I figured that I'll start a new thread on this subject.
After just checking, I keep getting pulse count errors of 10 or more. Everything on the dish is secured so I'm considering replacing the reed. There's got to be a way to get more accurate pointing without it costing "an arm and a leg". I wonder if there's a reed that I can get that'll double the counts. Or maybe I should go find a better actuator? I don't recall seeing any reviews on actuators in our forum or on the web.I just installed some angle iron but I only bolted it on for testing. I found that I got an additional 1.8 pulse counts per degree, only. That's an additional 3.6 pulses between sats. That's not very impressive to me. The shaft was clamped down an additional 13 inches after the angle iron was installed. I could adjust it out an additional 13 inches but I can't justify the additional effort just to get an additional 1.8 pulses per degree. For 2 degree spacing of the sats, this would give me an additional 7.2 counts separation of sat positions (if I were to adjust out an additional 18 inches). And I didn't see an improvement in pointing stability, either. On the positive side, I got a greater view of the arc and the angle iron didn't bend.
Maybe pulse modulation would help with improving pointing accuracy. If there's something available that has been thoroughly tested - I'd be interested in hearing the details. Maybe next time I'll consider buying an HH mount. Would that be more accurate?I once alluded to pulse-modulating the motor power, but nobody seemed to care.
Having experimented with model trains and my own pulsed supply, I can attest to their usefulness! -
We crept along the engine below the visible motion threshold.
And at full torque!
Only way to see it move, was with through closed-circuit video, with the camera aimed at a dust mote on one drive wheel!
The problem with moving dishes, is that there is currently no controller using PWM technology on the market.
And making one from scratch, would be a tall order.
edit:
I'd like to go one step further.
For an H-H motor setup on a BUD, I'd like to use USALS.
It'd just take setting up one variable: the number of steps per degree.
The rest is all left to the receiver to calculate (if I remember correctly)!