Need Hepl On Roof Antenna

Walker1

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Jun 17, 2005
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Hi All, I got a Vip-722 Dish HD Rec./DVR about 3 weeks ago. Here in W. Palm Beach, FL Dish gets the local chs., But NOT in HD. I have a new Sony KDS-R60XBR2 HD set.

I followed the instructions to scan in the local chs. from my current roof antenna and no problem. They all turned into HD. The only problem I have is replacing the roof antenna with another one for the best signal & PQ. The roof antenna is 17 yrs. old and I boughtit when I had C-Band to pick up local chs.

I have been reading many posts, but I am somewhat confused about what antenna to buy. I read that Dish sells HD antennas to customers with HD receivers. The W. Palm Bch chs. are not real far away & FL is flat. All I would have to do is remove the old antenna from the pole, bolt on the new one, and point it in the right direction. Two chs. are slightly left of where the 3 UHF chs. are strongest. If I'm understanding the posts I think I might need an omni directional antenna.

Or should I call Dish & get a price on one of their's? I would appreciate all feedback. Thanks.:cool:
 
This is just me, but the antenna you have is probably OK. It sounds to me like you only need a Rotor to turn the antenna in the direction you are watching (for best signal). If you are having Pixelation problem, you might need an Amplifier for the antenna, but I think not? Then again, at this time, a lot of Digital Stations across the country are at Low Power and some will wait for the Feb. 2009 deadline, before they go to full power. I can't speak for the Stations where you are? But I think a Rotor is probably all you need? Good Luck!

Al
 
A few questions

whe do you lie---zip code preferably.
What are the signal strengths you are getting?
Are there any other digital channels you would like to get?


If you are grtting all the locals with reasonable strength there may be nothing else that a new antenna could bring in. Some margin for bad signal conditions would be nice but it might not do anything at all.
 
You probably dont need a new antenna. Try an amp such as the Winegard ap8700. My brother has a Winegard HD7082 that was hit by lightning and blew out the terminal board. I replaced the terminal board added and amp and it works great all of his locals 90+ on Signal meter. IT is even missing 2 elements and all the delta wings are broke off and it still performs, i am amazed. I would only replace your antenna if you are missing a bunch of elements, but if all of your locals are uhf, a few missing elemnts should not be a problem.
 
A few questions

whe do you lie---zip code preferably.
What are the signal strengths you are getting?
Are there any other digital channels you would like to get?


If you are grtting all the locals with reasonable strength there may be nothing else that a new antenna could bring in. Some margin for bad signal conditions would be nice but it might not do anything at all.

Hi, I live @ zip code 33412-1771. Signal strength on 3 chs.- 60's, 2 chs.- 95.

I know nothing about any other digital chs. around here. I just got my TV 2 mos. ago & I have not been following any articles on digital chs. other than the networks.
 
This is just me, but the antenna you have is probably OK. It sounds to me like you only need a Rotor to turn the antenna in the direction you are watching (for best signal). If you are having Pixelation problem, you might need an Amplifier for the antenna, but I think not? Then again, at this time, a lot of Digital Stations across the country are at Low Power and some will wait for the Feb. 2009 deadline, before they go to full power. I can't speak for the Stations where you are? But I think a Rotor is probably all you need? Good Luck!

Al

I was told that a new antenna will pick up chs. much stronger than an old, beat up one. I might consider an amp. Any other thoughts on amps?
 
You probably dont need a new antenna. Try an amp such as the Winegard ap8700. My brother has a Winegard HD7082 that was hit by lightning and blew out the terminal board. I replaced the terminal board added and amp and it works great all of his locals 90+ on Signal meter. IT is even missing 2 elements and all the delta wings are broke off and it still performs, i am amazed. I would only replace your antenna if you are missing a bunch of elements, but if all of your locals are uhf, a few missing elemnts should not be a problem.

Hi, I am missing 1 VHF element. The UHF antenna is clamped to the pole as is the VHF antenna. The pole is fine. All cable runs are in my garage attic which is easy to get to. The signal on the 2 VHF chs. is in the 90,s. Signal on 1 UHF ch. is 100, the other 2 is in the 60's. One ch. is weak & cuts out at times. Perhaps an amp would give me the boost I need.

Where did you buy the amp? How many db's gain? Let me know. Thanks.
 
