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Time for an update. I played with it for a week, tweaked the elevation, tightened everything up, set the limits on the actuator. I have a booming C band signal from 37W to 137W. The old unimesh would go no further east than 43W. quality points are 5 to 10 points higher across the arc.
On the Ku side Im getting higher quality except for on a few sats that I cant pick up at all. It seems that this dish is more sensitive to obstacles. I have a few tall trees in my line of sight from 103w to 125w, so no pbs. 103w is crazy. I can get vertical Ku at 70+ quality all day long, but horizontal is non existent. The old Unimesh would still see these Ku sats even though the center of the dish was lower (paraclipse mount places the dish a foot higher).
Wow!! Since there are 2 screws (bolts) for elevation, setting up your elevation on this mount must have been slightly challenging as both sides need to be balanced for a good dish performance. Picture #3 here of my 12ft Paraclipse shows a different type of elevation bolt and style.View attachment 92968View attachment 92969The actuator is an old ProBrand Super Jack (ballscrew) with a 24 inch stroke. I could probably squeeze a few more degrees out of it, but I don't want to overextend it. My dish is one of the last models produced so it has the Ku mesh and the Polar T mount.
I played with it a bit more yesterday and found that by adding a 1/16" shim (declination is adjusted with shims), I can now pick up the missing Ku birds. That shim changes my declination by about .25 degrees.
View attachment 92807View attachment 92807I picked up a
12ft paraclipse classic this past spring (local dish) and it just sat behind the garage until this past weekend. On a whim I made a few phone calls to line up some muscle (a lot of it), and swapped it out on Saturday. When I brought the dish home I brought it in one piece so that setup was easy. Paraclipse has a unique design to mount the feedhorn and scaler. They have a mounting plate with three nylon jackscrews to fasten the scaler. The mounting bolts for the scaler go right through the jackscrews. With this setup I was able to set the F/D ratio and square up the scaler, and then set focal distance with the jackscrews. My true south is 83w so I used RTN to set azimuth (yes Ku). It took me longer to drag a TV and receiver out to the dish then it took me to aim it.