUD motor, one for the polarity, and another which is the actual receiver. -
edit: and the real reason, is because very few C-band LNB lashups are voltage controlled like most newer Ku-band hardware.
You've been here since 2004 and have 2500 posts.
I think that qualifies you as an Advanced User !
We don't confuse the newbies with TV-style, -nor- high freq, power passing splitters.
We slap their hands when they reach for those.!. -
Besides, I'll wager you're an old-timer with Analog C-band, and other hard-to-break habits -
. . . and probably use three pieces of hardware to tune in your favorite shows.
One for the BUD motor, one for the polarity, and another which is the actual receiver. -
edit: and the real reason, is because very few C-band LNB lashups are voltage controlled like most newer Ku-band hardware.
You might think that, but I don't have any techincal background and I don't have any idea about a majority of the things that are discussed here. I have millions of questions, but I will never ask them in an open froum for that reason.
As Anole suggested, Jim can split the output from his C-Band LNB because he is using an old-school polarotor on the feedhorn to control polarity Sometimes the tried and true methods have their advantages!
Sometimes the tried and true methods have their advantages!- Status
