More reliable switching??

[bassist]

Hey guys,

Using a CS4000, I'm having problems getting a disceq 4x1 to toggle b/t our (now) motorized KU dish (SG2100) and our stationary 7.5' cband dish. I have 3 4x1 switches and none of them do the job. I do have a long cable run. I already replaced all the connections with compression fittings.

Any suggestions??? Thanks in advance.

 

[USDownlink]

The motor must be the first thing the receiver sees. This is a stab in the dark, though, as you didn't specify your wiring. Confirm for us that this is indeed your configuration.

 

[Anole]

As USDownlink says, the preferred location of the motor, is to be located closest to the receiver (electrically).
Here's a wiring picture as an example.

On another tangent, did you turn off your Coolsat with the rear panel switch, or unplug it before changing cables or diseqc switches?
Those switches seem a bit delicate.

 

[bassist]

Thanks Anole & Downlnk,

I did not fry the switches. And the link you supplied, Anole, indicates that I have the switch in the wrong place.

I have stb >switch>#1 > motor > KU lnb
>#2> Cband lnb


It looks like I need stb>motor>switch>#1>KU lnb
>#2>Cband LNB.

 

[brentb636]

You might also consider an Ecoda 22khz switch for that job, if the new wiring scheme doesn't help.

 

[Anole]

Yes, very good point Brent636 brought up there.
We have users and even vendors who swear by the Ecoda 22khz switch.

You might drop it in place where you have your diseqc, and be done.
That could be especially attractive if rewiring the cables is a major pain.
Apparently, the switch can power a little motor okay.
See the above link for discussion. SatAV is one of our Gold Sponsors, so I'll take his word.!.

If you need more LNB expansion, you could put the motor on one side of the 22khz switch, and a diseqc on the other.
Here's a drawing from our Switch FAQ which might give you some ideas.
Just remember - the 22khz flows through the Ecoda.

 

[1captain]

You might also consider an Ecoda 22khz switch for that job, if the new wiring scheme doesn't help.

The Ecoda will work.

Have a friend that has a Cool-5000 an had the same problem, would not want to switch once the C-band was plugged into the mix, tried a different receiver Pan-2500 an switch fine. then started trying different switches an could not get it to switch, came back a few days latter with a DMS 22khz an SW-21 they both work like a champ.
then started thinking why? an started to change out his lnb, he had a Gardner 20* lnb, put a Norsat 8115 on an it switch fine with his old switch, put the Gardner back on an would lock up the switch. the only thing that I could think of was that lnb was putting some noise into his system that the Cool did not like but left him with the DMS 22khz. an just talk to him Sunday an still doing fine a year latter.
he like the price of the DMS switch better than the price of the Norsat.

 

[bassist]

I may have to try a 22khz switch.

The wiring diagram supplied by Anole didn't work at all even if the stb is 3 ft from the motor.

Having my receiver that close, I rewired again back to stb>switch> motor & cband lnb, and the switch works & the motor moves to the correct spots. Bad thing about the CS4K is that it only supplies a max of 400 mA of current to the lnb/switch system. So my cable length is an issue.

The 4000 does not have a setting available for an SW21 . And I have a good sw21.

 

[Anole]

I'm not sure about that, but...

Bad thing about the CS4K is that it only supplies a max of 400 mA of current to the lnb/switch system.

If that is so, please read the thread I supplied above.
Or at least the two posts by SatAV
post 1
post 2
As a result of his comments, I bought a bunch of the regulators.
PM me your address, and I'll send you one.

 

[USDownlink]

One of the important parts to keep in mind in the threads Anole points out is that the Ecoda 22kHz powers both sides simultaneously. If you know you're running light on current capability, using the Ecoda may be a non-starter. There seemed to me a slight leap between only being able to supply 400mA and deciding cable length the issue. How long is the cable, and what type is it?

 

[Anole]

... There seemed to me a slight leap between only being able to supply 400mA and deciding cable length the issue.
How long is the cable, and what type is it?

Yes, the one does not imply the other, but I let that one pass, in hopes the OP would move on or supply more info.

Replacing the regulator might be beneficial, or might not.
Surely, the receiver should run the motor as-is.

 

[bassist]

It does run the motor well from the house as long there's no switch in the path. And it runs the motor well with a very short cable if the switch is included between the motor & the CS4k.

And the switch operates pretty well if there is no motor.

The "400mA max" is the what is printed by the LNB input.

The cable run is more than 150 ft. And I am using one side of a 'legacy' cband cable that was run to the house about 17 yrs ago.

 

[Anole]

three points:

Well, in the above threads, I did argue against drawing excessive current from a receiver.
However in this case, that does not appear to be a concern, assuming the regulator is up to the task (and only one motor).
- I offered a replacement regulator

- any other 22khz switch is not a replacement for the ecoda
None are rated to run a motor, yet apparently the ecoda does.
A regular 22khz switch won't pass diseqc commands, either.

- as for using a DishNetwork SW22, it's possible those are supported in hackware for the Coolsat 4000
I don't know, but it is quite likely, as I've seen such support in other receivers.
Since none of the existing hackware is now viable, I see no concern trying it.

Hope ya find a fix. Keep us in the loop. - :up