OTHER STAB HH-120 motor maintenance

[OswaldFTA]

Happy New Year!!!!

I recently got a used Stab HH-120 motor that is at least 10 years old (according to the previous owner) and I would like to remove the old grease from the gears and replaced with a fresh one. Since Stab is out of business and cannot be contacted anymore, what type of grease is recommended for this motor? Any tip for opening the motor and doing this operation?

 

[jorgek]

I would use a silicone based grease. It tolerates temp changes extremely well and lasts forever. Thats what I used on my Stab 90.

 

[primestar31]

Happy New Year!!!!

I recently got a used Stab HH-120 motor that is at least 10 years old (according to the previous owner) and I would like to remove the old grease from the gears and replaced with a fresh one. Since Stab is out of business and cannot be contacted anymore, what type of grease is recommended for this motor? Any tip for opening the motor and doing this operation?

This is the best stuff, I've used it for years: Amazon product ASIN B07DM992CZ
View: https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10005-30-Tacky-Grease/dp/B07DM992CZ/

 

[Bassplayer 1964]

This is the best stuff, I've used it for years: Amazon product ASIN B07DM992CZ
View: https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10005-30-Tacky-Grease/dp/B07DM992CZ/

Good stuff! I use the same here with no problems

 

[OswaldFTA]

This is the best stuff, I've used it for years: Amazon product ASIN B07DM992CZ
View: https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10005-30-Tacky-Grease/dp/B07DM992CZ/

Thanks for your recommendation.

 

[OswaldFTA]

I would use a silicone based grease. It tolerates temp changes extremely well and lasts forever. Thats what I used on my Stab 90.

Thanks for your recommendation.

 

[arlo]

Oh yeah. Good stuff. Their clear low temp grease is awesome too. You can get both at NAPA and most any parts store.

 

[a33]

I recently got a used Stab HH-120 motor that is at least 10 years old (according to the previous owner) and I would like to remove the old grease from the gears and replaced with a fresh one.

My STAB HH100 is at least as old, and I've never freshly greased it.
Is there a specific reason that you want to re-grease it? Or do you just like fresh grease, before setting the motor up for the next 15 (or so) years?

Greetz,
A33

 

[iBoston]

Is there a way to fix the back/forth play i have on my STAB 120? I have so much back forth play on it, often times i have to go past a satellite and back to it from the other side of the ARC to lock it in.

 

[Cham]

Re-greasing is so it works in cold climates. I re-did mine more than 10 years ago after I purchased it. The factory lube turns to concrete at -20C.
Also the top bearing can come loose. I have tightened mine a few times. You have to dis-assemble the unit to tighten the nut. Using a bit of lock-tight might keep it from slipping, but I think the bearing wears a bit causing the play.
Mine did quit working, top seal leaked and caused moisture to build up inside ruining the circuit board and likely the motor. It had a hard life turning the dish in the harsh environment up here. High winds broke one of the ears that mount it to the bracket many years ago. Had it welded back on.. After that happened I used only up to 1m dishes, the 1.2m was just too big for this motor in the conditions it was used.

 

[a33]

Is there a way to fix the back/forth play i have on my STAB 120?

From my archives:

Speling op de draai-as van de Stab100

www.sat4all.com

See the big nut in the picture.

When the lash is not in the tube, I had copied a post by Sjaak(k) at sat4all, which has been deleted:

... , de moer houd alleen de as en het lager vast, en de spanveerveer houd die as onder spanning. Deze spanveer dient er alleen voor om de as tegenspannning geven als hij links of rechtsom draait. Als je goed kijk zie je de rotor nu in de 0 positie staan. Draai je hem links of rechtsom, neent hij de veer mee dmv de uiteinden van het bronzen tandwiel. De echte speling haal je eruit als je 2 hardstalen ringen aan de 2 einden van de wormwielas legt

This latter fix would be not quite so easy?

( An SG2100 has a screw, with which to adjust backlash. Alas not the STABs...)

Greetz,
A33

 

[a33]

Re-greasing is so it works in cold climates. I re-did mine more than 10 years ago after I purchased it. The factory lube turns to concrete at -20C.

Ah! Good reason!

Thanks,
A33.

