Installing my first motorized C Band Satellite Dish (w/pictures)

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And its even prettier at night :yessign

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Btw, today, sky is blue, and the builder guy already putting the steel rods and all that stuff @ the roof to make the 35 x 35 inches concrete pad. He had to dig into the prevoius concrete to put the steel rods.

I'll update this post later on

RamboHack
Monterrey, Mexico

Wow, great picture. This is a picture of Harper's Ferry, WV not too far from where I live.

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This is Spruce Mountain. Been up there many times in my life. Some of the best turkey hunting anywhere, and the deer are monsters. I wouldn't live anywhere else. I've had people tell me West Virginia doesn't have mountains. Trust me, if you wander around in this area of the state, you'll sleep very well at night.

upload_2017-10-25_16-20-56.jpeg
 
Wow, great picture. This is a picture of Harper's Ferry, WV not too far from where I live.

View attachment 128960

:eeek It's beautiful West Virgina! pretty nice pic :thumbup Someday i will travel to your state, I've only been in big cities like NY, LA, SF, Chicago, Miami, Orlando, Houston etc.- but never in this kind of places where you are surrounded by nature.
 
NEW UPDATE:

Concrete pad done!

We finished making the concrete pad at the roof!

36 inches by 36 inches and 8 inches tall.

Inside the concrete pad, 3/8 steel rods to make the pad stronger.

We also put the expansion anchor bolts inside the concrete.

I think we did a pretty good job :happydance

lttKiM4.jpg

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Now, i have to wait like 2 or 3 days to let the concrete dries.

In the meantime, i have to spray water to the concrete every 12 hours ( thats what the construction guy told me) at least for 2 days.

The concrete pad is 100% leveled.

So, only thing left for me, is wait 3 days... :(

I'll update this post if anything new happens.

RamboHack
Monterrey, Mexico
 
Great project! Looking good! Excellent that you have such a large work area and will have no worries of wearing out the asphalt roofing! :)

I would suggest putting a nut or two and a lock washer on the threads (between the cement and the mast legs) to allow leveling in it is ever needed.

Looking forward to future posts as you progress on the install! Good Luck!
 
I would suggest putting a nut or two and a lock washer on the threads (between the cement and the mast legs) to allow leveling in it is ever needed.
Thank you Titanium! :hatsoff I will apply your suggestion.

Btw, i bought from you a brand new ASC1 and a C1-PLL. And maybe in the future i'll need your advise on the ASC1 configuration, i already read the manual, i hope everything works as smooth as it should be. I like the ASC1, seems and feels very sturdy! :bounce

RamboHack
Monterrey, Mexico
 
:eeek It's beautiful West Virgina! pretty nice pic :thumbup Someday i will travel to your state, I've only been in big cities like NY, LA, SF, Chicago, Miami, Orlando, Houston etc.- but never in this kind of places where you are surrounded by nature.

It's great here. Lots of wildlife and most of the people are very accommodating. One word of caution. If you're not from here, avoid Logan, Mingo and McDowell counties. Very clannish there. This where the coal wars went on and the feud between the Hatfield and McCoy's. My wife is related to the Hatfield's through the Vance family. I married into the family and I am cautious when I visit there.

Have to be careful what you say. Under no circumstances go there and visit the local bars. There's a lot of beautiful, isolated country there if you're brave enough to visit it. :) For a little entertainment, go to YouTube and look up Jesco White, the dancing outlaw. Jesco is indicative of some of the characters who live there. It's still pretty wild there, but less so since Jesco died, but he has a lot of relatives. :wtf If you come here, look me up. I'll be glad to show you the sights.
 
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Hey guys! i went to the roof this morning to spray some water to the concrete, and just for curiosity i put the pole mast in the anchor bolts, and took readings using my new Wixey 300, and this is what i've got:

In the right side of the pole i got 90.3:

0PLNV1N.jpg



At the left side of the pole i have 90.0 :
6iIe5my.jpg


At concrete floor i got 0.2 degress:

nwF9rBq.jpg


And this is the pole inside the anchor bolts @ concrete pad:
lCYdRv9.jpg



I read at the manual, that if my reading degrees are between +/- 0.5 degrees, that mean is good...am i right? or it should be EXACTLY 90.0 on all pole sides? even at the floor?

I didnt thight the bolts yet to the pole, because the concrete is still fresh, but i dont know when i thighten the bolts, maybe my readings change, i hope it stays close to 90.0 degress, but i will find out later.

I will update this post with more pictures as i progress with my installation

Thank you guys for all your responses and advices :hatsoff

RamboHack
Monterrey, Mexico
 
Don't leave the pole on the studs while the cement is setting up. Personally, I would let it harden a minimum of 5 days. Even a bit longer wouldn't hurt. The pole can be shimmed if needed to level, however leveling the top is most important. Do it East-West, and North-South. Make sure it's as perfect as possible, .5 degree is too much and can induce error you have to compensate for in other areas.
 
