Motor arrived today - now a few questions...

[Lak7]

hmm, I wonder where I am?

Those feeds were on AMC15 @ 105, but use the "Macy's" TP - it's always on.

 

[Auric]

Those feeds were on AMC15 @ 105, but use the "Macy's" TP - it's always on.

Thats an interesting channel. When I found that sat that was the only thing on. I do check that satellite for feeds regularly though. Usually not much on there, buy Macy's always comes in strong

 

[turbosat]

Right on the money Lak, Vyvx has the diamondbacks the last 3 nights in Dodger-land.
My blond scanning found a football game on Amc15 but it was 4.2.2 or something , na for me lol.
*Couldn't resist, I laughed on that one too. My apoligies to Dee !!!!

 

[jwf593]

photos of the Fortec

hi guys!

thanks for all the help! thanks to AcWxRadar, I am using his post as the "howto" to get this thing set up.

as of today, still problems. i am pointed at 105W trying to get a good strong signal from Macy's TV. i have been getting 90 Strength, but can't seem to get any Quality. i'm going to wait until the sun goes down (the direct sunlight makes reading my little TV difficult) and then try some more.

wish me luck - hope you find the photos interesting,

jeff

 

[Lak7]

Don't even mess around having the switch, connect directly to the "L" port on the LNB.

 

[jwf593]

direct from the LNB

what you see in the photograph, that's combining the Circular and Linear and then going into the house. inside i have the dish hooked up to a COOLSAT 5000 that I just got off eBay last week (without a manual or anything).

what i've been doing all day is running another coax off the other Linear directly to an old Samsung i have. the Samsung has a real simple 'manual' entry and a meter that's easy to read. i have the Samsung and a little TV outside on the deck about 3 feet from the dish - so i can jiggle the dish and watch the meter reading. i won't worry about the Coolsat until i get a good strong Quality reading on the Samsung.

this system has worked real well in the past, but i'm having a hard time tonight. i can get a good 95% strength, but nothing i do gets the Quality up above 10-12%. i can get Macy's TV signal to lock at all.

i'm not sure what i'm doing wrong - this has worked well in the past finding all the programming on 97W. i'm going to look at the TP list for 105W and see what another frequency gets me.

thanks,

jeff

 

[Lak7]

What are the LNB settings in the Samsung?

 

[AcWxRadar]

Inside i have the dish hooked up to a COOLSAT 5000 that I just got off eBay last week (without a manual or anything).

what i've been doing all day is running another coax off the other Linear directly to an old Samsung i have. the Samsung has a real simple 'manual' entry and a meter that's easy to read. i have the Samsung and a little TV outside on the deck about 3 feet from the dish - so i can jiggle the dish and watch the meter reading. i won't worry about the Coolsat until i get a good strong Quality reading on the Samsung.

thanks,

jeff

Jeff,

I have always had exceptional luck using the Coolsat 5000 receiver for my alignment process. You just cannot beat it. It responds really quickly to signals found and it is easy to program. Not to mention that it controls a motor with exceptional accuracy in USALS mode. You can even go into the motor control menu and alter the satellite position (or your longitude coordinate) by a few tenths of a degree at a time to see which direction you might need to move to improve the signal. There is also a feature in the OPTIONS menu called BEEP ON SCAN THE SIGNAL. If you turn this to ON, and the volume on your portable TV up, you can hear a tone that increases (in pitch) when you get closer to the target signal. This is very handy! You don't have to keep your eyes on the TV screen at all times, you just listen for the tone difference and watch what you are doing.

Your Samsung might be equally exceptional, but I have not owned one personally so I have no first hand knowledge of that receiver.

You might give this a shot with the Coolsat. Even though you received no manual, I don't think you will require one. The Coolsat is so straightforward and simple that you should have no problems figuring it out. Unless the previous owner has it all jacked up with naughty firmware. In that case, all you need to do is perform a factory reset. The firmware will still be in there, but all the satellites will be restored.

Always use the MANUAL SCAN mode or menu to align a dish with the Coolsat. In this menu, you can select the specific TP to search for. In the DISH SETTING menu, the receiver only looks at the first TP in the list. That TP may not be active.

RADAR

P.S. If you need the PC programs to help support your Coolsat 5000 (loader and original factory file/s etc, just send me a PM and I can send you anything that you might need). There isn't much required. The loader program, factory firmware and Channel Master (nice for editing your channel list).