A new antenna might be cheaper than an amp. You can't amplify what the antenna does not pickup.
 
A new antenna might be cheaper than an amp. You can't amplify what the antenna does not pickup.

Jim, The 5 local chs. are not far away. Three are in the 60's range & the other 2 are in the 90's. OK, What antenna would you recommend @ what cost from who? Do you have Dish & if so do you know what they would charge me for a new ant. ? Thanks, Dan
 
I was told that a new antenna will pick up chs. much stronger than an old, beat up one. I might consider an amp. Any other thoughts on amps?

And they had one to sell you, right? :( Antennas really don't wear out, they may suffer if you have wind or ice damage, are corroded badly (as you may be in FL, although most are made of aluminum), or some other kind of PHYSICAL damage has been done on them. Analog antennas are IDENTICAL to HDTV antennas, the waves they pick up are the same wavelength and so the whole HDTV antenna thing is a major hoax by dealers and manufacturers. Unless the one you have is really in bad shape, stick with it if it used to work on analog for you.

Since you have some readings of ~95 and some in 60s, how about you move the antenna a bit toward the ones that are lowest and see if you can't raise them some without trashing the already high ones before you start laying out any $$$ for an amp.

If you cannot resolve the issue otherwise, get a GOOD amp, one like has already been mentioned. If you are going to use one, remember, if you wish to hook more than one TV up to an antenna using an amp, have to hook the thing up properly (pay very close attention to the manual.)

Let us know how it goes and Good Luck!
 
And they had one to sell you, right? :( Antennas really don't wear out, they may suffer if you have wind or ice damage, are corroded badly (as you may be in FL, although most are made of aluminum), or some other kind of PHYSICAL damage has been done on them. Analog antennas are IDENTICAL to HDTV antennas, the waves they pick up are the same wavelength and so the whole HDTV antenna thing is a major hoax by dealers and manufacturers. Unless the one you have is really in bad shape, stick with it if it used to work on analog for you.

Since you have some readings of ~95 and some in 60s, how about you move the antenna a bit toward the ones that are lowest and see if you can't raise them some without trashing the already high ones before you start laying out any $$$ for an amp.

If you cannot resolve the issue otherwise, get a GOOD amp, one like has already been mentioned. If you are going to use one, remember, if you wish to hook more than one TV up to an antenna using an amp, have to hook the thing up properly (pay very close attention to the manual.)

Let us know how it goes and Good Luck!

Mike, Yes, I'm hip to all the BS about HD antenns, etc. Are you saying you'd rather amp an old ant. up vs. buying a reasonably priced new one? Are you saying that my old ant. pulls in chs. as good as a brand new one? I always thought that wasnot the case. My ant. has been through 2 hurricanes and other than missing 1 VHF element it is intact.

BTW, I am only hooking up my main TV & my computer to the antenna. What amp would you recommend and where to buy it @ what price? Thanks, Dan
 
Try antennaweb.org. Punch in that zip---and your address if you wuish to and it will give youa list of digital stations.

it gave me this list for you

WPXP-DT 67.1 ION LAKE WORTH FL 180° 15.3 36
* yellow - vhf WPEC-DT 12.1 CBS WEST PALM BEACH FL 180° 15.3 13
* yellow - uhf WFGC-DT 49 CTN PALM BEACH FL FCC Ext 160° 3.5 49
* yellow - uhf WFLX-DT 29.1 FOX WEST PALM BEACH FL 188° 16.0 28
* yellow - uhf WPTV-DT 5.1 NBC WEST PALM BEACH FL 181° 15.2 55
* yellow - uhf WHDT-DT 59.1 IND STUART FL 127° 10.9 59
* yellow - uhf WXEL-DT 42.1 PBS WEST PALM BEACH FL 188° 16.0 27
* yellow - uhf WTCE-DT 38.1 TBN FORT PIERCE FL 17° 15.3 38
* red - uhf WPBF-DT 25.1 ABC WEST PALM BEACH FL 340° 23.9 16
* blue - uhf WTVX-DT 34.1 CW FORT PIERCE FL 341° 23.7 50
 
Hi, I live @ zip code 33412-1771. Signal strength on 3 chs.- 60's, 2 chs.- 95.

I know nothing about any other digital chs. around here. I just got my TV 2 mos. ago & I have not been following any articles on digital chs. other than the networks.


