Installing OTA antenna

So drill holes and run 2 bolts at 90 degree angles to each other. What size bolts ? Because 1" of pipe sticking up doesn't give me much room to have 2 bolts clear each other.

Thanks.

1 FOOT not 1 inch. 1 inch is the " (double-prime) symbol. But it can be any length of that or longer if you'd like.
 
But it can be any length of that or longer if you'd like.
With the understanding that the bending stress where the pipe/tube goes into the concrete goes up linearly with increases in overall length if the mast isn't guyed.

1" standard pipe (schedule 40, 1.315" OD, .133" wall) in a cantilevered configuration (fixed at one end) yields at around 21lbs of load at 16'.
 
If I secure the antenna pole to my fascia board with a 12" standoff bracket, how do I find the 2X wood framing members behind the fascia board ? Will a stud finder work thru the aluminum facing which is over my 3/4" thick fascia board ?

Thanks.
 
Will a stud finder work thru the aluminum facing which is over my 3/4" thick fascia board ?

It should. I have used aluminum in magnetic fields on many occasions in my youth, and it didn't affect the field.
 
My antenna pole in the ground will be about 3' from the exterior wall that I will be bringing the coaxial cable through.

How do you guys suggest I run the coax cable ? Buried inside a 1/2" or 3/4" electrical PVC conduit ? I'm not sure what fittings to use once I get to the concrete block wall I will be going thru with the cable. Do I need an elbow when I come up from underground ?My entrance hole will be 2 or 3 inches above grade, just below my siding. I was thinking of using one of those small plastic bushings that the cable goes thru and inserts in the hole.

Thanks.
 
How ever you route the coax, make sure you don't bend it too sharply along the way. Depending on the cable, the "minimum bend radius" may be as small as 1" or as large as 3". Going smaller than the cable's MBR will cause a drop in signal due to deformation of the outer jacket making the jacket no longer "coaxial" with the center conductor.
 
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Thanks. What if I use a 90 degree PVC elbow ? That would be used at the bottom of the pole, where the coaxial cable goes underground into the conduit. Then I can use a straight PVC run right to the side of the house, then thru the concrete block wall.
 
Thanks. What if I use a 90 degree PVC elbow?
That depends on whether your PVC is for plumbing or for conduit. A plumbing 90 is probably too sharp unless you use very large pipe. The fitting you need is a "long sweep elbow" that you find amongst the conduit fittings. With the long sweep elbow, the fitting is much longer and the bends happen much more gradually. Unfortunately, they don't make for tidy mounts when going into the house.
 
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I used 1.25 inch pipe on or 1.50 inch conduit for my wire going thru cement block wall so I could put more wires. There is a little L shaped box that has a fitting on back to go thru wall with another fitting on the bottom that you connect to fitting come up from ground. Has a cover with gasket on front. I got mine at home depot. Also You can bend the conduit with a burnz amatic if you want to shorten up the elbow to come out of ground. That is how the electrician bent my pipe to get around obstacles.
 
Thanks guys. I'm thinking of using electrical PVC conduit, probably 1/2". I wouldn't use the elbow at the house, just at the base of the pole, before the conduit goes underground.

Also, when mounting the standoff bracket to the fascia board, I will only be able to screw into 1 structural member. What type of anchor should I use for the other screw ? Toggle bolt ?
 
Is there any reason I shouldn't put my ground rod in the post hole in the concrete ? It would save me a lot of pounding.
 
Is there any reason I shouldn't put my ground rod in the post hole in the concrete ? It would save me a lot of pounding.

I found this via Google:
Cement is a hydraulic binder made mostly by calcium silicates ( and ), tricalcium aluminates, tetracalcium alluminoferrites and gypsum (). From a materials scientist and engineer point of view both aggregates and cement are considered electrical insulators. They have no free carrying electrons.
 
Concrete is not a good conductor of electricity. Not a good idea. Now if that ground rod is a few feet deeper than the posthole that might work.
 
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Thin wire rope is probably the easiest to work with. You can use coated or uncoated.

There are any number of turnbuckles and other gizmos that will allow you to make fine adjustments.

This kit includes many of the basic building blocks (not an endorsement, just an example):

Amazon product ASIN B011AEQVNY
 
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Thanks. I should be able to find those parts at Home Depot or Menards. My telescopic pole has round metal rings with 3 holes in them. I just need to find wire that will fit the holes. And what is typically used at ground level to connect the wire to ?
 
And what is typically used at ground level to connect the wire to ?
If you read further down the Amazon page, there's a section titled "frequently bought together". Among the items are some auger-type anchors.

How heavy duty this setup needs to be and how strong the anchors depends on the tower height and the antenna wind load. Taller towers (>20') usually get multiple guy sets at regular elevations.
 
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