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Hey guys! i went to the roof this morning to spray some water to the concrete, and just for curiosity i put the pole mast in the anchor bolts, and took readings using my new Wixey 300, and this is what i've got:

In the right side of the pole i got 90.3:

0PLNV1N.jpg



At the left side of the pole i have 90.0 :
6iIe5my.jpg


At concrete floor i got 0.2 degress:

nwF9rBq.jpg


And this is the pole inside the anchor bolts @ concrete pad:
lCYdRv9.jpg



I read at the manual, that if my reading degrees are between +/- 0.5 degrees, that mean is good...am i right? or it should be EXACTLY 90.0 on all pole sides? even at the floor?

I didnt thight the bolts yet to the pole, because the concrete is still fresh, but i dont know when i thighten the bolts, maybe my readings change, i hope it stays close to 90.0 degress, but i will find out later.

I will update this post with more pictures as i progress with my installation

Thank you guys for all your responses and advices :hatsoff

RamboHack
Monterrey, Mexico

Primestar is right. I'd let it dry several days before setting the pole on it. I'd put a nut and flat washer on the studs before installing the pole. That way you can have nuts on the top and bottom to adjust the pole to level. On top of the mounting flange, use a nut and lock washer to keep the nuts tight. I'd put anti-seize on the stud so it won't rust in place down the road. I'd also put anti-seize on the bolts that tighten the dish to the pole. You should be able to get it perfect using the nuts as levelers. Nice job! :)
 
I'd put anti-seize on the stud so it won't rust in place down the road. I'd also put anti-seize on the bolts that tighten the dish to the pole. You should be able to get it perfect using the nuts as levelers. Nice job! :)

Thank you Primestar31 and WvMan i'll do your recomendation.

Wvman, i was watching at amazon some anti-seize stuff, but i couldnt decide what to buy, the ALUMINUM antiseize? or the NICKEL antiseize.

Which one is the one i should buy? i dont know the differerence between this 2 antisizes

Should i buy a Threadlocker also?

Thanks

RamboHack
Monterrey, Mexico
 
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Thank you Primestar31 and WvMan i'll do your recomendation.

Wvman, i was watching at amazon some anti-seize stuff, but i couldnt decide what to buy, the ALUMINUM antiseize? or the NICKEL antiseize.

Which one is the one i should buy? i dont know the differerence between this 2 antisizes

Should i buy a Threadlocker also?

Thanks

RamboHack
Monterrey, Mexico

You don't need the threadlocker stuff. There's no real constant vibration that can cause the nuts to unscrew themselves.
 
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Jason posted a picture of the NAPA brand, which works well. Better to take these precautions now than regret it later. You're doing just fine. :biggrin Like Primestar, I don't see any need for a thread locker.
 
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Thank you guys, i already bought from Amazon this anti-seize:

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It has exactly the same components (or chemicals) as the Napa one (Permatex), aluminum base.

I wanted the Nickel antiseize, but i read that nickel is some kind of dangerous (cancer or something like that)... better be safe, so i chose the aluminum one.

Thanks for this advice guys!

RamboHack
Monterrey, Mexico
 
I forgot...

How do i apply this antiseize? AFTER i tighten all the bolts? Or just before i put the bolt in the "hole"... its dangeorus to the skin right? so i have to be very carefull
 
I forgot...
How do i apply this antiseize? AFTER i tighten all the bolts? Or just before i put the bolt in the "hole"... its dangeorus to the skin right? so i have to be very carefull

Just brush a little bit onto the threads of the bolt or nut before you put them together. There should be a brush built into the cap of the antiseize bottle. You don't need globs of the stuff on the threads, just a light coating over the threads will be fine.

I'm not aware of anti-seize being especially dangerous to skin. If one has reactions to aluminum (i.e., as some do with antiperspirants or deodorants) they might take extra precautions.

Anti-seize can be very messy though, similar to paint. Have some paper towels handy to help keep your hands and tools clean. Nitrile or latex gloves can help from getting it on your hands. A little bit on your fingers and you can unknowingly spread it onto everything else you touch like tools, clothes, door knobs, light switches...
 
Antisieze isn't that mad, mostly a grease with some metal filler to prevent galling. Just don't eat it and you'll be OK. The different metal fillers are there for compatability with different bolting materials. Paint a stripe on the threaded rod, run the first nut and washer down, place mount, then add a dab or antisieze it needed followed by the last washer and nut.

The stuff is mostly just messy and spreads around as you handle things. Just like a grease.
 
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