 

[OswaldFTA]

My STAB HH100 is at least as old, and I've never freshly greased it.
Is there a specific reason that you want to re-grease it? Or do you just like fresh grease, before setting the motor up for the next 15 (or so) years?

Greetz,
A33

Any grease or oil (mineral and synthetic base oil) begins to degrade after is manufactured, even if it is inside its sealed original container and stored per manufacturer recommendations (temperature and humidity). Once the grease or oil is applied to the components (actual application) it degrades even faster due to the changes in temperature and humidity, contamination with dust, particles released from the mating components and the pressure applied on it during the working conditions (load and speed). That the grease or oil is present doesn't mean that they are indeed lubricating (effectively separating the surfaces in contact). Actually, all applications needs to be re-lubricated after a certain period of time that is calculated taking in account all those mentioned variables and others not mentioned here. Taking all this in consideration, I think that due to the motor's gears are not re-lubricated constantly as it should be (there is no physically way to do it from the exterior), I would recommend that at least every three years, the old grease should be completely removed and a new and fresh grease be applied to all the gears. Neither Stab nor any other motor manufacturer will tell you anything about this, first because if you open the unit you will loose the warranty, second because there is a risk that you damage the motor during the maintenance process and third because if you do that preventive maintenance the motor will last forever.

 

[a33]

OK, point taken.

For my car, they also recommend refreshing oil every year, or 15,000 km or so. I always do it +10%, as I think this is overly precautious.
I did lubricate my hoover motor recently though, as the sound became harsh. It might be over 20 years old, though.
It's always the question which maintenance to do preventive, and which only when the need arises (but you might be slightly too late). And to keep listening, to the sound of the moving parts, I think.

According to your standards, it is a miracle that my motor still functions...?
But maybe that is because I live in a rather mild climate, and use my motor not very often.

Still, when the motor is dismounted anyway, it's a good moment to regrease!

Greetz,
A33

 

[OswaldFTA]

OK, point taken.

For my car, they also recommend refreshing oil every year, or 15,000 km or so. I always do it +10%, as I think this is overly precautious.
I did lubricate my hoover motor recently though, as the sound became harsh. It might be over 20 years old, though.
It's always the question which maintenance to do preventive, and which only when the need arises (but you might be slightly too late). And to keep listening, to the sound of the moving parts, I think.

According to your standards, it is a miracle that my motor still functions...?
But maybe that is because I live in a rather mild climate, and use my motor not very often.

Still, when the motor is dismounted anyway, it's a good moment to regrease!

Greetz,
A33

Your motor still works, that is a reality, what we don't know is the current status of the gears (teeth involute profile) compared with the original one. In that equation, a very important factor is the % of use of the motor. If the use is very low, then the life of the gears is extended. But again, regarding the grease, even if the motor is not used so often, it degrades and then there is no separation between gear mating surfaces, so wear occurs.

 

[arlo]

Hey. It's almost a no-brainer. If you're willing and able and have the skills. And want to prolong the life and save some money in the process. Go for it. Modern synthetics are superior to dynosaur lubes. The oil doesn't leave the base and just a clump of wax is left behind. Silicone grease may be okay for nylon, delrin, etc. gears. Unless specifically stated it's for lubrication purposes. An engineered synthetic lube will surpass.
Two schools of thought. Run 'er till she pukes. Or perform maintenance and make it last a long time. Especialy in this day of disposable stuff.

 

[jorgek]

Synthetic lubes are superior. That why all cars today use syn oil. I use syn oil in the lawn mower as the snow thrower.

 

[OswaldFTA]

Synthetic lubes are superior. That why all cars today use syn oil. I use syn oil in the lawn mower as the snow thrower.

For the records. After comparing several available greases and calculating the required oil kinematic viscosity for the size and speed of the gears inside the STAB HH-120 motor I purchased this grease:

Lubriplate® LTR-2

The most important characteristics:

Base - Lithium complex

Additives - Contains an Advanced, High Performance, Zinc Free Anti-Wear Additive Package.

High oil kinematic viscosity at 40C - 460 cSt (Good metal to metal separation)

High penetration (NLGI) - 2 (Low flowability, soo high tendency to keep attached to the gears)

Corrosion (ASTM D-130) - 3 hours 1a (No problem with bronze gears)

Motion industries sells 13.5 oz. Cartridge