Reed Sensor

[tvropro]

I need some info... I have a 11 month old Motech QARL 3624 actuator from Sadoun. I'm now loosing counts with it. I looked at the motor the other day and see no way to adjust or mess with the reed switch. Has anybody tried adjusting these on a Motech? I hate like heck to have to rip this 11 month old arm off and put my rebuilt Saginaw on there in the middle of winter. Cant get hold of Sadoun to see if they could help.

Also has anyone ever used any reed switch (glass tube) to replace or modify one to count better?

Any help will be appreciated.

 

[tvropro]

Wow no answers

Wow I can't believe anyone out there never tried adjusting the reed switch or replaced it with an after market (non OEM) replacement that was more robust maintaining counts than some cheap Taiwanese OEM garbage.

Where are all the Satguys inventor techies at?

 

[1ADAM12]

Old Thread

Wow I can't believe anyone out there never tried adjusting the reed switch or replaced it with an after market (non OEM) replacement that was more robust maintaining counts than some cheap Taiwanese OEM garbage.

Where are all the Satguys inventor techies at?

Seems like there was a thread about this a couple of months ago. I remember posting www.Mouser.com as a source for reed switch.

On my motor, the reed switch is potted in what looks like tar. You would just about destroy the switch removing it and in my case it turned out to me a bad connection of the sensor wires.

 

[tvropro]

Thanks for the feedback. My switch can't be seen with the motor cover off. I have to pull the whole assembly out. I haven't crossed that bridge yet, figured maybe someone already did this before. I need to get some info on the physical and electrical specs for the switch if Im going to substitute. This isn't the time of year to be playing R&D by me I did check the connections at the wire terminals they are all tight.

 

[1captain]

Also has anyone ever used any reed switch (glass tube) to replace or modify one to count better?

Any help will be appreciated.

The glass reed switches that I have used have been in older super jacks, an old channel master motors, some of the 1st ones where solder on a board, latter they made them a plug in on that board, an if you have that type check to make sure you have it plug in all the way in flat, may even want to bend the 2 little wires (from the reed its self) over in their connector where they plug in.

most of the time when a motor is lousing counts, it all because of reed spacing, have not worked with those actuators from Sadoun, but their should be a way to adjust the spacing, either by moving the magnet wheel in or out, or by the reed switch some way.

the best way that I have found to adjust a reed switch is with a scope, by watching the pulses on the screen, an keep moving the magnet wheel or the reed switch its self, till all pulses become equal. I have even found on some of my home built magnet wheels that some of the magnets where not as strong as others when the wheel was spinning an reading the pulses on the scope, simple changing 1 or 2 of the magnets fixed it.

also don't know if you're magnet wheel is a composite or has individual magnets, if it does check for the individual magnets for a push pull in their placement in their housing.

 

[tvropro]

The glass reed switches that I have used have been in older super jacks, an old channel master motors, some of the 1st ones where solder on a board, latter they made them a plug in on that board, an if you have that type check to make sure you have it plug in all the way in flat, may even want to bend the 2 little wires (from the reed its self) over in their connector where they plug in.

most of the time when a motor is lousing counts, it all because of reed spacing, have not worked with those actuators from Sadoun, but their should be a way to adjust the spacing, either by moving the magnet wheel in or out, or by the reed switch some way.

the best way that I have found to adjust a reed switch is with a scope, by watching the pulses on the screen, an keep moving the magnet wheel or the reed switch its self, till all pulses become equal. I have even found on some of my home built magnet wheels that some of the magnets where not as strong as others when the wheel was spinning an reading the pulses on the scope, simple changing 1 or 2 of the magnets fixed it.

also don't know if you're magnet wheel is a composite or has individual magnets, if it does check for the individual magnets for a push pull in their placement in their housing.