 

[Auric]

hi guys!

thanks for all the help! thanks to AcWxRadar, I am using his post as the "howto" to get this thing set up.

as of today, still problems. i am pointed at 105W trying to get a good strong signal from Macy's TV. i have been getting 90 Strength, but can't seem to get any Quality. i'm going to wait until the sun goes down (the direct sunlight makes reading my little TV difficult) and then try some more.

wish me luck - hope you find the photos interesting,

jeff

I have a set up just like that, well mine in a 36", but regardless, you need to find the sats before hooking up the switch. Motors tend to do funny things when switches are involved. You should at least get 70 - 80 Q on AMC 15 11856 V 3548 I'll check out my TP list for AMC 15 when I get home.

 

[jwf593]

switch vs splitter?

ok, on the advice above, I am going to remove the 4 into 1 DiSEqC switch (which I don't need and was just in case I ever decided to hook up the little 'pizza' dish that the previous owner left on the house).

Now, is there any reason I should disconnect the 2 into 1 splitter that I am using to combine the Linear and Circular feeds from the LNB? Now, remember, I am not using that line to find and align my dish - I am using another coax straight from the other Linear feed to another receiver that I have 'local' outside next to the dish. My plan is, once I have best possible signal Quality, then to use the other line that runs into the house for my normal viewing.

fyi, a lot of fooling around last evening left me still in the dark -- i can get a really good Strength (95%), but almost no Quality. So, nothing I can use.

Another question - when I tell the dish (using the Coolsat) to 'Go To Reference' - the Dish motor ends up at "0". When I tell the Coolsat to take me to 105W, my 'true south' satellite - to the naked eye the dish looks like it's still at "0". That about correct?

The Coolsat will move the dish - when I tell it to go to 97W, the dish moves off to the East a bit and (again to the naked eye) right to where 97W should be. Not exactly though - as I get no signal from the satellite.

Well, I'm about to go try and hook things up again and see what I can find. I might drag the Coolsat outside this time instead of the Samsung. It might be fun to actually SEE the dish move, I've never done that.

thanks for all the help!

Jeff

 

[AcWxRadar]

ok, on the advice above, I am going to remove the 4 into 1 DiSEqC switch (which I don't need and was just in case I ever decided to hook up the little 'pizza' dish that the previous owner left on the house).

Now, is there any reason I should disconnect the 2 into 1 splitter that I am using to combine the Linear and Circular feeds from the LNB? Now, remember, I am not using that line to find and align my dish - I am using another coax straight from the other Linear feed to another receiver that I have 'local' outside next to the dish. My plan is, once I have best possible signal Quality, then to use the other line that runs into the house for my normal viewing.

fyi, a lot of fooling around last evening left me still in the dark -- i can get a really good Strength (95%), but almost no Quality. So, nothing I can use.

Another question - when I tell the dish (using the Coolsat) to 'Go To Reference' - the Dish motor ends up at "0". When I tell the Coolsat to take me to 105W, my 'true south' satellite - to the naked eye the dish looks like it's still at "0". That about correct?

The Coolsat will move the dish - when I tell it to go to 97W, the dish moves off to the East a bit and (again to the naked eye) right to where 97W should be. Not exactly though - as I get no signal from the satellite.

Well, I'm about to go try and hook things up again and see what I can find. I might drag the Coolsat outside this time instead of the Samsung. It might be fun to actually SEE the dish move, I've never done that.

thanks for all the help!

Jeff

Jeff,

Make absolutely certain that what you termed the "2 into 1 splitter" is NOT a splitter but a switch. Splitters and combiners do not function with FTA equipment. The only equipment that can utilize such devices are the DN DishProPlus stuff with dual tuners and the like. So be absolutely certain that this device you have is a switch, like an SW21 or 2X1 DiSEqC or 22KHz switch. You can use the 4X1 DiSEqC switch for this purpose, you can just leave two of the ports blank.

When you tell the motor to "GO TO REFERENCE" and it goes to ero degrees on the motor, that is good. When you tell it to go to the satellite position of 105.0W, and it doesn't seem to move, that is very good if that is indeed your true south satellite. It theoretically shouldn't move at all (well, maybe just a tiny tick). Depends on if you entered your longitude as 105.0 degrees or something like 104.9 or 105.1.

I would believe that your motor is moving properly (according to USALS).