If you go to antennaweb.org and input your address, you can find out all the digital channels in your area (that are currently in their database.)

Took a look based on your zip and looks like MOST channels are @ 180 degrees (from compass north) and some are at 340. The closest ones are at 180 (~15 miles) and furthest are at 340 (~ 24 miles.) Bad news is that all except the CBS station are on UHF, so using 2 or more antennas gets to be rather pricey (something you should not need to do.)

What I would do, and I am in a similar situation is tune (orient) the antenna for the stations that are furthest away and see if you cannot pick up the closer ones off the backside of the current antenna. I get great reception this way and its worth a try for you, IMO.

If you want to get a new antenna, I would get one that is rated yellow/red/blue (they are on side of box) and go from there. My experience and from all I have seen of "omni-directional" antennas are is that they do a very poor job in all directions, so stay away from them, if at all possible.

Good Luck!
 
Mike, Yes, I'm hip to all the BS about HD antenns, etc. Are you saying you'd rather amp an old ant. up vs. buying a reasonably priced new one? Are you saying that my old ant. pulls in chs. as good as a brand new one? I always thought that wasnot the case. My ant. has been through 2 hurricanes and other than missing 1 VHF element it is intact.

BTW, I am only hooking up my main TV & my computer to the antenna. What amp would you recommend and where to buy it @ what price? Thanks, Dan

I would try the old antenna alone before I would do ANYTHING else. By re-aiming it, you very well may be able to use it with no other help. Some of the UGLIEST antennas I have ever seen work just fine, have helped friends with theirs that have been neglected for 20+ years as the people went to cable then and are now back with HDTV to antenna. :) Looks do NOT matter when it comes to antennas, and as long as the station you are wanting to watch was not served by that missing element, it was useless anyhow. (You could break all the unused elements off an antenna if you wished and as long as they were clean breaks, should cause no problems, in my experience.) :D

A shiny new antenna will most likely not be a bit better that what you already have, IMO, if it worked with analog, should be just fine with HDTV.

If re-aiming the antenna doesn't do what you wish, then I would personally buy a Channelmaster 7777. Solidsignal.com has it for 53.99 and
WarrenElectronics.com has it for 57.93. Those are 2 sites I have seen recommended a lot on this forum.

Hooking to both a HDTV AND a computer counts as TWO TVs. Remember, each splitter in line degrades the signal, so make sure that you have them hooked up only as you need them, although I am not saying not leave them connected all the time. Work it out 1st with the TV and then give the computer a try as well, too.

Good Luck!
 
I would try the old antenna alone before I would do ANYTHING else. By re-aiming it, you very well may be able to use it with no other help. Some of the UGLIEST antennas I have ever seen work just fine, have helped friends with theirs that have been neglected for 20+ years as the people went to cable then and are now back with HDTV to antenna. :) Looks do NOT matter when it comes to antennas, and as long as the station you are wanting to watch was not served by that missing element, it was useless anyhow. (You could break all the unused elements off an antenna if you wished and as long as they were clean breaks, should cause no problems, in my experience.) :D

A shiny new antenna will most likely not be a bit better that what you already have, IMO, if it worked with analog, should be just fine with HDTV.

If re-aiming the antenna doesn't do what you wish, then I would personally buy a Channelmaster 7777. Solidsignal.com has it for 53.99 and
WarrenElectronics.com has it for 57.93. Those are 2 sites I have seen recommended a lot on this forum.

Hooking to both a HDTV AND a computer counts as TWO TVs. Remember, each splitter in line degrades the signal, so make sure that you have them hooked up only as you need them, although I am not saying not leave them connected all the time. Work it out 1st with the TV and then give the computer a try as well, too.

Good Luck!

OK, I had a good look at the ant. As it turns out the original ant. has VHF & UHF, BUT the UHF elements are fixed with the VHF eles. I forgot that I mounted a UHF ant. on the pole below the VHF ant. I have 2 coax. runs going into a 2 way slitter- (Don't recall how or when) IE: 2 antennas are going into the outputs of a splitter and the input side has a piece of coax going into the attic where the main cable feeds are. All I can think of is I had no adaptor that takes 2 ant. inputs with 1 out to the main line.

No, I'm not an idiot- I don't recall ever needing to connect 2 antennas on a pole to 1 coax in a house. Well, I went over all the connections & played with both antennas trying to point them as best as possible.