This thing was counting fine up to about 2 weeks ago. Now it looses counts when returning west I have adjusted 50-75 counts maximum and as little as 6-10, at one time or another to keep touching up. The magnet wheel is one piece, looks like a piece of ferrite. I don't know if I can position the reed any closer since its hidden behind a piece of plastic I believe in the assembly. Im thinking the cold has something to do with it sticking, but when I installed it last January it was as cold or colder and worked fine. What ticks me off is it shouldn't have any issues yet if it was built right. My Saginaw went 19.5 years till the brushes wore down to nothing and still counted fine. All I could possibly do is see if the reed switch is floating on terminals and possibly try to bend the leads to get it closer. Other than that there would be no adjustments. Replacing it with the same crap in there is stupid since its evidently garbage. If I go replacement route it has to be a quality switch that wont fall apart in 10-11 months of service.

If it was summer I would be out there now messing with it. Being winter it keeps one from wanting to do too much as long as the motor still moves. I hate to screw it up all together than have to swap arms between snow storms like last year. The Saginaw has been fixed and ready to go if worse comes to worse. Im hoping to find a simple fix first if all possible.

 

[B.J.]

Wow I can't believe anyone out there never tried adjusting the reed switch or replaced it with an after market (non OEM) replacement that was more robust maintaining counts than some cheap Taiwanese OEM garbage.

Where are all the Satguys inventor techies at?

Your question was specific to that brand sold by Sadoun, not whether people have replaced or adjusted reed switches. I've replaced reed switches on my H-H, and I have adjusted them on other brands of actuators, some of which allowed you to move them closer or further from the magnet. But you said that on your brand it couldn't be moved, so I'd only expect you to get responses from people who own that brand, and I wouldn't expect it to be a very high percentage of the C band people out there.
I think those reed switches often tend to start sticking, and adjustment doesn't help. Better to just replace it. Actually though, most of the times that I've thought that I had a reed switch problem, it wasn't the switch, but instead it was either the wiring or or the receiver (ie noisey power supply giving extra pulses), or actually not even related to pulses, but a situation of free play in the gears making the apparent counts that you find a sat be different depending on which direction you are coming from.
I was convinced that my reed switch was bad on my BUD, so I replaced it, and it didn't help. I checked the wiring, but that seemed OK. Then I switched from my old Drake 1824 to an even older Monty 50/55, and the loss of counts improved significantly, although I still have the problem of different counts in different directions.

 

[tvropro]

The arm is tight (no slop). The wiring is good. That leaves the receiver and reed switch. I would have to lean towards the outside electronics since it started up as it got colder (sticky reed) The thing is if it was a good quality reed switch it shouldn't be affected by the cold temps. Case in point... my old Thompson Saginaw worked in the coldest of cold and hottest of hot.

I know this Moteck is a far cry from what I had on there but still should be able to do the job well according to it's specs. I'm disappointed in it, being a cheap piece of junk after all that don't seem to hold up. I bought it to resolve my issue in the middle of winter last year and thought that since it was the heavy duty version Sadoun sells it should fair well. Well now it's showing it's durability. It has very little use on it compared to my old arm and it's flaking out. The only way to make this thing usable is to find out the specs on the OEM reed and buy something better that will last. Im sure the OEM is a 2 cent switch.

The thing is how do I find out its spec's. Unless Sadoun can get them I don't see much hope since the company is in Taiwan. It may end up just being a $155.00 boat anchor. Which won't instill me much faith in some of the products Sadoun carries. It's to bad all the good U.S. bud companies are now few and far between and were forced to deal with this offshore junk.

 

[Sadoun]

TVPRO

What is the model number you have on the linear actuator? I haven't heard of this problem from other users, so you may have a defective unit.

 

[tvropro]

TVPRO

What is the model number you have on the linear actuator? I haven't heard of this problem from other users, so you may have a defective unit.

