How is satellite placed on roof...?
- Thread starter abooch
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 21
- Views 4K
According to Dish Network, the roof is the last place a dish is ever supposed to be mounted. They recommend a pole or wall mount.
this of course will vary greatly from one installer/dealer to another.
this of course will vary greatly from one installer/dealer to another.
if roof is a must for the installer due to line of sight then we usually use facia, shingle is a last resort
There are basically two methods for mounting on a roof. One requires drilling six lag screws into the roof through the shingles. The other is called a non-pen mount and uses a large base loaded with blocks to hold it. These can only be used on a farly flat area though.
As I understand your dads wishes, what is his reason for not wanting it on the roof?
If it's because he is worried about it leaking, that should not be a concern. Proper mounting requires a sealent to be used. There are also specialty mounts that can be bought that aslo protect against this, they are found at most major home improvemnt stores and cost less than $50.00.
If it's because of looks, well there is not much you can do about that.
I have found that the roof is the most reliable place to put the dish. When mounted properly they don't move out of alignment. You don't have to worry about somebody messing with the dish, or accidently running into it with the lawnmower. Wall mounts stick out like a sore thumb, and with the use of vinyl you can't mount to that anyway.
Check this vinyl mount out. My retailer gave me the mount for a 1000+ before he ever came out for the install. I figured out exactly where it would go on the wall. Peeled up the vinyl and marked where the studs were. Under the bowed out air space of the vinyl installed 1/2 inch of OSD (I think it is called) where the mount lag bolts would be on the studs. The mount foot base center bolts are spot on center of the studs and so are the two support struts. It is mounted flush and no bowing in of the vinyl.
Attachments
We can't mount to vinyl at all. The problem is that the dish locks the sidding in place. When it gets hot it can't move like it is supposed to. That is when it pops loose from the other rows. It will be 10 feet away from the dish and the vinyl is falling of the house.
Wow, I guess that was a bad idea mounting on vinyl. Guess I better think of somewhere else to put it. Thanks for the heads up.
yeah, thats why they leave the siding overlapping a few inches... as the siding gets hot or cold, it expands or shrinks and needs to move a little bit
Not to mention that a roof mount should not be done over a living area, but instead should be mounted over the eaves so that if there is a leak, it doesn't leak into the house.
I don't know how much the siding wants to move, but here's an idea:
Remove the dish including the 'foot'. In your siding, you have (4) holes that are the size of your lag bolts right now. Drill out the holes in the siding only so that they're bigger. The extra room might allow the siding to shift now.
Now, if the various components you're using 'clamp' things together completely, this won't help.
Remove the dish including the 'foot'. In your siding, you have (4) holes that are the size of your lag bolts right now. Drill out the holes in the siding only so that they're bigger. The extra room might allow the siding to shift now.
Now, if the various components you're using 'clamp' things together completely, this won't help.
The footing has 6 holes. Four corners and the two in the middle that are on the stud. I think I am not going to do anything and see what happens and then deal with it. Maybe it will be ok. What do you think?
You MAY be OK with your installation! From your photo, the 6 mounting foot bolts are in the middle of a fairly short piece (6 to 8 ft.) of what appears to be "double-four" inch dutch lap siding. This will allow that piece of siding to expand or contract horizontally to the left and the right of where the bolts penetrate the siding.
Some general rules for vinyl siding are:
- Vinyl siding is "hung" on a wall - nail heads do not clamp siding to surface
- A long (12 foot) length of siding will expand/contract more than a short (4 foot) piece
- If the center of a piece of siding is "clamped" to wall it normally isn't a problem - it can still expand left and right
- If however if a piece of siding is "clamped" on the left or right end, ALL of the expansion will be to the end opposite of where it is clamped.
I would't change anything right now! I would keep an eye on it through very cold and very hot/sunny weather and see if there's a problem.
Good luck - nice installation and even nicer home!
Thanks Packer Bill. I will keep an eye on it. I need to tackle the grounding problem first anyway. I have an expert coming next week that is one of those technicians that fix install problems. He is going to do a super good peak of both dishes and check out what we can do on the grounding issues. Thanks again.
http://www.wowvision.tv/
http://www.wowvision.tv/
Not certain as to why ya'll concerned with the grounding so much. If you had a bunch of 20' antennas on top of your house for your hamshack that might be a different story. The grounding to code consists of the 17AWG messenger uncut to be bonded to the dish back to the groundblock that is connected to say the electric meter/#6 ground wire with a #10 AWG.
Since you have two dishes that appear to be within 25' of each other you then bond them both together with #10 solid copper.
If your home was recently built the narrow backs would have installed a 2nd ground rod 72"'s from the main one using #6 if the resistance in the earth in your area calls for a 2nd/3rd/4th, etc.
If you got the money, appears that way then do as much as you want but code is nothing more then I already stated.
No matter what you do it's not going to do crap during a lightning strike, it'll be fried like a piece of chicken plugged into 3 phase.
Since you have two dishes that appear to be within 25' of each other you then bond them both together with #10 solid copper.
If your home was recently built the narrow backs would have installed a 2nd ground rod 72"'s from the main one using #6 if the resistance in the earth in your area calls for a 2nd/3rd/4th, etc.
If you got the money, appears that way then do as much as you want but code is nothing more then I already stated.
No matter what you do it's not going to do crap during a lightning strike, it'll be fried like a piece of chicken plugged into 3 phase.
Obviously, he doesn't care. Its a QC failure, too. Even if it was wood siding, it is done wrong. Not supposed to overlap to sections like that. What really gets me is the morons who install on brick or block walls with the lag shields in the mortar joints. Or using the blue brick screws (tapcons?). DTV rep told us those fail twice. Once for mounting and once for non approved materials.
Also, you should review your warranty info on the siding. A lot of them will void it if the holes are not sealed and I do not know what mounting a dish on it will mean.
