need super lnbf

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switch configuration

Please don't laugh at my skills with PAINT, it's not something I'm accustomed to using.
However, this picture demonstrates what I was thinking about to solve the request above.
Maybe if some folks with more switch experience would care to review it, I'll leave it or take it down as appropriate.
 

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Here are a few comments I have.

Anole very nice diagram in paint .:)

The only issue I see is I think the 2:1 Diseq switch is a 22khz switch, can you have a universal LNB after a 22khz switch? (I do see that it is connected to the on port).
 
Here are a few comments I have.

Anole very nice diagram in paint .:)

The only issue I see is I think the 2:1 Diseq switch is a 22khz switch, can you have a universal LNB after a 22khz switch? (I do see that it is connected to the on port).
That picture may be a 22khz switch, but they definitely make 2 port diseqc switches (compatible with universals)
 
Well, in the end I decided to cheat and use whatever picture I had, then label it to say what it was.
Though, I believe the 4x4 and 2x4 switches are fairly accurate.
I did smudge the sticker on the little 2-port blocks so you couldn't read them.
Not that the others are really all that identifiable in these low resolution pix, either.

And, I needed a shape that would flow well in the picture.
Stupid diseqc switches with all the connectors on the bottom would have been inconvenient to wire up.
What it actually was, is a 4-port diseqc, but I erased the extra two inputs on the bottom.

You'll note also, the 2x4 switch is really a 3x4, but I wiped off the TV input. :)

The Satpros 500 receivers were a private joke, too.
I actually own one, and it was the first receiver picture I ran across.
Next time, maybe I'll use Mercury II's. ;)

Anyway, it was late, and it was my first.
I think I'll stand by it... unless there's a technical reason it won't work.
I didn't realize 'till later that hooking a motor to the above might be a problem, and how that would work should be discussed.


edit:
VoomVoom -
hahahah well, I think I gave Linuxman enough grief over in his 8.5' thread.
Right now, my Paint skills are much worse than what he's doing with cans and a sprayer!
The secret in both cases, is to step back far enough, and not look too closely. :)
 
... I didn't realize 'till later that hooking a motor to the above might be a problem, and how that would work should be discussed...
FYI, I've had luck hooking up a self-powered diseqc 1.0 motor past a diseqc switch. I'm not that versed with the issues of hooking up a motor after the diseqc, but it works fine to hook up a vboxII after the diseqc (been doing that for awhile now). I'm assuming that you could do an external power mod on a SG2100 and use the stored locations instead of GOTOxx, and that would work too.
 
Only one of the three receivers is allowed to control the motor in the configuration that was requested.
And in truth, all three LNBs are on one dish with the one motor.
I just drew it as three dishes to make it more clear (didn't work, eh?) :D

We'll have to get a judgement from the switch experts, but I think you can put an h-h motor (or Vbox) between any receiver and its first 2x1 diseqc switch.
Shouldn't be necessary to locate a motor beyond a switch.
Nor neessary to remote-power an SG-2100.

The Vbox is particularly nice if you're moving the dish with a linear actuator.
And of course, it is self-powered. :cool:


edit -
Code:
[FONT=Courier New]Programming Matrix for the switch configuration shown:
=====================================================

[B] C-band[/B] LNB  = diseqc 1, 22khz on,  V & H selected by 12 & 18 volts.
[B]
DBS[/B] circular = diseqc 1, 22khz off, R & L selected by 12 & 18 volts.
[B]
Universal[/B] Ku = diseqc 2, 22khz on for high band (most North America)
                         22khz off for low band
                         V & H selected by 12 & 18 volts.[/FONT]
 
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Here's my setup :)

I know it does not look that great, but it works well for me and the tie-wraps have held it in place since June without any problems.

The 1.2 Meter Dish (Large one) is on a motor GS120.
The 36" Dish is pointed at 103 Degrees West due to the weird skew.

Hopefully this might give Brotherhood some ideas.

I am setting up a similiar system. I am getting nothing from the C-Band lnbf. I tested all switches, etc. My C-Band lnbf is mounted approx. 3" away from the center lnb (Ku) and approx. 3" higher. I am concerned that I am simply too far away from the focus point. How close do I need to bring the C-Band lnbf to the center/focus point? If I lower the C-Band lnbf, the side support arm which runs to the dish will block at least a part of the scalar rings. Any thoughts? comments? solutions?
I am using an offset CM 1.2 m dish.
I'll post pictures when it's all working. I used a very simple design which I think the members might enjoy looking at!
 
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My C-Band LNB center is 4.75" away from the Ku band LNB center.

I don't think you can get away with having the LNB much higher than the Ku band LNB, they should be in the same plane, otherwise you will not be at the right focal point.

My scaler ring is slightly blocked by the LNB support bars but the LNB itself is not.

Also remember like I said, to receive a C-Band satellite I have to move the dish about 6 degrees west from the actual location.
 
are your three lnbs parellel to each other or are the two lnbs on the sides angled inwards a bit and is the c-Band lnb angled slightly downwards?
 
are your three lnbs parellel to each other or are the two lnbs on the sides angled inwards a bit and is the c-Band lnb angled slightly downwards?


For the most part they are parallel, the C-Band LNB is slightly angled inwards mainly because the scaler ring it tie wrapped to the LNB support bar. The circular LNB is parallel to the Ku band LNB (not angled inward).
 
I'm getting nothing on cband---I'm at 71 W--can you recommend a few strong transponders for me to aim at?
Thanks again.
 
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