RADAR

 

[jwf593]

mechanical issues...

hi AcWxRadar and all!

well, i think i am narrowing down my possible problems. i am going to look into the 'splitter' issue - anyone out there combining their Circular and Linear feeds?

but, i think my real problem is with my poor workmanship and careless.... well, you get the idea. i originally mounted my motor at the mid-point of the mast, as the instructions said. but, after a couple of evenings of back-and-forth it has slid down until the lower U-bolt was resting against the angled portion of the mast.

i think this brought the motor just a little out of true 'plumb' and this has been accounting for some of my problems. to compound this, i've managed to "strip" one of the U-bolts holding the motor to the mast so i'm not getting a tight grip on the mast.

the problem i had repeatedly last evening was, after finding a good strong signal from either 105W or 97W, i would motor away to another satellite and after failing to find any good signal at that location... return back to my original signal to find it too weak to lock on to.

i think the problem must be that my mount isn't absolutely fixed, so when the motor moves the dish, the momentum moves the mount. just a tiny bit - but enough.

well, i've been onto our sponsor's site and ordered a set of replacement U-bolts and i guess i'll work on other issues (like if and how to combine the L and C from the LNB) until they arrive. (unless the local Loews has something that will work)

thanks for reading, looking forward to any input

jeff

 

[Lak7]

i am going to look into the 'splitter' issue - anyone out there combining their Circular and Linear feeds?

You can not use a "Splitter", you must use a "Switch" - either DiSEqC or 22KHz.
Until you are running properly, I would only connect directly to the LNB.

 

[jwf593]

splitter vs switch

hi Lak7,

well, my terminology must be wrong - but the device looks correct. i had just done a blind scan looking for AMC15 @ 105W and came up with a whole long list of channels that i identified as Dish Network programming from 110W. so, my Circular feed seems to work (although i couldn't actually view any of the programming - it had great Strength and Quality).

i used that information (that i was pointing at 110W) and bumped the dish back to the east a smidgen, and i've once again got a nice strong signal and beautiful picture for Macy's TV.

i guess my next move is to get out to the dish with a Sharpie and mark it's Azimuth since i seem to have my 'true south' satellite locked in. next, if i can just get a good, strong lock between the motor and the mast, maybe the worst is behind me.

i see that with the Coolsat i recently bought there is also a 4x1 switch still in the plastic - i suppose i should replace my current hardware with this and see how it performs.

thanks again,

jeff

 

[Lak7]

i guess my next move is to get out to the dish with a Sharpie and mark it's Azimuth since i seem to have my 'true south' satellite locked in. next, if i can just get a good, strong lock between the motor and the mast, maybe the worst is behind me.

The Motor should be at Zero when locked on your Tues South Sat, no "bumping" to Lock it. Once you have that, set the receiver to use USALS for motor control and Tweak from there.

 

[Tron]

To save yourself the aggravation of the motor slipping down the pole, and to aid in azimuth adjustments, attach a gate hinge to the pole just under the motor bracket. The bracket will rest on this hinge. A muffler clamp will also work...

 

[AcWxRadar]

hi AcWxRadar and all!

anyone out there combining their Circular and Linear feeds?

I originally mounted my motor at the mid-point of the mast, as the instructions said. but, after a couple of evenings of back-and-forth it has slid down until the lower U-bolt was resting against the angled portion of the mast.

I think this brought the motor just a little out of true 'plumb' and this has been accounting for some of my problems. to compound this, i've managed to "strip" one of the U-bolts holding the motor to the mast so i'm not getting a tight grip on the mast.

thanks for reading, looking forward to any input

jeff

To save yourself the aggravation of the motor slipping down the pole, and to aid in azimuth adjustments, attach a gate hinge to the pole just under the motor bracket. The bracket will rest on this hinge. A muffler clamp will also work...

Hey Jeff,

Good Saturday morning to you!

Yes, I combine my circular and linear signals using a switch. I use a Chieta DiSEqC 4x1 switch. There isn't much to watch on the circular side of Ku, except NASA on 119.0 W as it is unencrypted.

The dish network test card channels are really handy to assist in aligning if you need them. These are the "Congratulations, You are Aimed At ...." channels. These usually have assigned SID's of 9902, 9903, 9904 etc.

However, if you are uncertain of your switch condition or type, I would recommend NOT using any switch at this time. It can lead to confusion during the alignment process since you can forget to set up the switch parameters for each satellite in the menus or may set them incorrectly by oversight.

