Ku on a 8-footer

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pjcl

SatelliteGuys Pro
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Nov 9, 2008
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I have successfully set up an 8-footer, and works great. Except the ku side - can't get it to work! Any tips?
 
The aim is more critical on the Ku band than C-band, so you may simply be just slightly off. Elevation, Declination, Aziimuth. I'd go to your true south bird ( if it has Ku) and gently tweak the dish with a TV and receiver handy, to see if you can find a little "Q" . That will get you on the right road. :)
 
While fine tuning the dish may be an issue, I'm going to ask some questions that may be considered elementary but are sometimes overlooked.

Do you use a single coax or duel coax to the LNBF? Either way the Diseq or 22Hz will have to be set to switch power to the Ku side of that LNBF in the setup menu. Single coax will require the 22Hz setting for Ku. If this is all correct, then you might want to also check voltage output at the Ku side to make sure that it's getting power when Ku is selected.
 
While fine tuning the dish may be an issue, I'm going to ask some questions that may be considered elementary but are sometimes overlooked.

Do you use a single coax or duel coax to the LNBF? Either way the Diseq or 22Hz will have to be set to switch power to the Ku side of that LNBF in the setup menu. Single coax will require the 22Hz setting for Ku. If this is all correct, then you might want to also check voltage output at the Ku side to make sure that it's getting power when Ku is selected.

I have a feeling you are on to something here. Right now, I'm using a single coax to the C-band antenna lnbf. However, I'm working with an Ecoda switch so I can get a 90cm ku on the same box as well. I have the ku coax going through the 22KHz side, and the C-band coax using the 0KHz side of the switch. Then, on the Coolsat setup, I have the 22KHz set to "on" for the ku sats, and to "off" for the C-band sats. It switches from one to the other great, just with some SG9120 motor issues that predated this configuration.
 
I would go one step further. Go straight to Ku side without any switches until you can lock in
 
I have a feeling you are on to something here. Right now, I'm using a single coax to the C-band antenna lnbf. However, I'm working with an Ecoda switch so I can get a 90cm ku on the same box as well. I have the ku coax going through the 22KHz side, and the C-band coax using the 0KHz side of the switch. Then, on the Coolsat setup, I have the 22KHz set to "on" for the ku sats, and to "off" for the C-band sats. It switches from one to the other great, just with some SG9120 motor issues that predated this configuration.

Using your Coolsat 8K try exactly what you have done, but also set your Ku to Port 2 in the receiver menu. I have a DMX741 & it is pretty sensitive. It the dish is off slightly it will drastically loose signal.

Once on my DMX741U the Ku had me stumped...I found that the little jumper cable was bad. This simple little cable cost me a tremendous headache. You may want to check that as well.
 
I second what Auric said. My DMX741 (bought two weeks ago) came with a bad jumper as well. It tightened down, but did not make a very good connection internally apparently. Replaced it and instantly got a much better signal strength on KU. Also I found with my 7' that once I had peaked the dish on C, I had to adjust the focal point again for KU. In my case there seems to be a sweet spot where both have maximum signal, but it is very narrow. Half an inch is the difference between no signal and 70% for KU on my southernmost sat here.
 
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