Hi Sadoun,

It's a QARL-3624

QARL-3624 HV-24 24" Stroke 36V Motech Heavy Duty Actuators

It's loosing counts, I checked everything else. The arm and bolts are tight. The reed sensor has to be the culprit. I think that the cold temps did the thing in. Like in my other posts in this thread I said my Saginaw never had counting problems in 19.5 years. I don't know much about Moteck except what I read on the net. There webpage said they were good, I don't know now.

What warranty do the arms carry and what about the reed sensor?

 

[Sadoun]

Could you please read the label on the actuator arm and let me know what is written on it? We have a newer version of the motor from another manufacturer, I just want to make sure which one you have.

The motor is covered by a 1 year warranty by us and will be happy to fix it or replace it for you if you send it back to us.

 

[tvropro]

Could you please read the label on the actuator arm and let me know what is written on it? We have a newer version of the motor from another manufacturer, I just want to make sure which one you have.

The motor is covered by a 1 year warranty by us and will be happy to fix it or replace it for you if you send it back to us.

Sent you a PM

 

[tvropro]

Update

The temperatures have been above freezing for 2 days and now is in the teens. It acts up more as it gets colder. So I would have to say the reed switch is sticking open or closed. I spoke with Sadoun on the phone today and he is going to contact the factory to see what they suggest. He's suppose to get back with me in a few days. Hopefully he will have some good news. Until then I guess I have to keep correcting, at least the 4DTV has adjust all satellites option so that helps a bit.

Funny that you always have problems in the dead of winter. When it's not fit for man or beast outside I miss my Saginaw I wish I could swap it in 5 minutes I would have done that.

I feel like back in the humble beginnings, when you had to manually move the dish by eye to each bird.

 

[tvropro]

Update Cold Cold Weather

:rant::rant:

Problem definitely is cold related. Left dish on W5 for 7 hours. Started out at 12 degrees outside now it's 9 degrees. Went to move the dish to G1 to get guide updates and shut the system off. Lost almost 40 counts. It definitely is in the actuator. Since the motor seems to move freely, it all points at the reed switch. A freaken 20 cent Taiwanese item is causing me all this grief. Goes to show you how cheap they build these things these days. Less than a year and it fails. I guess the moral of the story is everything made today is plastic cheap garbage. You guys looking for replacement actuators your better off to get an old decent shape one (from the buds heydays) scrounging and put the effort into it to replace brushes or parts, lube it etc and use that then get a cheap new one. I don't know how the new Thompson Saginaw's that cost $400 compare to my rebuilt 1989 vintage spare so I can't comment on that.

It looks like I will have to put my old Thompson back. Unless Sadoun can come up with a good updated replacement reed switch from Moteck's factory that proves me wrong. I don't know if I can even trust a replacement right now. Brings up another question When I spoke to Sadoun he told me they have switched from the Moteck motor to the Powertech. Why?? Were there issues with Motecks motors?? Maybe Sadoun can clear that up for us.

Hell, all I want to do is watch tv on cold nights and I can't even enjoy that

Just an after thought... the reed switch may be freezing stuck and takes multiple hits of the magnetic field to break it free. But why? From what I read they are suppose to be in a nitrogen gas that can handle very cold and hot temps. (well at least the quality ones) Could this thing have a leak in it where moisture has gotten in there? No quality control!

BTW sorry for my ranting it gets so frustrating sometimes. A few good points and idea's are brought up though that may help someone going through a similar problem in the future. So it was worth posting.

 

[wrdavis]

I seem to be having the same problem with the same actuator from Sadoun and mine is only a couple months old. And not nearly as cold here as you report. The counts just keep dropping in value. For example on Nov 2, when I installed the actuator, AMC 1 was at a count of 145, by Nov 24 it was at 120, and by Dec 6 was at 86. These are typical of all the satellites I have stored in the Gbox 3000.

I'm about to head south for the winter, so not inclined to pursue the issue now. But will on my return in spring.

Could you please read the label on the actuator arm and let me know what is written on it? We have a newer version of the motor from another manufacturer, I just want to make sure which one you have.

