Powermax SG9120 motor with Coolsat 8000 HD
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OK.
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What happens or what is the sequence of events that makes it necessary to reset the motor?
Tell us more...
What happens or what is the sequence of events that makes it necessary to reset the motor?
Well, the problem is not new. The very few instances I noticed this anomaly, I got the impression this would happen whenever I got to 125 w (93 w is my true south sat). The box would freeze upon zapping through the channels on that bird, and the motor would no longer operate automatically. Since then, upon some recommendation from some friends here, I deleted the unnecessary TPs on 125, and the freezing issue seemed to have disappeared - although I am always reticent in driving the motor that far west if I am not planning an immediate trip to the roof shortly thereafter. Recently, I have added an 8-footer to my setup, and to operate both dishes I installed a A/B type witch by the receiver, so I could toggle between C and KU with a touch of a button and not having to reach to the back of the receiver and play the unplug-plug game. I’ve noticed that when I switch back from C-band to KU, (particularly if the C-band connection has been established for a long time) the image on the ku side does not come in at all, even though it’s aiming at the right sat, and the right channel is selected. In these cases, the signal strength is abnormally low, and Q, nonexistent. I reboot the unit, and image comes right back, but the motor no longer moves with USALS. There are other occasions, however, that I need to reset without any signal input switching. The last time this happened was when I decided to watch tv off of 72 w. Got there alright, but never came back on its own. (I did notice I lost color halfway through the show I was watching, and had to do a power cycling to restore it). It looks like it does not like sats far from the center… I don’t mind quick trips to the roof occasionally, but every couple of days seems to be excessive.
an A/B switch like that is asking for trouble....do you have the same problems without the switch there?....there should not really be ANY switches between your receiver and the motor....it should be a direct cable run....switches should come after the motor....
are your dishes close together?
if they are you should do as i suggested....straight cable run to the motor.....out of the motor into a diseqc switch....out of the switch to your LNBs.....
if your dishes are far apart you should try using a 22khz switch in place of the a/b switch....connect the motor to the off or 0 khz side....this way your receiver can switch between the dishes for you automatically....
if they are you should do as i suggested....straight cable run to the motor.....out of the motor into a diseqc switch....out of the switch to your LNBs.....
if your dishes are far apart you should try using a 22khz switch in place of the a/b switch....connect the motor to the off or 0 khz side....this way your receiver can switch between the dishes for you automatically....
Yes, they are far apart. What kind of switch is this, one of those I've seen advertised as "[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]One port DC pass"?[/FONT]
this setup has worked for me in the past....yes
however the general "rule" is to not have any switches at all between the receiver and the motor....the best thing for you to do would be to run a cable between the two dishes....from one dish to the other....and then put a diseqc switch outside at the motorized dish.....
so your wiring would be as follows.....
receiver > motor > diseqc switch
then out of the diseqc switch you would connect to your motorized LNB and you would also connect to your other dishes LNB....
however the general "rule" is to not have any switches at all between the receiver and the motor....the best thing for you to do would be to run a cable between the two dishes....from one dish to the other....and then put a diseqc switch outside at the motorized dish.....
so your wiring would be as follows.....
receiver > motor > diseqc switch
then out of the diseqc switch you would connect to your motorized LNB and you would also connect to your other dishes LNB....
I guess I will be experimenting... I'll try with the ECODA first (I just ordered one). But I have a feeling the HH motor will continue to ask for a reset, since this was happening even before, when the cable was running straight from the receiver to the motor.
have you tried a different receiver?....does the same thing happen?
sounds like a problem with the receiver or the motor....trying a different receiver would help isolate the problem....
Mikey, this has been trial and error from the beginning. The experience with an SV4000 was even more frustrating, as I had a chance to share here:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/free-air-fta-discussion/212618-erratic-motor-sv-4000-a.html
And then the issues continued when I got the CS8000 HD:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/free-air-fta-discussion/216954-box-motor.html
I bought both of these boxes used, so, who knows what kind of firmware had been installed on them that I could never really wipe off completely.
generally speaking i never really blame a motor for these type of problems because ultimately the motor is being controlled by the receiver.....however if you are having the EXACT same problems using different receivers then the problem might be the motor itself....
OK, got the ECODA. Now, on the receiver settings, which sats will have 22 KHz set to "on", and which ones will be set to "off"?
Thanks.
I am jumping in late, and did not read the full thread......
Keep in mind that the ECODA will pass Diseqc 1.2 Motor Controls to both sides at the same time, I would not use in a dual motor setup.
The only way I have found to run 2 Motors is with a Diseqc Switch - I have a GBox and SG2100 passing through a Diseqc Switch
I tried my SG6000 through a Switch, and the switch blew after a few moves.
Keep in mind that the ECODA will pass Diseqc 1.2 Motor Controls to both sides at the same time, I would not use in a dual motor setup.
The only way I have found to run 2 Motors is with a Diseqc Switch - I have a GBox and SG2100 passing through a Diseqc Switch
I tried my SG6000 through a Switch, and the switch blew after a few moves.
Confused
I've read many posts, and I've found somewhat contradictory opinions. Or maybe I'm not interpreting well what I read. Since it's a common belief an image is worth a thousand words, let me show my current setup. I just installed the ECODA this afternoon, and I haven't moved the dishes much (they are covered in snow :-(
So far, I am getting signal from both dishes, without having to switch signal with the A/B input selector I had before in place of the ECODA (first pic).
My first question is: is there anything wrong with the current setup?
My second question is: what can I do to solve a possible issue with the current setup, and what hardware can I use (second pic) in order to do so?
I also would like not to have my second receiver looped - I'd rather have a straight cable from the dish, so I can have on the SV4000 all the channels from whichever sat the CS8000 has the dish pointed at.
Feel free to download the pic and draw lines.
Thanks, guys!
I've read many posts, and I've found somewhat contradictory opinions. Or maybe I'm not interpreting well what I read. Since it's a common belief an image is worth a thousand words, let me show my current setup. I just installed the ECODA this afternoon, and I haven't moved the dishes much (they are covered in snow :-(
So far, I am getting signal from both dishes, without having to switch signal with the A/B input selector I had before in place of the ECODA (first pic).
My first question is: is there anything wrong with the current setup?
My second question is: what can I do to solve a possible issue with the current setup, and what hardware can I use (second pic) in order to do so?
I also would like not to have my second receiver looped - I'd rather have a straight cable from the dish, so I can have on the SV4000 all the channels from whichever sat the CS8000 has the dish pointed at.
Feel free to download the pic and draw lines.
Thanks, guys!
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