on pole size i good for info,but what type

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What part of the country do you live lonestar? Also fyi, many counties have building codes that come into play here. All it takes is a neighbor complaint that brings the building inspector out and then you have real problems. Also one more thing to consider, mounting a dish with as little as possible might "work", however you mentioned "let it spn", well if it can spin then it can also blow off and wind up where you don't want it like through your roof, or worse yet through a neighbors property. C-band only setups don't need to be as stout as Ku setups. Ku setups need to be spot on. A sparrow landing on a dish that flexes could wipe out a Ku signal. From experiance here I have made a 16th of a turn on a bolt and completly lost signal on Ku. Maybe for you your setup is satisfactory. But for most of us it simply will not work due to the freezing of the ground and what is called "frost heave" where the ground will upheave the installation unless you are below the frostline. That is why the hole for general purposes needs to be so deep. To get below the frost line. Have a great day!
 
Just going to drop this in. In my earlier post in the shack, http://www.satelliteguys.us/fta-shack/249376-got-little-windy-while-i-gone.html I showed some pictures. C-Band dish was about 20 feet from its post. KU was a good 60 feet away. I say again, it depends on your situation / location etc. One of my bigger dishes, over 10 foot that was not yet mounted - and never will be, ended up in a neighbors yard - OVER ONE MILE EAST! No damage to anyone elses property.

LoneCloud: The building was built plumb.Two years ago, it was still plumb. When I checked it again in March, the building had a lean to it. IT DEPENDS ON YOUR SITUATION.
 
Here is some info on Schedule 40 Pipe sizes. As I mentioned in another post, both my 7.5ft SAMI and my 10ft Winegard dishes required a pipe that was 3.5 inches Outside Diameter, which crosses over to 3 inch schedule 40 as per info here.

Nominal Pipe Size - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The 12 ft dish that I got screwed out of a few months back required a 4 inch OD pipe and my plan there was to use yet another 3 inch schedule 40 pipe with a 4 inch schedule 40 PLASTIC pipe bushing on the end where that dish would have mounted.

Here in Virginia we don't usually see temps below zero and the coldest nights are usually around the mid to upper teens. My water line coming from my well is 18 or so inches deep and I've never had it freeze up in 11 winters. That is why my dish mount is only 30 inches deep in the ground and 24 inches round as half that amount is well below the frost line for my area.

Now if I had of mounted a fibreglass dish then I might have made the hole larger with more concrete but as it stands, my 10 ft Winegard dish has been up now for 11 winters and it's been solid as a rock since I put it up.
 
What part of the country do you live lonestar? Also fyi, many counties have building codes that come into play here. All it takes is a neighbor complaint that brings the building inspector out and then you have real problems. Also one more thing to consider, mounting a dish with as little as possible might "work", however you mentioned "let it spn", well if it can spin then it can also blow off and wind up where you don't want it like through your roof, or worse yet through a neighbors property. C-band only setups don't need to be as stout as Ku setups. Ku setups need to be spot on. A sparrow landing on a dish that flexes could wipe out a Ku signal. From experiance here I have made a 16th of a turn on a bolt and completly lost signal on Ku. Maybe for you your setup is satisfactory. But for most of us it simply will not work due to the freezing of the ground and what is called "frost heave" where the ground will upheave the installation unless you are below the frostline. That is why the hole for general purposes needs to be so deep. To get below the frost line. Have a great day!


Southern California. and who gets permits for this? Just people who want meddling bureaucrats to find busywork.

True, I have no frost issues, but I sincerely doubt three feet down is going to put you below the frost line. Sure, the environmental issues are there and they will somehow conspire to throw you off of plumb. That will be true no matter where you live.

If I have a flood or an earthquake (both pretty likely and throw in fire) that throws me off, ongoing maintenance will require things to be reset. The only way a pole sitting in a multi ton footing can move is again with machines and jacks and more machines.

If I lived out there on the tundra, and was setting up a free standing big dish, I would go 2 feet deep around the pole, and then pour a five inch slab in about a four foot circle around it - all tied together with steel. I'd not tighten down hard on the cap mount, and if it ever went out of plumb, just lift a little here and shim there. I bet it wouldn't go out often though
 
I am installing my 10ft dish and would like to know if anyone has used
galvanized 3 inch steel conduit pipe with concrete inside. would that give close to the strength i need for this dish? I cannot find black solid steel pipe here unless i pay an arm and aleg for it.:confused:

I've never put concrete down the pipe - not even with a 12 footer - and never had strength issues.
 
I sincerely doubt three feet down is going to put you below the frost
line.

Doubt all you want.... I'm set to house foundation code. Mount it like you want too. I don't have to fix it if the dish moves or gets damaged. I was simply offering one of many solutions. The solution I gave is from my experiance based on my soil conditions and where I live. I made it clear that it depends on your location. You seem to want to just argue and shoot down everyones input. Well my friend, I don't argue. Life is too short. Have a great day!

Southern California. and who gets permits for this?

I never said get a permit..... I simply mentioned that there are code restrictions in certian areas. That along with the fact that sometimes neighbors are nosy, can bring a visit from the building code people.
 
Sorry if you took offense. Didn't mean to offend.

All I'm saying is that the initial investment in this hobby is dramatically high if you have to bring in heavy machines and concrete trucks.

It probably discourages a lot of newbies. Also, that wind event that caused me to set the dish back at the punch marks, would have occurred whether or not I had a deep footing. I had it back and aimed inside of five mnutes.

Anyway, Sorry to offend. Just here to help and to learn
 
No offense taken my friend. I just wanted to be clear as to my circumstances that are in my local area. I was also only being honest is all. After all, I only have to work on my system and nobody elses. Sometimes however at only 3 - 5 dollars a bag, a little extra concrete is of little expense and also cheap insurance against the elements. You have to look at your soil conditions. All we here can do is give ideas for people to consider. From your location depth is a non issue because you don't have the freezing issues. Hell I have seen dishes mounted on old delapidated landscape trailers! But if you have firm soil, you can get by with less. One thing to remember is that the pole be solid. If there is any flex the dish will be impossible to track the arc correctly. Alignment will be next to impossible. Now if the dish is a stationary one, a little flex could be ok, but in a wind it could cause you to loose signal. I picked up a free 10 foot dish. I spent 150 bucks for the pole, and concrete. That to me was not too expensive. I dug the hole myself, and took my time getting the dish so I was able to get the ribbon cable without damaging it. With a little looking around, and a little patience during the installation, a cheap and rewarding solution can be had that will net you years of trouble free service. You have a great day my friend!
 
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