I would connect your cable directly from the receiver to the motor and then from the motor to the linear LNBF and concentrate solely on the linear signals.

As for the mast or motor support pole, definitely make sure that it is plumb in all directions and very sturdy. This is extremely important! And when I say sturdy, I mean an elephant should be able to scratch his butt on it without moving it!

I know of many people who have set their first motorized system up and had the mast be "not perfectly plumb". They state that "it is off a little, but not too much, it should be alright". NO, it is not alright! The mast is the whole foundation of your motorized system. All the other angles depend upon the mast being plumb so that they will be correct. The greatest reason for not being able to track the satellite arc is the plumb of the mast.

Always use a bubble level. It will be more accurate than anything else. Also, the longer it is, the more accurately you can judge the plumb of the mast, so don't use a 3" level. Use something like a 10", 12" or longer level.

The tip from Tron to use a gate hinge or something similar on the mast, set below the motor, is an excellent tip. This provides the motor with a "shelf" to rest on to prevent it from sliding down. This has more of an advantage than you may realize.

When you loosen the motor clamps to be able to rotate the motor on the mast, you can utilize this shelf to help support the motor during the process. Without this "shelf", you may tend to loosen the upper clamp/s more than the lower and use the lower clamp/s as a stop to hold the motor from sliding down the mast. Doing this will change the motor and dish elevation angles since the motor bracket is obviously drooping downward when the upper clamps/s are more loose.

You want to loosen both upper and lower clamps the same amount and only just enough so that you can "spin" the motor bracket on the mast while setting the true azimuth angle. The tip of having something for the motor to rest upon during the process will provide an extremely beneficial support.

I hope that this information proves beneficial to you.

RADAR

 

[rcdif]

"The Motor should be at Zero when locked on your Tues South Sat"

If I am reading the above quote correctly. You should zero your motor and then tune in your due south sat (or the sat as close as you can get to it) I have been positioning my motor to my due south sat (using USALS) and then tuning in the sat. I have also been unable to fallow much of the ark. For clarification which way should I be doing it? Thanks

 

[jwf593]

Success!! (i hope) [fingers-crossed]

well, things are looking pretty good. i have gotten a nice firm lock on my 'true west' and a great picture for Macy's TV. And, I've been able to find and load programming on 4 other close-by satellites. And, most importantly, been able to go back to 105W and still have a picture!

thanks for the advice about the gate hinge, or muffler clamp - i hope i don't have any more movement to make in the motor, but it still seems like a good idea.

when i said 'slightly out of plumb' what i mean is that, with a good bubble level i have the bubble between the lines - but not exactly centered between them. i have read over and over how important it is to be STRAIGHT in all directions. and at all other places on my mount all my angles are good and straight - it's only across the top of the motor bracket that it's slipped a little.

fyi, i discovered the bad angle when i was getting very strong signal Strength. But no amount of swinging east-west or up-down would get me any good Quality. well, in desperation i adjusted my Skew....Bingo! i'd read enough to know quickly that i must have an 'angle' problem. so, out came the level and i started checking everything again. (it had all been good after construction).

i'm still not totally out of the woods - i need to replace or reinforce the U-bolts (this is Cheyenne and the wind does BLOW here!) any good advice on how to SUPER-size my mounts to stand up to the wind is welcome. i set the dish up as a wall mount to give it as much shelter from the wind as possible, but it's still going to be a problem i am sure.

well, back to scanning - i am trying to add satellite number 5, at 119W!

thanks to all!

jeff

 

[Lak7]

I have been positioning my motor to my due south sat (using USALS) and then tuning in the sat

That will work too!
I just find it easier to get everything aligned before the motor moving.

If you have Good / Great Quality on your TS Sat using USALS, drive to a Sat to the East or West that you hardly get Q, then try to determine ifs Raising or Lowering Dish Elevation improves signal, just putting pressure on the top / bottom of the Dish is good, no need to loosen anything.
See the bottom of this page:
Footprints by Dish Size - Adjusting the Polar Mount for Prime Focus Antenna - C/Ku-Band Satellite Systems - Tuning, Tracking, Azimuth, Elevation, Declination Angles, F/D Ratio, Focal Distance, Inclinometer, LNB/Feedhorn Assembly, Actuator Assembly, C