I have NO idea what the correct connector part is I need to do the proper hookup from the 2 ant. Do you know what it's called? I was going into town tomorrow-probably by a R-Shack.

OK, It's 5 PM and all 5 locals come in. One VHF & 1 UHF ch. have 95 sigs. The other VHF & 2 UHF's are in the low-mid 70's. Makes me wonder if an amp will do the trick. One of my favorites is @ 346 degrees while the others I watch are @ 179, 171, and 345.

If most signals are in the 70's my thoughts would lean towards amp, but I am no expert. I also hooked the main cable in line to the main TV only- no computer to share the line. Let me know your thoughts based on what I have told you. Thanks.
 
OK, I had a good look at the ant. As it turns out the original ant. has VHF & UHF, BUT the UHF elements are fixed with the VHF eles. I forgot that I mounted a UHF ant. on the pole below the VHF ant. I have 2 coax. runs going into a 2 way slitter- (Don't recall how or when) IE: 2 antennas are going into the outputs of a splitter and the input side has a piece of coax going into the attic where the main cable feeds are. All I can think of is I had no adaptor that takes 2 ant. inputs with 1 out to the main line.

No, I'm not an idiot- I don't recall ever needing to connect 2 antennas on a pole to 1 coax in a house. Well, I went over all the connections & played with both antennas trying to point them as best as possible.

I have NO idea what the correct connector part is I need to do the proper hookup from the 2 ant. Do you know what it's called? I was going into town tomorrow-probably by a R-Shack.

OK, It's 5 PM and all 5 locals come in. One VHF & 1 UHF ch. have 95 sigs. The other VHF & 2 UHF's are in the low-mid 70's. Makes me wonder if an amp will do the trick. One of my favorites is @ 346 degrees while the others I watch are @ 179, 171, and 345.

If most signals are in the 70's my thoughts would lean towards amp, but I am no expert. I also hooked the main cable in line to the main TV only- no computer to share the line. Let me know your thoughts based on what I have told you. Thanks.

Bingo!

The splitter you have combining the 2 antenna outputs is also called a diplexer (sp?) as they are the same thing. The way you have them hooked up was / is just fine. They are often used to combine the input from a UHF and a VHF antenna to send the signal down one signal line to a TV. The way you have them hooked up is just fine and very workable, in fact the so called combo UHF/VHF antennas have one built-in. :)

Now that you have some pretty decent signals coming in and have worked the antenna about all you can, its time for plan #b. :)

I looked at WarrenElectronics.com and they have a Channelmaster Model 3039 for ~ $35, which sounds like it will do what you need. Take a look at it and as have read good reports on the ChannelMasters and WineGuards.

Just took a look at the Radio Shack web-site and it appears they have one that may very well work (no telling who makes it, though), per the reviews.
Its their: In-Line Signal Amplifier - Model: 15-1170 | Catalog #: 15-1170 and is $40, and best part is, if it doesn't work for you, you can take it back soon! :) I live in a metro of ~ 2 million and have to order most TV supplies though as it seems the places that sold the stuff all vanished with the advent of cable and satellite, but they are now starting to come back. You can check some local places to see if you can find what you need, but otherwise, just make sure you can return parts if they won't work for you. (Have heard too many tales on AVSForums of people being stuck with parts that they cannot use. :( )

Sounds like you are almost there!

Good Luck!
-Mike
 
Bingo!

The splitter you have combining the 2 antenna outputs is also called a diplexer (sp?) as they are the same thing. The way you have them hooked up was / is just fine. They are often used to combine the input from a UHF and a VHF antenna to send the signal down one signal line to a TV. The way you have them hooked up is just fine and very workable, in fact the so called combo UHF/VHF antennas have one built-in. :)

Now that you have some pretty decent signals coming in and have worked the antenna about all you can, its time for plan #b. :)

I looked at WarrenElectronics.com and they have a Channelmaster Model 3039 for ~ $35, which sounds like it will do what you need. Take a look at it and as have read good reports on the ChannelMasters and WineGuards.