The motor is covered by a 1 year warranty by us and will be happy to fix it or replace it for you if you send it back to us.

One issue about the actuator I have is the placement of this label. It is on the lead screw cover and I think it would be better on the motor section. The first time I moved the arm through the saddle clamp to check how much movement was required to swing the dish through the arc, the clamp practically tore the label to shreds.

 

[tvropro]

I seem to be having the same problem with the same actuator from Sadoun and mine is only a couple months old. And not nearly as cold here as you report. The counts just keep dropping in value. For example on Nov 2, when I installed the actuator, AMC 1 was at a count of 145, by Nov 24 it was at 120, and by Dec 6 was at 86. These are typical of all the satellites I have stored in the Gbox 3000.

Mine is cold related, I have the QARL (heavy duty) version of the jack. It will probably take quite a while for Sadoun to get some answers from Moteck and I can't deal with this problem daily till whatever happens. Im planning on swapping my actuator with my rebuilt Thompson Saginaw tomorrow afternoon if the weather works with me. It's going to just get colder in January and it will make it even harder to work on then. Once I get the Moteck off Im going to take the reed sensor out and examine it. I may even request the updated motor if its better than the original if that will resolve the issue. When fixed I will put here as a spare in case I have something else come up.

I hooked up my Sag inside to an old receiver and ran a bunch of tests on it today and it hit perfect every time with the same number.

Attached are my Motek sticker and the Saginaw reed sensor (nothing like the Motek).

 

[tvropro]

Update

Today I put my Saginaw back on. I looked at the Moteck reed switch what a joke tiny little black plastic unit with no adjustment. On top of that magnet wheel shaft has eccentric play in it, what a piece of junk. I'll have to see what Sadoun can do for me since it is under warranty. Just for the heck of it went pricing Saginaws like I have if you click on the link you better sit down first:

Thomson Saginaw Satellite Antenna Actuators

I payed $200 for mine back in 89.

I don't expect the Moteck to be of that caliber but it should have been built better than it is

Curious of what Sadoun finds out from the factory.

I will do some investigating on the Moteck itself and post picture when I get a chance.

Feels good to be up and running again :clap@party

 

[1captain]

well that is "Great" that you're back up an counting to the right satellite location again.
being born a raised here in Fla have not had to deal with winter or snow, would not even consider getting up on a roof or ladder with snow or ice at this time of the year, I don't think it would be too safe.
an its great to have back up parts on hand.:up

 

[tvropro]

well that is "Great" that you're back up an counting to the right satellite location again.
being born a raised here in Fla have not had to deal with winter or snow, would not even consider getting up on a roof or ladder with snow or ice at this time of the year, I don't think it would be too safe.
an its great to have back up parts on hand.:up

I have done crazy things when called for in ice and snow it's just part of the game. Yesterday besides being cold wasn't too bad I rocked the swapout in about 3 hours. Then another 2 to reprogram. The snow is starting to fall now and will be going on till Sunday so I made the right move.

The next order of business is to dissect the Moteck so to speak (figure out its game) and See where my warranty will get me with Sadoun. I may talk with my friend who rebuilt my TS motor and see if we could design a more robust and reliable counting system for the Moteck arm. Heck maybe the factory could buy our design and offer it as an option.

 

[B.J.]

....

I hooked up my Sag inside to an old receiver and ran a bunch of tests on it today and it hit perfect every time with the same number.

Attached are my Motek sticker and the Saginaw reed sensor (nothing like the Motek).

I'm curious, does that Saginaw have any hardware limit switches? I can't see any in the picture. Most of the actuators I've owned (most are of the Houston Tracker variety, although some rebranded) have had a long screw that as the motor turns, a threaded thing moves down the screw and will eventually contact a cutoff switch to avoid damage to the actuator in the event that it goes too far. I don't see any limit switches in the picture, so I'm just curious how or if it's done with the Saginaw?