Just took a look at the Radio Shack web-site and it appears they have one that may very well work (no telling who makes it, though), per the reviews.
Its their: In-Line Signal Amplifier - Model: 15-1170 | Catalog #: 15-1170 and is $40, and best part is, if it doesn't work for you, you can take it back soon! :) I live in a metro of ~ 2 million and have to order most TV supplies though as it seems the places that sold the stuff all vanished with the advent of cable and satellite, but they are now starting to come back. You can check some local places to see if you can find what you need, but otherwise, just make sure you can return parts if they won't work for you. (Have heard too many tales on AVSForums of people being stuck with parts that they cannot use. :( )

Sounds like you are almost there!

Good Luck!
-Mike

Hi, I looked @ both amps. The Shack amp puts out up to 10DB's & the C-Master puts out 13DB. Way back in 1987-89 I lived in CT. I had a large roof ant. to pull in 1 station that was 45 miles away. I bought an inline amp exactly like the current Shack amp. The amp made that weak ch. comein much better. It was analog of course. About once a year the piece on the roof would quit, but I didn't care as I wanted that ch. for several programs.

Next- I read some reviews from guys who bought this amp and they said something about not using a splitter before the line amp. In my case I use the splitter to combine the 2 ant. together to send just 1 cable down to main house cable in.

I didn't see anything on Warren's site regarding returns. I know the Shack has a good return pol. Last night I watched Prison Break on Fox. I made sure I had the ant. turned @ Fox's sig. to get the best pic. And, it was superb with a 100 sig. HD TV is amazing if you have a strong sig.

This morning I checked the sig. strength on the 5 local chs. I care about. VHF: 1 ch. @ 98, the other @ 74. UHF: ch. 25-(ABC) @ 100, ch. 29- (Fox) @ 100, ch. 34- (ind.) @ 68. These are the only chs. I care about @ this time.

Question: If I amp them up will the really strong chs. start ghosting or double imaging with the signal boosted up? I'd hate to buy an amp & find out it's NG for the strong chs.

What do you think?
 
Hi, I looked @ both amps. The Shack amp puts out up to 10DB's & the C-Master puts out 13DB. Way back in 1987-89 I lived in CT. I had a large roof ant. to pull in 1 station that was 45 miles away. I bought an inline amp exactly like the current Shack amp. The amp made that weak ch. comein much better. It was analog of course. About once a year the piece on the roof would quit, but I didn't care as I wanted that ch. for several programs.

Next- I read some reviews from guys who bought this amp and they said something about not using a splitter before the line amp. In my case I use the splitter to combine the 2 ant. together to send just 1 cable down to main house cable in.

I didn't see anything on Warren's site regarding returns. I know the Shack has a good return pol. Last night I watched Prison Break on Fox. I made sure I had the ant. turned @ Fox's sig. to get the best pic. And, it was superb with a 100 sig. HD TV is amazing if you have a strong sig.

This morning I checked the sig. strength on the 5 local chs. I care about. VHF: 1 ch. @ 98, the other @ 74. UHF: ch. 25-(ABC) @ 100, ch. 29- (Fox) @ 100, ch. 34- (ind.) @ 68. These are the only chs. I care about @ this time.

Question: If I amp them up will the really strong chs. start ghosting or double imaging with the signal boosted up? I'd hate to buy an amp & find out it's NG for the strong chs.

What do you think?

If you use a preamp from anyone, be sure you do not use a splitter for TV sets before the power in-line module. The combiner that you are using will be just fine, as you are combining with it, not splitting.

What you really have is:
vhf antenna \\
uhf antenna // combiner ---> common antenna cable ---> TV set

When you add a preamp to the system, be sure you add it after the combiner, but before the TV set (or a splitter add in-line before the TV set.)

As for the ghosting, etc. that is the awesome thing about digital TV, you don't have to worry about that like you do with analog. The things you DO have to worry about are artifacting and pixelation, both of which are caused by too weak a signal.

With the readings you are getting, you can use a weaker preamp than someone who is not getting as strong a signal would need. The reason I would go for a weaker one is that a much stronger one could introduce a front end overload to your set and could be interesting, although most sets can deal with it OK. :)

Whoops, just looked at RS again and that amp only has a 90 day warranty on it, so may just get another one from another source. DAYUM! As far as Warren goes, they are highly recommended on this forum and @ AVSForums, so just know that I would put them at head of the list compared to buying blind, but would recommend calling and asking about returns, warranties, etc. Some people have found these amps at Lowe's and HDepots near them, but none in my metro area carried parts when I needed them. You may wish to check them out as well, sometimes it makes me feel better to pay more and get it locally so I can return it easier if it doesn't work out, but then that is just me. :)

Good Luck!
-Mike
 
If you use a preamp from anyone, be sure you do not use a splitter for TV sets before the power in-line module. The combiner that you are using will be just fine, as you are combining with it, not splitting.

What you really have is:
vhf antenna \\
uhf antenna // combiner ---> common antenna cable ---> TV set

When you add a preamp to the system, be sure you add it after the combiner, but before the TV set (or a splitter add in-line before the TV set.)

As for the ghosting, etc. that is the awesome thing about digital TV, you don't have to worry about that like you do with analog. The things you DO have to worry about are artifacting and pixelation, both of which are caused by too weak a signal.

With the readings you are getting, you can use a weaker preamp than someone who is not getting as strong a signal would need. The reason I would go for a weaker one is that a much stronger one could introduce a front end overload to your set and could be interesting, although most sets can deal with it OK. :)

Whoops, just looked at RS again and that amp only has a 90 day warranty on it, so may just get another one from another source. DAYUM! As far as Warren goes, they are highly recommended on this forum and @ AVSForums, so just know that I would put them at head of the list compared to buying blind, but would recommend calling and asking about returns, warranties, etc. Some people have found these amps at Lowe's and HDepots near them, but none in my metro area carried parts when I needed them. You may wish to check them out as well, sometimes it makes me feel better to pay more and get it locally so I can return it easier if it doesn't work out, but then that is just me. :)

Good Luck!
-Mike

Hi Mike, I picked up the Shack amp yesterday. It only has a max. output of 10 DB so I feel good about that. The Mgr. tried to talk me into a 30 DB gain amp, but I think that would be overkill in this situation. Of course I can always bring this amp back if it does not meet expectations. This is the same line amp I had 20 yrs. ago in CT. It had to be replaced annually, but it worked great. The Shack sells a 2 yr. warranty for $10 & I will go back & buy it if the amp works out. I installed two 25' cables the other day when I took the ant. & pole down for maint. and height adj. on the UHF ant. Now I can reach the UHF ant. w/out going on the roof. My pole goes into the ground & clamps to the house. I simply loosen the 4 bracket nuts and I can turn the whole thing for fine tuning.

I used the longer cables as they are from cable with nice ends. Today I will shorten them, hook up to the combiner, and then to the main attic cable. The only thing I don't like is the builder used RG-59 cables in the house & I have no access to where the TV is to run an RG-6 cable. After I do this I'll recheck the sig. on all the dig. chs. At that point if I'm still getting 2 weaker sigs. I will install the line amp and recheck the new sig. readings.

I'll let you know what the sigs. are when I'm done.

Dan
 
Hi Mike, I picked up the Shack amp yesterday. It only has a max. output of 10 DB so I feel good about that. The Mgr. tried to talk me into a 30 DB gain amp, but I think that would be overkill in this situation. Of course I can always bring this amp back if it does not meet expectations. This is the same line amp I had 20 yrs. ago in CT. It had to be replaced annually, but it worked great. The Shack sells a 2 yr. warranty for $10 & I will go back & buy it if the amp works out. I installed two 25' cables the other day when I took the ant. & pole down for maint. and height adj. on the UHF ant. Now I can reach the UHF ant. w/out going on the roof. My pole goes into the ground & clamps to the house. I simply loosen the 4 bracket nuts and I can turn the whole thing for fine tuning.

I used the longer cables as they are from cable with nice ends. Today I will shorten them, hook up to the combiner, and then to the main attic cable. The only thing I don't like is the builder used RG-59 cables in the house & I have no access to where the TV is to run an RG-6 cable. After I do this I'll recheck the sig. on all the dig. chs. At that point if I'm still getting 2 weaker sigs. I will install the line amp and recheck the new sig. readings.

I'll let you know what the sigs. are when I'm done.

Dan

Mike, This morning's sig. readings with amp in place: 5- 93, 12- 74, 25- 100, 29- 81, & 34 is off the air. I can't get a sig. reading until it's broadcasting. I called the station and they told me the head end is being worked on. So far I see a slight increase in the signals, but I'm not sure yet. I have 30 days to return the amp if need be. The weather changes the sigs. as well. I really need to see a signal on 34 before I can evaluate things as 34 is the weakest UHF ch.
 

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